Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Rattle Coming From Back Of Engine Near Intake Manifold When Rev A Little
Aug 12, 2014
I have a 01 vr6 mk4 gti. When I bought the car I noticed a rattle but never paid mind to it. But now I just want it fixed. I hear the rattle come from the back of the engine near the intake manifold when I rev it a little. The most rpms the louder the rattle . I been doing some research and came to a conclusion that it could be the shift rod and bad intake bushing. But, I'll like a link on how to replace the shift rod.
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It makes a weird 'fppp' air shooting noise before the exhaust note and my 2003 gti vr6 makes the exact same noise. It sounds like it's coming from the intake manifold valve and not really the filter, but I'm not sure and yes my filter is clean, the noise also sounds a little bit more obnoxious and problematic in real life. What it is, I thought it was a vacuum leak but I don't wanna bring it in till i know exactly what it is,
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I have a small clicking sound coming from my intake manifold. I recently installed a boost gauge and it did it once after that... I shut the car off and I didn't hear again until 1000 miles later and its back, why it would be clicking like this but its annoying
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1999 F-250 LD 5.4... There is a hole on the back of the upper intake manifold, just below the back of the throttle body, is a vacuum hose supposed to be attached here? Have a serious vacuum leak, no coolant loss, no overheating, just had cop's and spark plugs done, now she backfires, stalls and will not stay running, mech. says its an intake gasket but the gasket and lower intake manifold look new.
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So I did the seafoam trick and I came to the conculsion that my exhaust leak is coming from either the manifold or the flex pipe. There was no smoke coming from under the car only a mist of smoking coming up from the back of the engine, probably by the manifold or the flex pipe. I do not see any visible cracking per say. I have attached a picture of the end of the flex pipe and it almost looks like someone may have tried to seal it before? I don't know if that is normal or not as seen in the picture.
2002 Volkswagen Golf 2.0 ...
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I was in the process of troubleshooting a quick to die battery tonight (ignition on and if you put a load on it like radio and headlights, a few minutes later it needs the booster pack. ) During this time I discovered a loud buzzing coming from the top part of the intake manifold (ignition on but engine not running.) As my battery drains, this noises this thing makes change. I started the car up and let it run for a sec, then back off/ignition back on and it stopped buzzing.
On a side note, the car has been idling like dump for the last month or so. Sometimes it's smooth as silk as it always has been when stopped at a light, other times you can feel a rapid vibration in the steering wheel, seats, and floor. To the point where stuff rattles sometimes. It's definitely at its worst when the engine is cold. I was hoping it was worn out plugs, but they've just been replaced and it still doesn't run right.
Linked is a video, hopefully it works. Is this the IAC valve?
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I have a 2003 Camry 4 cyl. around 60,000 miles on odometer and for around 3 months the engine seems to have gotten louder while at idle. At the back of the engine around the plastic intake manifold area the engine is making a light banging / tapping noise. It never made this noise before. The engine idles fine and the drives normally. I always keep an eye on the fluid levels and they are up to par. I'm not sure what is going on and if I should just keep an eye on it. I have provided a link below to a video of the noise. The noise can be heard best starting around 15 seconds into the video and fades away around 26 seconds into the video. [URL] ....
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I have a 2003 Camry 4 cyl. around 60,000 miles on odometer and for around 3 months the engine seems to have gotten louder while at idle. At the back of the engine around the plastic intake manifold area the engine is making a light banging / tapping noise. It never made this noise before. The engine idles fine and the car drives normally.
I always keep an eye on the fluid levels and they are up to par. I'm not sure what is going on and if I should just keep an eye on it. I have provided a link below to a video of the noise. The noise can be heard best starting around 15 seconds into the video and fades away around 26 seconds into the video. [URL] .....
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Is it normal to have this rattle noise that is coming from the CAI which i never noticed before? This only happened after installing a turbo back and car runs fine. It just sounded like marble got sucked in the intake or 2 thick plates banging. I am pretty sure its not the heat shield for the filter also because i tried holding that and looked at that part. Went under the car too but i cant pinpoint where its coming from but maybe inside the engine?
[URL] ....
I also got a pronounce rattling at 2000 rpm when I let go of the gas that's located maybe at the bottom passenger side. I am thinking fuel lines?
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One of the nozzles on the back of my intake manifold broke off. I don't know how to better explain it. The ones the back of the manifold closest to the firewall there are several hoses that hook to the manifold. The second one from the left broke.
