Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Rumbling / Vibration In Gas Pedal
Oct 30, 2014
So recently I have been feeling this weird rumbling/vibration in my gas pedal when I really gun it. Whats weird is i feel it mostly in first and second. But i feel it only on full throttle and under boost. I am assuming it has something to do with suspension. But whats weird is it happened after i installed my dp. So would this just be a coincidence or something else? I do know for a fact that I need new strut mounts and bearings, but I've been reading up on them, and the symptoms aren't really similar.
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A rumbling vibration when i hit 75 and 80 not sure what it is...and I can feel it in the steering wheel...
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I have a 2001 gti that I just changed the cv axle on and it feels like it's failing already but there's no play in the axle or place it mounts to the tranny.. Doesn't feel like the last one I removed but rumbles and clicks at 30+mph.
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I've got this bad wobble that occurs when I accelerate its also followed by a rumble coming from the passenger side. A friend sitting in the pass also said she felt it under her feet. I have put in new control arms tie rods and ball joints, but before I put those parts in I had a vibration at around 50-75mph which is the reason I put in new control arms and ball joints. Then Driving after the new CAs In my Jetta was driving a bit more smoother but still small vibration under harder acceleration stress.
After taking a rough turn and minimal beating I now randomly have this pretty bad wobble and rumbling noise from 2nd-5th gear early in rpms, the more stress the Louder and rougher the wobble gets. I plan on getting an alignment this week, my only other thought would be an axle? I replaced my pass side axle less then a year ago because my original one snapped but it was with one from autozone...
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2006 camry LE - 4cyl - 140k miles
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The car idles pretty rough & loud but ive noticed its only when im in 'drive' with my foot on the brake, at stop signs/lights. Its also much worse when the engine is cold. It settles right down if I come to the stop and shift into 'park'. So as I roll to a stop and hold the car in place with the brake the engine starts vibrating.
I dont know much about these things but it almost feels like i'm restricting it by having my foot on the brake and the engine wants more gas or air or something (could be way off base, but thats how i perceive it)
The RPMs sit around 1,000 and as the engine idles/rumbles it gets up to maybe 1,200-1,400 RPMs which i didn't think was significant but im pretty new to this.
Forgot to mention the most important thing- there is a rumbling noise that goes along with the vibrating, again only while stopped, goes away immediately when i pull off the brake and hit the gas.
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Recently purchased my first Toyota, a 2012 Corolla S with 76,000 miles on the ODO. I have a concern about a front end rumbling.
First, the problem...
This "rumble" (the best way I can describe it) starts becoming noticeable around 20-25 mph, depending on the condition of the road I'm on (it could be lower, but I'm in Michigan, all the roads are bad here). This rumble isn't a noise, but more of a low frequency sensation that can be felt in the car and through the steering wheel, and vibrates the rear view mirror. The rumble comes and goes, it isn't constant. Sort of like driving over a rumble strips put on roads before stop signs/intersections, it seems to have an oscillation to it. The rumble intensifies very little with speed. It doesn't seem to oscillate any faster or rumble much harder, it's just there.
Things I've ruled out...
Brakes. When I bought the car, the first thing I noticed was that the front brake rotors were slightly warped, so I installed new rotors and good pads. That didn't get rid of the problem, though I didn't really expect it to.
Tires. The previous owner had seriously over-inflated these tires. Once taken down to their proper pressure, they were noticeably cupped down the middle. These tires were also horribly noisy would not balance, so brand new tires went on (Michelins). The new tires greatly improved the ride, reduced noise, and got rid of a lot of other shakes and vibrations, but the "rumble" remains.
Wheel Bearings. I'm not 100% on this one, but as far as I can tell, it's not the wheel bearings. I've taken the car out on twisty roads and there is no change in the rumble through hard turns, nor any additional vibrations of any kind. Usually bad wheel bearings will exhibit some noise or vibration when being loaded in a turn, but not in this case, so I've ruled them out.
