Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Oil Disappearing / Not A Single Indication Of A Leak Found
Mar 8, 2015
Our Daughter has added a 3rd Jetta to the family, A 2002 2.0 5 Sp with 123K. Runs like a top...looks great and figured a deal @ $2300... The man used it as a daily driver with about 3 mile run to work.... Oil was black, a little low, and the white sludge on the cap....Oil changed with synthetic (not sure what he was using) added thermostat and temp sensor to fix the cold running codes...and 2000K miles without a flaw.....
Until her oil light flashes and chimes....and she is 2 qts low....
Not a single indication of a leak found, overflow tank is clean, no smoke and the exhaust pipe appears normal, so I'm scratching my head now....
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Yesterday I noticed nice fresh pink stain on fresh new concrete after a 20 minute ride, after coming back to the car an hour later. When I open the hood you there was distinct smell of wetness and dampness. I'm at 16k. Also visible at the bottom, under the pulleys dried stain on the plastic shroud. The coolant level is about quarter of an inch below min.
Furthermore I noticed oil build up around plastic intake tube just next to the firewall. So far no CEL and other issues, except my compartment lid in the middle console refusing to close and fully open.
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Putting a magnaflow muffler on the 99.5 2.0 slow jetta on Wednesday and I realized I don't have a rear GLI lip. Any single turn down extension off a muffler ? Or just run a straight pipe off the muffler ? Clearance with the rear lip issues ?
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Started out of the blue. I stopped for gas and when I got back in the car, every little light in my instrument cluster came on and has remained on for weeks. Car runs fine - everything feels normal. Ignition switch, maybe?
2000 gti VR6
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Maybe I've been having too much fun in the rain... I've recently noticed an odd smell in the car and found a small wet spot underneath the passenger front floor mat, only to be followed by same in the rear passenger floor mat. I was hoping it won't happen again, but I found myself with the wet floor few weeks later after the rain.
I first thought it may be the bike rack (which I have posted in the earlier month) but seeing the location and occurence, it couldn't be from the rack. It was always the underneath the center of the freaking floor mat.
My R is at the dealer since yesterday, getting a full physical.. They're even talking about removing the headliner to make sure there is no internal leak from the roof.
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2005 GTI 1.8T 5spd 97k
Pretty much every time I back up and turn, I hear one loud, single pop from the front end. Occasionally, it will happen when I start forward from a stop (if turning) but that's it. It never happens at any other time. I can't decide if it's suspension or steering related. Where could this be coming from?
I have gone through the front end thoroughly and the only issue I find is my passenger inner CV boot has begun to crack and has lost some grease. I would expect a CV failure to click anytime I'm moving and turning. Again, I never hear this noise under any other circumstances.
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So I drove my car about a mile to a friend's house and when I went to start it back up 10 minutes later, I got no start and no crank. Just a single loud relay click from the engine compartment. Tow truck tried jumping it and then thwacking the starter solenoid to try and get it going. No dice. Battery seems all good.
Had some interesting things go wrong the day before which may be related to it. First, I was tracking my MPG and fuel trim on a highway trip and the trim and fuel consumption data just stopped coming in. Speedo and RPM data was still coming down the OBDII but I just assumed that my reader took a ****. Later that night I noticed that the lights on my climate control (the manual kind) went out. Tapped on it and it came back on, but only briefly. The bulb looks shot.
No engine strangeness on the drive over or earlier in the day. I drive it most every day. Has 215,000 miles on it.
I'm guessing either a short or bad starter. FWIW, I've also been experiencing the typical starter whine after starting. Was meaning to take it off and grease it. Not sure that has anything to do with it. I also tried rotating the crankshaft to make sure the engine wasn't locked up and it does turn, albeit not incredibly easily. It does have oil on the dipstick.
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Last August, with about 76,000 miles on it, the oil light on my xc70 came on when I was making a U-turn. I took the car into the dealer and was told it was down almost 4 quarts. The “cause” was the breather box which was replaced for a substantial amount of money. About 5k miles later the same thing happened. Again I was down over 3 quarts but the breather box was fine. There is no leak and absolutely no indication that oil is burning (no smoke, smell, residue in the tailpipe).
The speculation was that that the oil was somehow vaporizing in a line between the pan and the block. I didn’t buy that.Now after three more visits; I have been bringing the car in every 1k for an oil change and consumption check (the dealer has absorbed this cost) they have determined it is losing about ½ quart every 1k miles. They have not identified why. All they say is that I can rebuild the engine (new rings and pistons). This is ridiculous! 85k on the car and it needs a new engine. This was a certified pre-owned Volvo with 11k when I bought it and all service has been done by the dealer.
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My mothers 95 blazer LS coolant is disappearing. A friend said if it's not on the ground than it's in the engine somewhere. oil pan search looked coffee looking?
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Even though I had head gasket done/timing belt/water pump & other stuff, 3 months, ago, I'm having to check the coolant level weekly & adding about 1 cup of water to pink coolant every 8 - 9 days. The mechanic who did the work tells me that adding that "little" water in "that amount of time is nothing unusual". I know of no one else who keeps a coolant log. I'm obsessed with this problem. I've spent so much on differing repair to this car - it's as if I bought a lemon.Car has 104K mi. Have coolant problem with no coolant winding up on the ground?
