I have a 2003 Jetta Gli , 24v vr6 with a 6 speed transmission.
Well this all started last night, started to drive, when accelerating , around 3k RPM I start to hear a rattle or grind. This only happens around 3k while accelerating. Once letting off the gas or pushing the clutch in, it goes away. Sometimes after 3k it'll go away.
It happens mostly after the engine warms up. When I accelerate, I hear a weird cranking noise coming from under the hood (sometimes it doesn't happen). I popped the hood to see if there was anything wrong, but i didn't find anything major (there were 3 loose screws that I tightened because I thought they were causing the vibration but the noise persisted).
I doesn't make the sound when I rev the engine, only when I am was driving. It happens roughly between 1500 and 3000 RPM. I read some of the archives to get a few ideas, but the noises people are describing are not like the one I am hearing from my car. The closest thing I found this: [URL] ....
I made a video. You'll hear the noise the loudest when I first start pressing the gas, from a complete stop: [URL] ...
Recently bought a 1999.5 vr6 jetta and noticed that it will randomly grind going from 1st to 2nd gear (its a manual). It seems really erratic, it will do it at any rpms and at completely random times.
It only does it when shifting up, not downshifting. I can also go 50 times or more shifting into 2nd without it happening or it can happen 5 times in a row. Not sure what do here...
I've been working on my car for a few weeks now and I've been doing my best to figure out. The source of this sort of 'metallic grinding' that I'm hearing within the cabin. I cant seem to pinpoint where it's coming from within the engine bay with the hood open (maybe due to the magnaflow exhaust diffusing the sound from the outside of my car). I can easily hear noise when I'm inside however with indications its coming from the lower central area of the engine bay. I drive an '04 Volkwagen GTI 1.8T
In the days I've been working on it I've replaced the:
1. Timing Belt (and tensioner pulley/tensioner dampener)
2. Water Pump
3. Serpentine Belt
4. Thermostat (and housing)
5. Clutch disk and flywheel (from a SMF to a LUK DMF clutch)
6. CV Axles (both drivers and passengers)
7. Clutch Cylinder Slave
8. Wheel Bearings (front left and right)
9. Rotors (Front Left and Right)
Diagnosis**
The car starts without any problems just as it use to prior to the replacements done. BUT it's once I get the car moving where I begin accelerating I start to hear a dull grinding noise/rumble that becomes more and more apparent the faster I go. It seems the sound is directly correspondent to wheel movement upon accelerating. Nevertheless I could be wrong.
I had a friend tag along to diagnose the sound and to him it sounded similar to the "tunneling of air not being properly sealed" but to me it sounds like a metallic grind. My friend also mentioned that he felt it was louder towards the passenger side in contrast to the drivers. As mentioned before the sound is reproduced anytime wheel movement occurs. I've checked torque spec for every replacement job done to the car so there are no loose bolts/nuts/brackets. (but there are exceptions, which I will get to).
Knowing that I've replaced both of the wheel bearings (and hub assembly) I can only assume the sources isn't from there. But I do admit a few mistakes while I had the car on jacks.
1. During the timing belt replacement I thought I would need to remove the exhaust (because I felt it would interfere with the lowering of the engine) so I, (without success), tried to remove the connection between the "bend of the exhaust" to the manifold which were 4 'turbo studs'. I had the worst time with the removal of studs but I was able to impact one them off, and as I tried another the strength of the impact broke one them half way through (meaning that I was able to unthread it a few threads but it snapped in the process, so I would need to somehow drill it out in order to replace it). This is where I gave up and did my best to install the one I had removed. Which I could only get threaded half of the way in.
-All in all I have 1 broken stud that still making a connection, and 1 protruding stud out of the 4 that connects the exhaust to the manifold.
Question: Can this be the cause of the sound? Without the full connection of 4 studs bolting exhaust to the manifold? Can this be the sound That my friend was referring to as the "tunneling air not being properly sealed"?
2. The second "mistake" isn't necessarily a mistake but a fault I found later that has to do with the Passenger CV Axle. I read a few forums here and read that it could be a problem with the axles, so I put the front end on jacks once again and found that there was a bit of movement of play on the axle shaft itself. In detail, the 2 connection points for the axle both at the Output differential flange and Hub assembly are secure and torqued to spec without any loose bolts.
