Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Paint Begun Chipping Off
Dec 10, 2014
I've got some parts of the pain on my reflex silver wagon that have begun chipping off of the rear bumper near the edge. I'm assuming the PO was trying to lift something into the back and didn't quite make it high enough...a few times. Anyway, the surface underneath the paint is black, so I'm assuming it's plastic.
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The top of my cars paint is chipping off. Is there a way to stop the process from getting worse?
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Problem with the paint chipping/flaking on the hood of a 2010 LE? I have three spots, about 1/16"-1/8" on my hood that have chipped/flaked and you can see the primer. I don't think that I have been hit by flying debris but that's not to say that it couldn't be the case. I'm thinking of mentioning it to the dealer when I go in for my 20K service just so it is on record should there be some future TSB/recall for a paint problem. Car has been on the road for 18 months.
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My 2013 Red Prius C started to chip on the door edges around 6 months after purchase. My guess is it has something to do with the extremely thin/light metal used to make the car and the quality of the paint. I've owned the car for 2 1/2 years now and the problem is only getting worse. The dealership says I'm the only person to ever have this issue and blamed me.
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So I saw these really cool Nissan wounded warrior project pics and get a little inspired to "army out" my excursion. The paint on it is checking/chipping real bad so I need to deal with it, and vinyl wrap is cheap enough so here I go!!
Problem is I'm having a terrible time picking something I can:
1) Desert Tan/Black combo
2) Tan Everything
3) Nato Olive
4) Just gloss / wet black the whole thing, murder it out
Here are some pics and some work in progress. I can't decide....
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Having problems with the paint chipping on the rear bumper? Dealer said on the phone paint is only covered if it rusts. Will bring it in tomorrow for them to check, but I'm not getting a good feeling that they will cover it. Car has only 3500 miles on it! Bumper shouldn't be chipping like this.
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I washed our 2010 Corolla today and was in the process of wiping down the rims when I noticed they all have this funny corrosion looking thing happening to all of them at the center of each rim.
The vehicle has scheduled maintenance coming up at the dealer so I am just going to show them the rims when I take it in next week.
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Seems like the black paint on the back of all our mufflers slowly but surely disappears. I'm guessing high heat - flat black (if such a thing exists) would be the way to go.
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On my Phaeton, I've got some paint chipping right below one of the rear tail lights. It is strange since this is not an area that would get any type of abuse, and I don't think the tail lights have been removed before. I am wondering if this is something that I could touch up myself. If not, should I get a dealer to look at it?
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It appears it is mostly surface rust and am looking for something relatively simple to fix it. I would prefer to use something in aerosol cans since it is small amount of total area, maybe Rustoleum products?
I will attempt to remove as much of the rust as possible with circular wire brush on drill but feel there will still be little crevices that I won't be able to fully clean.
I'm also interested in knowing what I should use to harden the surface to prevent the excessive chipping of paint in this area.
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I bought my mk4 GTi about a year ago. The paint around the rear wheel well all the way down to the rocker started to bubble quickly and I can see now it's all rotted. Looks like someone covered it up for a quick sale as it all happened very quickly. Anyway, I'm now looking to repair this and want to make sure I take the best route. I linked some pictures. I've been told to cut it out, weld a patch panel, and epoxy primer then build with bondo and go through painting procedure.
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2002 3.0, 43,000 miles. Intermittent 'chirping' has begun. Is this the "wear indicator" on the belt tensioner? If so, what is it telling me? And where do I put the breaker bar to slack off tension...Red Arrow, or Blue arrow? They both look like bolts...I was expecting to see a 3/8" square opening...and do I turn clockwise or CCW to slack it all...
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As would be expected things deteriorate on a 16-year-old truck. My alarm has, on a few occasions, decided to annoy anyone around by activating for no apparent reason. This has happened in various conditions (in the parking lot, in the driveway, right after I've driven it, or sitting half the night). I chalked it up to aging circuitry.
Now I've picked up something new. Over the last few weeks my truck may or may not arm. It seems to be a flip of the coin. I'll drive to the store and I push the button on my remote and the truck goes "beep"..."beep". 10 minutes later I drive home, park the truck, push the remote, and the truck goes "beep"...and that's it. My alarm light is blinking two quick flashes when this happens.