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I'm having a problem with the intake manifold shifter not working on my r32. I've tried all of the normal fixes, the shifter rod itself and the vacuum diaphragm that opens it are both functioning correctly, all of the vacuum lines are new and not leaking. Connecting vacuum directly to the diaphragm causes the shifter to immediately open. I've tried 3 different solenoids with the same result, all open when 12v is directly applied, but the manifold doesn't open at it's RPM point like it's supposed to. The solenoid sees a constant ~11v under all conditions, regardless of engine RPM. I've traced this wire back to the ECU and confirmed it's not damaged. No CEL other than for the SAI missing.
At this point, I'm assuming whatever circuit that controls this in the ECU is fried (cruise control doesn't work either.) I have an extra 24v vr6 (2.8) ECU sitting around which from what I've read uses the same hardware, just a different flash. This may be a stupid question, but if I were to take this to UM to get a performance flash, would I be able to basically overwrite the 2.8 ECU and make this work in the R? Would there be any issues with the immobilizer?
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My husband has a 2011 GTI, which has just hit the 40k mileage mark. His CEL started coming on in March, but we figured it was due to him not tightening the gas cap enough, as he'd open and relock the gas cap, and the CEL would go away within a few restarts of the car. Took it into the stealership last week, got the 40k service (which was a bit of a rip-off in itself), and then got told the manifold was bad.
This is the exact text for the invoice: "Checked the vehicle for codes and found code P2015. Traced the intermittent failure to the intake manifold valve flap sensor failing."
I've seen a lot of posts around this problem, for many models and years, but it seems like most people managed to get it repaired under warranty / TSB. So I have three questions:
1. In the OBD codes, does it store date as well as code? In other words, is there a way to prove that this failed under 36k miles?
2. What's the process for getting this escalated to VWOA customer care, since I feel this should be taken care of under warranty?
3. The dealership we took the car to (which is not where we purchased the car, but is just closer to home) was shady, and the guy we worked with was, to say it nicely, a jerk.
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I have a chamfering noise coming from my intake manifold on idle. sometimes its there and sometimes its not, it goes away with any application of throttle.
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I am just wondering at what revs the stock intake manifolds are meant to switch over as i think mine is stuck and not moving.
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I have to replace the valve cover gasket this weekend.
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Leaking intake manifold gaskets on General Motors 3.1L V6 engines? Mine is a 1998 Grand Am with low milage (40K) and I have been told I need to spend $900 to replace the intake manifold gasket because it is leaking antifreeze into the engine oil.
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Looking at a 2003 Prius with 77K miles. Turn the key, the engine starts, runs smooth for about 5-7 seconds. After that it starts to run rough and rattle, then shuts off. The only code I pulled was P3191. I pulled off the air cleaner to clean the throttle body, and noticed a small pool of oil in the bottom of the intake manifold. Is that normal, or could that be causing the code issue? BTW, I cleaned the MAF and throttle body, and the engine still does the same thing.
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I have a 1998 chevy silverado z/71 4x4. I had a water leak and had the intake manifold gaskets replaced. Ever since then, the check engine light comes on and it soots up the o2 sensors and the 4 plugs on the right bank. It may run good for a month or so and then it starts all over again.
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Watch this video. I have a rattle/noise coming from the rear right side of my car for almost 2 years now.
The part in the video is the neck of the fuel tank just behind the plastic inner fender.
[URL] ....
Is this normal? i don't know where to search anymore to find where the rattle comes from...
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I have no CEL at all, no loss of power etc..... but this rattle comes from what seems mid point under the car around 1900-2600 rpm in that area. I tapped on the Cat and there was no noise. Could it be from the mid point around the resonator ? I am really starting to get at a loss here about the sound. like I said No cel and performance is on par. if it was the honeycomb in my cat wouldn't i have a CEL ?
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I'm getting oil and fuel into the intake manifold every couple hundred miles. Oil level is in the middle of low and full mark. It's not like it's a huge amount of oil and fuel in the intake but it's enough to make the car misfire, bog out. Only codes I'm getting are misfire codes for all cylinder and reduce engine power code (forgot what code it actually is) but that's when the car completely shuts down and won't start with red triangle light. If I clean the intake out and unplug the battery for a few min I'm able to start the car again, but it will run really rough and white smoke will start to come out the exhaust (gas smell). I'm wondering if a bad maf would cause this. I've already cleaned it but still doing same thing. Don't really know what the specs or reading the bad is suppose to be so I'm kinda stuck to determined if I need a maf or not. Cars got about 242K miles.
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