BUT the rod itself seems to shift about a 1/2" between these two connecting points.
Question: Could THIS be the problem? With this type of 1/2" shift in the rod is it possible it can recreate the dull metallic grinding I'm hearing so much?
I noticed through careful investigation that my 03 GTI 1.8T (180,000 KM's or 111,850 miles) will grind 3rd when in these conditions:
1. When the car has been driving for more then half an hour and everything is hot
2. When the car is over 2800 RPM's while hot (ie. getting on a highway)
Now I know lot's of people blame syncro's and yes I could see that my car has had 8 previous owners so I can't say they all shifted perfect. But what I do know is that when I downshift from either 4th or Neutral it will never grind even when I don't Rev Match or "Blip" the throttle. So it can't be syncro's in my opinion.
So what I've done to the car to rule out some problems were:
- Change the gear oil from what ever it was before to Royal Purple 75W-90 (NO luck.)
- Then I added a short shifter and adjusted my cables properly (still No luck)
- Finally I noticed my shifter was sloppy and one of my bushings were torn so I bought 42 DD's metal bushings and the shifter did stiffen up a lot, however!!! (No luck)
I know it's not my driving technique because I watch my foot depress the clutch fully and then I gently push it into third. I also know I'm shifting correctly because I can double clutch and normally shift through every other gear properly without any grinds or clunks. Just the devilish 3rd gear.
I would like to hear the solution. I'm going to change the oil one more time to Redline MT-90 and see how that goes, but if that doesn't work I might just tear apart or get a new tranny.
I have had my 2010 Tiguan SE for about a month now and I have noticed a sound when it shifts that sounds like a tinny grind or rattle. This happens mostly in "D" not "S" mode and at the lower RPMs. Is it normal?
I took it to my dealer and of course they said they heard nothing, but it doesn't seem like something a new car should sound like.
I'm sure this has been brought up before. Whats the rattle you hear when accelerating hard when the transmission shifts? Exhaust note, exhaust hardware, dsg transmission, engine sound?
View 8 RepliesI'm up to 102k on my 2007 Azera Ltd. In the last two weeks I started getting a grinding/rattle type noise when I turn my AC/Fan up to the higher levels. When it's on low/mid you can't hear anything. Does this mean the compressor is starting to go or is this something else going on?
View 5 RepliesStarting somewhere in the course of a 400 mile drive yesterday, my car developed a new sound. It sounds like something is either vibrating against something else or some little chunk of plastic is bouncing around in the engine somewhere. At first I thought it was a piece of the bumper or trim dragging on the road, but it's not. You hear it when the car starts, when the car gets gas, and even when the engine is idling. It's not a constant sound, but it's there more often then it is not. It's there at high and low speeds. It's there whether the engine is warm or dead cold. To my untrained eye, there's nothing out of order when I look under the hood. It doesn't seem to impact performance (yet!).
I'm attaching a link to a video of me taking a drive around the block this morning: [URL] ....
2010 Toyota Matrix with 72k miles....
When my car is at idle or cruising the AC works well. When I'm driving normally from stop light to stop light the AC gets warm.
I did have the pressures checked and they topped off the refrigerant. They also said the compressor is working well. I had all this checked before it started getting warm during accelerating.
Are there some things that I can look at?
I have a VW golf 2.0L AEG with 5 speed manual with 150,000 miles. Lately, it has been hesitating when I accelerate, not all the time but intermittently. It also shakes when I downshift, especially in lower gears. I have replaced the dog bone, the spark plugs, fuel filter, clean the MAF and tried another ignition coil. Nothing really worked. The only that worked a little (like a day) is when I disconnected the MAF sensor. I tried to do it again without much success. I scanned the car with VAG COM and I have no code.
The original clutch and original fuel pump are on the car. I checked the timing belt and it is in good shape. I was thinking that I may need a new clutch but I don't have nay slipping, just the vibrations when I downshift. I thought maybe the motor mounts are bad but I don't see excessive play when I rev up the engine. I sprayed the spark plug wires and ignition coil with water without any issues. What I should do next? Motor mounts or clutch? Bring it to VW for diagnosis?
