I have a 2005 Jetta 2.0 BEV GLS. I got a code P0302 for misfire on cylinder 2. I am pretty sure it's the Ignition coil. I live in Canada and my autoparts store only has BWD brand. I have read this is a crappy brand.
View 1 Replies2000 Jetta 2.0 cylinder 2 misfire. Replaced plugs and wires. No check engine light but code is pending and there's still a misfire. Need to smog
Replace coil pack?
Swap fuel injectors and recheck?
I just purchased a 2005 Santa Fe, 4WD, 2.7l..the engine has a miss...the code that came up was "misfire in #2 cylinder"..I checked the coil pack...and the wire harness just crumbled..so I replaced the coil pack...reset the code..and it was good for a couple of days...I got through inspection...today I put on the A/C..and the engine got rough..the check engine light came back on..same code..misfire in #2..I'm thinking the injector or what else could it be? plug? wire?
View 3 Replies2009 Accent, 1.6L 154,xxx Cylinder two misfire. Engine was rebuilt due to timing belt. Twice. Second time I did it. Replaced plugs, coil packs, all gaskets, (everything new in the head) did a smoke test, compression test 180 psi across all four, used a noid light for coil packs (good) did it at the injectors 1,3,4 did good, but 2 came on then went off. Check resistance and it shows good, replaced injector anyway and the connecter. Still doesn't work. Checked powers and grounds at the rail, good. Good solid voltage. I hooked up a scan tool and tried to shut injector 2 off, no change in RPM or vibration. Scan tool worked for 1,3,4. Used another PCM, still misfire in two. Even jumped a wire from PCM control and 15A inj fuse for the 12V constant (bypassed the harness) and still doesn't work. Also have knock sensor code, just two codes.
View 14 RepliesI have a new (to me) '97 Windstar with 128K +. C.E.L. is on and intermittently flashing. The code reads P0302 (Cylinder 2 Mis-fire). No other codes are set. Have cleared them many times and gone through multiple drive cycles.
Description of issue: After clearing the codes, and indeed upon each startup, the car starts and idles smoothly without hesitation or issue. It pulls away from parked position without issue. Appears to accelerate just fine. In stop-and-go traffic or directly onto the highway it seems to run smoothly without problem. After a period of time (I don't believe it to be consistent), it will start to misfire and the C.E.L. will be set. If it is still misfiring, the light will flash.
Here's the weird part...when stopping at a traffic light or just continuing to drive on the highway, the misfire will resolve and the car will run smoothly again. The C.E.L., trailing the condition by a bit, will go to solid from flashing and will remain that way until a little farther down the road. The misfire never seems to be more than one cylinder and the trouble code seems to bear that out. Just idling, the car will return to smooth operation and it seems to have smooth acceleration. In other words, the misfire seems to go away under acceleration.
What I've done: I've replaced plugs and wires. No change. Replaced Coil pack. No change.
Next steps: Next steps seem to be looking to fuel or air. My concern with that approach is the occasional nature of the problem. Compression problems would be consistent across the board, right? That cylinder would always be a problem. Same thing for fuel (fuel pump and/or filter). All cylinders would have the problem and it would have issues starting. OK, next thing--injector. Would an injector have spotty performance like this? Also, could it be related to the EGR ports on the intake on this vintage Windstar? (Once again, is an intermittent problem consistent?) Finally, since the primary circuit for spark is controlled by a PCM pin setting a ground for each cylinder, could the PCM, or wiring, be the culprit?
I bought my first VW about 3 months ago (so excited!) It's a 2003 Passat, 5 spd, 1.8t. I've had one thing happen so far (until yesterday). On 4 separate occasions when I'd go to start it, it would crank for a few seconds before it would start. Then once it was running the EPC light would turn on. It seemed to be running normally but I turned it off and restarted it and it started normally and the light extinguished (the first three times). The last time (about a week and a half ago) it kept doing it each time I started it, and upon starting probably the 4th time in a row the MIL came on. I drove it about a mile, turned it off for a few minutes, then turned it back on and it started normally with no malfunction lights on. It's been normal since then. Until yesterday...
Yesterday as I'm accelerating from a stop light (I think I was in 3rd) all of the sudden the engine started running really rough and the MIL came on. I turned around and drove about 2 miles back to where I started at about 20mph. The MIL would be steady while coasting and flash while pressing the accelerator. I got a hold of a diagnostic computer and it came up with 3 codes...
1) P0322 Ignition/Dist Engine Speed Input Circuit No Signal
2) P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
3) P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected PENDING
My 2004 Ford Freestar SEL (the 4.2L version, 123,000 miles) is missing. The computer code is P0302 which, from what I can find, indicates a misfire in cylinder 2. I had this same code at 99,000 miles and ended up having the spark plugs and wires replaced around 100K miles. It was all running fine until about a month ago and started misfiring again, badly. I thought it was related to the rain but it is doing it all the time now. At times it gets so bad, I have no power and the computer disengages my A/C (bad at this time of the year). I tried a running a fuel system cleaner that specifically mentioned cleaning the injectors, hoping the problem was simply a clogged injector, to no avail (I know I probably wasted my $10 here). I have a couple of questions:
1. Am I doing damage to the engine or transmission by continuing to drive it? I really don't have a choice but need to know how urgent it is.
