Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Replaced Battery And Alternator Now AC Stopped Working?
Jun 30, 2015
I have a 2000 VW Golf 2.slow. I have done some research from other threads but I'm wondering if mine is a simpler fix then testing all the wiring. After taking the car to Auto-Zone and having my battery and alternator tested they said the alternator was the problem. I had to wait a day to get paid to buy the alternator so I had them charge the battery. After I put the battery back in and started her up I got a flashing e-brake light, ABS light and no A/C. My A/C clutch compressor isn't kicking in either. I checked my brake fluid and it's fine as well.
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I just recently replaced my alternator and battery in my 08 Toyota yaris and it's still not holding a charge. My blinkers, radio, and heating and air won't come on , also my wheel is hard to turn and in order to shift gears I have to push down the white button near the shift stick. I'm so confused as to what else could be going wrong and my mechanic can't seem to figure things out my last resort is the dealership but I'm thinking that would be expensive
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After changing my dead alternator and resulting dead battery, I am having what seems to be electrical issues with my 2.8L VR6.
Neither of my keys can unlock or lock the car remotely and when I try to start the car, all the regular lights turn on in the dash, but the engine dosn't make a sound. Inside the car there is no power apart form the gauges, no windows, no AC, no sunroof, nothing. I have checked the fuses, unplugged the battery and plugged it back in, even changed the batteries in my keys to make sure that they weren't out, and nothing works. I have also tried to reprogram both keys and neither of them unlock the doors.
I think that it might have something to do with the anti-theft system, since I didn't touch anything while changing out the alternator.
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I recently replaced the battery for my 2007 Lexus GS 350 and the AC stopped working. The AC button on the panel says "check air conditioner connection. The Audio button also says Audio off, although the ML is working, but It also doesn't show the channel.
I have checked the fuses and they seem to be ok. I purchased this car used under a year ago and everything was working fine until battery change.
The only modification previous owner has made is an iSimple to listen and o iPod from the car stereo. I have seen others on this forum having same symptoms when newly installed iSimple. Removing iSimple fixed their problem.
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My battery went dead so I replaced with new. This did not fix the problem so I replaced the alternator. It's working now but the battery light stays on. I think I still have a problem.
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Been the proud owner of a '04 Golf for a few years but it hasn't been without its share of hiccups. I recently had my battery die on me. Got the car looked at and apparently the alternator was the culprit, ie, it wasn't functioning and re-charging the battery. Swapped out the OEM for a rebuilt Bosch 120A (my car is a 2.0GL, so it's supposed to be 90a default, but I looked online and saw that I could use the 120). Even put in a new battery as the old one was past its prime. Now the new alternator (which was not fun to install) isn't working either. I had a different mechanic look at it and they said that while the auto shop gave me the right part number, that apparently VWs are hinky with aftermarket parts and I'd have to take it to a VW dealer for a diagnostic? Makes no sense as I've seen tons of people online who've used aftermarket alternators with no problem.
So now the car essentially is dead in the water. Battery light comes on when the car is started and I'm not tempted to not drive the car anywhere out of fear that the new battery will die in mid-traffic. I've checked the grounds, pulley, etc, everything looks fine and connected proper. What could be going on?
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I am having a really curious issue with the charging system on my 1999 Golf VR6. The battery will not charge and the alternator seems to be nonfunctional. While running the voltage at the battery starts normal but drops until the engine dies within 20 minutes. Over the last two days I have replaced the alternator, battery, and the battery grounding cable with no change in behavior. The exciter wire on the alternator is showing 9 volts when the vehicle is running and 0 when it is off. There is 1.6 ohms of resistance between the B+ terminal on the battery and the respective terminal on the alternator. There is 0.3 ohms of resistance between the B- battery terminal and the case of the alternator. My task for tomorrow is to trace the exciter wire back to the cluster and try to troubleshoot it there.
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I have a 2004 Big X. Original alternator was replaced as it only was producing 9 volts under a load. Replacement alternator failed within a day. Did I just get a bad re-manufactured one or would something else cause failure?
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I had to replace my alternator (single unit) and after installation it seems only 1 of the 2 batteries is charging when I check them while the truck is running. What check or could be the problem?
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I got my Alternator replaced last week. Last night, I hit a very small bump, not even large enough to really cause me to slow down, and as soon as I did, my battery and brake lights came on. My RPM gauge also jumped around and eventually went to 0 until I stopped and put the car in park. (The bump might just be a coincidence who knows). So after all this happened, I turned off my car, tried to restart and got nothing. Sometimes I get a click, sometimes 2 clicks up to 4-6 consecutive clicks. Every few times I won't even get a click, just a slight attempt to start, then the car dies, then 2 seconds later all my lights and radio etc. come back on. My problem here is a few things:
1. I've been told it could be the starter. If it's the start, those dashboard lights shouldn't have came on right? just the STARTING portion of the car.
