Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Replaced Thermostat Now Alarm Going Off All The Time?
Apr 20, 2016
So I replaced my thermostat today... to do that I unhooked the negative terminal of the battery, removed the hose off the thermostat housing (I think that's what it's called) and disconnected the switch to the alternator as well as take off the 13mm jam nut holding the wire to the side of the alternator. I reconnected everything up, put the key into the ignition and just turned it before starting the car and the alarm started going off. I disabled the alarm from controlling the lights and horn by unplugging the electrical connector just behind the fuse panel so I could do some errands today. I then disconnected both terminals on the battery and touched them together to reset the ecu.
After reading that holding the key into the door lock until the windows roll down would reset the alarm; this weekend I'm going to hook up my driver side door lock mechanism (been a little lazy) and give that a try.
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My son has a 2002 Jetta, we just changed the water pump and the thermostat. The car will sit at idle and the temperature will stay around 190. When you drive down the road the temerature will rise and when you let off teh gas the temperature goes back down. What this could be, I have tried everything I can think of to fix this car.
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So I had my hood open to check my oil, not a big deal for a 2001 Jetta 1.8t. When I shut the hood, the car decided to simultaneously lock, and now the horn/alarm is going off and the key fob won't unlock the car or disable the alarm. And the keys don't work in the door/trunk so I can't get inside. What I should do?
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02 Jetta 2.0L that I changed the thermostat. o-ring, and cover on when I first got the car about a year and a half ago.
I see dry g12 coming out from behind the cover and my coolant bulb had dipped quite a bit in recent weeks requiring a refill. What is most likely the problem here in such a short period of time? I've only put like 10k miles on the car in that period. O-ring couldn't have seated wrong because wouldn't the problem have been apparent immediately back when I did the job? Maybe I need to re-torque the cover? Cracked cover?
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Today I replaced my thermostat and thermostat housing. I happened to be unfortunate and cracked my dipstick tube (probably should be replaced at 135k miles anyways). I know I can get it at the dealership, but it's pretty far out of my way and wouldn't mind just ordering it from ecstuning or something.
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Finally got around to replacing my Thermostat because the DIY here made it look so much easier than removing the alternator and such. Did everything exactly as described and after assembling everything with the new t-stat and O-ring I am getting a constant leak from the housing. I tried removing everything and reassembling...all the bolts are tight. Plastic housing isn't cracked and seems to be in great shape. Everything lines up properly but coolant is just running out of the bottom of the housing. Am I missing some magical trick here?
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So I'm also noticing my car occasionally makes a huge thud sound from time to time when I put it into two certain gears. From park to reverse it's not loud but there's a little noise, but from any gear into Drive it's sometimes a loud boom and the car shakes. My pops mentioned to me this is dangerous because of how the engine is moving underneath the hood when it happens. I just recently changed the dog bone mount, could it be the others? I'm ware that it's wise to change all 3 if you change one but I was on a budget & it was a lot worse before. Someone mentioned it might be my torque converter but I did some research & the two symptoms don't add up. And I'll add once more that this happens occasionally & not every time I switch to a different gear. What it may be?
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My engine started overheating, and because I was stuck on a bridge during rush hour (George Washington Bridge in NYC), I couldn't get stop the car. I drove it for approximately 30 min (slow crawl), and this happened: [URL] .....
Yes, I know how stupid it is, but there was not even a shoulder to pull over to the side. The only good thing is that this happened pretty much soon as Igot off the bridge, and not on the bridge.
Hose by the radiator cap (is that the overflow hose?) popped out and spewed steam for good 5 minutes. The car did not start at this point. I left the car by the gas station after the bridge, and came back later on in the night. It started and I was able to drive it home (about 10 min away) at crawl speed without it reaching the red zone.
Today, I just did the oil change, topped off on the coolant, and also replaced the thermostat. But the engine still overheats (to the red). The upper radiator hose is burning hot and the bottom radiator hose is not. Also, the fan is working, but it blows out pretty hot air.
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2002 Camry 4 cyclinder. P0128 code - replaced the thermostat and coolant. P0128 code is now locked in. Lifetd the battery cable, but it is still there when I start the engine - or - it comes comes back immediately when I start the engine. Coolant temperature looks normal on the dashboard gage when I drive the car. What should I do now?
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problem is the my 1998 Legacy (142K) overheated this past weekend. It shut off and I had it towed to a "new" mechanic around the corner from my house. He diagnosed the problem as being a faulty thermostat. He replaced the thermostat and returned the vehicle to me. Two days later my wife was driving home and the car had a major overheating incident with resulting serious mechanical failure. I did a little research and within about five minutes found that this problem is quite common for this car and is more commonly related to a head gasket issue. My question is should this mechanic be held responsible in any way for the misdiagnosed problem? If so, what would be the best course of action? The car was otherwise running fine and in fact I recently had the transmission rebuilt.
