Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Overfilling Trans Causing Hard Shifts - Check Engine Light Came On
Jul 12, 2014
Will overfilling transmission fluid cause hard shifts? I used ~4.3 quarts to refill. How much should I drain out? My check engine light came on.
Basically, I am having hard shifts from 2-3 and 3-4 in tip mode and auto. more tip mode tho.
-I did a complete solenoid change b/c of cold start problem with n92 solenoid.
Fixed the cold start shifting out of first.
-Did a trans fluid change with Mercon V ATF Fluid works fine.
-Just changed oil on 4th of July last week.
Yesterday my check engine light came on. It's been about 500 miles since the solenoid change/trans fluid change, and 100 miles since the oil change.
Now my Mk4 is having this obnoxious shifting. I am thinking I possibly added too much trans fluid into my system as I do not have the VAGcom tool.
I drained out (bone dry drain till no more dripping from check/drain plug), roughly 4 quarts. I added 4.3 give or take 0.1 quarts back into the car.
Now I'm worried because everywhere I'm reading says anywhere from as little as 2.1 quarts to 3.5 quarts.
Should I drain out 0.5 quarts (because I know theres over 4 in there now) to make it 3.5 quarts?
Or should I just redrain the whole thing and start by measure one quart at a time?
View 4 Replies
Advertisement
I have 99 f350 v10 4x4 and trans shifts great under light rpms but 2-3 shifts very hard. At wide open from about 35 mph it will shift down and take off like a bullet but wont shift until I lift my foot and then it bangs hard from 2-3. All other gears are smooth. I did some searching and have found some threads saying it could be an accumulator spring that is broken? Truck has 115,000 miles on it. love the truck but want to fix this before it does some damage.
View 1 Replies
My brother has a 2005 MKIV Jetta 1.8T with the auto transmission. He called me this morning saying that his check engine light came on this morning (a regular occurrence; it's not flashing) and the car is 'shifting funny.' He said that the car is not shifting out of first gear until about 3000 rpm, and when it does it's a 'hard shift' with an audible clunk/thump, then it shifts fine after that. He's has a number of small issues with this car lately, but nothing strange with the transmission.
View 1 Replies
a 2011 jetta. brake pedal is hard no pumping action. The car show check engine. The idle is not smooth.
View 2 Replies
1999 Jetta MK4 with only 124k miles on it. Everything is fine with the car except when the car shifts from 2nd to 3rd it is jerky/violent/forceful everything else is good with car except check engine light is on but I don't really care about that and I'll go check with autozone to see what the code is. I am able to feather the gas when I know its going to shift and I can make the shift pretty smooth. My question to all the experts is does this mean that this tranny is on its last leg or does it still have a lot of life left in it. My old Cabriolet did it for years and never was a problem.
View 5 Replies
I have a 2001 Mazda Tribute with 141,000 miles. Recently, I've burned up both O2 sensors causing the check engine light to come on. My mechanic has replaced each and they've burned out again. The head gasket was replaced after that, to no avail. The check engine light continues to come on after being cleared in the computer. I have also noticed that on humid days, the car misfires on at least one cylinder., but any other time, it seems fine. What to check next? My mechanic is at a loss.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2002 Elantra GLS with the 4 speed auto and in the mornings or after sitting in lot at work for 9 hours, the trans shifts hard from second to third (almost as if it has a shift kit) and slips a little from third to fourth. The TPS was changed once and that seemed to eliminate problems at the 26K mark. I have 109K on it now and at around 80k took it in to the dealer with the receipt for the same complaint and what was done the first time. Dealer kept overnight and said there were no problems. I do know from having a performance TH350 built that the harder a trans shifts (up to a point) the longer it will last due to less friction on clutches and bands.
View 6 Replies
I have the p0734 and p0732 codes. Thing is it shifts hard into second and wont go into overdrive when first started. After about ten minutes of drive time you shut it off and turn it back on and the thing shifts perfectly. No hard shifts and overdrive works then check engine light turns off. The pulse generators have been replaced when i purchased car. It is an 02 accent with 90,000 miles.
View 3 Replies
2001 GL 1.5 Litre. Car occasionally hesitates a little with AC off, but runs pretty well. But with the air conditioner on?
Stalls about 50% of time when backing with A/C on. From stoplights, sputters all the way through intersections with A/C on, sometimes backfires. On a few occasions, the Check Engine light will blink on and off while it's doing this. After it gains a little speed/rpm, though, it's all good again, light goes back off.
Had full tune-up just before we bought it 4,000 miles ago. Air filter clean. Not sensors, because the CEL goes back off by itself. What the heck? How could the A/C cause a backfire?
View 4 Replies
2007 escape 4wd 3.0. I've notice some random hard shifts for the past month and today the trans has trouble shifting out of 1st. If I get the rpms between 3,000-4,000 and ease off the accelerator pedal it shifts into 2nd without drama. It will not shift at lower rpms with the same easing off the pedal. The trans light is steadily blinking.
View 7 Replies
So for the past few weeks my check engine light has been on. I have a mechanic friend that scanned the computer and says i have a running lean code.... says it could be anything. So i have been driving the car since and now the epc light and drive train lights are coming on... car revs up and down and sounds like is going to die... got the car scanned and says something about the throttle position sensor... before all the lights started coming on i got my fuel pump replaced..... could a faulty fuel pump be the cause? I had my mechanic, clean the throttle body and it ran good for a few days... now the problem is back... I have a 2004 1.8 gti. Do i have to replace the throttle position sensor? Fuel pump again? New throttle body again? I read somewhere on here that a guy replaced some wires near the ECM and the problem went away...