2. I've been told it could be the battery.
Well If i got my alternator tested and Advance said it was working, Why would my battery be dead? And if it WAS dead, wouldn't my lights have went dim or something else happen to the car?
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I was working on the car today and had the battery disconnected. When I was driving the car a few hours later i noticed my horn stopped working. the alarm sound when the car is locked stopped working too. I was hoping it would start working again like the one-touch windows do, but they didn't.... I think I possible popped a fuse but didn't see any when i checked. I really don't want to drive 60 miles tomorrow on i95 without a horn.
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I have a 2002 ford taurus with a basic 3.0 v6 . The alternator stopped charging the battery.
New alternator
New battery
New pcm
Still nothing, this has been causing me the biggest headache. Alternator is pcm controlled btw...
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A couple months ago my Key Fob stopped working. I tried using the button and then tried to use the key to unlock the door. I'm trying to figure out if there is a possibility that the immobilizer in my fob is junk or maybe its something as easy as changing the battery (which is another issue in itself because I cant open the fob for the life of me) Once again just curious if there is something I can do to fix this issue without contacting and dealing with the dealership. Would like to be able to lock my car again at some point.
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A few months ago I'm key fobs stopes working the I switched out the batteries and still no progress. What it could be?
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So, I was driving down the road one day at like 50mph or so and had the loudest backfire I've ever heard. As I was putting my car on the dolly to tow home I heard a bunch of rattling and thought maybe it was a rod bearing or something. I pulled the oil pan and found chunks of my upper chain guide (rod bearings were fine).
I replaced the chain guide and checked the timing hoping it would fix the problem, but it didn't. The rattling was gone but I was only running on 3 cylinders. Did a compression check and had 0 compression in Cyl5 and about 60-70 in Cyl2. I don't remember exactly what the compression was for the other cylinders since it was a while ago.
Started thinking it was bent valves, so I just recently pulled the head off to check them. They all looked like they were seating properly and none looked bent from what I could tell. I'm about to try to put some compressed air through it to see if the valves are leaking anywhere. the plugs, wires, and coilpack are all functioning properly.
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The reverse light has stopped working on my MKIV TDi. Done all the usual things I can like bulbs/fuses.
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The issue I am now experiencing is my passenger headlight would only turn on once in a while . The driver side headlight would work just fine both high beam light also . Today I opened my hood I verified the cable had a poor ground to the headlight I noticed a burnt smell after checking the cables . I turned on my high beams both sides turn on . Then out of no where my turn signals both (Left - right - back and front stopped working. Including the Hazard lights both front and back). The cluster would not show neither turn signals turning on ( left-right ) I noticed that my headlight turn signal on the passenger side would turn on but not blink it would stay dim only when . I pushed the hazard light button . My cluster would show the right turn signal ( no clicking no flashing arrow ). The driver side would not work either. What can I do to fix the problem? I know that I will not be able to drive the car due to the issue.
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So I just got a 2002 1.8t, everything was fine until the fans and ac stopped working. After poking around the forums a bit I changed the following:
1. Fan Control Module. Result: nothing
2. Radiator Cooling Fan Switch Temperature Sensor. Result: nothing.
all fan components have the correct voltage going to them. Fuse 16 for the AC clutch is not blown and has power going to it. The AC compressor has power going to it. The fuses on the battery box have power going to them specifically S180.
My question is what am I missing? is it possible that the fans themselves could be bad? car is not overheating, the after run coolant pump kicks on. But the AC clutch is not spinning nor are the fans. btw AC clutch is not seized up.
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The rear wiper on my wife's 20th stopped working the other day. I checked the fuse and it was fine. I pulled off the rear panel and got to the wiring. I don't have a Bentley so I'm not sure what wire does what. I tested the wires and the far left is a switch 12V and the far right is the ground. The center two didn't show any voltage with or without the wiper on. When should these wire see power? What else should I check?
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My blower motor in my Jetta recently stopped working. When I turn on the blower it works for 10 seconds or so then slows down and dies. Is this a blower motor or resistor problem?
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A few days ago I was driving around. I get back in my car and when i turn it on no air blows and the radiator fans aren't working at all. My car hasn't overheated but have stopped driving until I can figure the issue out. I have since replaced the fuse box on top of the battery to no avail. I was thinking that it could possibly be the fan control module but in all the posts I am reading not one says that theirs don't work, they just keep running. So is there something else i should be looking at?
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