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Bought this truck at auction a few days ago. Started drive home and noticed temp gauge almost pegged full hot. Stopped and left it and pickup up later that day with trailer. Got home and started and ran it. Will not overheat at idle. Gauge fluctuates between full cold and 1/2 at idle. Rev up and temp drops to full cold. Drive around town under 35 and it stays between 1/2 and 3/4. Get on the highway and Pegs full hot. Replace thermostat and flushed system. Lots of rusty water and chunks of rust/mud poured out.
Upper rad hose is firm and hot. Lower rad hose is warm soft. Bypassed heater core and still over heats. I can run water hose from top hole on radiator and water crosses threw radiator and pours out the bottom so I don't think it's clogged. It's not the head gasket, I have no smoke, no milky oil and no oil in coolant. Fan clutch seems fine, I can spin it with the engine off and feel resistance. Truck hasnt boiled over while running hot so the gauge may be wrong. If it means anything the truck runs very rough and pulled up a misfire on cylinder #1 and had a iac code.
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My son has a Mustang GT 5.0 that is overheating. I replaced the radiator with a heavy duty 3 core radiator. It had underdrive pulleys so I replaced them with stock pulleys. I put dual electric fans on it. I flushed the block and put a new thermostat and replaced all the hoses (made sure the bottom radiator hose had wire in it so it wouldn't collapse). I put a new water pump and drive belt but it still overheats when sitting in traffic and overheats when driving with the A/C on.
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I replaced the fan clutch and thermostat on my 1999 5.4. Do I need to "burp" the system or anything?
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2000 Golf GTi 1.8t
Key fob has not worked for awhile so I use the physical key to lock and unlock the door. I locked the doors when I went to the movies last night come out and unlocked the doors as I always do, Get in and start my car and the alarm starts going off.
So of course I have a little freak out moment after about 30 seconds it went off. So I turn the car off and start it again same thing happened. I say screw it and drive it and the alarm shuts off once more.
I did notice when I got home and turned the car off the red light by the drivers side door lock knob was blinking.
I have looked all over the place and everything that I read says the car won't start. My car starts and drives just fine it's just when I first start it the alarm goes off for about 30-45 seconds.
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My 04 jetta, if I use any buttons on the remote it sets the alarm off. I've checked with a vag com and can see all the doors, hood and trunk open and close. Central locking works, it locks at speed, and will lock / unlock all the doors from the drivers door lock .
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So my issue, had heat last year, turned on first time this year and its cold. So I did some research on the site and have done a few things but still no heat
First thing I did was flushed coolant system and add new coolant as I have 235,000 miles on the truck and it looked rough
Ran the truck for a while and checked heater core hoses, they were both warm, not hot by any means so I pulled the thermostat and replaced the thermostat and gasket
Now the hoses to heater core are both hot and my temp gauge went up about 1/4" higher than it ever has, but still no heat.
Blows fine, just cold or sometimes luke warm. I pulled the glove box back to try and see I I could hear anything when I change from hot to cold and I hear or see nothing. Only movement I see is when changing cycles from defrost, heater, ac... So could this be a blend door issue an how do I get to the blend door, is it behind the big plastic plenum box?
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the only thing that is left to replace would be the radiator?my truck is a 1994 f150 and it is not overheating!i get lukewarm heat only on the highway,everywhere else it is cold air!!this new england weather is killing me
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Well my alarm is not working properly, when lock my doors all my doors lock but yet my headlights don't flash and i dont get any alarm chirp..
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I found out why my alarm would not honk on arming.. the hood microswitch had fallen out of the latch.. i can't for the life of me find the right place for it.. Looking for a pic of the proper install?
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I replaced the thermostat in my 2000 3.1L Grand Prix SE yesterday. I had to remove the throttle body to get access to it. After putting it all back together, my car now idles around 3000rpm in Park or Neutral. It drops to around 2k when driving which is still a little high. I can definitely feel it taking off faster and it seems to buck a little bit here and there while driving. I did hear a loud hissing sound when I first started it up right around the throttle body area. I don't hear the hissing sound anymore, though. It justs sounds like it's running a lot harder. So my question is, would a leak around the throttle body (I did not use a new gasket and it's possible that the gasket wasn't properly seated) cause these symptoms? On the plus side, my car seemed to heat up super fast!
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So in my 05 gti , the door ajar light stays on and when it does go off it will randomly blink ! I'm guessing there must be a loose connection somewhere ? Also all of a sudden my alarm will randomly go off . It's annoying . I'm not sure how to fix it .
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