Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Radiator Fans And AC Stopped Working At The Same Time
Jul 27, 2015
A few days ago I was driving around. I get back in my car and when i turn it on no air blows and the radiator fans aren't working at all. My car hasn't overheated but have stopped driving until I can figure the issue out. I have since replaced the fuse box on top of the battery to no avail. I was thinking that it could possibly be the fan control module but in all the posts I am reading not one says that theirs don't work, they just keep running. So is there something else i should be looking at?
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Both my radiator fans run all the time, even if the engine is cold. Soon as I fire it up, even if it's 0 degrees, they are running. To be clear, as expected, the fans do not run if the car is off.
Based on these symptoms, what components could be the culprit?
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So I noticed my temp gauge was starting to rise when I was on the freeway. I figured my fans were out but I just opened my hood and both fans were spinning. When I turned the car off both fans turned off but the temp gauge was almost into the red.
In the morning I turned on my AC and only the passenger side fan was working.
So I am not really sure what my next diagnostic step should be. The engine was not radiating any heat so I am not sure that it is even actually running that hot. Could it possibly be the temperature gauge? If I got a vagcom would I be able to check the actual temperature from there?
I am also concerned on how to find out if the fans are running at both speeds at the appropriate times.
Not sure if this is related but my cruise control stopped working a few weeks ago also.
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I have a quick question, I got a 2005 mk4 gli, and when the cooling fans go on, only one works, the other one does not, I checked the fuse and its fine.
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So I just got a 2002 1.8t, everything was fine until the fans and ac stopped working. After poking around the forums a bit I changed the following:
1. Fan Control Module. Result: nothing
2. Radiator Cooling Fan Switch Temperature Sensor. Result: nothing.
all fan components have the correct voltage going to them. Fuse 16 for the AC clutch is not blown and has power going to it. The AC compressor has power going to it. The fuses on the battery box have power going to them specifically S180.
My question is what am I missing? is it possible that the fans themselves could be bad? car is not overheating, the after run coolant pump kicks on. But the AC clutch is not spinning nor are the fans. btw AC clutch is not seized up.
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I own a 2006 Prius with 52k miles on it. Great car BTW. The problem is simple, the radiator cooling fans stopped working on high mode; they run around 25% only even, not removing the heat from the a/c evaporator and the radiator coolant. I checked fuses: OK, checked relays: OK. They spin freely and nothing is blocking the front face of the evaporator. Funny I noticed it when I started hearing the a/c compressor buzzing noise and then I realized the fan noise wasn't there!
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I have a 2004 volkswagen jetta, and it has started overheating. At first my problem was the thermostat. After that was changed out the fans stopped working correctly. It kept blowing fuses in s180 slot.
I read somewhere in another post that this is due to the fact the resistor in the low speed fan go bad, and for your car's radiator fan to go from zero to high speed, causes the fuse to blow. Also I read that when the fans start up it draws the most current, and then after it's running the current is considerably less.
This is my solution, I went to napa, and got a circuit breaker for a car, and Yes, to my surprise they make them. I picked up several a 10amp, 15 amp, 20 amp, and a 30 amp. First, I tried the 30 amp circuit breaker and it didn't trip the circuit, but when I put a regular fuse in the slot, it did trip the circuit, when I did the fan test at the thermostat switch. Next, I put the 25 amp in there and neither did it trip the circuit. When I put the 10 amp in the s180 slot, it tripped the circuit, just as the regular 30 amp fuses do. So that confirmed that the amps that were being drawn from the fans were not enough to trip a 30 amp circuit breaker.
What I did next, is I took a 20 amp circuit breaker and put that in the s180 slot. Then I hooked up vag com on my laptop to check and see how it performed with the 20 amp circuit, and these are the results.
Car Temperature in celsius
at 111 degrees the gauge was moving past the halfway point
at 115 degrees the gauge was one notch past halfway going towards the red zone
at 120 degrees the gauge was two notches past halfway going towards the red zone
at 122 degrees the fans kicked on high speed for about 30 seconds, and knocked the
temperature down to 105 degrees.
In conclusion, if the high speed on the fans work, you don't have to take those out and go and buy an expensive new fan set. Just stick a 20 amp circuit breaker in the slot, and keep using the fans that you have.
Part no: 782-3154................ Name: Circuit Breaker, 20 Amp; Blade
Note: I take NO responsibility for any damage you do to your vehicle from any information you obtained from this post. Do this at your own risk! I am not a mechanical expert but this is my solution to the overheating problems.
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As it was such a matter of time, my fans on my 24v gave up during winter, no big deal as it was a pretty cold winter but now that spring is around the corner, I gotta fix this issue. To they change for the same OEM unit that will die in the next 30k miles.
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I don't understand what is going on I noticed smoke coming from my fans radiator fans and I'm pretty sure that it was motor being fried I've gone to the junkyard and bought a used assembly hooked it up and still nothing could be a possibility that when the motor fried it fried the control module for the fans
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Radiator fans making tons of noise on my newly purchased gli jetta...
