My GTI has started to bog out, i guess is the best way to describe... As I am trying to accelerate on the highway my RPMs rev up to 5000 till I get any response to amount of gas I am giving. It will dramatically drop to 3000 without letting off the gas. then gradually will accelerate, untypical to way it use to perform. She respond this way cold or hot.
View 7 Replies230 miles and I have one question. I'm braking in the R slowly and haven't really hit the RPM's in a crazy way but when I go from say 3000-5000 RPM I hear a vibration along with the nice sounding exhaust. It happens in each gear if i take it that high.
I'm thinking it's maybe a heat shield or something? Have any of you experienced this or maybe have heard of this symptom.
Other than this issue, the car is the bomb! My R is not numbered? Isn't the number on the steering wheel?
The car runs fine clutch has pressure and everything. I can idle with the clutch pressed down and put into reverse and every gear BUT if I put it in a gear and start to let the clutch out I can hear a clanking or something flying around in there and it doesn't really want to go anywhere and I don't want to really let the clutch all the way out in gear or let it out for too long and screw anything else up worse..
View 2 RepliesI have a 03 golf 2.0 with 82k on it. I am having a really weird issue with car pulling left under load and then going back to the right when letting off the gas. It's more noticeable at higher speeds....over 40mph or so. I did a quick check under the car at ball joints, cv joints and can't really see anything that would make this issue. Would a trans mount or motor mount cause this? Is there something I am missing?
View 2 RepliesThe rattle, 1.8t GLI
-2500-3000 RPM
-Car can be in gear or out of gear, rev rattle is the same.
-Sometimes, I can hear the rattle when the car is off and I slam the door slightly harder than usual.
-My hood release cable may have been the culprit, but I could only zip-tie part of it and the rattle hasn't changed.
One really important clue is that when I have reached around the area between my engine and airbox, the rattle has gone away. So I had a bad coolant flange, so when reaching my phone down there to take pictures, I must have bumped or pressed something because the noise was gone for about a mile.
I recently had my airbox out and a visual inspection didn't show any promise and tapping on random parts didn't recreate the sound.
There is am RPM rattle near my airbox....
Don't know if I'm experiencing the dreaded limp mode or not. It seems that SOMETIMES while just digging thru the gears 1-2-3, not hard, when I get to 3000 rpms it's like I'm taking my foot off the gas. Rpm drops from 3000 to 2500. It's like I'm losing boost or something. I have no mods and obviously, no boost gauge.
View 7 RepliesOn my drive home today around 2500-3000 rpm I am getting real bad lifter ticking noise. When I let of the gas it stops but as soon as I get back on it it will start ticking again. I just bought oil for an oil change Mobile 1
0W-40 I'm pretty sure plus a mobile 1 filter. Will this stop the ticking noise or do I need to adjust my lifters?
I just purchased a 2001 Jetta Wolfsburg with the 1.8T, 5 speed, and 169,000 miles. I need to figure out the engine hiccups. The check engine light is on. The car seems to hesitate between 2000-3000 rpm when the motor is lugged (pulling a hill, passing, etc).
I had the codes pulled at Autozone and came up with the following.
P0172 (Bank 1 System Too Rich)
P0300 (Random Multiple Misfire)
P0302 (Cylinder 2 Misfire)
P0420 (Catalyst System Below)
P0455 (Evaporator Emission)
P0411 (Secondary Air Injector Incorrect)
I made an earlier thread about minor low speed crash and airbag deployment that has sense been fixed.
The engine 2.0 (AZG) will rev to 3000 (3200 sometimes) RPM and stop. This is only if you give it about 20% / 25% throttle. If you give it full throttle it spits and sputters. When I had the airbags installed. The codes were read it and also came up for cam sensor and o2 changed that and now the codes are gone. No CEL and it is exact same issues still. I can't tell if ECU is doing it but it feels like it's not getting enough gas or air since full pedal makes it stall.
I have a golf mk4 1.8T AGU, about one week after i had my k04-023 turbo on and all the Stuff that comes along it started "stall" (don't know if its the right word??) in the High gears, most 5th gear but it first start doing it when i hit boost (3000rpm)
I runs on Stock n75 valve.. I though i could be a boost problem, maybe the Stock system cant handle it? I did install a boost gauge to see if it was the was the problem, and it dont Seem like it. In first it runs from 1.4 bar and drops to 1.2. Same in second and third. But in 4 and 5th it goes to 1.7 bar and drops to 1.4.. I did wonder it maybe the n75 valve cant handle 1.7 bar??
I ran over a parking stone last summer, ripped the plastic undercarriage a little, but alignment was fine, wasn't that bad, etc. I took the car to the shop last week for a strange whistle/squeal on acceleration and letting off the gas (PCV valve under recall) and they stated that my radiator support was broken, and the radiator was hanging there to the tune of 750 bucks.
View 1 RepliesI have a MK4 2.0L 8v 5 speed and recently I started making trips out to the country that last a bout 25 minutes one way and I usually drive pretty spirited the whole way.
I recently noticed that after each trip my coolant reservoir drops significantly, about 1/2" or 3/4". The oil level never changes and the engine never passes 90C on the gauge.
The outside temperature is about -10C most of the time and I always have it at operating temps before I really get into it.