Things I'm not sure about...
CV Joints. I've never had a CV joint go bad or fail on me, so I am unfamiliar with the common signs and symptoms. I have inspected the boots, and they appear to be in good condition and crack free, though that doesn't mean a joint isn't failing. There's no clicking during slow sharp turns, but I think that would only present itself if an outer joint was failing. I'm going to get the car in the air this weekend to do a drain and fill on the tranny (the fluid is getting pretty dark, so I want to get some new in there).
I drove a Ford Focus for the past 10 years and a Ford Contour for 10 years before that, putting over 200,000 miles on both, and never experienced any sort of problem like this.
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My car is 7k short of its drive train warranty expiring. I noticed a rumbling vibration when the transmission shifted between 3-4 gear at approximately 20-25 mph. Took it into the dealer, and their expert rode with me and verified that it indeed was vibrating, but that he had never seen this issue on the 2007 GS350 AWD. He said he would have to check around the country to see if others had this problem. Four days later, he advised me that he was told to flush the transmission 2-3 times and for me to drive it about 1k miles to see if that fixed it. Well, it doesn't do it anymore, but I'm not sure why, or that it won't do it again just after the warranty expires at 70k miles. I certainly don't want to look at a 4-6,000.00 transmission replacement after the warranty expires. The dealer obviously doesn't want to incur the expense either, under warranty. Even though the transmission does not rumble or vibrate anymore, should I ask for the replacement anyway?
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Tires just balanced and rotated yesterday (second time just in case done wrong before). New ball joints and bars installed about 50k ago. Left front shock may be bad, but only slightly.
The issue: At about 40-55 mph, there is a rumble in the cab, unknown origination. Everything vibrates, although it "seems" like the left mirror is shaking more. The seat, floor, steering wheel, everything vibrates.
When I let off the pedal, vibration and noise go away, even within the "vibe zone". It only vibes when any throttle is applied, even just a tickle. I brought the engine up to the vibe zone RPM (1500-1800'ish) while in park and neutral, all seems fine.
I checked the U-Joints, they seem tight. I don't have access to a scanner, unless I want to pay the dealer.
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So as careful as I tried to be - i'm merging from I287 onto I95 north - i drilled a freaking crater the size of texas with my front right tire. I pulled over shortly after to inspect the tire and rim - i did not see any visible damage (no tire bubble or loss of air pressure and the rim looked visibly ok).
As I got back on the highway - i noticed a low on and off hum - first around 45mph then it would go away until i hit 65mph to 75mph. Above and below that speed there is no on and off hum - above that speed there is no on and off hum either. It's hard to describe the precise noise but the hum was more drawn out then short on and off bursts i would expect from a wheel turning that fast - it was much longer on and off in duration.
I feel no vibration in the steering - I drove the car on a straight - relatively unpitched road to see if the alignment was screwed and noticed no shaking or pulling.
Inspected the tire 2 days later - still no bubble but the and and off hum between 65mph and 75mph is still there.
I've bent a rim once before - and the car shook from the steering wheel - i'm not getting that this time though i do feel some vibration in the gas pedal in addition to the hum between that speed range.
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2014 Passat 1.8T Gen III manual... Experiencing an audible rumbling with vibration at the front/mid of vehicle under specific circumstances.
*93 octane tune (high torque at low rpm)
*barely perceptible in 3rd, but more in 4th and very much in 5th
*about 1700-2200 rpm ONLY when deep into boost - as soon as I even slightly reduce torque, it goes away
*seems to be related to engine firing frequency (i.e., 2000 rpm = 66Hz firing frequency...still audible and tactile at same time)
*not related to road speed
*sweeping through problem area in 1st or 2nd goes too fast to develop the rumble.
Hypotheses:
*half shaft shake (torque related dynamic runout)
*engine mount/trans mount groundout from torque reaction
*exhaust system ground out due to torque reaction.
