Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Oil Pressure Warning Light After Driving For About 15 - 20 Minutes
Oct 29, 2015
I have a mk4 Jetta 1.8t. Problem started last night. After I drive for about 15-20 minutes the oil pressure warning light comes on. It doesn't feel any different and my oil is full. Could my pump be going bad? I hear a slight tick near the bottom of the engine on the passenger side. But the car idles fine and drives fine too.
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I have an oil pressure warning light on my 03' GTI 1.8t. It started as a sporadic issue, it would beep and flash for about 1-2 minutes than go away for about 20 minutes and return and repeat. I drove 130 miles on it due to an important meeting for work.
-I than changed the oil pressure sensor ( i found the old sensor housing full of oil ) and than the light stayed on after the car warmed up.
-I changed the oil pump with an OEM unit. Also changed the oil pick up- Issue still exists.
The light only comes on after 2-5 minutes of the car running. So I'm wondering if the oil is heating up and becoming less viscous than not allowing the pump to pump it as well or the sensor not picking it up.
I have oil and am not leaking it. I'm confused on what it could now be. I'm having it towed to my buddy's shop for him to take a gander when he gets a chance.I'm wondering if the cluster itself is bad.
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I currently have a MK5 Jetta and my wife's van lease is up. I'm looking at picking up a 2001 Wagon 1.8t and giving her the Jetta. It checks out real well, the only issue is the oil pressure warning comes on after about 5-10 minutes of driving. Turn the car off and back on it goes away. He changed the oil when he got it a couple weeks ago, and didn't change the filter, he's taking it to his shop to have it re-done, and he was going to drop the pan and check the screen and pick-up and such. Has this been an issue or what may cause this?
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Before I go buy a Bentley manual to dig around, when should my radiator fans kick on. I had the car idling for 10 minutes, no ac or heat on, and my coolant warning light came on, it overheated. It already has a new fan switch in the radiator, and the fuses are good.
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So I'm having some problems with the oil pressure warning light beeping at me. First time it came on I stopped immeadietly, checked the oil and it was fine. (I just changed it when I got it) so I started it up again and it was fine for a few days. Then it came on again Real quick then went off. Now it comes on once or twice every trIp. I've replaced the switch already but it was still coming on so I installed an oil pressure gauge and I've confirmed my suspicions that the engine is indeed not loosing pressure. It sits at about 30ish at idle and goes up to aboit 50to 60 while driving 2-3k rpm. Yet the Damn oil light keeps blIbking. I'm assuming it has a wiring problem. Is there a way to shut this up or do I have to trace wires til I find the prob
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My tire pressure monitor is acting funky again in cold weather. For the past few days when the weather is around 30s i get flat tyre warning when i first start my car. then after drive for about 5 minutes, it goes away. Seems like once the tire warms up the warning disappeared.
I have standard 18" wheels... currently the tire reading from the MFI is 34 front 37 back. I remember i had them set in the summer for 37 front and 42 back. Should I put more air in? is that why?
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I have a 2001 Golf 1.8T and while driving the oil pressure light turns on and the meter goes beyond the midpoint. I brought it in to a shop and they told me I need to change the oil pump and will cost $900. They told me it's because I don't frequently change oil and once the new oil is in, it caused the problem and only way to drive the car again is to replace the oil pump.
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Yellow brake light turned on while driving in rain, then for some reason turned off. I had read somewhere this may be an indicator of wear on brake pads. I have a 90 mi. commute round trip, I will check again if this turns on and stays on. For now, it is off. what could be causing this?
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Lately I've been hearing a constant click from what seems to be my chains side of the motor. Tensioners and chains were said to be done around 123k. After I've been driving it for a few minutes I hear the click. I thought it was the trans/ throw out berrying but when i push the clutch in and have it in gear i can still hear the click. It is not rapid like a tensioner like a tick tick tick, its like tick......tick......tick, could this be my top end of my block not receiving enough oil? I have a cracked oil pan, doesn't leak that often but i feel as if that is the source of the problem. Also I feel as if i lose power once i hit about 4300-4400 RPMs could that be because of low oil pressure?
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I recently installed and oil gauge now I want to disconnect the stop oil pressure warning on my dash.
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So I have a 2001 VW Jetta Wolfsburg Edition, love the car. So here's my problem, whenever I am driving for more then 20-30 minutes my shifting between gears begins to become more and more rough, like whenever I shift from 2nd to 3rd, it directs me to first gear instead of 3rd and I have to kinda force it into 3rd. This only happens when I am driving for a long period of time, why this is happening? and sometimes when I put it in reverse I get a loud crunch noise but I get it into gear...
