Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Rumbling And Clicking At 30+ MPH - New CV Axle Broken?
Dec 10, 2014
I have a 2001 gti that I just changed the cv axle on and it feels like it's failing already but there's no play in the axle or place it mounts to the tranny.. Doesn't feel like the last one I removed but rumbles and clicks at 30+mph.
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So recently I have been feeling this weird rumbling/vibration in my gas pedal when I really gun it. Whats weird is i feel it mostly in first and second. But i feel it only on full throttle and under boost. I am assuming it has something to do with suspension. But whats weird is it happened after i installed my dp. So would this just be a coincidence or something else? I do know for a fact that I need new strut mounts and bearings, but I've been reading up on them, and the symptoms aren't really similar.
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I've got this bad wobble that occurs when I accelerate its also followed by a rumble coming from the passenger side. A friend sitting in the pass also said she felt it under her feet. I have put in new control arms tie rods and ball joints, but before I put those parts in I had a vibration at around 50-75mph which is the reason I put in new control arms and ball joints. Then Driving after the new CAs In my Jetta was driving a bit more smoother but still small vibration under harder acceleration stress.
After taking a rough turn and minimal beating I now randomly have this pretty bad wobble and rumbling noise from 2nd-5th gear early in rpms, the more stress the Louder and rougher the wobble gets. I plan on getting an alignment this week, my only other thought would be an axle? I replaced my pass side axle less then a year ago because my original one snapped but it was with one from autozone...
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I have a binding and clicking-ish noise at low speed. Is that a sign of a bad axle?
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I'm almost 99% positive I need to replace my Drivers Front Axle Assembly. I can feel it "click" when I reverse down my drive way and at low speeds regardless whether I turn the wheel. However, at street speeds, you can no longer feel it. I wanted to know if all Axles aftermarket are created equal.
Can I go with the one from ECS : [URL] ..... Or is this a part where staying OEM is important?
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I have an 02 Jetta the the left CV Axle came loose from the tranny/axle flange. I checked the Bentley and it shows that a bolt holds the flange on, I guess a spline. My question when taking one off, is there anything inside that will drop/pop off when I pull it? The reason I need to take it off is that some of the bolts actually broke off, while others screwed their way out. Not sure why they came out or what made the others break but they did. It would be so much easier to get the broken bolts out with the flange out.
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I am stuck in the process of replacing a driver side CV axle on a 2000 Jetta VR6 automatic. I followed a Youtube video that may have misguided me. I removed the ball joint connection to take out the axle. (I will need a alignment after all this.) I was able to take out the old cv axle, but unable to put the new one on. While taking out the old one, the strut sank 2 inches. I then disconnected the suspension from the braking system, so it would be lighter and easier to push the strut up. However, it will not budge upwards. Do I need to compress the spring? How to move the strut up?
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So I bought two tail lights there good it's just on one of the taillights all the thread to secure them in are broken off. So i have no way of getting it to stay. The trunk is the only thing holding it together. I have a 2004 vw golf.
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So I just had my transmission replaced because my cv axle popped loose and tore a hole right into my old one spilling all the tranny oil all over the road. I was able to find another used one and then bolt it up and now I have a small issue. Its been leaking a little bit of tranny oil through the one piece on the bottom that has two bolts on it and a VW logo on it.
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I recently just lowered my gti and I noticed that the sway bar was laying on my passenger side axle. I put adjustable end links on but that did not got the problem either, this car I daily drive.
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So I just but my golf about a month ago and have hit many problems but the most annoying is the hum I get at 3500 rpms. In my searching I feel somewhat confident this is caused by a cheap right axle replacement. I also went under and found on the left axle markings that indicate its is oem VW and I was unable to find these on the right side. anyway I have found this: [URL]....
It says it is a hollow axle right there and it is 170 less than the cheapest oem one I have found. would this workout?
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I changed the driver side axle on my 03 GLI 24v VR6 today and the driver side of the car now seems higher than it was. I was given the wrong axle twice so the car sat on a jack stand for hours could this be why? If so how long will it take to revert? Only things that was undone was the ball joint and tie rod so I'm not too sure why it seems higher.
