Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Small Leak On Automatic Trans After Fluid And Filter Change?
Jul 5, 2014
I had a small leak on the side cover of my trans so I decided to replace the gasket and take the opportunity to drop the pan and change the fluid and filter. However now I seem to have a pretty significant leak from the trans pan itself. The side cover seems ok.
The filter and gasket kit I purchased was a Wix brand. I don't have a torque wrench, so I just tightened to Germain torque spec (gutentight). However now I worry that maybe it's not the right spec, either too tight or too loose. The kit came with new spacers for the gasket and I cleaned the pan, especially around the lip where it interfaces with the rubber.
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I was very surprised after the fact that my VW golf has no stick for checking the transmission fluid under the hood. How to add more fluid into the automatic transmission ?
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2003 echo automatic, 168,000 kms doing a routine maintenance, getting tranny fluid changed, is there a filter to change on these cars or is fluid enough.
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As I was changing my oil last week I noticed that there was a thick, dark green fluid near my front left shock and on the automatic transmission filter. The fluid appeared to be sprayed on the underbody of the car. I am unable to notice any change in automatic shifting or in the front left shock. The photo shows the filter (?transmission filter) on the top, the shock is at the bottom right. This is slightly behind the left front tire. This was not anywhere else under the car and did not appear to be road grime.
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The VW Owners Manual for my 2009 VW TDI Jetta indicates that the automatic transmission fluid and filter should be changed every 40,000 miles. However my independent mechanic's "after market" maintenance manuals say that the DSG should not be touched for the life of the car. I am perplexed
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How often should I change my transmission fluid and filter for my 2011 Golf 2.5? Should I do it every 18k miles-ish?
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I walked out to my car and there was a big puddle of tran fluid under driver side front. I think it might be from the drain plug.
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Got a CEL tonight while driving. Originally I was driving and the light came on saying that my gas cap was loose. I corrected the problem when I got home and tightened again. The light stayed on however. I ran a scan with the OBDII and it gave me a code for EVAP- Very Small Leak .
I was reading around and some people suggested the MAF. Which would make sense because I recently had all of that stuff off and gave the engine a deep cleaning while it was exposed. I just don't see how the MAF could relate to the code my car is pushing?
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Had a P2181 come up twice now... both on startup on a cool morning. Came on again this weekend. Monday morning I noticed a small coolant leak under the front of the car directly in line with the passenger headlight, but it only leaks if I park the car with the front down a slope. I parked uphill on Monday night and no leak in the morning, but I backed in facing downhill on Tuesday and had a small leak when I checked late last night.
So, last night I broke out the UV/black light -- G12 seems to fluoresce yellow'ish. I couldn't see much, so it is a small leak. There is some wetness on the bottom passenger side of the rad that's dripping over the back side of the front bumper/lip. No wetness around any other hoses, thermostat housing, temp sensor, turbo lines. But that's all from the top view. No time yet this week to get it up on stands to pull the bumper/splash shields for a closer look either.
I am little concerned tho as there's some wetness around the valve cover and when I pulled the oil cap my eyes suggested a bit of fluorescence under the cap and inside the valve cover. I'm a little worried oil and coolant may be meeting up somewhere... And to think... I was just in the process of getting geared up to do brakes and plugs before getting a modest tune (stage 1).
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so my girls car is throwing an evap code (P0442) small leak detected. I bought a new oem gas cap and replaced the purge valve solenoid under the hood. that didn't work, CEL still comes on about 100mi after clearing the code.
I have checked the rubber hoses that were attached to the purge valve solenoid when i replaced it and they are fresh, no dry rot or cracks that i can see. The hose on one side goes to a hard line that runs under the car to the back, the hose on the other side of the solenoid runs under the intake to the throttle body. That hose was fine as well. Connections were tight and i even put better clamps on the hose ends that attach to the solenoid. So I have ruled out that portion of the system (under the hood).
I also removed the rear seat to access the fuel pump. All those connections seem nice and tight, I don't smell any strong gas fumes indicating a leak so i don't think the fuel pump gasket is the problem either. Finally, i checked out the hard lines running under the car front to back and I see no apparent or obvious damage. I assume my next step is to pull off the rear passenger wheel well liner and asses the charcoal canister and the LDP connections, correct??
