Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Pull Up Really Hard To Get Parking Brake To Hold?
Nov 11, 2015
I have to pull up really hard to get the parking brake to hold. If I'm on a hill forget it, I yank up really hard and then leave it in gear just in case. I have installed new cables and pads. I have also have the lever adjusted so it starts to catch when you pull it up about 2-3 inches. I've never driven another mk4 so I don't have any other reference to how well the parking brake should hold but I would think that I wouldn't have to pull up this hard to get it to habe any real holding power.
Any other vehicle I've driven with a hand brake I could easily lock up the rear tires. I'm lucky to get mine to lock while pulling so hard I think I'm going to break something. I've searched around and have only come up with threads about replacing cables and adjusting the lever. I couldn't find anything like the problem I'm having. Is this normal operation for a mk4 or is there something wrong with my calipers that needs to be addressed? My regular brakes work fine and the parking brake arms on the calipers allear to be functioning properly. They contract then spring back on their own
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I have a 2003 Volkswagen Golf 2.0L 5 speed manual. Over the last 10,000 miles a problem started where on the highway in 5th gear, if i try to speed up by putting the pedal down, the steering wheel moves itself to the left and the car steers to the left. The wheel returns to the original position when i let off of the gas. its scary at high speeds and has become so bad that I can feel it accelerating at low speeds too.
The alignment is off and the steering wheel slightly to the right. when I put the gas down and it goes perfectly straight and when i release it goes back to the right. it has 126,000 miles on it. I know it needs tires, shocks and an alignment job but don't think that those factors are causing my problem. Could it be the motor mounts?
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I have a 1.8T with 152kmiles
Recently, both the coolant reservoir 'Y' connector and the driver side coolant flange cracked and I was shooting G12 all over the engine. I've replaced both of the parts and the coolant temp sensor with a "green top". Reservoir was refilled with the proper ratio of G12 to distilled water, ran for a bit and topped off accordingly.
This morning I started my drive to work and the engine temp was at 0 for a minute or so and started to climb slowly to 190. It stayed at 190 until I took the exit to the highway and the temp slowly started to rise while I was at 60mph. I immediately turned around and went back home with the heat cranked to high. With the heat on, the engine temp would slowly go down but then rise again if I, A. turned the heat off or B. made a hard pull up to ~55+mph.
I popped the hood and the coolant was not boiling and I couldn't see/smell/hear any leak. could this be the thermostat or is this a water pump issue? I plan on taking the thermostat off and checking the pump empellars for any shards. I'm not sure but I do believe the water pump was replaced by my parents while I was on deployment.
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The other day I backed out of my garage and didn't notice that the parking brake was still engaged. The car rolled out without a problem.
Only when I put it in drive did I realize that the parking brake was on, since the car didn't roll forward. I also got an audible alarm.
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I have a 2000 F350 4X4 with a V10 under the hood and a 5 speed manual transmission. It has a heavy western hauler bed, and a dual tired rearend. The truck has disc brakes all the way around that work great. I bought the truck used and immediately replaced all the disc brake pads as well as the seperate parking brake shoes and I had the parking brake drums turned. My problem is the parking brake shoes won't hold the truck at all and never have even when they were new. The parking brake shoes seem very small to me for a truck this size and weight. I have adjusted them as tight as I can with out causing them to drag when they are released. Is this a common problem for this type of parking brake on this type of truck? Is there something I am over looking or need to do to perhaps improve the parking brake? Would it be possible to splice some sort of "locking" valve into the brake lines going to the disc brakes to perhaps hold them engaged when I park the truck? I have a good idea how air brakes work, so I suppose this "locking" valve would work like that except basically opposite of a locking air brake valve, if that makes any sense.
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I replaced both rear calipers, rotors, pads, parking brake cables and it still sticks once in a while. I have played with the adjustment on the console many times, but to no avail. I have to crawl under the back and press the link up to unlock the parking brake. It's only about a 1/4 to 1/2 inch at most. Is there some type of spring I can use so it retracts all the time? I have seen Toyota's with them.
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I need to replace my parking brake, it is definitely on its way out.
What I wanted to know is, do I need a cable for each side or is there only one cable?
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I have an 03 JETTA TDI 5 SPEED WAGON with 216 on it. The parking brake alarm recently came on for no reason (as did the warning light) As soon as you move 50' it starts and wont stop until you stop the vehicle. I pulled the center console, unplugged the switch and it still did it. I jumped the 2 wires together and it still did it! I cut the wires at the point where they disappeared into the larger harness, it still did it!!! Why this is happening and if there is something besides the switch at the park brake lever that make the alarm go off?
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It's a 2003, 2.0, rear disks. If I take it apart and manually compress the piston with that rotating clamp that Autozone lent me I can put it back together and use it 2 or 3 times and then it's too tight and I have to take it all apart again. I don't have the cable hooked up, I just move the lever with my hand or a screwdriver.
I'm a little irritated cause I replaced this caliper last year. I remember finding a good description of how this device worked and now I can't find it again.
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I have a 2002 Jetta TDI with the grey leather parking brake handle cover and would like to replace it. How to do this and if I will have to remove the armrest & the plastic trim around the handle?