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I'm having an issue with my fans on my radiator. They don't turn on when the engine gets warm and the A/C is off. I've replaced the crack pipe, water pump, and belt tensioner. I've replaced the fans not to long ago because the low speed wasn't working. I tested low speed at the fan connector and it wasn't working. After replacing fans I tested and it was working when jumping the pins on the thermo switch connector. I got both low and high speeds to work during that test. I've since replaced the thermo switch to see if it would fix the issue but the fans still won't come on without turning the A/C on. Any other tests I could do or should I just try to get another thermo switch.
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I have an odd problem. My AC will not activate until the engine gets hot enough that the radiator fans turn on. Once they do, the engine RPMs drop, the clutch kicks in, and I get frosty cold air with no problems. I already replaced my FCM and checked all fuses. It worked consistently all last summer and considering the AC is nice and cold once it kicks in, I don't think this is a pressure issue and it was recharged at the beginning of last summer by a good shop.
I changed my coolant flange a few months ago, same temp sensor. Didn't try AC back then as it was cool outside still. Could this have something to do with it? I have proper readout on my dash. Maybe it's the ambient temp sensor?
2.0 Getta GL AEG 230,000 miles.
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I have a 1.6 8v mk4 Golf, and my fans started staying on all the time. There are 2 coolant sensors on this model, one is the green one, and the other is the black one which seems to be hardwired into the thermostat housing. Anyway, I changed the green one, and that didn't solve it, so changed the whole thermostat, which obviously came with a new sensor build on....Hey, it worked, for 2 weeks, and then the fans started coming on again as soon as you turned the ignition key...and the temp needle doesn't move much, as before.
My suspicions have moved to the sensor wiring loom, that was fiddled with, while changing the thermostat...I hear they can become brittle over time, and so behave as if the sensor is unplugged, i guess.... Do these wires unplug anywhere in there so I can test the loom properly?
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My wife's 2009 Ford Flex has an intermittent radiator cooling fan issue. It has dual cooling fans and with the AC on, the passenger side fan runs wide open but the driver side fan doesn't run. With the AC off, neither fan runs even though I let the car idle for a long time to try and get it hot enough to allow the fan(s) to turn on. It doesn't matter if the engine is cold or warm, the passenger side fan runs extremely fast when the AC button is pushed. I've checked all connections and applied some dielectric grease to the connections. I also checked the fuses to the fans. Have to buy the entire dual fan assembly?
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My 2003 camry LE 4 cyl cooling/radiator fans stay on all the time. As soon as I turn the ignition key both radiator fan start to spin even though the car is cold and not on. I checked all the relays and fuses. Checked the voltage on the coolant sensor harness with ignition switch on, there is no 5v or the green pin is not grounded. I am clueless where to go next.
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Both main headlights stopped working at the same time. The low beams work, the high beams work, but nothing from the outer headlights. I swapped out the Euroswitch, with the Oem and still no luck.
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My independent mechanic says my radiator fan and AC fan are cycling too much. The dealer says they are not. I know it started about 6 months ago and that I get 2 miles per gallon less now. If the heat, defrost selector is in any position it happens as long as the fan control in not on off.The fans run for 5 seconds and then are off for 20 seconds. The independent says the AC has refrigerant but doesn't know what is causing it. It happens at all outside temperatures. It happens at all car temperatures. (Just started, been driving for an hour etc.)
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So this seems to be a common code that is thrown when you near 100k miles, I'm at 77k .. This thread seems to be the most organized [URL] ....
"Long story short, there are 5 main reasons this problem can pop up, listed in order of likelihood, least to greatest:
1) Coolant sensor
2) Thermostat
3) Bad fans
4) Coolant mixture
5) Water pump "
My issue is that the only ones I'm (probably) able to rule out is coolant mixture and bad fans. My radiator fans do turn on from time to time, so I thought I'd ruled that out (unless it would throw a code for not turning on at appropriate times?)
I heard of a test to turn on your AC and see if they turn on, but my AC hasn't blown cold air like ever, so I don't know if that affects the test (probably not?)
A couple years ago I had a shop replace the original thermostat with the new one, or was it the coolant sensor, or both (ugh, I don't remember!) That leaves thermostat, coolant sensor, and water pump.
I guess my main question is is there anyway to find out which it is between these 3, without spending so time, money, parts etc? It doesn't seem the coolant sensor is easily accessible for one.
My car has been really slow recently but I also need to change the spark plugs, I'm doing that this week. I cleared the CEL/P2181 code and it returned a few weeks later,
I'm starting to change my mind about this car being easy to maintain/reliable, I'm always on time with maintenance and with only 77k miles on a 2004 car.
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A couple months ago my Key Fob stopped working. I tried using the button and then tried to use the key to unlock the door. I'm trying to figure out if there is a possibility that the immobilizer in my fob is junk or maybe its something as easy as changing the battery (which is another issue in itself because I cant open the fob for the life of me) Once again just curious if there is something I can do to fix this issue without contacting and dealing with the dealership. Would like to be able to lock my car again at some point.
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A few months ago I'm key fobs stopes working the I switched out the batteries and still no progress. What it could be?
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The reverse light has stopped working on my MKIV TDi. Done all the usual things I can like bulbs/fuses.
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