I can't decide if this is normal because the engine isn't overheating (as far as the gauge says) or a problem because it's using a lot of coolant. I've never been to a track with this or any other car so I'm not sure about the effects from hard driving.
The engine revs to 6.2k RPM and I never go over 5k.
I have an '01 gti glx that I just swapped a motor into. I got the motor out of an '01 jetta glx, exact match AFP engine code.
I get cylinder 2 misfires mostly (high number) but I also get 5 and 6 intermittently as well as a P0300 code.
Sometimes I also need to hold the gas down just to get it to start even after the crank sensor.
The engine idles sometimes at 600 rpm but drops and nearly stalls after revving at all.
What I've tried so far:
working cam sensor from my old vr
brand new crank sensor
brand ned wires/plugs
new fuel filter
swapped injectors of misfiring cylinders from old motor
lined up the timing 3 times now and its still perfect
I know the coil pack works because it was on my old motor, which ran fine, just leaked oil.
OK so here's the deal. Driving around town @ lower speeds I've yet to have this problem. When driving at freeway speeds seems like between 1/4 tank & reserve all of a sudden the power just drops off . I mean like the ignition has been turned off. No throttle response .. nothing..... just begins coasting & dropping speed. When throttle is depressed... totally dead. This lasts for about 5-10 seconds then after coasting & looking where to pull off the highway all of a sudden the engine kicks back in like nothing ever happened. Where to look for Jetta MK 4 18T Fuel supply problem??
View 4 RepliesThe car is an 02 gti. I am having problems at full boost(17 psi) where the car starts to stutter, backfire, and eventually drops to 5 psi. Throttle up to 15 psi is always smooth and there is no hesitation or misfires. It's chipped but I am unaware of which software as it was already on the car when purchased.
What I've done:
Checked for any leaks - none
Cleaned maf
Replaced plugs(0.028) and coils which was needed anyways
Coil harnesses look good
Fuel filter changed
I've read about the n75 but I am not experiencing any surge issues that many have described. I do believe the car is running a little rich because I can smell some fumes but it is very light. Car fires up just fine and idles smoothly.
My problem(s) are as follows:
I recently got a 2001 VW Golf 1.8T from a buddy in the Marines. He delivered it to me at my home almost 4 hours away, as described, reportedly without any issues. I got all of the paperwork transferred so that my wife could have a solid daily driver, only to discover ...
1) The vehicle in question was apparently used by a car audio company local to him, who has done some serious screwing with the electrical system in order to incorporate (and then remove) their crap.
2) When shifting through the gears, and coming to 4th gear, you get a couple of seconds of initial acceleration, followed by deceleration and RPMs falling, which in turn leads to the speedo dropping.
3) The same thing happens in 5th gear.
4) The only option is to downshift to a lower gear, which she did, and was apparently cruising along at 60 mph in 2nd gear, as 3rd gear was behaving the same way as 4th/5th upon downshifting. I'm not a mechanic by any means, but I'm pretty sure this is a BAD thing .
I have a 2005 VW jetta 2.0 engine 5 speed. Just replaced right control arm spark plugs wires and coil pack. I had a misfire only when it rained and it got rid of it! Driving home in stop and go traffic and My car stalls out a hear a bang and my clutch pedal drops to the floor. I had noticed some fluid loss but nothing was low I checked everything before I left work. I finally get it towed but I can not shift to first I can shift to 2 3 4 5 and reverse. I was in first when it stalled out during stop and go traffic while it was in first gear and i had the clutch pressed in. Everything Ive google says it is more than likely the Slave cylinder that is right below the air box. I found some that said it could be the release bearing in the gearbox for the tranny...
View 4 RepliesStarted noticing a whooshing noise when I let off the accel pedal on my 2002 F250 7.3 powerstroke.
You can hear it best towards the end of this video: [URL] .....
What could this be?
Here is what happened: I was accelerating one colder morning while driving to work when the power just dropped. Then engine continued to run, but I had no power or acceleration over 3000 rpm. Since that time, that is how the car drives. It starts, runs, etc... but has no power (like rev limiter or something) over 3000 rpm. The turbo spools up fine. I do know my 02 sensors are old. The engine has 184k on it... not bad. Is this a head gasket situation?
View 3 RepliesSymptoms- won't rev over 3000-3500 rpm's, upon acceleration (especially uphill) seems to struggle and won't accelerate much at all, seems as if trans changes fine. BTW, throwing no codes at present.
What I have already tried...new air filter, new fuel filter, had cat. check (was told stopped up but when removed found it was not and truck did the same even with cat. off), o2 sensor (upstream) replaced, battery disconnected to reset computer.
After reset of computer, runs a little better but still not good. Seems to start if you accelerate to quickly or when truck reaches around 40-45 mph.
I was driving my 94 civic lx yesterday, and noticed that on acceleration the car would die when exceeding 3000 rpm, so I proceeded driving not exceeding those rpms. After a few minutes, that “ceiling” decreased to 2700 rpm, then to 2500 and so on. In the course of 10 minutes the car died and would not start. I checked the spark, and fuel pressure everything seems to be fine. It cannot be the fuse because the car was dying slowly, like something was limiting the rpms.
View 12 Replies