My oil sensor light goes off under specific conditions, and it's consistent and 100% repeatable.
It's an MK4 Golf GTI 5-sp Manual, and whenever I'm slowing down and the engine is under 2000 revs, the sensor light goes off. This includes stopping, slowing going down or up hills, and really anytime the engine is lower than 2000 revs.
I've replaced the oil sensor, no dice. I don't know what else the issue might be?
.About a week ago NC got some really bad rain and in about 5 minutes the roads were under water. I had to end up driving through about a foot of water to get home, then parked the car. On my way home from work the next morning my car barely made it home, would cut out over 2k rpms and die if i didn't push the clutch in.
I sprayed some MAF cleaner on the sensor and tried that, it now will not idle when slowing down and will shut off every-time while rolling. (Also, while it is running it idles HORRIBLY and doesn't seem like it wants to pull boost efficiently)
I unplugged the maf and it does run a little better but when i pull the full 21lbs of boost then let off of the gas it dies.
Also i scanned the CEL and it says something about the MAF, i cleared it but the TC light never went off. and the CEL came back on in minutes.
My coolant indicator light keeps returning on my 01 Jetta GLS 2.0
I have searched in the forums and read that its likely a coolant sensor and requires replacing the coolant tank. I am wondering if there are other possible causes as I want to drive it for another 3k before replacing tank (as I will be having timing belt replacement and coolant flush at that time). Previous owner had universal (green) coolant in and it will be replaced with proper coolant when the flush is done.
The indicator comes on within a minute of starting the car. The thermostat seems to operate just fine and car is not overheating. I have topped off with diluted water, it definitely has proper level.
Safe to ignore as long as I watch coolant level and temp?
On a separate issue: I tried to use code reader but it would not connect to my car (had successfully connected at some point prior), I believe it may be because I have an aftermarket radio (the K-wire issue?). If that is true, should it resolve if I swap the stock radio back in? I need to be able to connect to the car eventually when it is time to renew registration (for state emissions control testing).
The remote locks on my 2000 Jetta GLX have been working intermittently for almost a year. I had been using the manual key to lock/unlock until finally the manual lock alarm disarm also became intermittent and I found myself stuck at a truck rest stop at 1:30 a.m. with my alarm repeatedly howling into the night and no way to disarm it. I felt caught. I felt trapped. Like I was found guilty of a crime I had never committed. I knew then - I had work to do.
My research in the forums indicated that the door lock assembly was a common culprit - a gremlin, often leaving headaches as it's only calling card. I worked quick, pulling a driver's side door lock assembly out of 2003 at the local junkyard and replacing it no problem. To my surprise, although this DID fix the manual locking/unlocking/alarm disarming problem, it DID NOT fix the remote unlock problem. The culprit was still at large.
Business as usual with intermittent remote unlocking/locking/trunk-popping for weeks until my dash threw the "AIR BAG FAULT" light. I decided to question a local garage owner who's VAGCOM told me that it was caused by something on the driver's side door. He was busy, but it reset fine and I was on my way. I know now that I should have asked for the code then but I was caught in the beauty of a girl who only nails polish was the grease and dirt of the car she worked under. And about a mile down the road, the light came back on.
Now, the "AIR BAG FAULT" light is on as soon as I start the car. However, the time seems to vary slightly before the Jetta beeps and tells me in faded red letters "AIR BAG FAULT". Sometimes right when I leave my driveway, sometimes not before I drive a mile or two down the road. My remote unlock is still working intermittently.
I need both my airbag fault and the remote unlock fixed. I'm wondering if these two problems are related? Like maybe there's a loose connection that is causing the airbag sensor to short and it's beeping when it bumps out of place and maybe the intermittent remotes are being caused by slamming of my driver's side door too hard & it's losing a connection as well. I tried putting a little conductivity jelly in the female clip that goes to the window regulator motor because I heard that the airbag sensor is in there somewhere but it didn't make a difference.
I've been having an issue with my car and the check engine light is on.
The code reads : P0030
Heated oxygen sensor - bank 1 sensor 1
heater control circuit
2001 VW GTI VR6 ....
I have a 2002 Jetta 1.8t. My check engine light came on and it gave me the code P0135 sensor heater circuit. Bank 1 Sensor 1. We bought a new 02 sensor and replaced it. We definitely bought the right one too. Cleared the codes. After a little driving the CEL came back on with the same code P0135. What is wrong and how I can fix this?
View 6 RepliesI recently picked up a 2000 jetta vr6 for a very good price its a glx I have owned a vr6 before and done timing chains myself on it this one is a glx , I am having 5 fault engine codes on my vagcom they are cam position sensor , knock sensor, secondary injection pump, and mass air flow it ran fine 100 miles yesterday this morning the epc came on then went off and ran bad can these codes all be related or do I have to replace each sensor individually..
