Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Passenger Door Lock Intermittently Works / Battery Died
Aug 11, 2014
About 2 or so weeks ago, I picked up an .:R for a STEAL! I don't have all that much to complain about (because let's face it, it's an R32 ...) but I have noticed a few issues with it that I am hoping are related.
During one car ride I needed to charge my phone, but unfortunately the 12v port doesn't work (I checked all of the side panel fuses and even changed the whole jack, nothing). Another issue that I noticed, was that the passenger door lock intermittently works... sometimes it will work, and other times I have to unlock the door by opening it from the inside. On those freak occasions when it does work, than the driver's door lock won't work... That being irritating in itself, tonight I went to pop the hatch, and it wouldn't unlock! I had to put the key in to open it... that was the first time that I had encountered this issue...
My question is, could all of these issues be related somehow? I highly doubt that all of the lock modules are faulty.The PO did have a record about having the issue checked by the dealership, but they couldn't recreate it.
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I bought an '02 LE, 4 cyl w/123k miles and found electric issues. Are they somehow related and indicate a bigger issue? No lights by shifter (PRINDL). Auto shut-off for overhead light works intermittently. Driver door lock button works intermittently – at times when you pull to lock door it’s ok. At times it slides back and forth doing nothing, and can’t be locked manually w/ key or w/ remote. Driver and passenger windows kind of jump at start of open and end of close.
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Co-Worker's '03 Jetta TDI
Blower works intermittently. Sometimes all speeds will work. Sometimes only on high. Sometimes on all speeds but at a slower speed than normal. Sometimes it doesn't work on any speed.
Switch doesn't bind, blower motor doesn't make any unusual noises and I don't think it is the blower resistor. He did notice a strange odor coming from the vents the other day and, it appears that the foam on the blend door is starting to disintegrate.
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I just recently got a 2001 1.8t jetta. It was leaking coolant and only one fan would come on. Ive fixed the coolant leak. Only the passenger side fan comes on, and the AC blows hot as well. Ive checked the fuses on the battery and they are good.
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Just replaced the door lock up/down on a 2001 golf. After getting the door all back together I pulled the door open and the door handle popped out slightly at both ends. What happened? It now wont reset into the door flush like before.
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About 4 months ago I was at the gas station and when I tried opening my fuel door, the switch wasn't working. I went home, took the door trim off, and then removed the switch in order to clean it. Once I cleaned it, it worked but about every 3rd time that I clicked it. However, yesterday it finally gave out as I was at the gas station. So I came home and now I'm stuck because I don't want to break the fuel door.
I ran through the fuses in the fuse box but on the diagram none seem to be for the fuel door. The weird thing is that yesterday as the fuel door switch gave out, so did the interior door lock switch. Now I have to insert the key from the outside in order to enter the car. But the key cannot unlock the passenger door.
When I hit the interior door lock switch, I hear a click noise under the dash. I took a look under there and it seems to be a bunch of relays. It's very tough to tell which one is the one clicking.
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Been the proud owner of a '04 Golf for a few years but it hasn't been without its share of hiccups. I recently had my battery die on me. Got the car looked at and apparently the alternator was the culprit, ie, it wasn't functioning and re-charging the battery. Swapped out the OEM for a rebuilt Bosch 120A (my car is a 2.0GL, so it's supposed to be 90a default, but I looked online and saw that I could use the 120). Even put in a new battery as the old one was past its prime. Now the new alternator (which was not fun to install) isn't working either. I had a different mechanic look at it and they said that while the auto shop gave me the right part number, that apparently VWs are hinky with aftermarket parts and I'd have to take it to a VW dealer for a diagnostic? Makes no sense as I've seen tons of people online who've used aftermarket alternators with no problem.
So now the car essentially is dead in the water. Battery light comes on when the car is started and I'm not tempted to not drive the car anywhere out of fear that the new battery will die in mid-traffic. I've checked the grounds, pulley, etc, everything looks fine and connected proper. What could be going on?
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My wife and I just noticed today in our 2010 GTI that the rear passenger door does not lock at all. It does not matter if I use the remote or the one on the drivers door. Also when I use the remote, the alarm sets but when the back door is opened it doesn't go off.
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The remote locks on my 2000 Jetta GLX have been working intermittently for almost a year. I had been using the manual key to lock/unlock until finally the manual lock alarm disarm also became intermittent and I found myself stuck at a truck rest stop at 1:30 a.m. with my alarm repeatedly howling into the night and no way to disarm it. I felt caught. I felt trapped. Like I was found guilty of a crime I had never committed. I knew then - I had work to do.
My research in the forums indicated that the door lock assembly was a common culprit - a gremlin, often leaving headaches as it's only calling card. I worked quick, pulling a driver's side door lock assembly out of 2003 at the local junkyard and replacing it no problem. To my surprise, although this DID fix the manual locking/unlocking/alarm disarming problem, it DID NOT fix the remote unlock problem. The culprit was still at large.