VW Passat station wag. 2003 1.8 L Turbo 4 cylinder...
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I have coolant disappearing but no signs of a leak anywhere. Oil is fine. Car does not run hot. There is rust in the radiator though. Heater core is not leaking. I have a 2001 Pontiac Gran Prix GT. There was a recall on the cooling system but was not serviced (I didn't own car then). A pressure test was done and it holds pressure. Should I change radiator and thermostat? What else should I have checked?
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I was searching for an oil leak forever. In my search for the leak I resealed my hpop, redid oilcooler rings and last week had a friend pull my motor to redo the pan gasket. The leaks were almost down to where I thought we had them beat. Now in the last couple days I'm losing coolant and oil....bad. there is oil on the ground mostly from the cross member. Question is did my oil cooler fix not take? I have read that a nicked of ring can cause this.
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Ive been losing 20psi every week for the past month and I've finally had some time to fix it. I figured a leak that small would best be fixed with some slime. But can we use slime with tpms? If not, I guess i'll just have to open up the hole and plug it up.
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Seems like since I did the first oil filter change it seemed very hard to get off oil filter. Today I did about the 5th filter change and it was harder than the last time. Thought i was going to break something. I do snug it up so there is no gap between the engine block and top of filter canister. Should I back it off a turn or 2 and check for leaks, maybe that is what that retainer clip is for near the top of the filter canister to stop it from coming undone so you don't have to snug it up?
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I have a 2010 VW Beetle. I did not use my car during the Christmas holiday and when I came back home I got 4 flat tires. Then I had it towed to the mechanic but they said they didn't find any leaks or punctures in any of the tires and it was just because the freezing cold weather. After 2 weeks I had flat tires again and I went to another mechanic, they told me the same thing but a few days later the low tire pressure light keeps showing on the dashboard and the tires become pretty flat every other day (about 15 psi). This is really bothering me because I have to go to the gas station to put air in the tire everyday.
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2007 Pilot leaks coolant but, mechanic can not find the leak anywhere including the head gasket. He was a certified Honda mechanic.
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89 3.0L - I seem to loose a little bit of coolant every time I drive maybe like 1/2 a pint?
I checked every connection - engine running, and even waited to make sure the t-stat was opening, and closed, etc (maybe it was the top hose, nope)
I did replace the radiator a couple of years ago, and had the problem ever since I did that, but at the same time, I also replaced the T-Stat with a 165 degree, since she was starting to run a bit on the hot side, even with the new water pump and radiator I did... on a cool day, it would run at the middle of the gauge with a 190 degree... and with AC on, hills and 95 degree days, it would be pushing upwards of 3/4 of the way on the gauge...
Could the 165 degree therm stat be somehow causing a 13 lb cap to not function properly? I replaced the original with a Stant... but Im thinking I should get a new Motorcraft OEM cap, since the other one lasted 20 years!
I kept the old radiator - love it - "wow real brass/copper in there!" it was still fine when I pulled it, but had a hairline crack right below the top hose area...
Anyways, pressure tests revel nothing, I see no bubbles or anything with the engine idling, cap off
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Maybe I am running out of my beginner's luck. Recently when I did the second oil change at 10K miles, I placed the drain pan without taking into account the fact that the oil drains partially sideways. The oil stream ended up splashing off the edge of the drain pan and made a mess. Then I did not withdraw my hand fast enough when unscrewing the oil filter and allowed a stream of oil running down my arm and staining my new shirt. The I filled the new oil filter too full and had one more spill when installing it.
About two weeks later I found there was a very thin coat of oil at the bottom of the oil filter but no drips either on the filter or on the ground. I checked the oil level and it was the same as before. I checked the filter tightness with a torque wrench and it was also as tight as before. I wiped the bottom of the filter clean with paper towel. Now about another two weeks passed and a corner of the bottom of the filter is coated with oil again.
I am thinking maybe it was just the spilled oil gradually making its way from the (outside) top of the filter to the bottom? If there is a leak then I should get at least some drips, not just a thin film every two weeks, right? I also thought about untightening the filter and then tighten it again but I was afraid of large amount of oil coming out, would it? Also I had carefully checked the o-ring and wiped the flange clean before installing the filter and there are so many threads to screw the filter on - it is hard to imaging the filter would not seat correctly.
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This morning I saw this indication in the MFD between the tach and speedo. I checked the gas cap - it was on correctly and tight. Advisory appeared again a few moments later, so I removed gas cap and reinstalled correctly. Upon removing, I heard a slight "whoosh" sound of air moving either into or out of the filler neck.
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I have a 1993 Dodge Grand Caravan. I found a small leak in my fuel rail. Can I buy a repair kit for this or do I need to find a new fuel rail? If so where to find a rail for a van this old?
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I have a 02m and I believe my transmission is leaking from this hole. The hole is located right behind the starter. Is there any plug or something that belongs in that hole? It tends to leak more or only when I drive it.
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