Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Rear Right Window Won't Go Up - Grinding Noise Inside But No Movement When Press The Switch
Mar 14, 2015
I have a problem with my golf 4 window. RR after washing it the window wouldn't go up again it just made a grinding noise inside but no movement when you press the switch, I watched a few videos on how to open the panel and I did and found this wire lying around like this I don't know what to do from here as the car must go for a test for registration and they check the windows. do i need to buy the entire back panel?
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Just noticed this morning that when I move slowly there is a noise consistent with the cars movement in the rear right side of the car. What could be causing this back there? Almost sound like if the car was moving while the brake was engaged.
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This just started on me not even an hour ago. I hit my switch and the window will go down all the way and the motor will continue running making a grinding noise until I hit the switch again. Same as when it goes up all the way. It stops at halfway and makes the grinding noise until I release and press the switch up again. Is this just the motor teeth going bad or are the cables getting frayed out possibly? Haven't had time to tear down and inspect yet.
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Just picked up my 2012 2dr. GTI. My first wash and I noticed the left rear stationary window leaking from the inside. ( not impressed ). It is going back to be fixed under warranty but wonder if the seal and window are one or two piece and what is involved in this repair? Hopefully the person doing it has done it before and not using a tube of silicone to repair it. What to expect for a proper repair.
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I've tried to search for fixes but nothing comprehensive works. The problem is that the auto window movement going up will stop halfway and lower a few inches so that it is about a quarter from being fully rolled down. Now, i've managed to get it back all the way up but I'd have to hold the up button. the auto roll is very picky and only works perfectly 50/50. I've tried to reteach the window settings and that does not work either.
The car only has about 1200 miles on it, and no moisture has ever gotten in. seeing as how people have complained about it before but not able to find a conclusive fix, should i just make time to see the dealership and have warranty cover it?
Here is a video I've found of the exact same behavior: [URL] .....
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My 2003 Jetta GLS 1.8T just started doing this... I am not hearing the normal Turbo whistling noise when I give it a lot of gas, however I now hear a squealing noise. Sounds similar to a loose belt kinda whining/squealing. I do not hear this at any other time, only when accelerating quickly.
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My MK4 golf has the rear passenger door shut, cannot be opened from inside or out. The outside handle has no tension, just floppy.
I managed to take the card off, even though I cannot open the door.
So my issue is if I keep dismantling til I get to the door lock, is there any simple way to open the door ? I've seen lots where people can change the lock if the door opens but can it be opened if the door is closed or do I somehow have to smash the lock ?
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So its been about 2 months since this grinding sound started whenever Im going under 40km/h on my Mk IV Jetta.
Brake pads/rotors that is causing this or something else?
There is a metal/rubber friction smell when I park and get out of the car... It also drifts to the right a little and the alignment was done about 6months ago. I'm guessing its related to the rear breaks or I could be wrong?
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Rear wiper stays on regardless of switch position. It runs as if the switch was on - intermittently. No critters chewing, Stops with the fuse pulled. We get lots of snow and I need it, rain-x won't cut it. It has 80k on the clock and everything works perfectly. the wiper homes between runs. Disconnected the battery for 5 mins for fun. Is this switch prone to this kind of failure?
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I'm suspecting that my motor mounts are going bad, but I'm not 100% sure. I have a video of the engine movement when slipping the clutch and revving the engine with the e-brake on. [URL]............................... I don't need high performance ones, but don't want to spend a ton on OEM ones either.
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OK so my 02m goes into to all gears but when I try to take off it makes a grinding noise and kinda feels like it wants to start hoping. The car set for about 2 weeks and didn't have a problem with this at all. I can also shift the car into gear when started and not push the clutch in.
Car has a fx400 clutch with billet flywheelsl
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So I have the well known starter grinding noise since I bought the car six months ago. Is there really any danger to the flywheel or the starter itself not fixing this? I don't mean from a purist point of view, of course it's not good. I don't really care about the noise. Does it maybe 1 out of 3 starts in the cold. Are things really getting chewed up, or it's really no big deal.
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I have a 2009 Hyundai sonata, 2.4, 5 speed manual, gls, when I press down on clutch whether from a stop or when shifting, I get a loud grinding noise and the radio goes dead at same time!, I know it is the starter attempting to "engage", at least that's what I believe it to be, it also "'starts "from, the "on " position when I press on clutch.
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Long story..couple months ago while coming home my 08 Sonata 2.4L manual 84,000 miles...started making this grinding noise and would stop when I pressed the clutch in and then sounded like something was grinding near the passenger front wheel.. well I get it home and the next morning my husband and I ride up the road so he can hear it.. was going to take it to the shop but it stopped and ran just fine till the other day.. crank the car and its fine.. once it gets warmed up and a few miles down the road it makes a knocking noise...but only when I let off the gas or idling .. even pressing on the gas just a tiny bit made it stop (even tried in while parked in the driveway with the hood up to make sure the engine wasn't just drowning it out) well I took it to the local dealership today and they said it was the flywheel and that it and the clutch and bearing needed to be replaced..
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I've noticed recently that on startup I'll hear a minor grinding noise after the engine has kicked over. Seems to happen more when the car is really cold.
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2000 GTI MK4 200,000 miles
I have had a grinding noise during engine start up for a few month but had no problem is engine starting up so left the grinding noise problem untouched.
About two days ago both lowbeam headlights blew up and left signal blinker on headlight lamp cluster didn't turn on while rear left blinker blinked at twice faster speed. At the same time I began to have starter motor stall while starting up the engine!
Wonder if this is a problem involving solenoid as well.
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Have had this grinding noise going on with my 2001 gti GLS 1.8t, the cam chain tensioner has been replaced recently. Would really like to get this solved and fixed, car has 81k miles.
Found this video on youtube, same model and exact same noise as mine : [URL] ,,,,
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Car Spec : VW Golf IV 1.6 SR 1998
Problem : I have a strange grinding noise coming from the front of the car. I can only hear it if all the windows are shut. The noise starts when the car starts moving, Doesn't matter if its in neutral or not, clutch pressed or depressed. The noise is there even if I switch off the engine whilst the car is still moving. It goes away when the car stops.
Yesterday I noticed that if I move the gear stick from left to right OR right to left in the neutral position (while the car is still moving), the noise increases!! What could be the potential problem? is it related to transmission? brakes? or wheel bearings?
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My car will start the first time just fine but if I turn it off it won't start anymore it won't even attempt to crank ...
It does have a nasty grind noise before it starts tho idk if that could be related to it or not ...
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I am hearing a squeaking noise by my right rear quarter panel inside the cabin. How to safely remove the panel. I tried searching but the instructions were vague.
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So I just installed brand new coilovers and I quickly noticed a this problem. On the passenger side, when the wheel is lifted, I can feel a little bit of movement from the coilover and it really seems like it is the top bushing that is moving. I can see the metal top plate moving a little also. Everything is we tighten andI did the same thing as the driver's side but only this one does this. When the car is on the ground I can feel there is a bit of play in the wheel if I bang on it with my hand. Also, I know the gap on the top plates is normal, specially when lowered but again the passenger side looks weird and is much higher then the other side. What I'm I missing here ? Both side top bushing and bearing are also brand new.
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