Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Right Side Rear Is Set Back Further Than The Left Side Rear
Feb 11, 2015
I Have had my 99.5 jetta for 4 years now, car drives straight, no tire wear issues, but from day one I have noticed by looking in the wheel wells of both rear tires that the r/s rear is set back further than the l/s rear, l/s rear looks centered in the wheel wheel and the r/s rear looks to be back further and not centered, no evidence of any rear damage from a previous owner, car drives straight as an arrow , I'm stumped, all four tires have worn even in the past 3 years.
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I own a 2000 Jetta GLS TDI 5 speed with 501,000 kms on it. The problem I have is the passenger seat back release handle broke off so there is no way to fold down the seat.
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2003 Ex rwd 6.0l 125,000 miles. The complete rear left side door is stuck shut and has been for about 6 months. This is not a side door, but the very back where the lift gate is. I sprayed wd40 in there, nothing. It won't budge. If its a broken cable inside, how to I take off the interior door panel to get to the access holes and actuator on that door or both doors on the tailgate?
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I am having a problem with my 2007 R32 manual,over the last few weeks its developed a whining noise in what seems to sound from the rear left side,more so when driving around a left hand corner (weight is off the noisy side),or when i let my foot off the gas and let the car run,ive jacked it up and when I grab the back left drive shaft and shake it, I found there's a bit of play on the side going into the diff, there's 70000 miles on it and no problems to date, looking for some info on what problem could be?
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ok, its been 9-10 months now, and i have only 3500 miles on my gx.just looked at the back wheel wells.
The left side of the truck in the back is sitting about 1.5 inchs higher than the right rear? I measured the distance between the rims and the edge of the panel in the back. I am baffled. I raised it, lowered it, and still unequal height. Its going to the dealer on wednesday.
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I finally got rid of my 2.0 and upgraded to the Vr6 5-speed. The other day my driver side rear door just came open. I tried closing it but it just bounce back open. I tried those methods of YouTube to see if that works but still nothing. Now i had to tie my door shut and experience my car not being locked completely. My alarm would go off and everytime i drive my car, i have to deal with that annoying ding the car makes when the doors are open.
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Watch this video. I have a rattle/noise coming from the rear right side of my car for almost 2 years now.
The part in the video is the neck of the fuel tank just behind the plastic inner fender.
[URL] ....
Is this normal? i don't know where to search anymore to find where the rattle comes from...
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Upon putting on my winter wheel i was checking if the bolts were too long and my rear passenger side wheel wasn't spinning. I took the wheel off and checked the rotor and it took a lot of force to spin because the caliper didn't go back. I took the brake fluid line out hoping it would decompress the caliper and it did not, and brake fluid leaked out a tiny bit. This leads me to believe that my caliper is bad. Just want to make sure before I order another one
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There is a knocking sound in the rear passenger side area. Cannot diagnose the cause, what it could be. I checked the bushings for the anti sway Bar but that was not it.
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I can't seem to figure it out. I've been having a water leak in my gti. Here's the facts
-rear drivers side floor is soaked wet, nowhere else.
-I pulled up the carpet and carpet pad and wiped the floor dry.
- poured water in sunroof drains and didn't see any new moisture, water ran out of the drains on all 4 corners.
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I have a creaking in the rear passenger side wheel area. Checked the anti sway bar that was not the problem I have no clue what it could be.
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I noticed a clunking noise in the rear of my car (drivers side more specifically). After doing some investigating, I noticed that the bushing in the rear shock absorber is completely shot. It is practically falling out and this is what is causing my noise. My question is, is it possible to be able to just replace the bushing in the shock? If not, I assume I could just replace the rear shocks without having to get a whole new set of coilovers? Can I replace the rear shocks with a different aftermarket brand or do I have to stick with raceland?
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I have a mkvi gti with all stock suspension except rear sway bar. And I'm right about to order driver gear springs. But have a question about suspension. My rear driver side of the car sits about half inch lower then then rear passenger side on a flat ground. Would this be caused by springs? Or struts? Or what. Planning on ordering the driver gear springs but what the real problem is. I want the driver gear so I'm a bit lowered but not crazy low since the roads in my home town are awful and my street I have to do figure 8's all the way down it to not hit a pot hole.
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The rear left side is rubbing over bumps with 2 adults in the back...
Specs are as follows :
Rays VR G25
19x8.5 ET45
19x9.5 ET42
Goodyear AS2 Front - 225/35/19, Rear - 265/30/19
Lowered on HKS Max IV GT
Really want to keep the lowered look and in fact I want to lower the rear 5mm more. Thinking of changing to 255 in place of the 265 for the rear.
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I keep getting oil in my coil well rear left side causing a misfire. I have already changed the seal twice not sure how oil is getting there or how to stop it.
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The rear (side) pop-out windows on my '02 X have begun to sag at the back of the truck. They operate just fine, but the glass is actually touching the body when they are closed.
It's hard to get a good picture, but I've included a couple anyway.
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I have been hearing a rattle from the left side of the car. By accident I found that when the rear left sunshade is extended the rattle goes away. When it is retracted it seems to sit in the door frame perfectly. My 05 Treg has 5000 miles on it and I have had this problem for the last 2000 miles.
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So I just did my rear brake pads and rotors a few days ago. For the last few months, my e brake hadn't been working well (have to pull it way up, and still weak).
While doing the brakes, I noticed the park brake arm was more or less seized on the left rear. I worked it a bit, and then my park brake worked perfect - 4 or 5 clicks, right on.
Then I noticed it isn't disengaging (brake smoke). I figured the ratcheting mechanism in the piston must be kaput.
So today I got a new (reman) caliper & bracket, installed it, and... still sticking. Cables are fine, the arm is moving fine. I'm now certain that the problem must be hydraulic, but what?
I would think that a master cylinder or booster would cause all the brakes to drag, or at least one axle worth, but that isn't the case. After a short spin on the freeway with little brake use, 3 of the brakes show 40 - 45C or so, and the sticking one shows 150C. (with an infrared thermometer).
During the brake job I noticed the left side was harder to turn in than the right, so I guess that could have been hydraulic back pressure somehow. Didn't seem to notice any damage to the hoses, they look pretty mint. master cylinder still?
I did the rear bearings at the same time. The bearing on the left was bone dry, probably from overheating in the past - I'm sure this POS stuck at some other time too, overheated and lost its grease. right side was fine but I figured might as well do them both.
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I can usually track these down, but this one is eluding me. It seems to be coming from the rear passenger side and really only bad when turning left or veering left at slow speeds.
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I checked fuse 23 as many people have said to do and nothing is wrong with it. any other things I could check?
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Recently purchased 2003 golf gti 1.8t that had a leak on left side of engine i think it was engine coolant hose flange it Didn't leak much and coolant stayed at 190. I took the car to a mechanic and he replaced the leaking hose but now the car rises past 190 at idle.
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