The last thing I will mention is, Idid notice the 2 fuel lines that attach to the fuel regulator are in pretty rough shape, however not leaking any fuel. Are both of these lines actual liquid fuel lines? I am thinking one of them is a vapor return which may be part of the EVAP system. If it's dry-rotted and leaking vapors could that be the culprit??
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So I recently bought my 03 VW Golf TDI, and have it in the shop this morning to get the wheel alignment done, balance my winters, fuel/cabin filter changed, as well as an oil change. I am now wondering whether or not to give them a call to change the transmission oil as well...
But.. the vehicle has alot of km's on it (358K) and I keep reading that it would do more harm then good? Is this true? Doesn't make any sense to me, but the car could shift more smoothly I think if I do it, and I have yet to see any tran fluid change in the previous owners records in quite some time..
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My son was driving his 2001 jetty vr6 2.8 he said he heard a pop and then coolant was pouring out underneath. Radiator and hoses look fine reservoir too.it pours out as fast as you put it in. When underneath it looks like it's coming from an area to the right of the oil filter towards the belt side but not ask the way over by the belts more like the middle of the engine. I can't see anything from above just dripping from below. I am hoping not a head. Oil look good no coolant in it and doesn't smoke.???
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Okay, so a few weeks ago, my tire blew out on the freeway. Of course my spare wasn't in there and when I got one I couldn't get the lugs loosened. My 4way was too big on all sides. It was late, I am a single mother of two young kids so I had no choice but to drive slowly to get it off the freeway. The next morning I came back fully prepared, got my car in to get a new tire. I have been driving with ONE code for my CEL, but at the shop (where I use to work) I used the scanner and it threw 5 codes.
P0300 Random misfire
P0442 Small EVAP leak detected (this one was already there)
P0420 Catalyst system below threshold bank 1
P0301 Misfire cyl 1
P0303 Misfire cyl 3
My beautiful love is an 02 Jetta 2.0 4 Cyl. Now, since 4 of these codes popped up AFTER my first blowout (I turn 30 next month, knock on wood)
Did driving my car at 5 mph about a mile and a half (everywhere up until the gas station was NO PARKING) do something to my car? All of a sudden, any in town driving ESP IDLING makes my check engine light blink and my car has no power I just have to pull over wherever I am. I checked the car out myself on the side of the road and my cat was glowing. After this I do not drive my car.
So, what should I do. I did a tune up. Should I replace the 02 sensors then the cat?
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Automatic transmission fluid change. I can't find any info in the manual. What does Hyundai recommend? What mileage should I change fluid ??
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I have a really small leak coming from the lower end of my power steering hose, it's super small, I was wondering if I could fix this by wiping it down really well and dry, and then layering it with plasti-dip. I think the leak is small/slow enough for me to get in a few good layers. Would this be an okay fix, or would the plasti-dip separate fast?
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2008 f250 auto
is the trans filter change possible?
i didnt see this in the tech folder and no videos for a 2008
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My owner's manual states that I should change my transmission fluid and filter at 100,000 miles for a vehicle that experiences "normal" driving. My question is this- should I follow the owners manual on this or change out the fluid and filter at 75,000 miles? I just turned 70,000 miles and the fluid is not showing any signs of burnt material it and it still looks and "smells" healthy. Oh, I would consider myself a "normal" driver as well. The vehicle is a 2004 Chevy Silverado 4x4 with the 5.3 L engine.
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I recentily bought a 05 prius with 153k on the speedo I asked the dealer about if fluid should be changed out, they said they have never done one, what should I do and if I do it how?
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What is the interval when trans fluid gets changed? I need to take a trip....round trip will be about 4600 miles I probably have less than 1500 on the current fluid now.. and before that had changed it 2 other times within 1000 about 8 mo. apart just to rotate the fluid. I am planning to do it as soon as i get back.
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I just changed my corolla trans fluid for the first time. the owners manual said a drain and fill take 3 quarts of T IV trans fluid. I purchased 3qts of T IV but more than 3 qts came out so I am about 8 to 12 oz. short. All of the toyota dealers are closed to day so I can not buy any until tomorrow. can I drive it this way for one day without hurting anything or should I put some of the old trans fluid back in?
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Just changed transmission fluid and filter at 175,000 on my 2000 V-10 and now I have a whinnying sound and shifting that does not feel sure footed. It worked fine before the change. Fluid is synthetic and filter is Ford Motorcraft. Did it just go?
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