I have a 2001 vw jetta 2.0l manual. When the car is running the rpms jump up and Down from about 300 rpm to 900 rpm and I guess that's why the car will stall out every time I press the clutch to stop. Also the car won't run with the MAF plugged in. If the MAF is plugged in it will drive but will not idle the car will just stall.
View 16 Replies I have a golf mk4 1.8T AGU, about one week after i had my k04-023 turbo on and all the Stuff that comes along it started "stall" (don't know if its the right word??) in the High gears, most 5th gear but it first start doing it when i hit boost (3000rpm)
I runs on Stock n75 valve.. I though i could be a boost problem, maybe the Stock system cant handle it? I did install a boost gauge to see if it was the was the problem, and it dont Seem like it. In first it runs from 1.4 bar and drops to 1.2. Same in second and third. But in 4 and 5th it goes to 1.7 bar and drops to 1.4.. I did wonder it maybe the n75 valve cant handle 1.7 bar??
I've been trying to figure out what exactly is going on with my car but its hard to explain/describe it so I've decided to video it..
Driving + shifting + holding my phone + my GTI is spun all the way down on coils = shakie video.
In Video #1, I'm in 4th gear at 2800 RPM and gave it full throttle. Watch it closely at 0:04 you will notice how the RMP just jump back a little and then continue accelerating while the boost is holding at 15psi.
Video #2, same story at 0:04 except the boost jumps back as well.
It does NOT seem normal and im not sure whats wrong and where to even start.
Slipping clutch?
Diverter Valve?
Boost/vacuum leak?
Turbo into DP leak?
My GTI is APR Stage II, intake and catless turboback exhaust.
Video #1
Video #2
My 2002 VW Jetta 1.8t has recently taken a dump and had been sputtering jumping periodically when I pressed the accelerator. It had started several months ago and has become progressively worse until it didn't start anymore. Usually I could turn it off and then turn it on again and it would be fine. Not anymore.
I checked it out, the fuel pump, engine speed sensor and fuel pump relay had all been shot so my initial thought was to check for a broken wire somewhere if it had been shorting. All wires are intact but i can't find the ground connector for the fuel pump. Where is it located? I have checked and serviced all other grounds, have replaced fuel pump, relay and speed sensor. The injectors are getting juice but aren't working (the injectors themselves are still good)
Also, there are three connectors behind the relay bar underneath the dash where the fuel pump relay is located. What order they are supposed to be? There is blue, red and green. They were disconnected (not my idea) and now I don't know how they go back.
I have a 1992 jeep Cherokee sport that is giving me quite a headache & it seems to be getting worse. My jeep has 272,000 miles on it. Bought it used almost 5 yrs ago. Anyways, starting back in april when it started to get warm here in Pennsylvania, it started to do this thing where you'd be driving it at 45mph, the tac meter (thing that reads RPM) starting to bounce up n' down from 800rpm to roughly 1500rpm. It would bounce like that for every 2 secs while driving. Now, when i went to slow down to roughly 35mph & slower then that, it would begin to spit, sputter, jerk, & carry on & it shut off on me once!
It seemed like it got a mind of it's own too. When I come to a stop, it seems like it wants to give it more gas!!! There are acouple of times that I almost didn't get stopped & almost rear ended a couple of cars!! When you go to park it & let it run, it sounds like someone is pushing down on the gas & letting off of it every 3 secs. Again, it would go from 0rpm to 1200rpm then keep doing that til you shut it off. If you shut it off & leave it set for about an hr then, it'll run just fine for about an hr or so & then, begin to mess up!!
So far, I've changed, the plugs, plug wires, dist cap/rotor, 02 sensor, swapped a MAP sensor off of my moms jeep, (no change there) The last thing I just bought was a Ignition coil. Mine had cracks in it so, I thought it might of been that. NOPE!!! Still messes up. It seems like the hotter it gets outside, the quicker it wants to mess up. I've even got a can of carb cleaner & sprayed every vac line/hose that I can find. No change!!
One more thing. On cold/cool mornings, it'll start up & run just fine even with the bad coil that was on there.. No problems.
