Soooo the other day i killed my battery, went to get a jump- and after I was running again, i went to unlock my doors and only my driver side door would unlock via my key fob.
Now, the lock function will lock every door, using my key (in the door) will unlock every door. Hitting the unlock button in my car will unlock every door..... just not from my key fob.
My son has a 99 VW Jetta. His car won't start. We checked the battery and starter. Everything is working - lights, power windows, AC... The remote does not unlock or lock the doors. It has to be done manually (before it did). What may be going on?
View 3 RepliesToday at lunch break, I'm able to unlock all doors by double-clicking the unlock button on the remote. No more than 4-5 hours later, the remote only unlocks the driver door; it no longer unlocks the passenger or 2 rear doors; car is a 2001.5 Passat. I'm also still able to pop the trunk. Just for the heck of it, I tried my other remote, and I get the same results.
View 5 RepliesAre there any settings within the Vag-com to automatically unlock the doors when you shut the car off? They automatically lock, so surely you can make them unlock?
View 3 RepliesThe remote locks on my 2000 Jetta GLX have been working intermittently for almost a year. I had been using the manual key to lock/unlock until finally the manual lock alarm disarm also became intermittent and I found myself stuck at a truck rest stop at 1:30 a.m. with my alarm repeatedly howling into the night and no way to disarm it. I felt caught. I felt trapped. Like I was found guilty of a crime I had never committed. I knew then - I had work to do.
My research in the forums indicated that the door lock assembly was a common culprit - a gremlin, often leaving headaches as it's only calling card. I worked quick, pulling a driver's side door lock assembly out of 2003 at the local junkyard and replacing it no problem. To my surprise, although this DID fix the manual locking/unlocking/alarm disarming problem, it DID NOT fix the remote unlock problem. The culprit was still at large.
Business as usual with intermittent remote unlocking/locking/trunk-popping for weeks until my dash threw the "AIR BAG FAULT" light. I decided to question a local garage owner who's VAGCOM told me that it was caused by something on the driver's side door. He was busy, but it reset fine and I was on my way. I know now that I should have asked for the code then but I was caught in the beauty of a girl who only nails polish was the grease and dirt of the car she worked under. And about a mile down the road, the light came back on.
Now, the "AIR BAG FAULT" light is on as soon as I start the car. However, the time seems to vary slightly before the Jetta beeps and tells me in faded red letters "AIR BAG FAULT". Sometimes right when I leave my driveway, sometimes not before I drive a mile or two down the road. My remote unlock is still working intermittently.
I need both my airbag fault and the remote unlock fixed. I'm wondering if these two problems are related? Like maybe there's a loose connection that is causing the airbag sensor to short and it's beeping when it bumps out of place and maybe the intermittent remotes are being caused by slamming of my driver's side door too hard & it's losing a connection as well. I tried putting a little conductivity jelly in the female clip that goes to the window regulator motor because I heard that the airbag sensor is in there somewhere but it didn't make a difference.
I have a 2014 Lexus IS 250 that is only 10 months old and my key FOB isn't unlocking the doors. I've tried using both keys. I don't think the batteries are dead since the power light still works on both keys, and they are not even a year old. Not to mention it would be very coincidental that both keys would die at the same exact time.
I need to get to work but don't want to get there and not be able to lock my car.
My daughter picked up an 08 Base, option package #1 yesterday. It has 166K miles and checked out okay by me (coolant moving by inverter pump, no signs of water in spare tire well...etc.). The car only had 1 key fob (non-SKS) wit no spare key or fob. The key is uncut but the remote starts and runs the car. The remote will not lock or unlock the doors.
The first thing I did was replace the CR2032 battery with no change. It still operated the car but not the locks. I noticed that the little red light wasn't coming on when pushing the buttons and found the red panic button was stuck. Took care of that and thought all was good until I tried to lock and unlock the doors again. Nope! Light comes on, works in slot to start the car, but not the locks.
Last night, my son went to grab something out of the car so I dont know what he did but when my wife went to use the car, all the doors were locked. The headlights were on. The car was not running.
We were unable to unlock the doors with either remote. I believe it would beep 3 times but wouldn't unlock. I had to use the key built into the remote to get the doors unlocked.
