Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Shut Off While Braked At A Red Light
Nov 2, 2014
Today my car for one of the many times has shut off while i was braked at a red light. Car will be running fine and then i see the cluster shut off, car bog down and then the ignition is killed. I then have to put the car in park and turn over the car. Happened about a hand full of times over the past year. Why it might be happening? Possibly fuel line replacement?
In addition, the car also is having an electrical issue somewhere that makes the car shut off the ecu and restart it. From that, the cluster resets the time , the trip counter resets to zero with the radio shutting off completely, and wiping the AM/FM presets. I believe this could be from a short somewhere in the alpine stereo system the car has and the possible LED floor lights that are tapped into the 12V Cigarette lighter in the dash.
04' Golf Gl 2.0L, Auto, 87xxx miles.
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I have a 03 jetta 1.8t the asr light comes on and stays on and i cant shut it off if i turn the car off it goes off and then like 10 min later it comes on. Why its happening
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Was driving just a few hundred feet up the road to local mini mart. On the way home after pulling out of the shop, my battery light flickered once and twice before staying on. I circled around the block to see if it would go away, but it was still on when I parked in my driveway. I noticed a ticking noise in the engine bay, but decided to turn it off.
About 10 minutes later, I turned the car back on. Battery light still on, noise still evident in the bay. I popped the hood and it's coming by the serpentine belt. That seemed to be running fine over there and couldn't see anything that looked out of the ordinary. I went in the car to rev up the engine a bit and turn on my lights, and that's when the symptoms got weirder. My RPMs jumped to about 1,000 and stayed there (even when I let on the gas a bit); my blowers would work (but not the screen showing the temp); CD player turned off; and I got a cluster full of lights on my dash. The car would idol rough when turning lights on and off.
It eventually shut off, and now there is no crank or nothing. All lights still work, alarm works, but no turn over or clicking. I'm going to try and get it jumped when able to, but I'm not sure what the problem could be. I can't find the exact paperwork, but I had the alternator replaced at around 85,000 miles.
Car Specs:
2003 GTI VR6 24V
110,000 miles
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Well last night on my way home after work (2:30 AM) I was on the turnpike and puff my car shut down and anti theft immobilizer light started blinking and the car won't start got it tow....
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So I haven't driven my 2003 Jetta in about a week and a half. Today when I started it it struggled to start, and then at a stop light while my foot was on the brake it was jumping/stuttering. it continued when I moved at 5 mph, but did not happen while driving at higher speeds (15 mph) and went away when j shifted from drive to park. I got on the highway and drove for 15 minutes with no issues, and now the problem is gone. Is this a sign of a failing part?
The spark plugs and wires were replaced 6 months ago. I had them changed because the car has always had a small intermittent rough idle that would sometimes happen when stopped and at low parking lot speeds, but it's never been so noticeable. it was really lunging this time
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I bought a 2003 Vw Gti 1.8t ... What to do or look for when something goes wrong . About a two months after driving it, it won't idle and it shuts off while in Neutral . I've done my research and i believe he didn't install the BOV in right, only bc it is not recirculates the air. Make sense? Is there ANYTHING i can do so it will run better and idle?
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Car shut off while driving. Saw it wasn't getting fuel. Replaced fuel pump. Got fuel. It will crank. Still won't start. Replaced crankshaft position sensor. Still no luck. No battery. No luck. Timing belt is perfectly fine. I checked the ecm relay and it seems to be working. It won't get a spark. It will try to crank but will not get a spark in any of the cylinders..
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So I go to start up the old girl the other day and she turned right over, ran for about 2 seconds, and shut down. I tried to start it again with the same result. When I turn the ignition forward, before starting it, this image with a car and a key below it starts flashing on the gauge and the odometer starts flashing "service". I tried using a different key with the same results, what this might be?
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So I was driving down the road today and my car just shut off. No turning back at all. It is still trying to start. Battery is fine, terminals are fine, it acts like it wants to start but won't start. It's been running fine for a long time now. I think it may be the fuel pump. I'm going to take the fuel line out when I get home and see if it's getting fuel.
Door doesn't make the buzzing sound when you open the door. The car is also on air ride...
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I have a 2004 Jetta, 2.0L. I was pulling out of stop light and the car sputtered for a second and shut off, and now will not start. I thought I heard a clicking noise coming from under the dash or the engine bay right before it shut off. The engine turns over and cranks fine, I replaced the fuel pump relay and checked the fuse(28) and both are good, I can hear the fuel pump run when the key is in the on position. I swapped out the coil pack and checked the injector fuse(32), both are also good. I pulled the line off of the end of the fuel rail and it's getting gas to the rail. The immobilizer light is not on but the EPC light is lit when I turn the key on, I can't remember if it was lit or not before starting when the car is running normal.
