Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Rear Passenger Side Wheel Wasn't Spinning
Dec 16, 2015
Upon putting on my winter wheel i was checking if the bolts were too long and my rear passenger side wheel wasn't spinning. I took the wheel off and checked the rotor and it took a lot of force to spin because the caliper didn't go back. I took the brake fluid line out hoping it would decompress the caliper and it did not, and brake fluid leaked out a tiny bit. This leads me to believe that my caliper is bad. Just want to make sure before I order another one
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I have a creaking in the rear passenger side wheel area. Checked the anti sway bar that was not the problem I have no clue what it could be.
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So I just jacked up my car to check out how bad the bushings are on the control arms and the tire rod. They're bad. So I'm going to get the suspension stage 1 refresh kit from ECS.
Well I went to spin the passenger side wheel and I noticed that I can tilt it back and forth slightly, I checked the other side and couldn't do the same thing. I just got both wheel bearings replaced by a shop and I'm hoping its not the hub. This is just a CV joint or bushings or if it's actually the hub???
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So I just installed brand new coilovers and I quickly noticed a this problem. On the passenger side, when the wheel is lifted, I can feel a little bit of movement from the coilover and it really seems like it is the top bushing that is moving. I can see the metal top plate moving a little also. Everything is we tighten andI did the same thing as the driver's side but only this one does this. When the car is on the ground I can feel there is a bit of play in the wheel if I bang on it with my hand. Also, I know the gap on the top plates is normal, specially when lowered but again the passenger side looks weird and is much higher then the other side. What I'm I missing here ? Both side top bushing and bearing are also brand new.
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I've been getting it when reversing and it seems to be coming from the rear passenger side wheel. To me it sounds like two metals tapping. I feel like it might be the spring, but I just want a second opinion.
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There is a knocking sound in the rear passenger side area. Cannot diagnose the cause, what it could be. I checked the bushings for the anti sway Bar but that was not it.
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It's a 2002 Pt Cruiser. I think it's the ball bearing but I don't really know. Car got stuck in some snow a few days ago and we were unable to get it out even after digging it out from the snow.. Seemed like the right tire wasn't spinning or gripping. We got someone to pull us out and it's driving fine, no problems but when I try to drive up our driveway that has a slight hill, it is having troubles and barely makes it up and seems like the right tire is vibrating and not spinning properly. There is no humming noise. Just a vibrating when trying to drive up my icy muddy driveway. Could this be something else besides a bearing? I'll be making an appt with my mechanic tomorrow but typically it's a one week wait to see him and I have to work this week so can't just not drive it.
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I own a 2000 Jetta GLS TDI 5 speed with 501,000 kms on it. The problem I have is the passenger seat back release handle broke off so there is no way to fold down the seat.
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I put some 10mm hubcentric spacers from Avenue Autosport on the front of my car and got some slight vibration like the wheel wasn't centered very well. I decided to take them off to make sure they were the source of the vibration, and the car seems to ride a bit better/smoother in general without them (and the vibration when away).
I noticed that they didn't fit as tightly as my 15mm ECS spacers that I have in the rear, and my question is: are these spacers crappy in some way and I should order 10mm spacers from ECS, or are spacers in general not a great idea for the front wheels if you want your car to feel perfectly smooth and tight.
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So I was driving just a second ago, stopped to get something and where I was parked I had to leave my hazards running. I had them on for a minute at most and when I got back in the hazard button was smoking. I turned it off and blew in the gap as much as possible.
The smoking stopped. Now neither my hazards or blinkers work. I haven't had a chance to check fuses yet. Wanted to see what people thought or if they'd had similar experience ASAP. Will update with finding when I can.
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The 4 wheel drive on my Ford Ranger goes out all the time. Today it stopped working in 14" of new snow, and when I was stuck in my driveway in PARK, my rear right wheel was still spinning? What might this mean?
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So I just replaced my oil pump and i am reassembling my front end and I just cant get my passenger side engine mount bolt to stop spinning so i can get the nut on (the mount underneath the car) , I have no clue how to stop the spinning
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Well my a/c stopped blowing cold last week so I took it to an a/c shop and they said it was really low on freon. The guy recharged it and we noticed the driver side fan wasn't turning on. Said that it was causing to much pressure and it was blessing it off causing the loss of freon. So I came home and put it on the lift to check out the fans. I unplugged the fans from the bottom side below the fcm and the pass side fan comes on with a 12v source but when I put power to the other plug (drivers side fan) there's nothing across the high or low side. Guessing the fan is toast right? Just making sure before I order a new fan. What's all involved in replacing the fan? Also I've read the vw fans have a resistor that are known for burning out. Should I go with oem or a different brand from ecs?
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I have a '96 Windstar, 3.8L base model.
I've notice a bumping around, rattle type noise in the wheel well or below the adjacent floor at the right rear tire. I'm still looking into the cause at this point.
The "tracking bar" was replaced last year, and is firm and tight. The rear exhaust pipe was also replaced last year, and I've checked that it might be "tapping" on the body of the van by checking it's range of movement.
The shocks are relatively new (<50,000 miles)...
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I have been noticing some kind of a oil/water mix wet spot on the floor every where i park. It looks like some thing is leaking near rear passenger wheel, close to struts. I have a 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe SE with 19K miles....
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Got home from work last night, passengers side rear wheel was smoking, and damn hot to the touch. Drivers side rear was hot, but not as bad as passenger's side.
My first thought was worst case sceneries - wheel bearings. After getting it in the air, in neutral, I can turn the wheels, but, it takes a lot of effort. There's no grinding noises, but, it sounds like a brake is in constant contact.
I'm in the process of taking both wheels off, but, I'm leaning towards either the brakes/calipers or the ebrake dragging. It definitely smells like hot brakes, and not diff fluid.
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I Have had my 99.5 jetta for 4 years now, car drives straight, no tire wear issues, but from day one I have noticed by looking in the wheel wells of both rear tires that the r/s rear is set back further than the l/s rear, l/s rear looks centered in the wheel wheel and the r/s rear looks to be back further and not centered, no evidence of any rear damage from a previous owner, car drives straight as an arrow , I'm stumped, all four tires have worn even in the past 3 years.
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I was under my car the other day and i noticed this dent in the rear of the subframe, just in front of the passenger side rear wheel. I didn't see damage anywhere else. Is this something I should be concerned about?
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I recently had my 20k mile service done which included a tire rotation. Perhaps my understanding of a tire rotation is incorrect but I noticed the rear passenger side wheel was moved to the front passenger side. If the tires were left on the original rims as is, that means it was simply moved from the rear to the front. Is this right? The reason I noticed this is because I have a little curb rash on my rear passenger side rim which now is up front.
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My passsenger side rear wheel hub assembly needs replacing and I am having trouble removing it. I have removed the rotor, the 4 bolts holding the hub, applied generous amounts of pb blaster, and struck it vigorously with a 3 pound hammer. Also, how to release the abs connection.
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I need to replace one wheel stud on the passenger side rear. Read an old post that said jack up the car remove wheel spay the stud you need to knock out with WD 40 or PB Blaster. Wait 10 minutes smack it with a small sledge hammer and out it comes. Now I have done that on some older classics but is it that simple on the SC. I have not really jacked it up to give it a good inspection, but I would think you may need to remove the rear rotor and maybe the back cover I saw when I took a quick look under the car.
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