I have a 06 B6 that I am having issues with. We took a trip to Vegas in June and had no problems the entire way. We get home and the next day he starts throwing a CEL. We take it to our mechanic to have him VAG COM it and he says it is running rich at idle. The mechanic says that we may have gotten some bad gas when we left Vegas. Ok, no worries, we put new gas in the car along with some fuel cleaner and it seems to be ok. I drive the car 7 miles each way to work, and the way I break is that I coast into it before I brake. I noticed that the RPM's started jumping around. My husband took it to the mechanic and he said to clean the MAF and to take the intake off. Done, still getting a CEL.
So I take it back to the mechanic and he says its the seal inside the High Pressure Fuel Pump, while because of the CamFlower/Fuel Pump issue the only one in Phoenix is 50 miles away and at an Audi dealership that wanted to mark it up 50%. He also said that it smelled like fuel under the oil cap. So I go and get it, only to get it put on (Wednesday), everything good and then I notice today(Friday) that it is still jumping around. I have had the code cleared today but I am afraid that it is still something else. The CEL is off but for how long I dont know.
My wifes 2008 Eddie Bauer Explorer V-6 recently started having an erratic idle and we've started noticing it while at higher RPM's. Its almost as if there is a cylinder that misfires but no engine light is coming on. The car stumbles like it is going to start to die, then the idle jumps up and smooths out. A little while later it does the same thing. The car has I think 74,000 miles on it and has never had the plugs or wires changed. I change out the fuel filter roughly every 24,000 miles and did it recently in the spring. Any places where I should start looking? Could a misfire not trigger the check engine light?
View 3 RepliesMy car is a 2001 honda accord v6. It sat for 3 winter months. When I go to turn it on in the morning, the car will rev while idling. Jumping between 1000 and 3000 rpms. Why this might be happening?
View 3 RepliesMy truck is acting up. Last night when I was parallel parking I noticed the RPM was jumping, I then noticed the OverDrive switch was blinking. I turned off and turned it back on and the issue went away. This morning on my way to work, it did exactly the same and it automatically corrected itself. The overDrive ON/OFF light keeps blinking.
My truck : 7.3 Diesel, Auto trans, 86 K Miles, Super Chip.
I have been having some major issues with my truck!
The whole truck is vibrating when on. When I accelerate I hear a loud noise like something is hitting a fan. I'm scared to even drive it. The rpm's have been jumping around.
What could be causing this? I already replaces Fuel filters.
MKIV 1.8T. Basically the engine turns itself off for 2-5 seconds while driving (quite dangerous!!), then immediately starts back up. For that 2-5 seconds the car is coasting and slowing down. Gas pedal does nothing, but the once the engine comes back on it was as if nothing happened. No CELs or anything else to indicate something is wrong.
The problem appears to happen like most others, with gas 1/4 tank or less (sometime 1/3 tank or less), cruising between 60-75 mph. I've already replaced all spark plugs, new plug wires, air filter, fuel filter, and the Crank Position sensor. I haven't yet changed or cleaned the fuel pump, gas tank or MAF ...
2000 Jetta 2.0. 140k miles. Cranked, but would not fire. Sprayed starter fluid... nothing. No spark. Checked fuel pump and fuel pump relay, all is well. I let it sit over night. I tried starting it, ran for 4 to 5 seconds shut off. Disconnected MAF sensor, it ran. Put in a new MAF sensor, back to cranking no fire. Let it sit over night, started up again. Tried to drive, stalled. Unpliged MAF sensor, now its running. Drove around parking lot. Afraid to take it out, don't want to be stranded.
View 1 RepliesSo my 2.0 Golf GLS Automatic has been having a few small issues lately.. Started out with engine stalling out when put into into Reverse. I was told to swap out the TB so I did. Didn't fix issue, next I was told alternator, installed a new one & it didn't fix the issue... . I finally decided today to throttle up the RPM's when I put it in reverse & guess what it worked!!! No more vibrations no more stalling (For now anyway). But on the even brighter side it finally gave me codes!!! P0725, P1780, P0740, P1850, & P1544. I know it seems bad but I finally have something to work with!! Only bad thing that really concerns me is that now I feel like I may need a new tranny....
