Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Small Coolant Leaks On GLI?
Nov 26, 2014
Bought a MkIV for the fiancee 2 weeks ago (04.5 GLI 1.8T Automatic).. Great driving car, needs some minor love (really dirty, burnt out lights, etc)
After the first week, the coolant light came on
Had some G12 handy, topped it off (like 8-10 oz)
All good
2 days later, it came on again, added about the same amount
4 days later, it came on again, added the same amount
1 day later, it came on again, added the same amount
I am adding 50/50 mix, but haven't seen a puddle anywhere, Nothing looks wet, but then again its hard to see around the plastic cover ...
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My 2004 1.8T GTI is having a weird issue. It's had 3 coolant leaks in the past 3 months. Every time I get one leak fixed it goes leak free for a couple weeks, but then a new leak pops up in a new place.
First leak was a cracked coolant bottle. Second was a flange near the bottle on passenger side. The newest leak is on the driver side. Car hasn't ever overheated.
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Had a P2181 come up twice now... both on startup on a cool morning. Came on again this weekend. Monday morning I noticed a small coolant leak under the front of the car directly in line with the passenger headlight, but it only leaks if I park the car with the front down a slope. I parked uphill on Monday night and no leak in the morning, but I backed in facing downhill on Tuesday and had a small leak when I checked late last night.
So, last night I broke out the UV/black light -- G12 seems to fluoresce yellow'ish. I couldn't see much, so it is a small leak. There is some wetness on the bottom passenger side of the rad that's dripping over the back side of the front bumper/lip. No wetness around any other hoses, thermostat housing, temp sensor, turbo lines. But that's all from the top view. No time yet this week to get it up on stands to pull the bumper/splash shields for a closer look either.
I am little concerned tho as there's some wetness around the valve cover and when I pulled the oil cap my eyes suggested a bit of fluorescence under the cap and inside the valve cover. I'm a little worried oil and coolant may be meeting up somewhere... And to think... I was just in the process of getting geared up to do brakes and plugs before getting a modest tune (stage 1).
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I've had my R32 for a year, in that time the car has used a quart of coolant in 9K miles. Is this normal? No visible leaks.
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I noticed last week when I leave the house in the morning my car was leaving oil striped down my road. Jacked car up Saturday AFTER RUNNING TO STORE found a little oil on bottom of my car but not nowhere near what I was thinking there would be. Cleaned motor fired up found no leaks at all . However this morning after car had sat 20hrs or so I looked under car before I cranked her up clean.
Got it cranked her up and oil was streaming from the oil cooler. Not on the block side but towards the front of car side of cooler. It did this for a few seconds then stopped. I am gonna order new front and rear orings for oil cooler. I am just stumped why it only happens at a cold start and for a few seconds not consistently.
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I've noticed the past few days that my car has been leaking a small amount of coolant. I've only had the car a month, and it has 1300 miles on it. I'm in Texas so it's been about 100 degrees every day.
There's been a few times that I've turned off the car and the fan has stayed on for a few minutes, so it must be getting pretty hot.
I'm assuming this little bit of coolant is just coming from the overflow, but I've never had a new car do this so I'm concerned that there's a problem. I checked the fill level, and it's a hair above the LOW line, so it's within range.
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Replaced my coil packs/sparks, and just got around to changing my N75 valve today. The rough idle issue is gone but now when I go WOT it boosts but goes from 15psi-12-13-12-14-12...etc. I've checked and there are no boost leaks. I do have a CEL saying I need a new bank 1 sensor 1 Oxygen sensor. If it is that, why did this problem arise as soon as I changed the N75 valve and wasn't present earlier?
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So I have an oil leak I can't figure out. 2001 jetta vr6 5spd. The bottom of the car is covered with oil. It appears to be leaking above the transmission. It will consistently drip at idle. Oil sits on top of transmission and then Leaks down over the starter. It doesn't have any coolant leaks. Is there anything anything in that area that could leak oil that bad?
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Okay so recently I was driving my 2000 Jetta and the coolant temp light came flashing on, when I went to check the coolant I was surprised to discover that it was like a mud brown color, almost looks like peanut butter. From everything I have read this can be from a few things, either rust build up that is gunking everything up and oil getting into the coolant somehow. I'm pretty sure its rust build up but I was wondering what everyone thinks about this, I was also not using G12 coolant which I'm told now is the premier brand for VW's.
