2001 Jetta 1.8t... Recently made a change in the engine head because in broke the timing belt and had to do valves etc., the car was without power(battery disconnected almost a month), now when it start, a light(symbol orange)comes in the cluster and the engine shuts off, what is causing this problem.
View 10 Replieshave a 2000 golf TDI 5 SPD Manuel. Was driving into work today and I got on the gas a bit and all the sudden the battery light comes on I hear the beep dash noise and my guage cluster shuts off. I pull into work. Car seems to be running fine.. All belts intact. battery brand new. Car starts and operates fine. At idle dash works. But when I tap the accelerator pedal that's when dash shuts off and battery light comes on. Bizarre. I checked a few fuses not exactly sure which one would be bad but. I didn't see any popped ones. I did notice that my top cluster of fuses all the connecting points are browning but fuses are good. So I am not sure if it was already like that....
View 4 Repliesdriving my '06 f250 last night, i noticed a couple random dots and dashes of orange on the warning light cluster. upon shining a flashlight on it, realized it's the ABS light (or what's left of it). there's literally 2 tiny sections of it visibly lit up. Upon shutting the truck off, and just turning the key on, I noticed the whole middle row in the warning light cluster isn't illuminating with the key on. top row (turn signals, high beams, "wrench") and bottom row all seem to illuminate fine during start up and key on. I'm mainly nervous that the check engine light could turn on and i wouldn't know. is it possible that one row of the warning lights could go out? and only partially? seems strange....
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I have a 2.0 Avh jetta. Around January I started getting intermittent cel coming up. I pulled the code back then and it said it was misfiring cylinders. It'd give me some rough idling when it was on. Since then the light would come on during wet weather. About a week ago the light came on and stayed on. I haven't been able to pull a code recently though to see if it is the same as before (cant get vcds to connect to my car for some reason).
My car has randomly died with a battery light (electronics stay on, engine shuts off) and I know this is pretty dangerous but it hasn't happened on a main road. I replaced the coilpack yesterday and planned to change the spark plugs as well but the spark plugs turned out to be more than i was equipped for (i do have them). Since I replaced the coilpack the car no longer rough idles but it did shut off with the battery light coming on. I'm really trying to avoid taking it in somewhere but I'm starting to think that is my only option left.
Should also add that the car starts up just fine initially but after a random battery light shut off it is a hard start and sometimes takes a few tries...
I have 2003 Jetta GLI 24V VR6 original owner right from the showroom floor. Just the other day I was driving to work and all of the sudden the rpm's dropped the oil light came on (Beeping) and the car shuts off. I had just changed the oil several days ago and I know the oil level is correct and I check again and the oil level is correct.
So I started of very easy, like most blogs say "oil Sender"...replaced that and after driving for about 20 to 25 minutes...the same thing. So I also replace the oil pump and after driving 20 to 25 minutes the same thing.
No oil leaks. Oil pan is not cracked. So now I am at a loss. I have owned the car from day one and it is very well maintained.
I started the car one morning after it snowed. the red "BRAKE" light is constantly on and while the car is moving it beeps which is extremely annoying.. I have tried:
-Topping off brake fluid
- another ebrake sensor (under the center console)
- brake pads have plenty of meat on them
- brake light are working
I'm finishing up the install of my sequential shift light and I integrated it into the oem gauge cluster. [IMG][/IMG]
View 3 RepliesLooking for some hint regarding V6 AUE ? Regardless if engine is warm or cold, sometimes happens to me that during driving, while slowing down and pressing on clutch pedal, revs just drop down to 0 and engine shuts down (vehicle still moving). This usually happens while changing gears from 3rd to 2nd on low speeds in city, or while slowing down to full stop in 2nd gear and pressing clutch pedal.
While this happens, I quickly switch off the ignition and start the engine again, which is tricky and potentially dangerous, since vehicle is still moving but my power steering and brakes are not functioning because of stopped engine.
Some relevant info...I have K&N cone air filter intake and ECU is remapped by BTS Racing (German tuning house).
Car is running and pulling normally. In all other regimes of driving, there are no issues or whatsoever.
When I go to turn my car on, I have to give it 3 or 4 tries. The try before it actually turns on goes like this: turn key, engine sounds like it wants to turn, almost starts for a split second, and then shuts off. After this I can usually turn it on.
Usually the rpm's would be around 1.3k on a cold start, but when I finally get it to start it automatically dips below 1k. Then when I go to drive it, it feels like it wants to shut off on that first throttle push. It started with just an issue in cold weather, but has gotten progressively worse. Battery is only a few months old.
Cluster dead. Held power button for 3 seconds. Engine shuts off but MFD stays on and green power stays on too. I've tried holding the power button for 20+ seconds. I can restart the car normally and and the engine starts up. Holding the power button for 3+ seconds turns the engine back off, but not completely. When I walk away from the car, it complains I'm leaving with the key and beeps at me. It's still powered on in my garage.