2. Does this thing have a traditional distributor cap & rotor or is there an electronic ignition module the plug wires connect to?
3. Where would I find the illusive distributor or ignition module, in theory?
4. Any other theories as to the cause of the misfire (cheapest first)?
I have a 2010 accent GL manual sedan. It has 104,962 KM on it, the warranty expired December 18, 2015. Since February this car has become a frustrating money pit. Being in the dealership constantly for repairs, then within a week something else 'happens' and back it goes. Spent almost $5000 in 4 months on repairs. Decided that's enough and will do majority of repairs myself.
Yesterday while drive on the highway I had a sudden loss of power and a check engine light came on. My scanner which has become a standard item in my glove box indicated a misfire on cylinder 2 - P0302. I limped the car home, in 3rd gear I was having a hard time staying above 2000rpm at 60km/h. at lights I had to use hand brake so I could keep my foot on accelerator, revs were dropping below 300.
Today I replaced all the plugs (all 4 were still in good or better condition, #2 showed signs of a slightly rich burn and #3 a slightly lean burn), replaced all coil boots (no cracks, no burns, and still pliable), removed and cleaned all the injectors. Error code P0302 persists.
I have a 2002 Santa Fe 4 cyl that is giving me a problem that I could use some advice on tracking down & fixing . First & most important is a code P0302 # 2 Cyl misfire. How to check the ignition coil pack , injector ,& wire for this cylinder in home garage with normal tools & meter . Is there a you tube displaying how to do this step by step ?
The other problem which I don't have the code for at this time is that some part of the exhaust is not getting warm enough & this also put's the check engine light on . Will get back on this one when I solve the main problem Misfire.
I have a 2005 Santa Fe with the 3.5 with 112000 miles on it. I had the engine light come on with the code P0302 cyl #2 misfire, I got spark plugs, plug wires to do a tune up on it. I changed all of it and got it back together, started it up and it still had a miss to it. I then took the front spark plugs out and did a compression test on it. #2 was at 85, #4 was at 120, and #6 was at 160. I couldn't check the back cyls because I had already put the intake back on. I then did a wet test, and all the cyls came up to 160. So this tell me that the piston rings are bad in #2 and going bad in #4. I have kept all the oil changes up and up to this point I haven't had any trouble with it. Having this problem with there 3.5?
View 1 RepliesGetting error code p0302, misfire in 2, pulled the plug and had oil on the treads and on the lower part. My guess is the valve cover gasket, but I'm not 100 percent sure.
View 18 Replies2005 3.5L FWD. 5 days ago I left the house, the engine was running smooth at idle but having hiccups when accelerating. Check engine light went on when accelerating but going off at idle. Turned around at the first stop light, parked the car home and pulled code P0302 misfire on #2 . Figured it's most likely the coil, was going to order one next day but to my surprise, no more check engine light next day and engine has been running smooth since then. Probably drove 100 miles since with no issues. I have 6 spark plugs waiting to be replaced but it's too cold to do it right now unless it's an emergency. Car has 105k miles now, spark plugs were changed at 63k. Was this just a fluke and P0302 will probably not come back or should I not risk it and just go ahead and replace the coil? If I end up replacing the coil, should I do one coil or all three?
View 22 RepliesI have a 1995 ford ranger 2.3 L dual coil packs new plugs, wires, coil packs, tps, idle air sensor, internal temp sensor, and a replaced mass air flow sensor from wrecker. That all said my one son missed a plug when i replaced it , it had no tip left on it , but since then i now have a misfire in cylinder 2 where the olther plug was found and replaced ...
Gap for plugs are .44
Used the wrecker maf to see if it would clear a p0113 which it did. I am stumped on why at approx. 30 minutes of driving that the cel will flash then set a p0302, no other codes no fuel smell. rechecked plugs all are clean haven't been able to check fuel pressure yet, and i out a can of seafoam in the tank to see if it clear out injectors.
Besides all, I will check injector to see if I hear anything but I'm stumped. Also we have to have an emission test so is it best to fail the test and will it show me what I'm missing.
2000 Jetta GL 2.0 AEG. I am receiving the P0304 which I have identified as Cylinder misfire #4. I read on some previous posts that I cannot be the distributor because if it was I would be receiving misfires on two cylinders. The spark plugs are OEM NGK and have been replaced recently.
View 2 RepliesAlright so my car is popping up 4 codes.