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I recently purchased 2003 gti with a broken timing belt i bought a reman cylinder head did the timing belt, water pump, belt tensioner, cam chain, and cam chain tensioner. I read the service manual and many forums before setting the timing. I got it all set and back together it runs great at the low end but it feels like when it starts to build boost pressure it stops making power. Would i throw a check engine light if the timing was any off? Would it run well on the low end and then lose power if the timing was off or should i be looking in a diffrent direction? I just want to make sure timing is not an issue.
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I am replacing the mid and rear (suitcase) mufflers on my daughter's 2001 2.0L Jetta wagon. She is not interested in anything that would be louder than stock. What I am seeing is that the rear axle needs to be dropped to remove / install the rear muffler. Can this be correct? I know I can continue to cut off parts of the old muffler but that does me no good when it comes to install the new unit.
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I have a 2004 GLI that I just completed the slave cylinder on, after i got everything back together my driver side axle is now rubbing really bad on the sway bar where it connects to the endlinks. What could be wrong?
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So I recently bought a GTI and started to fix a couple things. It has a P0420 code so I bought a new downpipe to install. Noticed the stock one was missing 1 of the nuts and the stud had broken off. How get this out? Do I need to remove the turbo? Looks like I do need to remove the turbo to use an extractor set.
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The other day when i wanted to start the car, I found out my battery was death so i decided to ask my buddy to push me and crank it on gear. Car shakes as normal and engine started, but then i heard a weird noise like if something was rubbing. I turned it off and popped the hood. I found my engine leaning forward and toward the passenger side.
So the next morning, I checked the bay again and i found out that it wasn't the motor mount. Motor mount is ok, but then i found a broken bolt that holds the bracket to the block; the one that goes right next to the water pump to be more specific. Also in the back of the block there is a bolt that hold bracket to the block again and the thread whole was enough weak to break when the other bolt failed. So I did some research and i found that there is a solution for the bolt in back of the block.
What I am concerned is for the on the goes right next to the water pump. It seems that it broke the whole thing including the part where the bolt threads go. I just had a shop install I.E connecting rods, new piston rings, and rebuilt the heads. They put a new timing belt kit and all its job required. I think they might have a bit of fault on this since it had to be removed when they did the timing belt kit. Anyways I don't want to think my block will be a junk now because engine is running like a champ, and that would be a bummer.
-Bolt that is broken in two pieces.-
-And where it is attached to the block-
-Part of the engine where this all goes.-
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I have a 5-speed and my center shifter console is completely broken. I went to the junk yard and didn't find any manuals but plenty of autos. Is an auto console the same? It looks like the only difference is the boot/selector area.
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It appears the Engine By fuel line connectors are broken. I searched for DIY'ers on how to fix, but so far I only see those related to fixing other sections on the fuel line, not this upper section. It's on the passenger side. How to fix it?
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During the removal of my hood. I've broken my fluid line for the windshield washer. Not sure how to replace or if this is able to go back in my hood, I've searched and have fallen short to a decent answer.
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I own a 2000 Chrysler 300m, and have been driving it daily for the past three years. The car had 102,000 miles when I bought it, it now has 158,000. About three months ago, at 154,000 miles, the driver side wheel bearing began to hum. Shortly after, before i was able to fix the bearing, the ball joint on the passenger side snapped. I had it towed in to a shop, and the mechanic told me I needed a ball joint as well as a new CV axle.. The mechanic didn't fix the wheel bearing on the other side, and I took the car back as it was because I needed transportation. when he returned the car, he told me that I needed the same thing done on the other side, but that I had a month or so to do it.
A week later, the wheel bearing broke on the driver side, and I returned the car to him. This time he changed bearing assembly, another CV axle, two outer tie rods, new caliper bolts, and new tie rod sleeves. When I got the car back, he told me I needed an alignment, and to go someplace else and get one. I drove the car and it rode the same as it did before, so I didn't get the alignment. Three months later, I have put only 4000 miles on the car and the passenger side ball joint and CV axle just broke again.
The mechanic says that this is because I didn't get the alignment, but I'm not so sure. I've driven cars that needed to be aligned before, and never had any ball joints break as a result. I think that he may have not put it on right, or missed something else that caused the problem. Is it likely that needing an alignment would cause a ball joint to break this quickly, on only one side, or is this guy trying to hose me?
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