Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Oil Cooler Leaks Only At Startup
Mar 7, 2016
I noticed last week when I leave the house in the morning my car was leaving oil striped down my road. Jacked car up Saturday AFTER RUNNING TO STORE found a little oil on bottom of my car but not nowhere near what I was thinking there would be. Cleaned motor fired up found no leaks at all . However this morning after car had sat 20hrs or so I looked under car before I cranked her up clean.
Got it cranked her up and oil was streaming from the oil cooler. Not on the block side but towards the front of car side of cooler. It did this for a few seconds then stopped. I am gonna order new front and rear orings for oil cooler. I am just stumped why it only happens at a cold start and for a few seconds not consistently.
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My buddy has a 03 Jetta 1.8t and just started doing this has a ton of oil in the intercooler ....
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Bought a MkIV for the fiancee 2 weeks ago (04.5 GLI 1.8T Automatic).. Great driving car, needs some minor love (really dirty, burnt out lights, etc)
After the first week, the coolant light came on
Had some G12 handy, topped it off (like 8-10 oz)
All good
2 days later, it came on again, added about the same amount
4 days later, it came on again, added the same amount
1 day later, it came on again, added the same amount
I am adding 50/50 mix, but haven't seen a puddle anywhere, Nothing looks wet, but then again its hard to see around the plastic cover ...
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I've got 149,xxx miles on my Golf TDI. Took it by a local shop for a routine oil change and since then, it's just been puking oil from the oil cooler. I took it back to the shop and the mechanic even pointed that out. Some red flags here; Timing is too shady. This happened literally the day after the oil change. He also told me that he won't use customer-supplied parts for liability reasons. Seems believable enough, but why would this part just choose to go wrong now?
This is my first time at this shop too and I've never really dealt with "bad mechanics" before but something about this isn't sitting right with me, and I'm not sure how to handle my next step properly. So what would cause an engine oil cooler to leak profusely just after an oil change?
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Replaced my coil packs/sparks, and just got around to changing my N75 valve today. The rough idle issue is gone but now when I go WOT it boosts but goes from 15psi-12-13-12-14-12...etc. I've checked and there are no boost leaks. I do have a CEL saying I need a new bank 1 sensor 1 Oxygen sensor. If it is that, why did this problem arise as soon as I changed the N75 valve and wasn't present earlier?
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My 2004 1.8T GTI is having a weird issue. It's had 3 coolant leaks in the past 3 months. Every time I get one leak fixed it goes leak free for a couple weeks, but then a new leak pops up in a new place.
First leak was a cracked coolant bottle. Second was a flange near the bottle on passenger side. The newest leak is on the driver side. Car hasn't ever overheated.
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So I have an oil leak I can't figure out. 2001 jetta vr6 5spd. The bottom of the car is covered with oil. It appears to be leaking above the transmission. It will consistently drip at idle. Oil sits on top of transmission and then Leaks down over the starter. It doesn't have any coolant leaks. Is there anything anything in that area that could leak oil that bad?
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I've bought new starter cleaned starter contacts battery contacts jumped it bypassed the ignition and relay but taking a wire and touching the positive to the signal wire..used jumper cables as a direct ground to to the starter the torque converter spins so it's not seased...I don't understand what could possibly be stopping this thing...it's just one click like the starter is jumping out but not enough power to turn... 2002 Jetta 1.8t auto
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2003 gti 1.8t. I'm having a problem with this engine code, it keeps coming back and when the CEL comes on the ASR light follows shortly and will then come on after every start up.
For the p0171 I've replaced:
Crankcase vent hose.
Y split running to the pcv
MAF
Coil packs
Spark plugs
Fuel pump
I also have done a seafoam treatment through tbe intake and ran a bottle (twice) of injector cleaners through the gas tank.
Nothing has fixed the code. I found cracks in the brake Booster vac line and had the line replaced (brake light would flash under boost, doesn't anymore). Can't find any other leaks except for maybe the secondary air pump (which I haven't replaced yet).
The OBD2 monitors all run. the EVAP and catalytic monitor won't click over to ready. I have a new pcv and a fuel filter coming in the mail in another vain attempt to fix the issue.
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I've noticed recently that on startup I'll hear a minor grinding noise after the engine has kicked over. Seems to happen more when the car is really cold.
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Just got this vr6 a week ago and noticed what sounds like a valve clicking, I thought maybe it was low on oil or something, so I just changed the oil and filter yesterday, clicking was gone from what i could hear. Start up today to go to work, clicking is back, I've noticed after the engine heats up the clicking subsides, but when you first start up I'm hearing it tick in the same area. Thinking maybe a intake/fuel cleaner next? My other 24v never did this. I've never taken it over 3k or anything until after it's warmed up.
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My 01 Jetta 2.0 recently started making a grinding sound on start up! had the crank sensor and the starter changed about a month ago and everything was fine but yesterday, for absolutely no reason it would make a horrible grinding sound on start up.Not the typical one where the engine starts and 2 seconds later it screeches (I searched) but while the engine is turning over it grinds. Once it didn't turn over at all just grinding sound. It's not all the time tho either?