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I switched to red ELC back in September , bought a billet thermostat housing , and did the "dual alternator " upper hose. now i seem to be getting small leaks around my hose connections and thermostat housing. I don't have any pics yet but I'll get some. It looks like it barley leaked. Then dried up
I re tightened everything again but no difference. My coolant level hasn't dropped or Anything that's why I haven't been too concerned. Here's when it first started happening
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My parents 2000 Explorer is having issues...It started with check engine light...came back to Oxygen sensors...Replaced all 4....light came back...still a couple of same codes...P1151 and P0153...smoked the intake with Evap Leak Detector...have several small vacuum leaks...little at EGR (No EGR codes)...little at TPS (No TPS Codes)...Little at throttle shafts...and some coming from what looks like underneath throttle body....none of these are as much of a concern as the next thing....NOW the trans will not shift out of 1st...unless you manually shift it from Drive to 2nd...then no other gears...Reverse works fine.....
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Got a CEL tonight while driving. Originally I was driving and the light came on saying that my gas cap was loose. I corrected the problem when I got home and tightened again. The light stayed on however. I ran a scan with the OBDII and it gave me a code for EVAP- Very Small Leak .
I was reading around and some people suggested the MAF. Which would make sense because I recently had all of that stuff off and gave the engine a deep cleaning while it was exposed. I just don't see how the MAF could relate to the code my car is pushing?
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I took my relatively well maintained '98 Camry to Texaco Xpress Lube and they changed my oil and air filter. I then embarked on a 400mile trip to Miami. The next morning when I went to start the car, I fogged the entire neighborhood with a thick low-lying white vapor/smoke. It was ridiculous. So, I opened the hood and noticed my coolant reservoir was nearly empty and my oil dipstick was bone dry. Thinking this was awfully strange, I went to inspect the air filter and noticed that they installed a filter that was short by about 1.5" in one dimension and I could see sand, leaves, and twigs in the bottom of the air box. The shop basically put a square filter in a rectangular air box. After some preliminary research, I've concluded that my engine is now completely ruined because of this. From what I gather, the sand in the airbox enterred the combustion chamber and proceeded to grind the internal components to smithereens. Is this a reasonable conclusion considering my engine has never had these problems before. Also, how would I even start to get some rectification?
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I purchased my first truck 2 weeks ago private sale a 2001 Explorer Sport Trac 4v4 4.0L. I noticed it had small leaks coming from transmission and front differential gaskets (the diff is silicone) but the oil levels remain fine. Within days I heard a loud hum coming from the engine for 10 seconds then immediately after i was slowing down for a speed bump and my truck tried to stall and since that point it was riding very rough at low speed/idle and sometimes giving it gas seemed to just kill it. Next day a check engine light comes on and I get it checked It was Bank 1 running lean and B1155 (Output shaft speed signal) which concerned me from what I found it is located by the transmission oil filter which has the leak.
A few more days later I broke down on the side of the road, the alternator had died and killed the battery, I replaced the alternator and belt, replaced the 6 spark plugs, 3 of which i removed way to easily with my hands and all 6 had an incorrect gap. Initially the car was still rough but now with the new plugs it is drivable but still a little weird on startup and idle and a little bit of the shakes around 60-65mph and seems to be over actively shifting soon as i let off the gas even a little bit. Today I had the check engine light assessed again, now Bank 1 and Bank 2 are lean, still have the B1155 as well as a new C1676 (Battery pack voltage out of range) which light research said it could be ABS module or it could be a false code from being jumped days prior and that code wont clear on its own.
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I've always had a small creaking or groan when i turn the wheel after I lowered my GLI a year ago, but i feel like it's getting louder...
What could be causing it? cause im doing my year end "maintenance" (if its worn/almost broke, perfect excuse to buy upgrades) ...
My control arms are brand new with r32 bushings as are my 034strut mounts/bearings. I checked my steering fluid level and its good.
Pic for reference of current height, might raise it .5 or so, my new job has quite the driveway entrance.
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so my girls car is throwing an evap code (P0442) small leak detected. I bought a new oem gas cap and replaced the purge valve solenoid under the hood. that didn't work, CEL still comes on about 100mi after clearing the code.