Business as usual with intermittent remote unlocking/locking/trunk-popping for weeks until my dash threw the "AIR BAG FAULT" light. I decided to question a local garage owner who's VAGCOM told me that it was caused by something on the driver's side door. He was busy, but it reset fine and I was on my way. I know now that I should have asked for the code then but I was caught in the beauty of a girl who only nails polish was the grease and dirt of the car she worked under. And about a mile down the road, the light came back on.
Now, the "AIR BAG FAULT" light is on as soon as I start the car. However, the time seems to vary slightly before the Jetta beeps and tells me in faded red letters "AIR BAG FAULT". Sometimes right when I leave my driveway, sometimes not before I drive a mile or two down the road. My remote unlock is still working intermittently.
I need both my airbag fault and the remote unlock fixed. I'm wondering if these two problems are related? Like maybe there's a loose connection that is causing the airbag sensor to short and it's beeping when it bumps out of place and maybe the intermittent remotes are being caused by slamming of my driver's side door too hard & it's losing a connection as well. I tried putting a little conductivity jelly in the female clip that goes to the window regulator motor because I heard that the airbag sensor is in there somewhere but it didn't make a difference.
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I have this problem with both the key fobs provided with my 2007 UK spec. Santa Fe 2.2crdi: The fob works only intermittently to lock/unlock the doors. I have replaced the CR2032 batteries, and the red light on the fob works as well. Is there a sensor that needs cleaning/adjusting?
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My MKV R32 is door-addled...
Sometimes the symptoms are: passenger door won't lock or unlock electronically, opening from outside in "locked" state sets off alarm. Fob will reset it.Other times the symptoms are: passenger door will lock electronically but won't unlock electronically, so have to use lever from inside to let passengers in. Intermittently broken in one way or the other. Windows and the rest still work. This happens whether using the fob or the internal controls. Annoying! I'm told there is a door electronics module that needs some re-soldering perhaps...
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I went to grab my laptop out of my car this morning and my passenger side door wont unlock. I tried with the remote, then i tried using the button on the drivers door, then i tried the button on the passenger door and none of them worked. I don't hear as much as a pin drop sound coming from the pass. door so im thinking maybe its just a fuse or something...didn't get a chance to look at it..
Why I didnt think of it this morning, but i opened the door from the inside, remembering how when you do so, it pushes up the lock...that seemed to be enough to fix it...works fine now..weird..
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I have intermittent excessive wind noise from the top of my passenger door. The dealer claims they can't hear it, so I will take matters into my own hands. The driver's door was not aligned correctly when I bought the car but the dealer adjusted it correctly, so I am wondering if the passenger door could just be too far outward. Other than adjusting the door striker inward are there any other adjustments or is there a common issue that could cause the wind noise?
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I am having a problem with one door lock on my Golf. The problem is with the left rear door. There are no issues unlocking it using either the fob or the driver door button. It also locks using the driver door. However, it does not lock using the fob.
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I put a new door lock actuator in my drivers door today. The key locks the door just fine but when I return it to center it unlocks the door. If I take the key out and just tap the key cylinder it unlocks again. Is there any adjustment I haven't found yet to the key cylinder or actuator?
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I just replaced my door latch module (drivers side) on my 2002 gti 1.8t. Now I can't unlock or lock my doors using the key fob or the door controls inside. I'm stuck....
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I have a persistent prob with the lock mechanism on the rear door of my mk4 golf, I don't suppose there is a picture tutorial on this subject. I have looked but can only find for the front door.
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I am having issues with the door lock module.
I cannot open it with the remote or manually with the key. So i took the whole door apart and took out the actuator module thing and pulled it apart and checked all switches and solder joints and fixed them all and put back together to test and it still doesn't work. It doesn't seem like there is any power going to the module. I just plugged in the connector into the module and tried to test it and nothing.
I activate the micro switch for the door and the interior lights don't go on or off. They are off. Also when i put the key in ignition there is no noise and turning headlights on there is no noise. The last time i was working on the car was when everything was working and that was last Saturday. I opened the hood and shut the door and it locked itself but when i shut the hood the alarm went off and was a solid noise not a chirp or pulsation alarm noise. So i hit the unlock button on my remote and that fixed it.
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Any VCDS instructions to reset?
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I bought my car and I can't use the key to lock my car from distance, change the battery on my key, but it's not it. How I could fix it? It has to be the main car why my remote doesn't work..
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Before I changed my driver's lock module, when I removed my key and opened the door, the car would still have power to close the sunroof and windows, but now with the new module once I open the door the power's all off. I have to resort to everything closing when I lock the car (KVW100).
Why this is happening and how I can revert to being able to close the windows without having to leave the key in? Not that it's a huge issue; just felt it was a nicer convenience how it used to be.
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