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My 2005 vw GTI doesn't like to start in the cold. It will start and I can rev it just for a second before it turns off again. My ABS and ESP traction control lights are on and they only turn on when I have this problem. Normally when it does this I can let it sit for a couple of hours and it will start as if nothing was even wrong. I took it to the dealer to do a full diagnostic on it and the only thing they could find was a faulty instrument cluster and I don't think that is what is causing my car not to start.
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So I am having this weird electrical issue when connecting VCDS. Every time VCDS begins to scan, the door seems to receive an unlock command and then the car will stall and shut off. I have tried doing different things but no luck. Possibly a bad ground somewhere? Also, when the car stalls out, VCDS then picks up a few codes. I can clear the codes just fine but every time this happens, the codes return. Here are the VCDS codes:
Address 01: Engine
Labels: 06A-906-018-AEG.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 06A 906 018 J
Component and/or Version: MOTRONIC M5.9.2 AT V06
Software Coding: 00001
Work Shop Code: WSC 00066
VCID: 2959A211D3043F762A-4AE4
8 Faults Found:
17633 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 1 (N30)
P1225 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
17634 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 2 (N31)
P1226 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
17635 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 3 (N32)
P1227 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
17636 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 4 (N33)
P1228 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
17859 - Secondary Air Injection System
P1451 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
17829 - Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve (N112)
P1421 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
17833 - EVAP Purge Valve (N80)
P1425 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
17880 - EVAP Leak Detection Pump
P1472 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
It seems that only the engine controller is being affected. Assuming that the car doors run under the same controller?
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I believe this fuse has to do with radio and convenience options? 2004 mk4 GLI 1.8t. A few weeks back, the fused popped. I replaced it, and drove fine for a few more weeks. Shut off randomly, so I put a fuse in, try to start, it cranks like usual, but doesnt start. Tried with several different 20a fuses. It pops all of them the second I crank the car. Obviously there is a short somewhere. Where? Or know where fuse 37 goes?
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I went out to my car this morning and the fans were both running full speed. That's before I even got to it then they carried on doing so when I started the car and still ran after I shut it off. I have stopped them by pulling the 30A battery top fuse for them but what has caused it and how I can fix it? Preferably not too expensively as I am moving house next month typically.
The car is a 2003 1.8t GTI with climatronics ....
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I got an 03 vw gti. I was driving to work and car just shut off and hasn't start ever since. Check my fuses and relays there all good. I thought it would be my fuel pump so took the old one back to auto parts and got a new one. That didn't work. I also just replace my crank sensor cause my car won't crank at all, but it back fires after the first attempt to start it and i did some research and ppl had that same problem and said it was the crank sensor but that didn't work either.
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So I bought a 2004 Jetta with the 2.0 engine yesterday. I got the car pretty cheap and was told that the issue with the A/C was because it was low on freon. I've never owned a Volkswagen before, but I assume A/C units are all similar. So I go to put in some freon into the low end of unit. I get about half of a 12 oz can or so in and I hear a loud Psst or shooting of the propellant. I look down and it looks like the the side of the compressor shot the oil filter with the coolant. I'm not sure if I sprung a leak of if it was just a valve that releases when there is too much pressure. I've only driven it for about 10-20 mins since and I can still occasionally hear the Psst sound. It is 96 degrees in my area if that makes a difference or not?
Some other information, I noticed that the compressor kicks on, but only for like a second or two and then it shuts off for about 15 seconds or so and then repeats itself. What could be wrong?
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If I have the switch set for the lights to turn on when I open the doors, they don't turn off when the doors are shut they just stay on all of the time. Also, sometimes they don't work at all and sometimes they do. My 12v outlet doesn't work either but I am guessing it's the fuse..
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So last night, I went to close my car door and it just "Bounced" when I went to shut it. It did this a few times and then I got it closed. So I left it until this morning and now it won't close at all and just bounces. I believe the latch is broken. Any quick fixes to this?
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My MK4 golf has the rear passenger door shut, cannot be opened from inside or out. The outside handle has no tension, just floppy.
I managed to take the card off, even though I cannot open the door.
So my issue is if I keep dismantling til I get to the door lock, is there any simple way to open the door ? I've seen lots where people can change the lock if the door opens but can it be opened if the door is closed or do I somehow have to smash the lock ?
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Are there any settings within the Vag-com to automatically unlock the doors when you shut the car off? They automatically lock, so surely you can make them unlock?
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