It doesn't feel like a misfire, not slipping clutch. I would hate to have to get a 91 octane tune or just avoid the sweet torque at 2k!
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I have a 07 f150 and while driving I have a vibration only in 4wheel drive high but not a bad one but when I take my foot off the throttle it gets worse as well as a rumbling sound!! this is only after a 6" lift was installed it seems and I have replaced both front drive shaft u joints thinking that was the problem but didn't solve the problem....
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I have an issue with a truck I recently purchased. I have a vibration that starts around 50, feels like a wobbling vibration. Than once I hit 75 it feels like the truck is going to fall apart. Heavy rumbling.
It's a Ford F-350 dually extended cab. With 115,000 miles on it.
I took it to the shop to balance out the wheels and all the wheels needed atleast 2 oz of weighs on each side. Some have as much as 4.75 oz on one side. Is it possible that I need 6 brand new rims?
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1999 Ranger xlt, 4 cyl. 2wd reg cab, automatic. Getting a rumbling noise with some vibration in the floor ( nothing in the steering wheel, does not seem to affect handling ) runs consistently and relative to speed of vehicle......can not isolate or determine origin of noise.........
When initially driving car after sitting for awhile, the noise does not kick in until 50 to 100 yards have been traveled but is consistent thereafter,.....except for.. completely disappears during taking of left handed curves at good speed but reappears when road straightens...... right-hand turns have no affect positive or negative.
Have thrown into neutral at speed and sound and vibration is unaffected,.... brand new tires ( needed them ) with balancing had no affect either Struts, shocks, springs?
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This morning I could feel vibration in both the clutch pedal and the brake pedal under normal acceleration. This just happened and is significant enough to make me feel something is wrong. Car has about 5700 miles on it. To be honest, I have never liked this transmission and have zero confidence in it. It feels completely weak, loose, soft, and lacks any feedback except unbelievably notchy shifting. Maybe it's my DieselGeek. I've already had to tighten/adjust it twice in ~2000 miles.
I am not resting my foot on the pedals during acceleration. I can feel the vibration as I go to engage the clutch/apply brakes.
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My 2006 RAV4 Sport 4WD, 80K miles, is making a light rumbling or light vibration noise as I drive down the road. It's intermittent, and will generally stop making the noise when I let off the gas (auto trans). It happens at different speeds and will always quit if I let off the accelerator, but doesn't always quit if I step on it. It's just faint enough I can tell it's there, and doesn't sound or feel very severe. I probably would never notice it if my stereo was on. I thought it might be my Bridgestone tires, which have less than 10K miles on them, but I would think the noise would continue even if I let off on gas.
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Ok...not sure were to go with this or how to explain it, while climbing a steep paved hill at 5-10 mph I get a rumbling vibration and noise. If I were to guess almost like axle wrap is causing the U Joints to bind or something. Runs and drives fine other then that. If I put it in 4x4 it does not happen, only seems to happen when wheels cant slip while climbing hills at LOW speed.
Don't notice it if climbing a dirt hill. There is a hill at the kids baseball fields that is steep and paved that its really bad on, way to busy right now to play on it to see what's happening. Tranny was looked at and oil changed.
New BDS 4" lift - had same issue prior to lift, though stock springs were worn.
Searched the form but really didn't come up with anything at this low of speed. While in Wisconsin the resort we were at the paved hills were so steep it felt like something was going to break. Put it in 4x4 and it was fine. This was with stock leafs.
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I have a stunning r32 2004 with an hpa ft450 turbo fitted,(also porsche cayenne discs , calipers , adj suspension , milltek high flow cat , strut brace front and rear, seat splitter, ) all receipts and work carried out bought car like this. On cold it runs good and boost is good , but as soon as its warm (about 4 mins ) in 3rd 4th 5th 6th gear when the boost kicks in I get a biggish vibration through acc pedal and steering wheel, but nothing untoward before boost apart from a slight misfire on idle, the car is running rich and using plenty fuel, the turbo was fitted at 18k and now done 23k, so its very low milage.