Since this has started my truck has begun randomly having a delayed start. I'll disarm the truck, turn the key, and nothing happens for about 1 second or so (seems longer) then the truck starts normally.
Both of these issues started pretty close to the same time. I would normally go straight for a starter issue but I don't know if these might be related. I'm the second owner so have absolutely no idea about the Ford anti-theft system, how it's connected, or what the blinking lights mean.
I'm considering disconnecting the anti-theft system to see if that makes a difference but, as stated, how it's connected, what I might disable, or how it works. Was there any documentation published on it?
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So I got my Gas Tank Fix done a couple weeks back, and ever since (at least that I can remember) whenever the car turns on I get this 1-2 second wiff of a paint smell kinda....like something was freshly painted, then it goes away almost instantly.
Do you think something happened to my car at the dealer and they covered it up? Seems weird though, you'd think you'd be able to smell the paint more often.
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I have a set of V Maxx's on my car for a couple of months...and i noticed that the red paint on the spring is starting to flake off...is there anything i could do to re-coat them or something? this happened on my patec coilovers on my MK IV.
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What is the paint code for the mirror caps that are painted high gloss black ? I have to replace mine and they don't come painted smh
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So just came out to my car this morning and noticed this horrible paint peeling on my rear drive side fender!! Yes I'm lowered but have stock wheels and 225 tires, impossible to run the outside fender. What caused this? The paint is like paper is just flakes off when I touch it.
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Brakes: Current setup has over 40,000 miles. OEM rotors with Hawk HPS pads. Stiffing kit aka brass bushings installed. Brakes feel rough. Having problems with sticking and ABS on one side. I switched the pads and the sliders from left to right. The problem seems to have moved when pads and sliders were switched around. Possible solutions: brake caliper rebuild. I already bleed the brakes and clutch out. What pads should I use next? Is braided lines a good idea??
Paint: Front bumper is shot, hood has rock chips, mirrors need work out and rear bumper could use a lil love. Should I paint these parts Reflex silver? Paint the whole car again?? Or wrap the car? What about wrapping the whole car? Matte silver? Brushed Silver? Shiny Silver? Or maybe a camo wrap? What's ya input, how bout I rattle can these parts?? Show car or street brawler??
TIRES: My Nitto NT05's have about 2/32's left. Good dry grip, tons of DRY grip but everything else is just ok. Cost, weight, wet traction, comfort, looks, noise and vibration are all OK. Tire wear is less than expected. I KNOW that the Michelin Super Sports are the TOP TIRE right now. Everything about the Super Sport is great! But, I'm hearing the Hankook RS3's are the best bang for the buck. I also heard that the Falken 452 is being replaced by the 453 AS WE SPEAK. I need a cost effective tire with good dry grip, good wet grip, decent noise and vibration with good wear rating. The Michelin fits the bill but they a Lil expensive. What tires should I consider?
Vag-Com: I got codes to read, you'll. Airbag light on, I wanna find the problem and FIX IT. My laptop computer is weak. I don't wanna get a cable and a disc for VAG. What are my other options? I wanna be able to erase codes and realign my throttle body. Other than VAG-COM how can I read and erase codes??
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I have a 2012 prius 2 with persona wheels on it. These persona wheels only have about 500 miles on them but are already showing random chips and they have never been curbed. These rims are not cheap and I'm concerned.
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Problem is two fold. First......my grill "Ford" emblem is chipping and fading. Second....there is rust along the inside edge of the tailgate near the weep holes. I have been told the rust must perforate the area in order for it to be covered by warranty. Truck is pretty close to pristine condition and two service reps said rust is coming from the inside of the tailgate. Doesn't make sense to me to wait for the rust to get really nasty before it being covered by warranty. I bet a new tailgate cost more than that!!!! Hey whats the deal with the eroding "Ford" emblem??? Looks like the coating is flaking off and letting the blue paint fade away. I don't think this is normal but that too doesn't seem to be covered by warranty !! Maybe I should think twice about my next vehicle !!!!! Comments ??????
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I have a small area in the hood (2008) with paint bubbled up.
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