Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Shuts Off When Approaching Stop
Jan 17, 2015
Symptoms:
1. As I'm coming to a stop the rpms drop to about 4-500 and the battery light comes on.
2. But instead of shutting off the car revs itself to about 1.5k and does this about 2 or 3 times. (bouncing between 500 and 1.5k rpms.)
3. Car then either settles at a normal idle, or it turns off.
This happens when I'm coming to a stop in neutral or 1st with the clutch pressed down. If I come to a stop in 2nd gear with the clutch down it either does nothing, or just 1 and 2 but doesn't shut off.
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weird thing happens in my 2.0 manual jetta. every 1500ish miles, when coming to a stop, it feels like my car is about to stall but its not in gear.The trip milage will reset, radio will turn off, dash will dim, but no CEL. Since then key fob doesnt work (replaced fob batteries), and my DRL are off. still cold starts no problem (figure its not the battery), trying to figure out if i can get closer to what needs a fix before tearing into something unrelated.
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We have a 2004 Jetta with about 92,000 miles on it. We bought it used in October 2012 after 3 months needed rebuilt transmission, and many other problems but the most recent has been costly with no mechanic being able to repair. These are some of the problems that we are faced with. While in drive the vehicle feels like its gonna stall but starts to beep the clock resets and car continues to drive with no problems or the car won't start at all.
You open the car door no keys are in the ignition but the car is clicking and clock and miles are fading in and out, light on door panel blinking, you push flashers and it makes a strange noise but flashers are not blinking. You put key in and try to start the car and nothing the blinking and clicking stop and it does nothing turn key back in off position clicking and blinking start again.
Car just stalls when approaching stop signs. No mechanic has been able to fix problem or duplicate issues. I do have video of the interior clicking and flashing and noises it makes.
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Recently i have been noticing a vibration that wasn't there a while back. I installed an Autotech insert about 5k ago, didn't notice it right away, but it's pretty pronounced now. Also have koni's, APR stg II, B&B TBE and APR intake if that's relevant...
The vibration is especially noticeable when i come to a slow stop, either in gear, clutch in, or in neutral. It's a relatively loud thumping that can be felt through the brake pedal, and through the car when foot not on the brake. Seems to get increase as I get closer to stopping, then lightens up a bit when stopped. If i take it off-idle while sitting still by a minimal amount, it completely goes away.
Also, from a gradual start, there is a brief but loud squeak / groan as the clutch engages. If i am a little more aggressive, it doesn't happen.
I do not beat on this car at all, don't launch it hard, or anything like that. Was thinking about taking the Autotech insert out to see if that changes anything, but my back isn't really feeling up to the task this weekend.
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My DSG is great until I drive it for a while. Yesterday, for example, I left work and drove twenty miles, mostly freeway. Then I stopped at an all natural drive thru (sonic) and when I let off the break, from a stop, it lunged and sounded like it was going to die. When I pressed the accelerator to move even more the tranny was loud and jerky still. I parked it for a few hours and when I jumped into it, she was fine once again. So it appears that it is only after driving or warming up good that it acts this way. I have an appointment Tuesday to get it looked at, but I doubt they will take the time to drive it that long and say to me, "everything is fine".
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I experience a jump or jerk when rolling towards e.g. a stop sign or traffic light, or even in stop-and-go traffic and the transmission shifts down into first gear. The jerk only happens when I stop slowly. If I break fairly hard, this problem does not appear. It even jumps/jerks when I roll down my driveway, breaking slightly. In some cases, I fear that I'll leave the gearbox on the street.
This, of course, does not happen every time, but frequently enough that I asked my VW dealer to take a look at the problem. They changed my spark plugs and said that this may have been the reason
Can not quite make this connection, and of course on my way home the same jump/jerks happen, as on my way to work this morning. I want to take my car back to the dealer, but hopefully with some more insight, since they appear to be clueless.