I have fitted 3 coil packs, new plugs (old ones were black), I have been told, that the car goes through o2 sensors for fun, just cant understand why, i have no lights coming on , and going for vagcom diagnostic in the morning.
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i have a 2013 golf r with about 2k miles. Say if I am in second gear and i kinda press the pedal a little harder then i usually do, i hear a weird noise. kinda sounding like a fake exhaust sound or some sort of vibration near where the e brake is. when i let go of the pedal the noise goes away. I know my description is terrible but its honestly a strange noise.
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So for the past few weeks, i was getting this weird vibration coming from my brake pedal.. When I am about at 40 mph driving and braking or even when I am slowing down with out braking it vibrates.. I checked my wheel bearings.. I don't think that it.. since my steering wheel is not shaking when i brake, i think my rear rotors would be warped..
Also my idle is weird on my car.. I switched my coils and plugs.. it jumps.. really slightly and there is a big one.. when I opened my hood up there is this weird noise like a rattling noise and that is when the idle jumps up and down.. something like this [URL]....
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I have been having troubles with my 2016 GTI clutch. There has always been a gritty/sandy feeling while disengaging/engaging from the first day.
On top of it, this weekend I noticed that there is a vibration/pulsation in the pedal at higher rpm (3000+), as this weekend my car was close to the break-in 1000 miles, so wanted to take it out for some spirited driving.
While shifting 2-3, 3-4 at 3000-4000 rpm, I can feel a rough pulsation in the pedal (no noise) when the pedal is around mid-way pressed.
I further experimented, to see if this happens in neutral, so parked the car with E-brakes, and then pressed gas pedal, and pumped the clutch. Have the same rough pulsation/vibration.
I took it to the dealer (right infront of my workplace), and they said this is normal, "you are just feeling the engine from your clutch"...
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My 2000 f250 4x4 V10 5spd manual with LSD and 63k mi gets an intermittent but very strong vibration like a shuddering, growling, rumbling in 2WD. The 1st time it only lasted about 1 second. It had been making a swooshing noise that sounded like front left wheel bearing for several thousand miles before this, so i replaced bearing assembly even though it turned smoothly.
After that, It still made the exact same swooshing noise and after a couple miles at 45mph, it had the strong vibration/shudder that lasted about 3 seconds. I stopped and locked the hubs manually. The vibration happened again in a couple miles, so seems like it's not the needle bearings in front stub shafts or locking hubs. On that last occurrence, the vibe went on for 5 seconds, felt the same with clutch in, and went away only after truck slowed down to nearly a stop. I've driven it about 6 mi total since the 1st occurrence.
Front right Wheel bearings feel smooth. I unbolted the driveshaft support bearing and it spins smoothly. The front u-joint maybe had a tiny bit of play, all bolts tight. I didn't check the nuts for yokes, but it didn't look like yokes had any play. Drive shaft slip joint moves smoothly. No up-down play at pinion shaft input into rear diff and output from transfer case. Rear diff oil was full with a little bit of silvery sludge on the magnetic filler plug, maybe 1/10 of a cc, no metals slivers or chunks. I raised the rear wheels and ran 5th gear 2WD at idle (~30mph) and touched a 4' listening stick to the drivetrain components.
The only odd sounds were from the rear differential. It sounded like a bad bearing with random crunches and thuds mixed in with the normal whirring. Crunches and thuds were loudest at front of diff housing. I blocked one wheel and repeated in 3rd gear. You could hear noise like gears meshing (noisy spider gears? maybe was LSD clutches?). The differential was warm after 5-10 minutes, with the hottest area being about 3" from the front of diff, just before the housing widens.
So, I'm guessing the pinion bearing is bad and the intermittent shudder is the bearing race spinning in the case when bearing seizes.
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