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So my VR6 shakes quite a bit on startup and when I turn it off. I figured it was the dogbone mount. I did the clutch trick, jacked up the front end and engaged the transmission. Of course the engine shook a lot, in a forward to back motion, signalling the dogbone was bad. Shifts into and out of 1st and 2nd were pretty rough and i could feel it in both the driver and passenger seats during idle.
Well I just installed the ECS dogbone and while I can't really feel it much in the seats anymore, it still shakes quite a bit once the transmission is engaged. Low end shifts really haven't gotten much better either.
So I am thinking its either one of the other mounts, or the polyurethane bushing needs to be worked in. I am leading toward the former.
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I bought these wheels last summer from ECS Tuning - Alzor wheels for my Jetta. I haven't driven too much on them since I was deployed to Afghanistan for 9 months. I've been home 4 months. I think I have about 10k miles on them. The issue is that now one of them leaks. I took it in to be checked, thinking it was the tire. There is no rock rash, I haven't hit anything. The wheel leaks from the area that the spoke connects to the wheel base. There is no visible sign of a crack at all so I don't know what the heck is up. The paint looks fine from the spot it leaks from.
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So I was on my to get some food and when started my car it was shaking really bad and had a ticking sound. I popped the hood and the engine was shaking violently, it drove fine one day to walmart and the next day started doing this. I am thinking it could be the coil pack because it was raining when I went to start it.
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My 2000 Golf 2.0 started making a bit of noise on start-up and also if I rev it to say 2000RPM and then when the RPM goes back down it will hear some sort of "knock". After the car heats up as far as I know the noise is not there anymore.
This only happened today so I though I would check the oil level. It is fine but the dipstick was almost completely covered by air bubbles.
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2000 Jetta MKIV ... 2.0L GL
I've been dealing with random misfire codes on my Jetta (P0300, P0301-P0304). I've since replaced the spark plugs, wires, fuel filter, MAF senor, & camshaft positioning sensor but the problem still persists. The misfires occur right on start-up and don't stop which is leading me to the coil pack being bad.
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I have a 1999.5 jetta vr6, the CEL is on (p0102 MAF sensor circuit low or something like that...). When i start it up, it often dies really soon after and until its warm it will idle really roughly. I'll have to start it up between 5 and 15 times... Once its warm and about 190 F oil temp it runs just fine, but still has a slightly rough idle.
I have a new MAF sensor coming in, or if there are any other things i should check that might contribute to the problem.
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I have a raspy exhaust leak sounding noise when I start my 2003 GTi 1.8t that cuts off just a few minutes after I start the car and a fellow owner told me he thought it was a vacuum pump that has rivets that fail and allow the case to separate and cause this noise. Where this pump is located? This former coworker of mine said he replaced the rivets with long slender screws and nuts after removing the rivets but I lost contact with him and don't know where this pump is located.
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Every time I start my Golf there is a beep, the EPC light and ABS light come on and stay on, and the brake warning light starts flashing and continues to flash.
I have had the fault codes read and it came up with the following:
0414 Control unit improperly coded Faulty
0606 Yaw rate sensor Circuit defective.
What these faults actually mean and what might cause them? I'm quite keen to resolve the issue as anything brakes related makes me nervous, plus I do drive the car hard and use the 4Motion system, which I believe utilises the ABS system?
Probably worth mentioning that the car is fitted with a Series 1 Blue Haldex controller, in case that makes any difference?
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I've got a 2003 Jetta Wolfsberg that is acting up, I'll do my best to describe and outline the steps I've taken with the mechanic to fix the problem,
Occasionally, when starting the car one of two things happens, (1) engine turns over, fires, and then dies. Removing the key, letting the car sit for 30 seconds and trying again usually gets the car started. (2) The car will start but will run VERY roughly (misfiring, sounding like the engine is choking out). Very much like this (only sometimes much worse, usually ending in a stall): [URL] ....
Turning the car off, removing the key, letting it sit, and then trying it again will eventually work, even though it might take a few cycles. Once the car gets running it almost always runs fine from thereon. (There have been a couple occasions where the car has gone into limp mode, even on the freeway. Pulling over, letting it sit, and starting it again almost always fixes the problem. I've not yet been stranded.)
Diagnosis & Steps taken:
I get regular codes for the camshaft position sensor and also for the MAP (Barometric pressure) sensor. Both have been replaced.The MAP sensor and the atmospheric pressure readings are off by about 30 (something like 960 and 990). My mechanic thought that maybe it was an electrical problem, he noted that the two sensors mentioned above share a common ground. He replaced the ground because it looked corroded. This brought the pressure numbers both to 990 and the car ran perfectly for a few weeks.One thought was to splice in a new wire to the MAP sensor, to see whether it was a signal problem, this hasn't been done yet. Another possibility was that there is a problem with the ECM.
I THINK, that the problems began just after having the computer flashed at the dealership two years ago. I'd got a code about an update and so the dealership did this. I don't know whether this could have had any effect on these problems, but the times lined up too well to not mention it.
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