Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Revs High Between Shifts And Randomly Doesn't Start
Jun 25, 2014
I bought this car and I've changed out the Clutch Position Sensor, the black one on the clutch mount. Started to work and start but now it's doing the same symptoms as before. So here is what is going on.
1. Randomly doesn't start, full power comes on, and fuel system turns on, immobilizer works just fine as far as I can tell (key light turns off)
2. Cruise control doesn't work (which lead me to the CPS)
3. High revs between shift, once I push the clutch to shift it revs up high, I noticed that if I stay under 3k it doesn't do it as much, but if I go HAM on it it revs up about 1k rpm more than at shift point. But if I shift nice it revs about 2-400 rpm.
It's been tuned by C2 Motorsports, done by a certified mechanic, that's the only mod on the car, besides suspension. I bought the car and dropped 1100 to fix it to drive right, newish throttle body, and a major vacuum hose, and the tune within a month of getting the car and the tune was to mainly flash the ecu so it wouldn't pull two codes for a leak that wasn't there anymore.
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I have a 2005 GTI 1.8T with 203K miles, stock except for a MagnaFlow exhaust. My problem arose about a month ago. When I accelerate aggressively and shift from 4th gear to fifth at about 4K RPMs the engine will jump up to 5K RPMs. Happens while shifting from any gear when accelerating hard.
When I push down on the clutch and take my foot off the gas, I get a jump in RPMs. It's kind of like the boost in the turbo is not getting released. I replaced the stock diverter valve with a Forge DV with the splitter. Had no effect on my problem, but now I have that cool sound when I get off the gas.
Could this be the waste gate on the turbo not opening and releasing the boost when I get off the gas? I'm not very familiar with the intricacies of the Turbo functions and the diverter valve.
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My auto transmission is sticky at times. This usually happens after an hour of driving doesn't happen all the time. The gears start to change at high Rpms like 5 to 6k. It's real annoying. Otherwise the tranny is very smooth , like butter . Shifts into all gears.
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I posted awhile back about my R not wanting to start. It will start, just not turn over right away, but it will start the first time. However, it feels like it's going to stall out because the revs don't climb very high at all (1k at best) when it usually goes just over 1k to start, then drops down to 5-600rpms.
Yesterday, after it sat in the hot sun for nearly 3 hours, it cranked but didn't start right away. It had started right up when I left my house to go to the gym, and I drove it 5 miles to the gym.
Then again, this morning, after it had been sitting outside all night, I went to start it and it just didn't sound right when it started, like maybe fuel wasn't getting to the engine.
The car has 31,500 miles on it, has had all recalls done, and the battery checked out last month. The battery was fine, so it's not the problem. I have been doing some research on this issue, and have come up with the following things to have the dealer check:
-fuel pump
-fuel pump relay
-coil packs
-crank position sensor
-fuel pump fuse
-fuel filter
-injectors
-alternator
-starter motor
-crank angle sensor
-cam sensor
-check all grounds
-check fuses
And to top it off, I just drove it down the road and the sunroof randomly opened on its own. I have never had that happen before! Do you think the two are related at all? I'm just wanting to make sure what to tell the dealer when I drop it off later this afternoon. I ran a vag-com scan last night and there were no electrical or engine fault codes found, so I don't know what is up with it.
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I was 4 hours into a 6 hour trip (on the way home) and my air stopped working! when i press the AC button, it lights up on settings 1,2, and 3 but NOTHING blows from the vents (whether the AC button is pressed or not, nothing comes out!) however... when I turn it to "4," air blows full blast but the AC light turns off and only blows warm air.
thinking I need to check my compressor!
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Last year I had an issue with starting my 1.8t Jetta Gli. Every couple of weeks, the car wouldn't start unless I keep trying or come back after a couple of hours. I then thought it was the cranks sensor and had it replaced. Unfortunately, the problem is back! The idle seems a little jumpy, car isn't as smooth as I'd like it to be. It also doesn't seem to have a strong start. I can't figure out what it exactly is, and I don't want to start changing random parts. I was debating on perhaps getting a new fuel pump, coilpacks...
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I've got a Mk4 Golf 2.0L with 136k on the clock. Hasn't really given me any problems in the past year of ownership till now. I recently picked her up from the shop for a rear axle beam replacement. When I picked her up she drove fine. I headed to class for the day and she sat in a parking lot for 6 hours or so. I hop in and try to fire her up and nothing. Had to have her towed back to my apartments. I've checked fuses, spark plugs were recently replaced but I am getting no spark. When I crank it I do hear the fuel pump and I can smell gas when I crank it. The rpms go up just a bit, 100-200 range. Going to check out the crankshaft sensor later on. maybe it could be the coil pack as well? I don't know a huge amount about these cars, only some info. And I sadly have no access to a scanner to check for codes.
