Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Speedometer Needle Stuck And Not Counting Miles Correctly?
Jul 30, 2014
So my girlfriend got a 2002 Jetta Wagon 2.0 automatic (PRND321, no tiptronic). She noted when she was driving fast on the driveway highway one day her speedo stopped climbing and would wiggle around 60mph and not go any further even if she was going 80+.
I would have thought first that the speed sensor would be messed up. Went to the junkyard and pulled 2 speed sensors for cheaper then 1/4 of new. Put the newer cleaner part on and the same exact issues. Locks up and wont climb past ~65mph and the needle wiggles. I am guessing its not the sensor. Question is what could cause it? Could it be the actual internal gear in that meshes with the transmission? Ill try replacing, i have extra i think. But could this be a cluster or a computer issue? And the odometer is also off. When it gets stuck at the slow speed, the mileage won't count at the full speed. She drove to a friends at a known 80 miles away and it only said its was low 70-something on the gauge when she got there. So there is a discrepancy of mileage count too.
I am going to head to the junkyard soon and thinking of pulling a cheap cluster to try it out, but I also heard you might need a VCDS for the immobilizer in the cluster. And the mileage is stored on the cluster or not? What should I pursue next?
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I am having a slight issue with my cluster. When I turn the key on or start the car, the speedo needle goes crazy for about a minute then stops above 0mph (points at 5mph when im not moving). While that's happening, the other needles don't work until the speedo normalizes. It also does this when i turn the car off. What this could be? I heard about the VSS can cause speedo issues but what about the rest? I also heard the mk4's can have cluster failures. it's a 99' mk4 vr6 jetta 5spd.
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Noticed this at speeds below 40 MPH. My speedometer needle will wobble a small amount, but over 40 MPH its is dead steady. I have noticed this a few times.
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Was on my way to my girlfriend's house and decided to do a few pulls. Noticed afterwards my rpm gauge was stuck at 6k rpms and wouldn't go any lower. The car was running fine and I was in 6th gear just cruising at 55mph. Did another pull and after that it was stuck at 8k and if I downshifted the needle would max out at the 6 o'clock position. When I arrived I turned my car off to see if it would reset itself and it got stuck at 7k rpm.
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The needle has always stuck dead on 190f when it gets up to temp. About a week ago I took the center grill of to paint, I put it back on and the check engine light came on ... code p2433 secondary air pump problem. I figured I had just disturbed something etc. Now the coolant gauge is going up to around 240f during normal driving, the fan stays on for about a minute when I turn off the ignition.
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I had my transmission fluid changed because it was leaking from the pan. I did the job myself but called VW to confirm how much fluid I needed. They told me the wrong amount but we realized that after we did the job.. they did the repair for a huge discount and I only paid $200 bucks for the work for them to "fix" what they messed up. Volkswagen did it and I got the car serviced at the end of April basically. now its the first week of July and under 90 days since the car was service and now it is shifting hard between 2nd and 3rd gear or 35 miles to 45 miles per hour. The car isn't throwing a transmission code I have a vag com and there is no code coming up on that.
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I purchased a 2001 Jetta and it ran alright for a few days then all these problems started arising. The engine would not idle correctly and then a week later my EPC light started coming on. After all of that I have replaced the Throttle body ( Bosch) the MAF ( after market) and gas pedal ( after market). It ran fine for a day and then same issues. I had a mechanic relearn the throttle which had the Engine light go away for about a day. Now all the issues have came back. Here are the main problems.
1. Randomly lose throttle ( up hill, down hill, highway does not matter)
2. I randomly get stuck in park and cannot shift at all.
This is extremely troublesome since every time I lose throttle i have to put the car in park, shut her off and turn her back on to be able to drive. I keep getting the Throttle and MAF codes. I also checked on the recalled parts and they have already been replaced. I have read many reasons as to what would cause this but even the mechanic doesn't even know and I cant pay for him to check the electric. Also when driving if it is raining my car will not start or when it does it chugs. I was running through a puddle and after the water splashed the car basically would no longer run.
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our 2001 Nissan Quest with 201,000 miles has recently started having some strange issues. The speedometer will suddenly drop to zero, and after a few seconds, come back up and work correctly. A couple of times, this was associated with the engine "chugging" and topping out at about 50 mph. If I stop, it will resume and run normally. I would love for this car to last me 2 more years.
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I have a 2004 volkswagen jetta, and it has started overheating. At first my problem was the thermostat. After that was changed out the fans stopped working correctly. It kept blowing fuses in s180 slot.
I read somewhere in another post that this is due to the fact the resistor in the low speed fan go bad, and for your car's radiator fan to go from zero to high speed, causes the fuse to blow. Also I read that when the fans start up it draws the most current, and then after it's running the current is considerably less.