View 4 Replies2000 neon automatic. My wife was complaining about the rpms jumping around when on the highway going about 65mph. The rpms are around 3000 and jump very slightly up and down and you can hear the engine tone change when it happens. Checked tran fluid and it was low about 3/4 of a quart and added some fluid, changed spark plugs and wires and the problem is still there. Doesn't happen all the time. She says it seems to only do this if the car has been sitting for a few hours or longer. There is an code for the downstream sensor which needs to be changed.
View 2 RepliesSo my 98 f150 xlt 4.6 is having a issue where the truck is jumping from 1500 rpm to about 2500 - 2600 rpm. You know sitting there trying to get up to speed. then all the sudden i look down and its at 1500 rpm. but still not really going anywhere. So i give it a little more throttle or gas and it jumps from 1500 to about 2500. Its been like this for a month but i thought it was crap fuel. What is the cause or maybe a solution?
View 4 RepliesI have this issue from time to time where I will be driving and my car will randomly stall itself out and shut off. what could be the issue?
2nd I have an issue while idling, where if I am idling I feel a slight vibration like it is about to stall.
3rdly How big of an offset can i have on rear wheels that are 18x8?
The aforementioned questions are regarding a 2004 GLI.
I have been beatingy head against the wall for the last month with this car. It started out by just running really rough and stalling out. Found out that I had a bad clamp on the air intake that attaches to the throttle body. Replace that after I already replaced the MAF. Everything was great till couple days later then the car just crank crank crank no fire....
I cleaned the grounds pulled the plugs and coils, had perfect spark. Put everything back come to find out after going thru my Bentley manuals I jumped around the fuel pump relay fuel pump kicked on perfect started great! Replaced the fuel pump relay BAM! Ran great!!!! For 2 days..... After that right when I pulled into the drive way the car would not start.... So I tried everything again.... To no avail..... Check the codes again, now I'm throwing these codes which yes I did cross reference in my Bentley manual.
P1117- O2 sensor heater circuit bank 1 sensor 2 short to ground
P1198- O2 sensor heater circuit bank 1 sensor 2 electrical malfunction
P1472- EVAP emission control LDP circuit short to ground
P1516- Intake manifold changeover valve circuit open
And the dreaded same code I've had the whole time........
P0102- Mass or volume air flow circuit low input.
I have also tried tracking down any bad wires, and testing resistance...
It will randomly not want to keep running when I goto start it so I just rev for a min and then it's fine after that. It doesn't happen to often. 2003 Jetta 1.8t
View 2 RepliesWell first the exact car I have. 99.5 Jetta 2.0 AEG. It all started with one loud backfire with a stall at a stop light while in neutral. After that it was random stalling and jerking while driving. So I checked my everything and all seemed well. I replaced spark plugs because they where fouled and nasty. Cables are good. They're near new and tested them with a multimeter. Next I checked my injectors and they are surprisingly very clean.
I had also ran seafoam prior to these problems a few weeks before it all started. Next step was new fuel filter. Old one was nasty and black stuff dripped out. That didn't work. So I checked for vacuum leaks with throttle body cleaner. Nothing. Visually threre is nothing wrong under the hood. So today I changed the fuel pump. Went for a test drive all seemed well. Can out of the bank. Then it won't start. So I wait like normally. And it normally gets me home. Nothing. Will sometimes start but if I'm not holding the gas it dies. I don't know what to do. My only other thing I can think of is the coil pack.
Mechanics say they don’t know what wrong… I had some transmission work done on my truck – mostly an leak and replacing the harness – and ever since then after it rains or if we have a heavy dew my truck does the following:
Driving from O to 49 miles an hour truck is fine, as soon as I hit 50 the truck starts surging and you can see the tachometer jumping from 2000 RPM to 2500 RPMs. I drive around 17 miles to work where my truck will sit for seven hours. On the way home the truck is fine. I find this to be more of a problem when the truck has sat for a day or two over the weekend without driving it. Sometimes the “check engine” light will come on, sometimes not.
I have taken it to two different places and neither one says they can find anything wrong with the truck. I have driven this truck for over 11 years and know it very well. There is something wrong, but what? 1993 Chevy Silverado 3500 Diesel....
New valve cover gasket on my 03 VR6 GTI, new plugs, oil filter and cooler seals, new gaskets on the intake manifold and when we started it up . . . .
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It runs rough.
EPC light is on.
Stall at idle.
Runs great at full throttle.