View 13 RepliesMy car lives in a parking garage which by nature is well shaded. In the last few weeks, when I start the car, the orange hands on the instrument cluster come on at full brightness (which I think is normal), but the rest of the normally "on" panel fails to light up meaning, that the white digits on the speedometer range are dark, the ones in the tachometer, etc.
The dash looks like something from science fiction, which is cool, but is nearly useless when all you see is a bunch of glowing orange pointers! After a few minutes, the back light turns on through no action of mine and all is well in the analog instrument cluster area.
I'm coming home from just running errands around town, got the stereo on pretty loud, normal driving, good weather, and the engine just shuts off. Lights are still on, regular brightness, everything electrical working, but battery light and EPC light are on and the engine won't restart. It'll turn and "click" like it's about to start, but just the starter turns over.
Fast forward 5 minutes (no activity in the interim), and it starts up first try. Battery light is now off but EPC light is still on. This happened about 2 blocks from home, so I gently take it home. 1 block away, the EPC light goes off. I let it idle for a minute and everything now seems normal. I shut it off and so here we are.
I ordered and replaced all the LEDs in the car and the license plate LEDs as well. Now I got that damn orange bulb on my dash. Anyway to clear it?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2010 gen 111 with nav system etc, the other day a orange check engine light came on, I took it to our Toyota Dealer and they said that I had mud and gravel up in the car, near the fuel intake area, and that the carbon capture canister/switch was damaged by the dirt and I need to get it replaced. I asked if I could simply not make the repair due to the fact that the electronics system would eventually not be able to read the H Carbon readings and the car would burn more fuel.
View 1 RepliesEngine light came on over the weekend, then went off and back on and off. All orange. Called My ford dealer this morning and they had me bring it down there for the day. Drove me home then picked me up this afternoon when it was done. Also had oil change and fuel filter change.
Scanned for codes found P202D Reductant Leakage and P20E8 reductant pressure to low found tsb 11-12-03 followed tsb and replaced reductant tank pump cleared codes preformed koer glow plug on demand self test passed and preformed reductant leakage test passed road tested to verified repair ok at this.
So I go and get my oil change on Sunday at a local place. Oil change is done and later that evening my engine light comes on (solid orange). I call the local VW service and they say its nothing to worry about. "Maybe a little moisture got inside my gas tank." The service manager said to continue to drive it like nothing is wrong and it should go off. Here I am two days later and its still on. So should I be worried?
View 9 RepliesMy wife's Prius now has the check engine light, the orange triangle, and the car with the exclamation point lit up. It only has 96,000 miles and hasn't been in a wreck that we know of. I've read that it has to do with the HV ECU, but I don't know much more about it. Is there any chance it's just a loose cable or something simple? It doesn't seem like her car should already be having so many extensive problems all at once. We haven't had any in the past, except the car with the exclamation point came on for a few days and then went away on its own.
Codes: P1636, P3106, P3002, P3006. It's a 2002 Prius
So I have been having issues with a cluster in a car I recently bought. Sometimes it works fine, sometimes no gauges or MFA, sometimes just no gauges. All of the dummy lights work, and the odometer has power, although it does not seem to record miles when the cluster is not working.
I checked for power, good. Looked in the Bentley for grounds, there are 3. Terminal 9&24 and a sender ground, terminal 7. 9&24 both show continuity, but I get zilch on the sender ground. Tried looking in the wiring diagrams and google but I cant figure out what a sender ground is or if it should have continuity?
Next step is to try another cluster, but I don't want to go through the trouble of switching it to a new cluster if the ground is bad.
I got to work this morning and had about 3.5 miles left with the EV. Tried to go home and nothing works. I could not open the door. I thought it was my remote battery so I Changed the battery and still nothing works. I get the Orange caution light on the dash and a clicking sound from the engine area . No lights come on. Nothing.
View 5 RepliesSymptoms:
1. As I'm coming to a stop the rpms drop to about 4-500 and the battery light comes on.
2. But instead of shutting off the car revs itself to about 1.5k and does this about 2 or 3 times. (bouncing between 500 and 1.5k rpms.)
3. Car then either settles at a normal idle, or it turns off.
This happens when I'm coming to a stop in neutral or 1st with the clutch pressed down. If I come to a stop in 2nd gear with the clutch down it either does nothing, or just 1 and 2 but doesn't shut off.
Throwing the following codes:
p2401- evap emission system leak detection pump control circuit low
p0261- cyl 1 injector circuit low
p0267- cyl 3 "
p0270- cyl 4 "
p0264- cyl 2 "
p0445- evap emission system purge control valve circuit shorted
p2257- secondary air injection system control A circuit low
p0010- A camshaft position actuator/open bank 1
p0414- secondary air injection system switching valve A circuit shorted
Obviously an electrical issue, no way all these codes spring up all at once for separate reasons. Any fuses, relays, harnesses or grounds that relate to all or most of these problems.
Car has trouble at start up, takes a little longer to turn over. If I don't stay on the gas it will eventually cut off. Once I am driving its fine. Its only once the E brake is up, it will cut off right after the brake light comes on.