Golf IV / Jetta IV :: P0172 Code / Seems Like Consuming Oil Fairly Quickly
Nov 11, 2015
I have a 4 door 1.8t AWW
Like I said in the title I keep getting the P0172 and can't seem to shake it no matter what I do. I believe the car is in soft limp mode as I can't boost above 5 psi. I'm also consuming oil fairly quickly (atlas 2 quarts in a span of 2-3 months), no smoke out back though. I did find that the whole PCV system underneath the plenum was wet, but nothing else was? Checked the PCV valve and it seemed operational and didn't stay open. Check PCV system for cracks and was unable to see any which added to the confusion.
Thing's I've done to try and fix problem:
-replaced breather hose because of crack
-went through all the vacuum lines and replaced where needed
-have two n75j's that I'm unsure if they work or not (is n75j the stock valve for the AWW?)
-cleaned the maf
-replaced valve cover gasket
-changed plugs
-replaced dv with splitter
Other things for diagnose:
-little wet around 2 of the injectors on top of the plenum (old o rings?)
-when running splitter full atmospheric I can hit 10psi but with it closed off can't get past 5psi
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I have a mk4 jetta vr6 200,000 miles with a bigger pcv and a cold air intake ( universal) and silicone vacuum hoses and secondary water pump delete and exhaust. (Just a little info) I seem to have a lot of blow by and its been eating 2qts or so of oil between oil changes. I am using 20w50 castrol gtx high mileage and a locus and is still eating it (2qts). I do drive it hard and race so I figured it would be fine the thicker oil plus arizona heat. I am thinking maybe more lucas additive about 40% of lucas and 60% 20w50. Just trying to keep it running support the worn seal and compression and horsepower and of course oil lose. It is such a pleasure to drive and race.
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Whenever P0411 triggers for me, it is very late into driving (i.e. like 30 minutes into the freeway type of situation) where the engine has already hit optimal temperature. I've gone 1000 miles after reset before it triggers. Sometimes 200 or so miles, but it never triggers quickly after a reset. I'm unsure if it matters, but the VR6 does have a cold air intake (and I do have the breather hose connected & maf correctly connected). I'm pointing it out because p0411 became an issue about 500 miles after I had installed the cold air intake.
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While lifting my 2003 Mitsu. Eclipse (manual) to replace a sway bar link, i was also checking on some other things and had the car running. It was in neutral yet the tires were spinning fairly quickly, and I dare say more on the driver side than the passenger side. Obviously this is a tranny issue, so I want to figure out what's going on pretty quickly. A quick note- depressing the clutch stops the power transfer completely.
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As the title says. Last night my MKIV started this jump in the steering. No load or decelerating, the wheel does a pulse or jump, fairly violent. I drove ten miles with no problem, then a couple jumps, then fine. Pulled tires and inspected, checked bearings, tie rods, ball joints. nothing obvious. Could it be something in the power steering?
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2004 Jetta 1.8t manual, sport package with about 85,000 miles on it and I've owned it since new.
About a year ago I had a shop replace the strut bearings while it was in for some other things. After I picked it up my alignment was jacked and there was a binding sound coming from the front end. The shop said the sound was just the springs settling in. It did go away after a while. Still don't understand why the alignment was off but I aligned it myself and all was good for a while.
About two weeks ago I myself replaced:
Lower control arms (stock VW) and ball joints (FEQ or Lemforder, not sure which) with R32 rear bushings and poly front (I HATE poly bushings but that's for another time)
Tie rod ends (FEQ)
Front brakes & rotors (stock VW)
I also threw in a oem Audi lower stress brace while I was under there but I don't think that has anything to do with my problem. Then I took it to a shop to have an alignment done on it. Everything is now within spec except that the caster is 6.6 degrees on the left front and 6.2 degrees on the right front. How does this happen?
So now my problem: There is a fairly loud binding sound coming from the front of the car randomly. It sounds like the coil spring is binding but maybe it is something else? it mostly does it when I reverse for a bit and then put it in first and drive forward or forward then reverse so something is shifting front to back. Steering doesn't really seem to have any noticeable effect.
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I have a 2002 Volkswagen Golf 2.0, I was driving and the temperature gauge starting raising pretty quickly. I stopped, checked the coolant and oil, both were at normal levels. The car cooled down pretty quickly, and I drove a little and it raised again. The heat is coming out cold despite the hot temperature. Overheating, normal coolant levels, no heat.
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My 2003 GTI 24V VR6 is leaking coolant pretty quickly from the passenger side of the engine compartment. I have a new water pump in hand. If I'm replacing the water pump, would it be smart to go ahead and order a thermostat and metal crack-pipe to replace at the same time that I'm having the water pump installed? I'd hate to get the water pump installed, and find out that the leak is at the crack pipe.
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As the title says it all I have a 2010 Malibu LS with roughly 88k on it and just noticed that the CEL light came on last weekend. On Monday the light went ahead but it came back on this morning. Took it to Autozone and the error code was P0172, Fuel System Too Rich, Bank 1. I noticed this happened last weekend after putting in some gas at QT. The Autozone guy recommended some fuel injector cleaner as a starting point and recommended using pure gasoline (premium).
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I have a 2003 Ford Taurus. It has been running rough for awhile. It doesn't happen all the time, alas. I took it to my local repair guy. They first said, oh this happens when the AC is on. But I knew it happened otherwise.