So I recently swapped my 2.8l 12v vr6 for the same engine because mine blew up, everything went good and the car runs great but there is a faint kind of rattling sound coming from the top of my motor, when its idling it will be a constant faint rattle. It gets worse as i accelerate between 3 to 4.5 rpms but then stops making the noise when i really start cooking so Idk if I just can't hear it or what. I've tried looking it up but i can't seem to find a video that has the same problems as my car. My father told me it could be my rockers or valves and others have told me it could be my timing chain or guides. I would love to just take it to vw to get it diagnosed but I don't have the money. I will try and upload a video of the sound ....
View 7 RepliesHave a sunroof that rattles when closed while going over bumps? I use my fingers to lift up on it and its barely budging, also floors are soaked....
View 3 RepliesThe rattle, 1.8t GLI
-2500-3000 RPM
-Car can be in gear or out of gear, rev rattle is the same.
-Sometimes, I can hear the rattle when the car is off and I slam the door slightly harder than usual.
-My hood release cable may have been the culprit, but I could only zip-tie part of it and the rattle hasn't changed.
One really important clue is that when I have reached around the area between my engine and airbox, the rattle has gone away. So I had a bad coolant flange, so when reaching my phone down there to take pictures, I must have bumped or pressed something because the noise was gone for about a mile.
I recently had my airbox out and a visual inspection didn't show any promise and tapping on random parts didn't recreate the sound.
There is am RPM rattle near my airbox....
Ever since I got my 3" TB installed I've noticed it rattles on the rear beam. I have tried wrapping the beam with exhaust wrap but it lasts for few days. What could I do to fix it?
View 11 RepliesSo I recently lower my car and my 3" exhaust started a constant rattle when I'm in the car. When I get out it stops. Been lowered for a week or so now and today was the first time that happened. I've read up and seen its pretty common when we go lower. Also some ways to possibly fix it.
View 16 RepliesI bought a cheap golf in february. It's an akl engine (1.6sr). Everything was fine on the way home. The car then wasn't used for like a month or two, and was stored outside. When we started using the car it gradually got more and more stuttering. At first it was just a slight stutter when accelerating, but now it's horrible. It will stutter and hesitate like crazy when accelerating or under load, but will cruise just fine at normal rpms. So far I have changed the air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs and a bad spark plug wire, but nothing has worked. I bought a vag scanner but couldn't find any codes. The idle isn't too bad but not perfect. What the problem can be?
View 10 RepliesClunking happening when accelerating and braking, but is not noticeable if I shift without too much kick between 1st and 2nd. Clunking is heard right under my feet and sounds like its dead center in the car. Some slight metal scraping sound can be heard like a bolt is loose (none found).
Replaced: Tie rod assembly, both axles, doggone mount, struts, strut mounts, strut bearings, sway bar bushings.
. MK IV 1.8T .... Title says it all ....
View 14 Replies2004 Jetta GLI - I am getting a hissing sound when accelerating. Could it be the Turbo?
View 2 RepliesOk, so my 1.8T hasn't really run right in quite a while, it dramatically goes into boost, then sometimes will just backfire and go into soft limp at around 5-6 psi while accelerating.
Specs:
Stock ECU
3" turbo back
TIP
FMIC
Short ram air with K&N
2.0 coils with proper NGK plugs (I cant remember exact name right now)
All evap/SAI and emissions deleted
Coolant ball deleted
Replaced:
- Crankshaft position sensor
- Camshaft position sensor
- MAF (autozone brand )
- Coilpack wire harness
- Swapped between 2 different N75's
- Piston and spring in Forge Splitter
Below is what I pulled with the vagcom cable I just got in the mail today, along with the DTC names I found from Bentley's page. I know the 411 and 441 are from the SAI/Evap delete but other than that what I should replace next?
VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2
Monday, 07 July 2014, 17:30:49.
Chassis Type: 1J - VW Golf/Bora IV
Scan: 01,02,03,08,15,16,17,19,22,29,35,36,37,39,46,47,55 ,56,57,75,76
[Code] ....