When going to adjust my DG shifter since it wouldn't go into first I noticed that my L-shaped lever (02J-301-358C) on the tranny was more out then usually and could be pulled straight out with no resistance. I am guessing the piece at the end is also broken and will need to be pulled out, but how will I put the transmission into home mode after?
View 8 RepliesSo I just got 42dd shifter bushings and im having some issues!
Installation was no problem but once you complete the install you are supposed to re-adjust the linkage. First you have to lock the shifter in place, both in the cabin and in the engine bay (as shown in this Diesel Geek video: [URL] .... )
The only trouble I'm having is that i cannot locate the locking pin as shown in this integrated engineering picture: [URL] .....
I have a 1992 1500K extended cab 4WD with the 5.7L V8 engine (147,000 miles). It has been driving well since I bought it last winter. 2 days ago I took it on a longer road trip and it was doing great. Slowed down to take a 90 degree turn and the transmission suddenly hit "limp home" mode. It felt like it wasn't up-shifting out of 2nd , high RPMs while driving no more than 30mph on flat road. I have the proper amount of fluid and it is still red/pink and does not smell burnt.
Someone suggested that I check the transmission fuse but in looking through the fuse box I can't tell which is the tranny fuse. Also, I can only find one fuse box on my truck. Is there a 2nd?I feel like my next step is to take it to a transmission shop but I want to rule out whatever I can at home. I have zero experience with transmission work and don't want to get scammed into a rebuild if I don't need one. The transmission was working fine up until 2 days ago. No slipping, no hard shifting, and no noise...
I recently changed the bushings and installed SS kit. I don't know if this was the case before, but now while in any gear, i can still move it approx half inch to the right and half inch to the left.
I checked everything and all screws are tight. Could it be that the shifter cables need adjustment?
I have an 01 Jetta, 2.0L, 5 Speed manual transmission.
The issue seems to be that the shifter wont shift the transmission "all the way" into 1st, 3rd, and 5th gear. When I shift into the gears that are forward on the shifter, it will go into gear, but then the shifter (in the car) moves back toward neutral a little. I can drive in 1st no problem, but in 3rd and 5th some weird stuff happens...
While driving, when I shift from second to third I have to keep my hand on the shifter otherwise I get kicked out of gear. Also, when I drive on the highway, I periodically get kicked out of 5th gear if I don't keep my hand on the shifter (usually, when I let off the gas).
Anyway, being that I've fixed many problems on many cars by searching forums and google, I spent the last few days trying to figure out the problem by looking through the forums, but I have yet to find a solution. I tried adjusting the shift linkage using the method described in the dieselgeek video on youtube [URL] ...., but it didn't work. I'm pretty certain it's not the shifter bushings because i have almost no play in the shifter in neutral.
I had someone cycle through the gears while I watched under the hood, and its clear that the cable that controls the forward and back part of the shifting is not pulling back far enough on the counterweight on the transmission. (When shifting into 1st, 3rd, and 5th.) When the shifter puts the tranny into these gears I can still move the counterweight on the tranny further than the shifter will pull in in the same direction.I tried adjusting the linkage to compensate for this, but the cable is as far into the cable end as it will go...
Ok so I was putting a drill bit into the home slot under the shifter boot. I didn't realize it was so deep and the piece dropped all the way down the hole. Is this bad? If so, what can I do to get in there and get it?
View 5 RepliesMy Jetta mkiv transmission went into limp mode recently. Took it into shop. They checked it out and they replaced solenoids as well as the TCU. Car still goes into limp mode. It doesn't happen all the time but enough to piss me off. Any thoughts?? Car only has 140000 miles.