P0411 - Secondary Air Injection System Incorrect Flow Detected
P0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0302 - Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
P0303 - Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
Vehicle: 1999.5 VW Jetta MK4 2.0L GLS (AEG)
The P0411 code I have had for a while now and I been lacking to fix it. I pretty sure I can get this fixed but it doesn't cause problems so I haven't paid to much attention to it. Anyways, the other day I noticed a puddle of coolant under my car so after checking it out, the water pump was leaking so I bought a new one and replaced the old one. However, during the replacement process I had to remove the timing belt and I accidentally turned the top pulley about 1 notch and didn't notice at the time. After putting everything back on, I turned my car on and the engine sound a bit weak so I ran for about 10 minutes around a couple blocks.
I instantly noticed that the car had no power and it took me a long time to speed up. When I got back, I plugged in my scanner and I only had the same P0411 code and nothing else. After carefully reviewing the camera I had recording during the water pump replacement, I notice I had turned the top pulley a bit so I went ahead and removed the timing belt, readjusted it, and it worked! I was excited that the car was working fine again. Soon after, I headed out to take a drive and noticed after 60MPH the car didn't have much power. The car still accelerates after 60MPH, but extremely slow. As soon as I arrived back home, I plugged in my scanner and that is where I seen the 4 codes. Now my question is what could have caused this? Could I have damaged something when I ran my car with the incorrect timing?
Things I have done so far:
-I checked to see if I left anything unplugged.
-I checked for any vacuum leaks
-I checked my oxygen sensors so see if I was running rich/lean
Things I will do after work today:
-Check the spark plugs
-Check spark plug cable for damage
I recently changed my spark plugs + coil packs in my 01 1.8T because it read a couple cylinder misfire codes. Drove it for a few days out of curiosity plugged the code reader in again and it's still reading misfire codes. What could the issue be still?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2002 VW GTI, it's entirely stock and I can't get rid of this lean code. Compression is Good. Injectors are Good, Vacuum Limes are Good, Spark Plugs are Good, Coils are Good!!!!!. I only have two weeks to pass inspection in DE, I'm a college student and as most of us know, that mean $0 for car repair.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2000 VW Jetta 2.0l AEG engine with 190,000 miles and check engine code P0303 for the 2nd time in 3 months. I had this same code 3 months and 3000 miles ago and found the spark plug #3 to be fouled up. All other plugs and wires seemed to be okay so I replaced plug #3 and the problem went away. I suppose after I take off the upper intake manifold I am going to find the same plug #3 to be fouled up again. The engine is a typical AEG that I have to add 1 quart of oil every 1000 miles as it has been burning the same amount of oil since I acquired the car at 135,000 miles. I have read that the wrong piston rings were installed from the factory on a large number of these engines and VW says that if less than 1 quart of oil is burned after 7500 miles it is normal. I really don't feel like spending 2 hours every 3000 miles to replace plug #3 ? It might be time to part ways with my 2nd VW. As a side note, this car has been averaging 35.5 mpg over the last 55,000 miles that includes 50% city/ 50% highway driving. I coast to red lights and don't accelerate quickly with the 5 speed manual transmission to achieve hybrid like fuel efficiency.
View 1 RepliesI own a BMW not a VW! My 19yr old daughter purchased her first car a few months ago, an '03 Jetta 2.0L with approx. 170,xxx miles. Just after she got it we pulled a P0420 code, but it ran fine so we haven't worried too much about it. I've cleared that code and after about 2 weeks it will come back. Last week it started to have some issues with rough idle, stumbling/hesitation. I pulled the codes yesterday an in addition to the catalytic code is a cylinder #3 misfire P0303. I thinking the 2 codes are not related. I'm assuming the typical things to look for on the misfire are coil, wire, plug? Looks like the coil on this engine is a combined unit so no switching coil packs to see if the miss follows a bad coil pack.
View 4 RepliesShe is a 1999.5 Golf 2.0 (although, she just has a rabbit symbol on the hatch, is she a Rabbit or did someone remove the Golf badge?) I just bought the car, with less than 160,000 miles. The dome lights work sometimes, Door Ding works intermittently as well, but sometimes will "glitch" in other words it will be making the sound but it kind of stutters? Odd? The horn sometimes works, however it is very silent? Check engine light is on with a camshaft position sensor code and miss on cylinder 3. Someone told me to replace the "109 relay"... could this be the problem or is this the CCM?
View 5 RepliesWhen i got my 2000 jetta vr6 it has a CEL for misfires. Searched this board and google already. Im thinking injectors (havent checked yet) I noticed something weird the other day. At a light i get the CEL flashing. Then after a bit it will come on and stay on. I plugged in my generic reader and deleted the codes. When the CEL is on I get loss of power and hesitation. When its deleted the car runs better. I get my power back. I looked in the coolant tank and see no bubbles. Could this be the ECM? Im still going to get injectors but want to buy the gasket and anything else I am going to need to put it back together. I already cleaned the MAF, replaced some vac lines, coil pack, wires and checked plugs (gapped at .28) ...
View 4 Replies