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I have a 120k miles manual 2000 jetta vr6 12v. I was having check engine issues so i put in a reader and showed me problems at catalytic converter. I don't remember the code, and no longer have a reader...
I was told to replace the oxygen sensors in both banks as well which i did.
I opened up catalytic converter to inspect and now the car will get no spark, the engine turns, and the display shows engine stop.
I was also told to put the oxygen sensor further away with an extension cord but not sure if that plays a part.
Does the catalytic converter is causing it to not spark?
Could there be an issue with maybe a sensor at the crankshaft that checks for motion?
What the starting sequence and dependencies are or what failures I could have that prevent the spark?
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Okay so my 2003 Jetta GLI normally starts without a problem. But it seems like whenever it gets cold (below about 40) it doesn't even try to start. I turn the key and nothing happens, the engine doesn't crank. All the lights turn on like normal and they're not dim so I don't think it's the battery. It'll still start if I roll-start it, but there isn't any sort of hill for a few miles. Normally once it warms up later in the day it'll start up.
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So, the very first time it happened was the weekend after I installed my new motor mounts I am not sure if it is a coincidence or if there was something that I touched while installing that is causing the car to act this way. So I notice that it's more common on the wet days even though I have started to doubt this recently as well. The instrument cluster illuminates CEL and EPC for a brief second and the car feels like it looses all power and sometimes even stalls when at idle but then after that goes away it runs like a champ. Also ever since this started happening the car is really hard to start after it sits off for few minutes when at normal running temperature. Right, when it happened I tried to scan it and I thought it was the scanner that was not able to communicate with it but that wasn't it since I have tried over 10 different kinds now( that includes the ones that have scanned my car with no problem before). I did have the CEL to stay on once but I still couldn't scan it and it went away by itself or I have reset it by disconnecting the battery. Its really driving me crazy and I am stuck but not giving up on this car, I love it too much and it's been very faithful to me so far! I mean there was literally two days recently when the weather was dry when I drove the thing without the random occurrence of EPC and CEL but it still didn't want to start when warm. In fact, one time after work after it has been sunny all day it didn't want to start when the engine was still cold as well.
The things I have replaced or tried so far that have not repaired it are:
*New Camshaft Sensor
*New Crankshaft Position Sensor
*New Purge Valve
*New Coil Pack
*Took off and cleaned my Throttle Body
*Checked with and OHM meter as many grounds as i could find between battery and they all checked good(the main engine ground looks good)
*Cleaned MAF sensor
*New Coolant Temperature Sensor
*Checked that all fuses were good and seated
*Verified that the k-line is good.
*Able to scan the ABS module and radio through vag com so i know its something with the ECU communication
That's all that I can remember as of now. the car went through many stages but here is how it looks as of now.
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I've got 149,xxx miles on my Golf TDI. Took it by a local shop for a routine oil change and since then, it's just been puking oil from the oil cooler. I took it back to the shop and the mechanic even pointed that out. Some red flags here; Timing is too shady. This happened literally the day after the oil change. He also told me that he won't use customer-supplied parts for liability reasons. Seems believable enough, but why would this part just choose to go wrong now?
This is my first time at this shop too and I've never really dealt with "bad mechanics" before but something about this isn't sitting right with me, and I'm not sure how to handle my next step properly. So what would cause an engine oil cooler to leak profusely just after an oil change?
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My 01 Jetta 2.0 started having issues a few days ago. The engine would crank, but wouldn't start. Wait a few minutes and it would start right up. I go to start it the next day and it would crank, but not start at all. I pulled the P0322 code and replaced the crankshaft sensor along with a new fuel pump, and spark plugs just to be safe.
Next, I checked for fuel and spark, which I have both. The car still won't start and seems to lose a charge on the battery pretty quick. At this point, there are no codes showing up. Could the engine be flooded from trying to start it so much?
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I am absolutely stumped and so are two mechanics I've been to. Randomly when I go to start the car the battery is so dead it won't start. Car is an AWD 2001 1.8T Jetta.