View 1 RepliesFor over 2 years, but much more frequently and lenghtier recently, my 2000 Chevy Prizm, with a used 07 Corolla engine with 75,000 mile on it now, has seemed like it wants to die but then will eventually kick in and you would never know anything had happened. Started out as a maybe 50 yard slowing down but is now up to about a quarter mile with some occasional noise like misfiring on the last two times it acted up. Have had it in to a couple of mechanics and no one can seem to determine what it is. Had a mass air flow sensor put in about a year ago and was told if that doesn't fix it I would need a catalytic converter (shows up in engine codes) but second mechanic told me my problems would not be the result of a bad catalytic converter. If that was it, the car would die not keep on going.
View 1 RepliesA few months ago, my '00 Sentra developed a rough idle but I ignored it because it wasn't too bad, until recently at least. It had been getting progressively worse so I went out and bought some CRC MAF cleaner, which solved the rough idle altogether for about a day. After doing some errands, I started the car but it was now stuck in limp home mode, not matter how much gas I gave it, she wouldn't top 20 MPH and 2.5k revs.
I bought a new MAF, and that made the problem worse: in any drive gears or reverse, when given any gas, the engine would stall and die but when in neutral, I can rev it as high as I want to. I reset the computer and cleaned the new sensor to no avail. After re-installing the old sensor (which was visibly broken, it was missing an entire wire assembly), it will run poorly but will now drive with some quirks, and I don't trust it further than around the block.
My question is: with the new sensor, do I need an ECU reprogram, did I receive a bad sensor, or is there a compound problem? (I've heard with similar issues: bad alternator, bad TPS, bad IAC module, dirty IAC or TPS, clogged fuel filter, bad fuel pump, dirty air filter, among others.)
I am one of the few that has ADC on my 2004 V10.
Occasionally, 3 times now. I press the ON button and the cruise control does not initialize properly. After a while it will say "Temporarily unavailable" . The problem is that then there is no power any more.
I stop on the hard shoulder of the motorway, engine off, engine on and all is reset, ADC works ok and full power is restored.
Truck: 2009 F-150 Lariat SCrew 5.4 4x4 with 6.5" bed
For the last few years, I've had this intermittent problem where the service engine light (wrench icon) will pop on and the truck will go into limp home mode. While it's in this mode, all of the indicators on the dash freak out. Low fuel warning will come on, temperature warning, low battery voltage, etc. Turning the truck off and back on (sometimes a couple times) is enough to get it back to normal, albeit with a check engine light that needs to be cleared. It's happened infrequent enough that I've just been dealing with it. I got the codes a couple years back, but there wasn't much information available on what the potential causes might be. The Checker Auto parts database suggested one might be related to a wheel speed sensor.
Well, this afternoon it happened again, and I was near an O'Reilly, so I took it in to pull the codes. There were 9 total in the system; 5 of which were unique:
B0025
B00D5
U0073
U0100
U0253
They didn't have any information on what was causing them. What could be causing this. I'm getting sick of having to clear the check engine light and worry about the truck falling into limp home mode when I'm at intersections.
I replaced some TYC OEM headlights on my car with stock OEM Hella headlights and cleaned up the lenses really nice.
Once installed, I went to adjust the headlights to find out that the passenger outer adjustment just spins.
This is the one in the photo:
I am not too sure if I can fix this. The little wheel doesn't seem like it can be removed and it has some back and forth play on it.
Need to successfully repaired headlight adjustment?
I put a new door lock actuator in my drivers door today. The key locks the door just fine but when I return it to center it unlocks the door. If I take the key out and just tap the key cylinder it unlocks again. Is there any adjustment I haven't found yet to the key cylinder or actuator?
View 1 RepliesOkay, my shifter rod got spun, and now it doesn't want to go into any gears. Just freely kinda swirls, and you can't push down. The guy working on the car wants to pull the shift box down and see what is going on. He thinks the shift cable or selector cable is broke.
View 5 RepliesThe issue with the car is that the tranny won't go into any gear. With clutch in or out. I had very little play left or right or up and down. Not sure what could be wrong. The car has 120k miles and no mods.
