Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Randomly When Go To Start Battery Is Dead 2001 AWD Not Starting


Jan 27, 2015

I am absolutely stumped and so are two mechanics I've been to. Randomly when I go to start the car the battery is so dead it won't start. Car is an AWD 2001 1.8T Jetta.

Replaced battery and alternator at my regular mechanic, all ground wires look great and couldn't find any shorts. There is a 11 Amp draw from my battery, took it to a shop that specializes in VW/Audi and they hooked it up to Vagcom and it showed absolutely nothing wrong. He left the meter hooked up and pulled every single fuse in the car and there was only like a 0.01 drop, nothing significant. When he went to take my car out of the shop, wouldn't start. So he put a battery pack on it, still wouldn't start. Took off both terminals on the battery, put them back on, put on the battery pack, and car started.

The aftermarket deck in it is just a JVC single din, doesn't seem to have any issues.

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I have the stock premium Monsoon radio, the typical double DIN one. Before I changed the battery I tried jumping it and all it did was heat up the jumper cables, not sure if that blew the fuse in the radio.

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I'm posting as a last ditch effort to try and rescue my 2001 Vw golf here's some quick details about the car then I'll go into the situation.

2001 Golf 1.8t 5speed

Euro customs stage 2 Aftermarket intake and downpipe

Still have front and rear O2 sensor and probably cat. Maybe..

Otherwise stock

201k miles

Okay so pretty much here's the rundown.. I was driving my car to work one day, then all the sudden lost complete throttle response to my car but was about to cruise at about 5-8mph to get to work and avoid towing. What is going on besides the EPC light was on and CEL was on. After work I discovered that the rear O2 sensor was hanging down and frayed.

Apparently from what I was told, that fries your ecu and put the car into a similar mode as mine. I then replaced the ecu with the euro customs ecu, I replaced the throttle pedal, and the throttle body since all I was getting was throttle codes. I am still not able to get rid of either EPC or CEL lights. The codes showing are p0638 and p2101. Yes I have tried to get the throttle body realigned or whatever you call it. However the vag com will not let you realign with the codes still in the computer which have been deleted but come back immediately.

The rear O2 is still unplugged and I still have little to no throttle response.

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So here's whats going on now. My girlfriend has had her car for about 10 months now, and besides the last 3 weeks it has been a perfect car. In these last 3 weeks though her car has been a real pain.

Her car randomly dies while its being driven/at a stop. It doesn't matter how fast she is going or how long she has been at a stop.

It first started 3 weeks ago when i was driving it to the mall with her and the car started to slow down on the freeway, going about 65. I pushed on the accelerator and got no response. After about 5 seconds all power came back and we were off. At no point in time did the power inside or the headlights dim/turn off.

Next time it died it wouldn't get going again. Battery was fine. My first assumption was the fuel pump. Replaced the fuel pump and it ran fine.

A couple days later the car did the exact same thing, except this time the battery was completely shot. Took a look at it and it was almost 8 years old. Went and replaced it.

The following day it died again, this time it was the battery again but since it was a brand new battery we knew it couldn't be the issue. So i went ahead and replaced the alternator. Turned on the car and it ran perfect. While it was running i even disconnected the battery just to make sure the alternator could still power the car, no issues.

A few days went by with everything working perfectly fine, not a single issue that is, until tonight. As my girlfriend was coming to pick me up her car died. She was coming up to a stop light and starting to slow down when her car lost power again. All the lights and radio stayed on but the car died. Battery light came on as well. I walked to her car and told her to try to start it. Fired up right away and ran fine like nothing ever happened. Drove it to my house without another issue.

At this point i'm stumped. The CEL is not coming on, which is a bummer because that would make this much easier. I cleaned off the terminals for the battery and the connecting wires (which weren't dirt or corroded).

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This is my first time at this shop too and I've never really dealt with "bad mechanics" before but something about this isn't sitting right with me, and I'm not sure how to handle my next step properly. So what would cause an engine oil cooler to leak profusely just after an oil change?

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I bought this car and I've changed out the Clutch Position Sensor, the black one on the clutch mount. Started to work and start but now it's doing the same symptoms as before. So here is what is going on.

1. Randomly doesn't start, full power comes on, and fuel system turns on, immobilizer works just fine as far as I can tell (key light turns off)

2. Cruise control doesn't work (which lead me to the CPS)

3. High revs between shift, once I push the clutch to shift it revs up high, I noticed that if I stay under 3k it doesn't do it as much, but if I go HAM on it it revs up about 1k rpm more than at shift point. But if I shift nice it revs about 2-400 rpm.

It's been tuned by C2 Motorsports, done by a certified mechanic, that's the only mod on the car, besides suspension. I bought the car and dropped 1100 to fix it to drive right, newish throttle body, and a major vacuum hose, and the tune within a month of getting the car and the tune was to mainly flash the ecu so it wouldn't pull two codes for a leak that wasn't there anymore.

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The other day, I went to start it and it wouldn't start. But I had nothing to do that day so I went back inside and did whatever. Went out about 5 hours later, and it started just fine.

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