View 9 RepliesHave 1994 F150 with 5.0L engine. Check engine light, intermittent on due to overheated O2 sensor. Replace sensor, light goes off. The sensor will last longer in cold weather but will fail with same code. Is the overheating due to an electrical problem from the ECU or ambient tempreture. Would like to sell truck but don't want to hand the buyer a dozen O2 sensors.
View 3 RepliesI need to know but I'm not near the car.
View 1 RepliesMy Daughters jetta will at time no start after it has been locked then unlocked. She told me that if the car doesn't beep when locked she sometimes has the problem.
The dash will light but no crank at all. Could this be an alarm issue or something else? I found others having a similar issue on Google but no fix or confirmation of the cause.
So my little brother bought a 2005 Vw gli, and it's been pretty good on him so far however, one day he was coming back from work and the car suddenly shut off on him and we haven't been able to get it to start.
(Haven't really been able to actually diagnose it fully since this is his second car)
Did the typical unplugging of the air mass sensor to see if it was that. Checked the relays to see if they clicked Checked all the fuses Checked the ignition switch Checked to see if fuel is getting to the injectors Checked some of the grounds( can't locate all of them)When I turn the key, the rpm needle moves a tiny bit
last weekend I was closing my sunroof and it went all the way shut, then started going back, just like your garage door does if you leave some stuff blocking the door. I stuck my hand in there and whisked around to see if there was anything blocking it but found nothing just dust. I didn't look closer because I was going down the highway 75mph at the time. Them the issue went away by itself and I left it shut.
View 6 RepliesI keep getting the error code P0420. Cat below threshold.
I have replace both the front and rear O2 sensors and we reset the check engine light. While driving through the cycles to reset the sensors for them to be ready for DEQ, the check engine light came on again.
I am about ready to buy the Cat Converter, but it is really expensive and if there are any other things that I can try before replacing the Cat I would like to try that first. Any other issues associated with that code, or should I just replace the Cat Converter as my next step.
I had my A/C and dryer replaced because the last one basically wore itself out after 135K miles on my '01 TDI.
After I got the car back, whenever the air condition is turned out, I sometimes get a very loud intermittent vibration.
I made a video: [URL] ....
What could be the cause of this?
My car sat for 2 days this week and was completely dead when I got back. I had the alternator and battery tested and they were both fine. I put everything back and ran a vag-com and it still shows running voltage at 9.7 volts. ABS and traction control lights are on intermittently. It seems to be having trouble starting which leads me to believe it's a bad starter but I don't know how that would drain my battery. The car also has a sunroof drain leak which got water on the monsoon amp. I've tried with and without the amp connected. No difference.
View 24 RepliesWhat are the symptoms of a bad o2 sensor, 2.0.. My son is having some problems with his car hesitating when he gets into the throttle and the only codes we are getting shows bad O2 sensor pre cat.
View 2 Replies2000 Jetta 2.0. 140k miles. Cranked, but would not fire. Sprayed starter fluid... nothing. No spark. Checked fuel pump and fuel pump relay, all is well. I let it sit over night. I tried starting it, ran for 4 to 5 seconds shut off. Disconnected MAF sensor, it ran. Put in a new MAF sensor, back to cranking no fire. Let it sit over night, started up again. Tried to drive, stalled. Unpliged MAF sensor, now its running. Drove around parking lot. Afraid to take it out, don't want to be stranded.
View 1 Replies2000 jetta vr6 manual 150k miles, i have trouble starting the engine so I thought i'd start by replacing the crankshaft sensor. I notice that its wet with oil when i pull it out, and wasn't sure if tits supposed to be dry. I may have a bad ECU in the end...
View 1 RepliesI would like to check the continuity between the sensor and the ecu. Looking for the diagram for this or know what pin # they would be on the ECU side.
View 17 RepliesI dont see anything attached to the manifold....
View 10 RepliesThis is on a 2001 golf, 5 speed, ALH.
Just went for a drive the other day and the ABS light started to flicker on, and then it was accompanied by 3 loud beeps, which I understand is the ABS warning.
Then the gauges all died like I turned the car off, but the engine was still running. No limp mode, no stumbling, nothing.
The needles then bounce back to where they should be, and various lights on the dash flicker, oil pressure, battery, etc. Not any pattern to them, they all just kind of blink on and off randomly. Then it will stop and run fine for 20-30 minutes (longest I have driven it like this)
Sometimes when I put the key in the on position before starting it, the gauges will do the same thing, without the beeping, and it is like I am cylcing the key on and off several times, needles on the fuel and temp gauge bounce between zero and their actual reading (other gauges don't move because I'm at zero rpm and zero mph)
I have replaced fuses 11 and 15, checked battery voltage with the car off, idling and at 2000 rpm, 12.3 volts with the car off, 14.3 with it idling and at 2000 rpm
The cheap code reader at the parts store gave me a P1650 code, which is intermittent communication error on canbus (paraphrasing) which makes sense for the symptoms, but I know on these cars sometimes a totally different system in the car can interfere elsewhere.
I am going to check/clean grounds, what else should I be looking for?