The check engine light came on yesterday, blinking, but didn't stay on. And it was running rough. Check engine light came on, on a Sunday so I had to wait until Monday to bring the car in. They just called and said they can't find anything wrong, ran it on the computer, says it's running fine. I said, did you check the spark plugs, wires, etc? (I am good at googling, to be armed with some kind of info)
I am thinking they just put it on the computer. I suppose it has to be running bad to show anything (?) and even then, it's no guarantee. Anyway. It seems like I am "sentenced" to driving this car until it strands me, catches on fire (I read about that possibility and I have on occasion smelled something burning), or if luck has it, when it is running rough, and I bring it in while it's running rough, the computer finds the problem.
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So my truck is reading a code at P0172 which means bank one is too rich. I replaced all of my o2 sensors, cleaned my MAF, and replaced PCV and hoses connected to it. What else could it be?
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I have a 2005 F150 Fx4 5.4 that keeps throwing a p0172 code. I've replaced all spark plugs, C.O.P's, fuel injectors, Mass airflow sensor, 1 o2 sensor, checked all vac lines and there ok.
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Having some idling issues. Pulled codes P0172 and P0304. Basically running rich on fuel bank 1 and misfire on cylinder number 4. My question is what is the locations of each...? From what I have read number 4 cylinder is closest to the drivers side and fuel bank 1 is on the passengers side. I have changed the MAF, plugs and checked the ignition coils. All looks to be good. I am guessing possibly fuel injector?
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Recently, I got a error code of P0172, that indicate mixture correction (bank 1) rich. Actually, air filter and spark plug have been replaced.
My avante is only 4 years. and 70k mileage. By the way, I found the engine shake heavily when idling.
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What may be the issue with my truck. Drove earlier in the day and hauled trailer. Ran fine. Got it home and once I unloaded trailer and went to start up truck again it died a minute into backing up. I tried to restart and turns over but dies in 3-5 seconds. Tried again a few hours later and next morning and same thing.
Pulled code and came up P0172- Bank 1 running rich. I had replaced the Mass Air Flow sensor a few months ago. Since it was still under warranty I went and got a new one in case that was the issue, but didn't fix. When I try to start it smells like gas. Sounds like fuel pump is coming on fine. Checked air filter.
Of course is still hooked up to the trailer and in a tight spot in the yard at the moment so anything basic/inexpensive I can try myself first would be great.
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My wife and I just bought a used 2006 Honda Civic LX with about 90K miles. It's going through about 1qt of oil every 500 miles. No puddles or oil leaks on the driveway and the engine is clean of leaking oil. What could be causing this? Could this be attributed to a crack in the engine block? Cracked blocks are known to be a problem with this model and year and the subject of a tech note by Honda and they have extended the warranty to 8 years because of it. Have others had this problem? The car was serviced by a local dealer, Boch Honda in MA, by the previous owner and has had the oil changed every 3K miles. I have all the documentation.
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My 95 Bonne with 3.8L uncharged engine (90 k miles) is consuming coolant. No external leaks (hoses, clamps, core plugs, water pump, radiator, heater or overflow tank). Coolant side pressure checked hot & cold OK. Coolant sniffed for exhaust; none detected. Here is the crux: the exhaust pipe drips GREEN LIQUID. Engine runs fine (for now).
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My battery died quick and my car doesn't start anymore it starts but it's turns right bak off I scanned it and code p0688 came out something about a relay.
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I picked up a 03 Jetta TDI about a month ago to use as a daily driver so I could park my Jeep. This is my first diesel so still getting used to some of the quirks and what is normal and what is not.
First problem is a CEL with the code P0401 - Exhaust gas recirculation flow insufficient detected. Now there seems to be a lot of information online about this and how to fix it and everything has something different to say. I live in a cold climate, its already -2 and going to get to -20 - -30 at some points so I'm not looking to to a EGR delete as my understanding is that it takes longer to heat up?
Next, being my first diesel, I'm used to turning heat on and driving for a minute and having heat. Not so much in the Jetta. It can idle for 20 minutes before I head out the door and its throwing warm air but the engine temp is a dead 0. Not until I get on the highway and drive for another 15 min do I actually start getting close to operating temp. Being its only about 0 celsius at the moment...
Other trouble spot is the steering, considering this thing weights next to nothing and has tiny wheels, it is about 4x harder to turn the wheel then it is in the Jeep on 35's. I also seem to get this shrieking/whining from the engine bay about 5-10% of the time when moving the steering wheel and the vehicle is under 5 km/h.
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just bought an mk4 1.8 jetta and so I love it, however I'm having a couple issues. I've got a cel for code p0010 something about the camshaft position sensor. I changed the sensor with a new one and the problem is still there. I've got pretty much full power but no turbo spool and my boost gauge tops out at 5-6 psi.
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Yesterday I went to star my 2.0 Jetta and it instantly starting sputtering at idle. After maybe a minute of sputtering the car died. Tried restarting it and it would instantly die after starting. Car threw code P0300: Random Misfire.
As of today the car now runs again with no problems. No codes. I didn't touch a thing and it seems to have resolved itself.
The entire engine bay was wet from condensation due to temperature change. Is there any way this could've contributed to the misfiring? I'm thinking the spark plug wires might have gotten wet and that was causing the misfire.
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