Replaced battery and alternator at my regular mechanic, all ground wires look great and couldn't find any shorts. There is a 11 Amp draw from my battery, took it to a shop that specializes in VW/Audi and they hooked it up to Vagcom and it showed absolutely nothing wrong. He left the meter hooked up and pulled every single fuse in the car and there was only like a 0.01 drop, nothing significant. When he went to take my car out of the shop, wouldn't start. So he put a battery pack on it, still wouldn't start. Took off both terminals on the battery, put them back on, put on the battery pack, and car started.
The aftermarket deck in it is just a JVC single din, doesn't seem to have any issues.
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Shifting especially at high revs. The noise also seems to happen when shifting to gears 2,3 and 4; not so much 5 & 6. What is the cause?
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My car now vibrates when slowing down and it only happens between 2-2.5k rpms! Also now the car has been idling higher at a standstill. The car will be fine then it will rev up to 1k.
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Yesterday when I started my car the coolant temp was near 100 (from a previous drive several hours prior) and it was over 80 degrees outside, yet the car went into high idle mode as though it was cold outside. It does this sometimes, but not always, and if I dont let it idle down and just start driving, it'll stay in high idle for a long time (i.e. even after a couple miles of driving, if I put it in neutral it'll rev back up to high idle).
Air temp sensor and coolant temp sensor are working properly, but it doesn't seem like a normal thing to do, but its done it for years. Anything else that might cause it, or any way to stop it?
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2003 Escape Limited V6 Auto 4x4 ... I am having issues with poor fuel milage and starting the SUV...
When i go to start the truck it winds over for abit then starts and revs really high?!?!? I did a complete tuneup, plugs, filter, fuel filter, oil and filter... I changed the fuel pump which has the fuel regulator built into it. I have no codes on the dash. Also if i am at a red light and i put it to the floor I MEAN TO THE FLOOR!!! the truck bogs then drives off NO POWER!!!
Im stumped! I dont know what to do and dont want to keep replacing expensive parts... fuel pump, etc...
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I have 95 ranger 3.0L revs up over 2000rpm at startup then comes down slowly to a little over 1000... Changed the IAC valve still does it... When I let it warm up I unplug the IAC and idles normal and smooth about 750 RPM so I don't think it's a vac leak... What else could it be???
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I have a 2000 pontiac grand prix (3.8) and when i was driving my car randomly shut off. When i tried to start it again, the car would start, rev a 1000 RPMs then dies a second later. If i pump the gas i can keep it running at around 2000 RPMs until i let my foot off the gas, then it dies After repeated attempts the tow truck was in need. the following day i ran some tests. when starting the car the fuel pressure would stay between 40-50 psi and doesnt drop below that. (excludes fuel pump, filter, etc..)
After running tests the car suddenly started up and continued to run with the rpm bouncing (+/- 100 rpm) i let the car run for 10 minutes and it began running perfectly. This has happened repeatedly in the past 3 days. I have noticed that when letting the car sit while runnig, it will usually die within 2 minutes, however if I am driving. It will sometimes be fine for hours. When attempting to start it by hitting the gas, the car will sometime sputter at 300 RPMs when hitting the gas will do nothing. in some situations i will hit the gas and the rpms will decrease and rise randomly. (letting my foot off the gas, rpms will hesitate before reducing).
When the car dies, i am at times able to get it running after spending 30 min fiddling with it. But half the time it wont start. I have a -P0107 and P0108, codes for high input and output of the MAP sensor. When i unplug the sensor it seems to have minimal effect to the running condition of the car. When i unplug it at times the car will keep a steady rpm while hitting the gas and the car acts no different when i unplug the sensor when the car is running well. I ordered a new MAP sensor which should arrive today so i can see if that is the problem.
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I have a 2005 Camry and it was stalling while driving occasionally. It had gotten worse, so I cleaned the throttle body as was suggested. Now, when I try to start it, the engine revs really high then goes back down and dies. This is without putting any pressure on the accelerator. What to do next?
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So my story starts simple enough; I ran out of gas in my buddy's car, filled it back up, it finally started but ran like >poop< for the first 10 min or so. Finally after coaxing for 10-15 min, she stays coming around. After 30 min or so of driving, I could drive her all I wanted, so long as I didn't let it idle below 12-1500 rpm. If I did that, she'd kill, and stall out. Well I drove her the other day for most the day and it seemed the kinks were worked out. So today when I tried to drive her round the block for a final check, she up and dies, and hasn't started since. I've replaced the fuel filter, checked the intake, and dropped a can of sea foam in to the tank to boot, but no dice.Signs and symptoms seem to mimic a bad mass air flow sensor or possibly a clogged catalytic converter, with the exception that it only shudders and acts congested on low rpm's and doesn't choke out at high revs.
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