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I have a 2008 Pruis that acts like it has a plugged heater core but I wonder if there is more to it. I thought it had air in the system so I drew the cooling system down with vacuum and was able to get another half quart of coolant in it with a radkit plus vacuum coolant filling tool but it did not change anything. At idle there is no heat until you go up a hill at highway speeds when the heat starts to flow. As soon as the engine slows down or shuts off, there is no heat again. I was going to backflush the heater core but after I noticed all the valves and pumps in the cooling system, I stopped because I wondered if there could be a problem with any of those mechanical parts in the heating system. I don't think that there is still air in the system because the engine temperature is good and the coolant level is full when you remove the radiator cap. With the engine idling, all the hoses in the front of the engine are hot including to the heater storage tank. If you touch the aluminum pipes going into and out of the heater core, one is hot and the other is cold. Should my next step be to back flush the heater core?
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95 manual trans Subaru Legacy (lack of power), Everyday at least once my car will cut off when I come to a stop. Also, at least once a day it seems like there is no gas pressure. What I mean is I will just be driving along and no gas is getting to where it needs to be. I can pump the gas pedal and the gas engages again. There seems to be no rhyme or reason. It doesn't matter what the lay of the land is. I will say it has occured an increased number of times over the past 2 very warm days. It could be it's just getting worse.
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Bought my first Diesel few weeks ago and I am trying to figure out if something is normal. Its a 2004 F350 and the truck seems to jerk a little bit when I come to a stop and when I hit on the gas. Feels like a tug every time into gear.
I would like to say its first to second but it cant be because its basically only happens when I press on the gas and start rolling, unless I am going into second immediately thats not it. I know less than dick about this truck?
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Took my 2008 Corolla in for its 60,000 mile checkup. It was recommended that the front brake pads be changed as they were getting low. It is now one week later. Now the front brakes creak when coming to a full stop. I have noticed that the creaking seems to happen more on the way back home from work, and seems less pronounced in the morning.
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T-reg is at the dealer and told it won't be back for at least a week. I noticed water in the rear cargo area under air compressor after rain. Also, rear wiper makes a terrible noise when turned on. Was told that replacement parts are not local and would take at least a week.
Noticed vibration from the steering column area when coming to a stop at a traffic light? Be sure to check your cargo areas!!!
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The vehicle: 2002 Chevy Silverado 1500 w/ Z71.
The problem: Steerage issue. No problem exhibited while driving. However, at stop or very slow there is a loss of power steering but only when turning the wheels right. There is also an audible sound when turning to the right. Kind of a whooshing or air expulsion?
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After driving the vehicle on the highway (30+ minutes at 65+ mph), exiting highway on an exit ramp and coming to a stop (at stop sign or traffic light), the engine will sometimes stall and shut off. Immediately thereafter, vehicle can be restarted and driven. There are no other symptoms, abnormal sounds, vibrations, etc.
I thought problem might be caused by vapor lock. However, Hyundai dealer service center checked fuel pump, fuel lines and vacuum hoses, etc. but can not duplicate, identify or repair problem.
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In the Car Talk column on 1/3/2016, it sounds like Lynnette's 1991 Honda Civic wagon was experiencing very similar symptoms to my wife's 2001 Honda Odyssey (189,000 mi) a few months ago. Rough idle, engine almost dies sometimes at stops, groans during acceleration. Additionally, accelerating between 40-60 mph our Honda would feel like it was "loading up," running rich or in the wrong gear climbing hills. I replaced the idle air control valve, which fixed the rough idle but not the other symptoms. Turned out I needed to reset (power cycle) the ECM and go through a curb idle/rev warm-up procedure so it would relearn the throttle position sensor's operating range after replacing the IAC valve. I disconnected the battery, removed and reinserted the hazard fuse, then reconnected the battery. Then from a cold start held the throttle at 3000 rpm until the engine warmed up to normal or the electric fans kicked on. Since then it's back to smooth, strong acceleration we expect from the Honda we love.
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It's an oldie, 1984, but so far still kicking. 6 cyl 2.8, carb. I took a little couple hundred mile trip a few weeks ago. Rolled back into town no problems.
A few days later I took a ride and the ranger would stall when approaching a stop sign or light. I would hold the pedal down a little to keep it running but it sounded like it wanted to die if I didn't feather the pedal to rev a bit.
I drove a few days later, as I was going down the neighborhood road(25 mph), it acted like it wanted to just die. I mashed the pedal and it had no effect. It didn't stall and eventually I could rev the engine to continue.