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i have a 05 GTI 1.8T and recently started overheating while driving. for a few months it would overheat if i idled too long but now after driving for 5 minutes it overheats and also wont build any boost. i could hear a hissing sound after i shut the car and thats coming from the flange where the coolant temp sensor is, but is hissing where is mounts to the engine.
update- i replaced the o-ring on the flange, that got rid of the hissing. the no boost must have been due to the engine overheating, but it is still overheating i guess im gonna check the thermostat next.
update 2 - checked thermostat and it is good so I'm at a loss here.
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This only happens once or twice a week. After driving the car for 20+ minutes and sitting in the driveway, it will start running hot. I'd say around 230 degrees and it will stay there until I start driving the car again. I made sure the fans work and I also checked the coolant level and both are fine. What could be causing this issue?
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I want to start by saying I'm new and don't really fully know how to search vortex, I'm sure there's probably a bunch of things about this. I have an 04.5 gli, my temp gauge reads 190 all of the time but according to vag com I'm running at about 220 some times higher. I've heard my fan kick in once in the year I've owned it. Also I get a decent amount of power loss after driving for about 20 to 30 minutes. Idk if that's related, but just hard wire the fan with a switch? I don't have a lot of money so I'm not really trying to play a guessing game replacing stuff.
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I've changed the pressure switch 3 times now (1.4 bar, 1.4 bar, then 1 bar which is stock), checked oil pump, checked pressure with external gauge,..everything is fine. The light won't go away......what else could it be? It's usually an issue of pressure or the switch....certainly not for me.
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I bought my GTI used and don't know what software its running but I have some questions about the boost pressure. When I'm in Idle the car will only boost to about 7-10psi when i rev the engine in neutral, But when I'm driving it will boost all the way to about 17-20psi if I really stomp it, 15psi if I'm just giving it a bit of "go". The car takes off and goes really quick, seems like it has a lot of power so I doubt there's a boost leak but I'm wondering does the car boost differently in Idle because it knows its not moving?
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Last night my tire pressure warning light came on. So this morning I checked them, and they are all above 37 psi, so might be a tad bit low, but nothing major. the manual also mentioned that light can come on if there is a sensor fault. Should I be concerned?
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A week ago before I left for h20 my battery light came on, i drove for 10 mins and it went off. I also had a battery test and alternator test at that time and everything showed up ok. I drove 800 miles all good. Last night the battery light came on again, I was far from home so just tried making it back but the car dies on me. Before it died the traction and abs light turned on, the lights dimmed, when I gassed it the lights would get a tiny bit brighter. Also my gauges got stuck at the rpm i was driving at and 70 mph, even though i came to a stop already.
When i tried to gas the car it was backfiring, sometimes i couldn't even give it gas. Only way to start the car was to jump it, then i can drive a little before the car died again.
I drove with my battery box off the highway because highway patrol said i have to and got towed how from there last night. The ALTERNATOR AND BATTERY WERE CHANGED a year and a half ago apx 12000 miles, all oem equipment for the alternator. The serpentine belt and tensioner on top have also been changed and serviced.
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Why my 2002 Jetta 1.8t does this?
After I drive for a while I have to [slowly] open the overflow cap and relieve pressure in order to not lose coolant while the car sits. It steams for a bit when I open the cap and then the coolant rises in the reservoir then I close it.
If I don't do this then the car loses coolant but I don't see any leaks visible under the car.
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So I was driving home yesterday, drove fine for about 14mi. Then I got a oil pressure low warning light shut off engine. The engine sounded no weird noises or anything so I shut it off checked the oil and it was full and fairly clean. Started it back up sounded fine drove it almost all the way home and it came back on, again no noises and oil was full. I noticed though that it came on mostly coming to a stop or taking off when the rpms hit about 1500-1700.
So I went to the shop I work at and hooked a pressure gauge up and I got 15psi. At idle and 35psi. at 2000rpms. With the engine temp in the normal range. I got the spec from all data which only shows the spec for the 2000 rpm range no idle spec, which was 29psi-65psi I think. So it sounded like it was okay. So I went to advance got a new oil pressure switch it didn't work.
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My wife drove over a big bump and triggered the warning light. I checked the pressure and they are fine.
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