View 7 Replies
While braking, the car is revving up to about 1500 rpm and causing the vehicle to shudder and buck as if it wants to take off with no throttle input. The car is an automatic and this is the information relayed to me via my sister.
The car is a 2002 Jetta 2.0 automatic wagon.
View 4 Replies
I have a 1997 Dodge Neon with about 153,XXX miles on it. My check engine light has been on and i know that is caused by a random misfire. But more recently i went to start my car and it started but ran for less then 10 seconds and died. I tried to start it again and it wanted to but wouldnt make the final step i guess. We checked my spark plugs and i had oil sitting in 3 of the 4 there are. We have tried starting it again after cleaning the oil out and it started on the first try, I am just afraid of messing anything else up so until we figure out why it did this to begin with the vehicle is off limits. My Fiance said we need to replace the spark plugs and a gasket.
View 4 Replies
While driving up a long hill on the highway, one of the cylinders quit firing causing a bad engine vibration and check engine light. I turned around and drove home, pulled the plugs, and found the plug closest to the passenger side had bridged. I'm not sure why; it almost looked like it melted or had some sort of physical damage. This was on a 2013 Sonata Limited 2.0t with 45000 km / 28500 miles.
Pictures here: Spark plug failure - Album on Imgur
View 6 Replies
I have a 2002 prius with 143,000 miles. On Friday, I went to start my car and put it in gear and the check engine light came on and the "triangle of death" lit up and car died. I turned it off and waited about 30 seconds and tried starting it again. It started and I drove 1/2mile home. Went into the garage and got the Actron/OBDII code reader. Pulled the code P3125 which when I googled it, it was referring to the inverter. I cleared the code and all was well.
View 6 Replies
2001 7.3 auto, 2wdr, 291,000, Transmission sometimes shifts hard from 1st-2nd, 2nd-3rd. Problem started after I found trans dip stick tube broken and loss of fluid. Anything I can do without going to a shop. I've replaced the Broken Tube.
View 2 Replies
So I get back from being stationed in Korea for the past 2 years. I get my car out of storage and the check engine light is on. I scan it and get P0601. I do some searching on the Tex and see that it's the ecu. I'm tuned on APR. the question is can I take it to a local APR dealer here in Houston and get the ecu looked at?
View 6 Replies
I'm new to the VW world and just bought a 2002 Jetta 1.6SR about two weeks ago. I just realized that when I turn the ignition on before cranking, all the lights come up except the CEL and traction control light. There are no codes stored when we checked it with a scanner. I took apart the cluster today to check if someone had taped in front of the LED but there was nothing, and the LED was intact, it just won't light up! I put everything back together and when I turned the ignition on.
I realized that the traction control light came on for the first time but still nothing for the CEL. I turned ignition off and on again, this time both the traction control and CEL didn't come on. Whenever I unplug the cluster and install it again, the traction control light will come on once, then if I turn the ignition off then on again, it will stop working. I even removed the MAF sensor to test the CEL but it never came on! All the fuses are intact as well... So my question is, is this a faulty cluster, LED, or is something wrong with my ECU?
View 1 Replies
2002 Santa Fe, 2.7 AWD
The transmission has started going into limp mode and causing the check engine light to come on.
The codes given are p0750 and.... I think p0751, for shift solenoids C and D. There is also the generic Transmission Control Module code.
Limp mode only occurs at higher speeds although shifting feels a little rough at times in lower speeds.
If operated in manual mode the vehicle can be driven normally at all speeds without going into limp mode.
Fluid levels are fine.
With limp mode occurring in automatic but not occurring in manual mode, is it more reasonable to believe the solenoids are malfunctioning or the control module itself? I'm inclined to replace the solenoids but find it odd that the vehicle operates normally in manual. Also, can the solenoids be replaced without removing the transmission? It looks like I could get the pan off but am unsure if there is room to get the work done once it is removed.
View 2 Replies
2012 Elantra - 105,000 miles 6 speed transmission
Throttle seems to be sticking and causing engine to rev between shifts, and staying slightly on after I let off the gas
Engine continues to rev up uncontrollably for about 10 seconds after feathering the gas pedal (between shifts). If I floor the gas pedal and release it quickly, it closes the throttle and fixes the issue.
Thought it may be a sticky throttle body, sprayed a generous amount of Carb and Choke cleaner into throttle body...did NOT resolve the issue. Its a Drive by wire, so no throttle cable to blame or to clean.
Turns out, the accelerator pedal assembly it self, is not returning/springing back to "up" or closed position and is sticking during the first few degrees of travel. It is very dirty, and gold.
How to clean/lubricate this thing? Its plastic. Or should I just order the replacement? I hope the pedal isn't programmed to the car itself? shouldn't be...but you never know
View 2 Replies
Getting an emissions code. I deleted the emissions with the delete kit. Used the plug in resistors that came with the kit that is supposed to keep the cel off. Here's the code.
P1426 evap emission system purge control valve circuit open .
View 3 Replies