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On my wife's '06 Elantra, the hand brake is very hard to pull up, barely getting one click from it. I've done some looking around and have not been able to find a solution to the problem.
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Every time I speed up or slow down my ABS, TC and parking brake lights turn on and my car beeps at me. I'm assuming that I have a wheel speed sensor going out. But when I check the codes there is nothing and the check engine light never turns on, so how do you tell which one to replace? Or is my problem something different? I drive a 1999.5 vr6 Jetta.
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Last night it was just below freezing and the roads were a little damp so I figured I'd see at what point ESP would kick in on a hard 2nd gear pull. Sure enough power cuts off at around 4000-4500 rpm.
Turn "off" ESP, try another hard 2nd gear pull expecting some nice tire squeal but I get nothing and obviously still no traction from 4500-6000 rpm. Was my clutch slipping? Is ESP capable of knowing when the clutch is slipping (I would think it had nothing to do with it)? Maybe it was just damp enough that the rubber was spinning in one place but it wasn't making any/limited amount of noise?
Car: GTI, Manual, Stage 1, Winter Tires.
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Car won't hold an idle unless I'm on the gas, and even then it only goes to 500 rpm and the second I let off the gas it dies. It also will not go any past 500.
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My car is a 2001 Jetta 1.8t. the car is bone stock, I can not hold boost and it fluctuates all over the place. the dv sounded like a flutter until I bypassed the n249 now it sounds like a steady pssh. car still would only make 4lbs of boost and drop to 1-2lbs after 3500rpm. I pulled the line off the n75 to wastegate and did a pull. it boosted to 8lbs spiked to 15 and held 4lbs, if the tires spun it would spike to 12-15lbs and drop to 4 again. I replaced the n75 today and now will still spike high if I spin, with traction boosts about 8lbs which I believe is stock but then drops to 1-2 lbs then up to 4 down to 1-2 sometimes up to 6, it seems random. I also pinched off the dv to see if that was the problem but same thing.
I'm wondering how my car could lose boost with the wastegate actuator unhooked, I can not find a boost leak(not saying there isn't one, but haven't found one), the car holds more boost with the n75 unplugged and under acceleration, with n75 plugged in it seems like 3 surges per gear?
Car throws one code p1473 its an evap code.
The wastegate sounds like its closing when I pull the rod and let it go, lots of tension on it.
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I have seen a few thread about this on many VW sites. People with doors that when you unlock doors don't open from outside until you open from inside or you have to give the door a slight push closed and then it will click and open with 1 pull of outside handle. The problem is the door latch/striker whatever you wanna call it that mounts to the car body itself. It needs to be adjusted up or down just a bit. My pass door would not open with first pull then I read somewhere about people pushing door and then pulling on handle for it to open. So I went and played with latch. Moved it up about 3/16" and door works perfect.
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My left side, rear door I have to pull the handle two times to open the door.
1st time: opens 1/4 inch
2nd time: fully opens
I checked the problem a bit, saw the same problem on a MKV where they opened the handle and they had to adjust a little thingy ?
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I picked up a 2004 GTI not long ago for pretty cheap because it had a few issues. I am working my way through them. However, having 3rd gear issue.
All other gears are perfectly fine but there is way less play in the shifter in the 3rd gear position and I have to hold the shifter in position until the clutch is engaged (pedal up) to avoid the gear grinding. Once the clutch is engaged it stays in 3rd gear fine. It doesn't matter if I am moving from 2nd to 3rd or 4th to 3rd. Same deal. I have aligned the shifter several times using to proper procedures with no effect.
It never grinds 3rd with the clutch disengaged (so the synchro is fine?) and it will bang shift no problem. Oh and the clutch is less than a year old. It was installed by a shop before I bought the car. It's not really a big deal, but I would like to fix it. If I have to swap the trans that's fine, but need to figure out if it is a trans or linkage issue first.
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I can't figure if it's a TB issue as I've just had it replaced or a mount problem. I only get the knock on biting point idle and pull away under load. This noise is driving me insane.
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Had my car parked outside of work for about 12 hours yesterday, and in the NYC cold front, the parking break must have stuck on slightly. When I started to move, despite the fact I'd released the parking break, I received a warning in the MFI that said PARKING BREAK FAILURE TO RELEASE. I pulled the handle again and heard it pop just a little more off. Everything worked great after that. If I hadn't received the alert I probably would have driven off with it on. I'd probably have noticed the hesitation and checked the break again, but the alert was useful. Some of the warnings in the MFI can appear to be a pain at times, but it's amazing how thorough a job VW has done monitoring the cars systems and giving real time information if something doesn't work. You just have to make sure you don't get info overload from it all!!
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I have a 2001 F-350 Diesel 4x4 crew cab 8ft bed dually 7.3 diesel 6 speed. The issue is that the parking brake pedal is extremely hard to push. One day it pushed down and ratcheted into a locked position as normal and the next day I couldn't push it more than an inch down. I have rear disc brakes with internal drums in the rotors for the parking brake assembly. I replaced the shoes and hardware (which were fine) and I still have the same issue. I removed the front single cable from where it splits into the two rear ones and the foot pedal depresses smoothly and with the touch of a finger with no load on it. What else is it? The only other thing is one of the rear cables unless I am missing something?
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