View 2 RepliesOut of nowhere the car wont go into 5th, so I need to check the cables adjustment and if that doesn't work go from there. This car as of now is nothing more than a daily driver, never driven hard. I bought it last June with 40k on it and as of today it sits at 68k. Happened Friday worked fine on the commute to work, but on the way home once I got on the highway I noticed it would not engage 5th. Does not grind, pop, or anything. It is like the shifter goes into 5th but the cable has been shortened to not engage. This may be the issue but reverse, and 1st-4th work great with no issues.
I also read about the narrow oiling holes for the 5th gear and they are very easy to starve when temperatures get too low, which it has been roughly 0-15* here. I also read that the seal on the transmission gear shift unit (0A4301230H) can get worn out and allow back and forth play in the shift unit. Lastly the 5th gear is pretty weak and teeth like to shear off.
I had installed new shifter bushings the week I bought the car, and the fluid was flushed and replaced with Liqui Moly and their MoS2 additive about 5k miles ago. I'm hoping it is just the cables out of alignment due to the cold, but if not I will explore the options, as I have priced out all of the replacement parts and it'll be around $1k to replace the gear, 5th synchros, shift fork, and the gear shift unit. So a 02Q might not be out of the question.
I tried to manually pull up on the selector and move it right into the 5th position. Would not engage, so I am lead to believe that something is either wrong with the selector shaft of the transmission or the 5th gear itself.
I recently noticed a rattling coming from my intake manifold and with little research I discovered it was the intake shifter rod. I ordered the new updated bushings and installed them today and the rod continues to rattle just as bad. My car only has 90k and I am unsure what to do to fix the noise. I am hesitant to order a whole new shifter rod because it could be the manifold itself too worn. I am just curious if there is anything that I may have overlooked or if there is anything I can do.
View 4 RepliesThere is only one DIY i can find that is still alive. I have a megan short shifter. Its already half way in. I just don't have any instructions and i am kind of at a loss as to where i go from here. Does this shifter change the way my reverse gear will be engaged? I mean will i need to pull the trigger up to go in reverse or will i still push down? Does the spring that came with the kit go under the sleeve or above it? Sounds confusing.
View 3 RepliesI have the 20th anniversary GTI with the 6-speed manual at 90k miles
I have the Dieselgeek Short shifter installed so for the most part my shifter is nice and tight/precise. However, I have some play in the shifter while it is in gear and I understand that this is normal for a car as it ages. But I assumed that the Dieselgeek would've solved all the gear slop in my shifter, and I was wrong.
So is there a part I can replace to tighten it back up?
When the car is in gear it's great! Or at least it seems great. However, trying to place the Shift Lever in the car into the gear "slots?" is troublesome.
It feels as though there is a wall in the way for each gear, and i have to force my way through the wall. It's not absolutely Terrible, for i've been driving like this for months. But i want a smother shift! I want to be able to just slide the Shift Lever into gear without any hangups or major resistance.
Double Clutching seems to work, however it might just be from the small loss of RPMs through the process of double clutching.
Personally I would rather not have to double clutch just to see a slight improvement. I have big feet and they constantly are rubbing on the floor mat as well as the plastic above the pedals, so double clutching always feels like i'm wedging my foot into a hole, then back out and in, before i can go into another gear lol.
The problem is only a real issue when i'm in higher RPMs giving the car more gas. I.E. after a fast launch in first, shifting even around 5500 puts a WALL up on second gear making it impossible for me to get it into second gear, after not getting it into second i usually throw it in third, and essentially lose all the acceleration i had from the first gear launch.
As well is there anyway to make the clutch a little stiffer? She grabs fine, i just like stiffer clutch, it requires less of me trying to wedge my huge foot on the pedal.
It's an un-molested MKIV Jetta VR6 with 167k.
My problem is that it pops out of 3rd gear when I let off the gas. I have had this problem before so any tips on setting my shifter linkage?
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