My first question is, if it's possible to switch the beep-sound on, when locking or unlocking my doors by the remote. I think in the US its common to hear a sound when locking. Here in Austria it's forbidden (noice level), but I want to have that sound. Is it possible to engage it? Or is there something missing in my 2002 Camry?
View 2 RepliesWeird situation. Both remotes seem to be acting up. Especially in the mornings, they will not chime or unlock the doors. The red light flashes on the remote, but nothing happens. I open the door via the key blade insertion into door hole.
Sometimes if I slam the door, it starts working again. Not sure if just coincidence or not.
I changed the remote batteries. But even still, seems odd that it would be the remotes if both are doing the same thing.
I happened to read the following passage on page 37 of the owners manual discussing usage of the wireless remote control:
To Unlock: Push the unlock switch once to unlock the driver's door alone. Pushing the switch twice within 3 seconds unlocks all the doors simultaneously ... This double switch operation to unlock all the side doors and back door can be changed to a single switch operation. For details, contact your Toyota dealer.Click to expand...
(Note that this is different than the "smart unlocking" operations discussed on page 32.)
I'm interested in having all the doors unlock with just a single press of the remote unlock button. How to achieve this setting?
I've owned my F for almost a year now and in the year I've owned it I've have three times where the doors won't open using the handle or remote to unlock the door.
The only way I've been able to gain access inside is to roll the windows down using the remote control, then open the door handle from the inside.
Every once in awhile when I'm on the freeway, the hazard lights will flash and the doors will lock and unlock for about 3 seconds then stop.
The car is running normally other than this, except that the doors have stopped locking with the fob or the key itself. It is a 2001 2.0L L4 SOHC 8V.
Strange problem. 2006 4 door Camry. Only the drivers door unlocks when using remote or the unlock button on the door panel. The three other door have to unlocked manually. All 4 doors lock with the remote or the button on the drivers door normally. Not sure if this is a door switch problem or a remote problems or how to further isolate this?
View 8 RepliesHow to shut off the feature that cuts car off when you unlock doors after using your remote start?
View 14 Replies'13 Accord Sport4k miles
These frigid WI temps are horrible. I did end up washing my car last weekend because it was full of salt. This morning I pressed the lock on my remote 2 times, nothing happened. Normally the horn sounds off once and the lights flash. I seen the lights flash, but there was no sound coming from the horn..........frozen locks? I came home after work and tried it again. Works fine now.
2004 Echo........
When I use my key to unlock the car door, I can turn the key and get all the dash lights but I don't hear a sound.
When I use the remote unlock, and try the same thing, my car starts. Is this a problem with the security system?
Remotes suddenly will not lock/unlock doors or open trunk.Background - guy left key in ignition in 'on' position overnight. Also thunderstorm with very near lightning strike during that time.Battery dead in am, though after jump start it was not necessary to reset radio, clock, etc.Neither remote works.Checked the door lock fuse - looks OK, but did not replace it as there were no spares in the spare slots.Where else to look for the problem?
View 2 RepliesRandomly, the remote keyless entry system of my 2009 Jeep Wrangler will fail to unlock the doors. When this happens and I then use the key in the door the alarm goes off. As soon as I insert the key in the ignition the alarm will deactivate (as it should). After the first few times I took it to the dealer and a computer was replaced. It kept happening. I took it back to the dealer and now they claim that it is normal! If I use the key to unlock the doors otherwise, no alarm. So, why the periodic failure?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 passat that i have had for about 2 months. recently, about 2 weeks ago, i started having problems with the remote unlock feature. it will unlock the driver side door fine, but when i press the unlock button twice, the driver side lock makes a noise but the other three doors remain locked. when i press the unlock toggle on the driver side controls with the window controls, all the doors unlock fine. i have two remotes, one is pretty new and i just got it programmed (within a month) and neither one will unlock all the doors.all the other functions of the remote work fine.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2005 excursion with about 112,000 miles and last week all 5 doors decided to stop working on me when trying to lock or unlock with the remote or the door switch. I do hear a sound like something is happening just right of the fuse box. I did a little research and found that this is a wide spread problem. I did order 4 of the 5 actuators and I replaced the drivers door but nothing yet. Do they all have to be replaced in order to work? Or is it most likely something else causing this? Just trying to figure it out before I install the other actuators or take it in to a shop.
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