This is my solution, I went to napa, and got a circuit breaker for a car, and Yes, to my surprise they make them. I picked up several a 10amp, 15 amp, 20 amp, and a 30 amp. First, I tried the 30 amp circuit breaker and it didn't trip the circuit, but when I put a regular fuse in the slot, it did trip the circuit, when I did the fan test at the thermostat switch. Next, I put the 25 amp in there and neither did it trip the circuit. When I put the 10 amp in the s180 slot, it tripped the circuit, just as the regular 30 amp fuses do. So that confirmed that the amps that were being drawn from the fans were not enough to trip a 30 amp circuit breaker.
What I did next, is I took a 20 amp circuit breaker and put that in the s180 slot. Then I hooked up vag com on my laptop to check and see how it performed with the 20 amp circuit, and these are the results.
Car Temperature in celsius
at 111 degrees the gauge was moving past the halfway point
at 115 degrees the gauge was one notch past halfway going towards the red zone
at 120 degrees the gauge was two notches past halfway going towards the red zone
at 122 degrees the fans kicked on high speed for about 30 seconds, and knocked the
temperature down to 105 degrees.
In conclusion, if the high speed on the fans work, you don't have to take those out and go and buy an expensive new fan set. Just stick a 20 amp circuit breaker in the slot, and keep using the fans that you have.
Part no: 782-3154................ Name: Circuit Breaker, 20 Amp; Blade
Note: I take NO responsibility for any damage you do to your vehicle from any information you obtained from this post. Do this at your own risk! I am not a mechanical expert but this is my solution to the overheating problems.
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I took my son's 2008 Honda Civic Coupe in for an oil change at a local third party shop today. While there, I was persuaded to let the mechanics carry out a fuel injection service. On driving home I noticed that the digital speedometer no longer read correctly. It now reads about 20 mph over. This is particularly noticeable as the vehicle slows down. I saw that the mechanics were having trouble connecting into the fuel system. They were working in an area behind the air filter, and just in front of the instrument cluster. I believe that they may have disturbed a cable or something in that area, which has caused the problem.
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My 2007 gs350 is acting up lately, I was on freeway doing around 70mph but speed needle only pointed at 40mph on the gauge. Could it be speed sensor?
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I bought a Priuc C because of the MPG. My wife has a Lexus and she is able to see how many miles she has left before needing refuel. On my Prius C I put 2 gallons and the cruise range shows 1 mile. Why is the computer not calculating correctly the miles. I tried it several time and get the same results,.
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Our '91's speedometer needle wobbles +/- 5mph at lower speeds, but evens out and becomes steady at higher speeds.
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When the weather is rainy or just very humid, the speedometer needle in my 2000 Accent jumps all over the place. According to the service dept. at my local dealership it is most likely the speed sensor causing the problem.
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My needle is, lets say, vibrating..when I am driving more than 50 kph my speedometer needle is vibrating ,it is dancing up and down.
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I was driving my Oldsmobile the other day and the speedometer needle seemed to "bounce" up and down and then stop. I removed the cable and it is intact I can spin it and the other end spins. I jacked the rear end up (both wheels off the ground and started it up and put it in HI. I did not see the output shaft turning. Which leads me to ask a whole bunch of questions. Can I get a new output shaft (aftermarket) or do I need to find another Hydramatic and cannibalize it. I also wonder if the fact that two years ago my speedometer cable came loose at the transmission and the road wore the end off so I replaced the core with an aftermarket one'
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In my current speedometer the speed needle doesn't work i did everything and changed all sensors and checked all related issues and all is fine turned out the issue was with the speed gauge it self. So i bought my self a used speedometer.
Now my question is, how to dismantle the speedometer cause I want to take out the speed gauge from my old one a replace it with the new one i know its much easy to change the whole thing but I don't want to play with the mileage I have on my car.
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Every now and then, when I start my car, the speedometer needle pegs completely to the right and then settles down and acts normally. Why does this happen and what does it indicate? The car is a 1995 Chrysler Concorde.
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I have a 98 Civic with 218,000 miles. It's my around town car (the bigger more expensive car sits in the garage most of the time). The speedometer whacked out about a month ago. The needle will sit and quiver on 20 mph when I start it, when I'm going 60, and at stop lights. Suddenly, with no apparent reason the needle will jump to to the correct speed, work correctly and then as suddenly drop back to 20. I replaced the speed sensor (an easy job) and that didn't fix it. What else might be going on? Wiring harness? What would I do with the wiring? I do a lot of low level maintenance myself; oil, plugs, brakes, struts, but I've never done wiring work.
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So i noticed recently. The speedometer needle would jitters/shake/doesn't move smoothly when driving around 110km/h to 120 km/h. Approximately 75 mph. I'm in 6th gear when this happens. I haven't tried down shifting to 4th or 5th to see what happens, but maybe i should try that. This happens while trying to accelerate. The car has barely any power at that point. If i stay at a steady speed, the needle doesn't jitter.
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I have a 95 Honda Accord V6, the D4 light is flashing and the speedometer needle does not work. When in stop and go traffic, the needle bounces around and makes the car stall and downshift and rev up. I replaced the speed sensor with no change.
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