I have checked the rubber hoses that were attached to the purge valve solenoid when i replaced it and they are fresh, no dry rot or cracks that i can see. The hose on one side goes to a hard line that runs under the car to the back, the hose on the other side of the solenoid runs under the intake to the throttle body. That hose was fine as well. Connections were tight and i even put better clamps on the hose ends that attach to the solenoid. So I have ruled out that portion of the system (under the hood).
I also removed the rear seat to access the fuel pump. All those connections seem nice and tight, I don't smell any strong gas fumes indicating a leak so i don't think the fuel pump gasket is the problem either. Finally, i checked out the hard lines running under the car front to back and I see no apparent or obvious damage. I assume my next step is to pull off the rear passenger wheel well liner and asses the charcoal canister and the LDP connections, correct??
The last thing I will mention is, Idid notice the 2 fuel lines that attach to the fuel regulator are in pretty rough shape, however not leaking any fuel. Are both of these lines actual liquid fuel lines? I am thinking one of them is a vapor return which may be part of the EVAP system. If it's dry-rotted and leaking vapors could that be the culprit??
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I'm not sure if my car is an R32 but it is a mkIV GTI V6. There is a small radiator in front of the front passenger wheel and air is ducted from the front air scoops into the radiator. What is it cooling? I searched for a transmission radiator but nothing came up. I can only speculate that it is to cool engine oil or transmission oil. Is that correct and if so what is it called?
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Recently my 2013 Hyundai Elantra was subject to a hit and run. It is a new car with less than 2000 miles on it since October 2013. There was 9K in damage, most of which pertained to the back driver's side and the axle. Bumper, quarter panel, trunk floor, axle, wheel bearings, and two rims had to be replaced. Plus incidentals like tail lights and such. Because this is a new car, I received all new parts as a replacement. When the car was returned to me, the back seat kept getting wet in the rain.
After taking back to the shop twice, they finally diagnosed a small hole in the seal in a seam of the quarter panel area---something must have happened when putting everything back together. The door is fine and there is no moon / sun roof on the vehicle. I do not completely understand what this means. I know some basics about cars, but not to this level of detail. I searched by topic area and couldn't find anything that was related to this type of reason for water in the car.
Have the following questions: How a small hole in a quarter panel area would cause water to get into the back seat (on seat and floor)? What would be good things to watch out for post-fix? It is still a bit damp and rainy here, so I can't open the windows for things to dry out. Would have been nice for the collision center to dry the seats. How can I make sure mold/mildew won't develop?
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I had a small leak on the side cover of my trans so I decided to replace the gasket and take the opportunity to drop the pan and change the fluid and filter. However now I seem to have a pretty significant leak from the trans pan itself. The side cover seems ok.
The filter and gasket kit I purchased was a Wix brand. I don't have a torque wrench, so I just tightened to Germain torque spec (gutentight). However now I worry that maybe it's not the right spec, either too tight or too loose. The kit came with new spacers for the gasket and I cleaned the pan, especially around the lip where it interfaces with the rubber.
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Okay, so a few weeks ago, my tire blew out on the freeway. Of course my spare wasn't in there and when I got one I couldn't get the lugs loosened. My 4way was too big on all sides. It was late, I am a single mother of two young kids so I had no choice but to drive slowly to get it off the freeway. The next morning I came back fully prepared, got my car in to get a new tire. I have been driving with ONE code for my CEL, but at the shop (where I use to work) I used the scanner and it threw 5 codes.
P0300 Random misfire
P0442 Small EVAP leak detected (this one was already there)
P0420 Catalyst system below threshold bank 1
P0301 Misfire cyl 1
P0303 Misfire cyl 3
My beautiful love is an 02 Jetta 2.0 4 Cyl. Now, since 4 of these codes popped up AFTER my first blowout (I turn 30 next month, knock on wood)
Did driving my car at 5 mph about a mile and a half (everywhere up until the gas station was NO PARKING) do something to my car? All of a sudden, any in town driving ESP IDLING makes my check engine light blink and my car has no power I just have to pull over wherever I am. I checked the car out myself on the side of the road and my cat was glowing. After this I do not drive my car.
So, what should I do. I did a tune up. Should I replace the 02 sensors then the cat?
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I have a really small leak coming from the lower end of my power steering hose, it's super small, I was wondering if I could fix this by wiping it down really well and dry, and then layering it with plasti-dip. I think the leak is small/slow enough for me to get in a few good layers. Would this be an okay fix, or would the plasti-dip separate fast?
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