It continues to do the same, then will all of a sudden take off like there was never a problem. If/when it does stall again, it can be hard to start until it does start and off I go again like there was never a problem. Other times, it will idle.
Another note: Sometimes when I go to start the engine it will stutter, intermittently turnover. It has done the same thing while actually driving, kind of a jerking deal.
Fuel filter, fuel pump, electrical? I'm going to first check/replace the fuel filter tomorrow.
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I own a 2002 Acura TL- car has 100K, i am the original owner- always maintained etc.. I am having problems with the transmission- car was in accident back in 2005, and tranny was replaced..Anyways, when i back car out and then hit it in drive, car goes to neutral. also when i drive, approach stop sign, and then accelerate, car goes to netural- dealer says need new tranny- cost is 2400 plus tax.... so i was thinking of doing that but now they say there is a leak with the oil pump- i said i dont see oil leaking they say its hitting the pan, could go in a month or in a year- cost 1200 to fix.. then he said the brake lines will need to be changed evenually- again 1000 or more.....ball joints- they quoated me 625...
So they say they will give me 500 bucks for a trade in- this car is in really good conditiion except for the supposed problems they found..If they car wouldnt have these problems i would get the tranny fixed- but i dont know what to do- ball joints dont have to be replaced- they hvae a little play.. the oil leak? I mean i have a 2000 accord that the dealer says is leaking- my private mechanic says all accords leak.
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Throwing the following codes:
p2401- evap emission system leak detection pump control circuit low
p0261- cyl 1 injector circuit low
p0267- cyl 3 "
p0270- cyl 4 "
p0264- cyl 2 "
p0445- evap emission system purge control valve circuit shorted
p2257- secondary air injection system control A circuit low
p0010- A camshaft position actuator/open bank 1
p0414- secondary air injection system switching valve A circuit shorted
Obviously an electrical issue, no way all these codes spring up all at once for separate reasons. Any fuses, relays, harnesses or grounds that relate to all or most of these problems.
Car has trouble at start up, takes a little longer to turn over. If I don't stay on the gas it will eventually cut off. Once I am driving its fine. Its only once the E brake is up, it will cut off right after the brake light comes on.
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I have a 2.0 Avh jetta. Around January I started getting intermittent cel coming up. I pulled the code back then and it said it was misfiring cylinders. It'd give me some rough idling when it was on. Since then the light would come on during wet weather. About a week ago the light came on and stayed on. I haven't been able to pull a code recently though to see if it is the same as before (cant get vcds to connect to my car for some reason).
My car has randomly died with a battery light (electronics stay on, engine shuts off) and I know this is pretty dangerous but it hasn't happened on a main road. I replaced the coilpack yesterday and planned to change the spark plugs as well but the spark plugs turned out to be more than i was equipped for (i do have them). Since I replaced the coilpack the car no longer rough idles but it did shut off with the battery light coming on. I'm really trying to avoid taking it in somewhere but I'm starting to think that is my only option left.
Should also add that the car starts up just fine initially but after a random battery light shut off it is a hard start and sometimes takes a few tries...
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I first heard this on Car Talk on National Public Radio (sundays at 10, on the west coast). I heard the question but not the answer. Wife favored slow and hubby fast.
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I have narrowed down my starting issue to a faulty relay(409). When I pulled the relay and cleaned the contacts and reinstalled the pump primed and the car started. Car will idle for about a 1/2 hour and out of the blue it shuts off. If I try to restart, 9 times out of 10 it does not start. If i tap the relay, it starts right up. If the car is running and I tap on the relay the car stutters and if I tap it again it shuts off.
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When I parked this car 2 months ago it ran fine. Went to start it up and it starts and shuts down. I do not think its the security issue. Both keys do the same thing.
Battery is new recently. There are no MIL lights working on the dash except the battery light. The actual dash lights will not come on. Doors will unlock but not lock. My VAG tester will not communicate with the ECU.
I have checked all of the fuses multiple times. I can hear the fuel pump prime up when the key is turned on. It appears that there is an electrical issue. I took the connections off of the ecu, waited a bit, check for cleanliness and reinstalled also.
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