Golf IV / Jetta IV :: O2 Fault Codes Came Back After Sensor Replaced
Jun 15, 2015
Keep getting o2 fault codes. Replaced sensors came back. tried another set of sensors came back. Checked wiring for breaks no luck. Replaced ecu still no luck. So going through wiring again and checking for continuity. Looking for a list of what pins to check for voltages, and what each should be from ecu to sensor connectors. Looking for what wire is signal and how to and what voltages to check for...
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I recently picked up a 2000 jetta vr6 for a very good price its a glx I have owned a vr6 before and done timing chains myself on it this one is a glx , I am having 5 fault engine codes on my vagcom they are cam position sensor , knock sensor, secondary injection pump, and mass air flow it ran fine 100 miles yesterday this morning the epc came on then went off and ran bad can these codes all be related or do I have to replace each sensor individually..
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I have a 2003 VW GTI VR6. Prior to replacing the transmission there was no brake problems what so ever. Since the transmission was done I get the "Stop Brake Fault" light on the cluster Intermittently. It never seems to happen when braking. I have new brakes and rotors on all 4 corners. As I said this only started happening immediately after the transmission was replaced. I did check the wear sensor on the pad to make sure it wasn't disconnected during the install. Where else should I be looking? Could it be triggered if they didn't bleed the clutch slave properly?
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I am getting 20 intermittent ground fault codes and the kid I bought the car from had an alternator put in. I see a terminal closest to the front of the car on the alternator that has no thick wire attached to it and when I was at the junkyard they had wires connected to them. I cleaned all other grounds on the car that I can access so I think that could be the issue but I don't know where the wire should lead to and how the alternator should be grounded!
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I bought an 05 golf GL with a 2.0 and 5 speed in January for commuting to work.
Well, recently. I was on my way home from work, I'm an engine tech for Cummins Inc, and I notice my CEL came on and the car stalled multiple times at red lights. So I limped it home, connected my scanner and the fault was "Implausible signal from Mass Air Flow sensor". I cleared the fault code and tried to start the car. Nothing, no crank no start. Just an audible click from under the hood.
I disconnected the battery for 5 min reconnected it and it started fine. Drove it to work the next day, no issues. I tried to start it again and nothing, CEL was on again for the MAF sensor. I pop started it, car ran like hell, rough idle, low power, etc. luckily I have a dualy that I can drive in the mean time.
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Monday get CEL with codes p0722 and p0322. Car is in limp mode during these codes. Yesterday I change g68 sensor. Cleared codes, rough start but was sitting most of the week. Drove around fine, no limp mode, shifted fine. Started up a few times immediately after. Hours go by I go to leave and it won't turn over though it sounds its wants to. No clue why this is happening or what changing the sensor could have done. This is a 01 GLS 2.0 auto. Not sure where to from here especially since it drove so well afterwards.
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I replaced the knock sensor because I was getting the p0327 for the front knock sensor. Drove it again and still sputtering and CEL came back. What are other causes of this? N75 solenoid? Low fuel pressure?? It has a spectre air filter kit on it. Didn't know if this would do it. I cleaned maf. Just put new plugs in it too.
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The vehicle is a 2004 Jetta MK4 1.8t.
Last thing I had replaced about 2 months ago was the Solenoid valve, the MAF and Solenoid hose. Car ran fine for about a month, and bam...engine light came back on, along with the ASR light. At first it was saying "cat converter" so I researched that, and what a surprise, it spoke about being a $1k piece to replace. NOTHING HAS BEEN CHEAP ON THIS CAR, and I'm losing my mind.
The latest adventure happened today coming back from the gym. Car started jerking (which has been normal since every now and then the ASR light will come on, which I'm told is the traction control light. Causing the car to jerk. Simple fix is pulling over, shutting the car off, and turning it back on. That always clears it, and then I'm back on the road.) but instantly it lost power. It wont shift, but the traction control light didn't come on. I plugged my OBD2 tool up, and came back with these fault codes:
P0420: Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
P0753: Shift Solenoid "A" Electrical
P2637: Torque Management Feedback Signal A
I'm going to go to these guys tomorrow, but I would just like to get an educated guess on what might be going on, so I don't look like a lost dog while they're figuring out what to do next. These guys seem knowledgeable, but they're missing something since I've been in and out of their shop several times and still getting my traction control light on at random times, and now all 3 of these codes.
Does that Solenoid code have anything to do with the Solenoid valve they put in? I was told that cleaning the throttle body and the cat converter might work. Would those be cheaper options to consider, and see if that works?
I also read that unplugging the alternator and plugging it back in, then cleaning the male and female with electrical cleaner might work. I was told about a month ago that my battery barely passed. Could this be causing any of my issues? I also did a log while I was driving, but all that's showing up is a google map document.
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Had to replace my primary O2 sensor recently. I got the sensor straight from VW and it comes with all sorts of clips and whatnot. Looking for a picture of how the wiring is supposed to be routed and what I'm supposed to do with all of the plastic clip pieces?
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I have a 2008 MK4 2.0 with only 53,000kms. At 40,000Kms I put new OEM spark plugs.
Just recently, every morning when I start the engine is sputtering and rough running. The engines want to die but I give a little gas, and run rough like it is only firing on two or three cylinders.
When it gets to the normal operating coolant temperature it runs without any problem and I can use the AC. Its only give me this problem on the first start of the day.
Does not have any MIL light on the instrument panel. I scan it with VCDS-Lite and do not found any fault codes. The only thing that's come to my mind is to change the Green Coolant Sensor.
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I started my car the other day and found that it only drives the first gear and I can also put it in reverse. VCDS gave me a 00281 code saying no signal from Vehicle Speed Sensor G68. I replaced the sensor, but it still doesn't go into gear beyond 1st.
VCDS gives me the following codes after replacing G68.
2 Faults Found:
00652 - Gear Monitoring
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
00281 - Vehicle Speed Sensor (G68)
03-00 - No Signal
I came across TSB 01-99-02 which says something about the codes being incorrect. It seemed a little vague about whether it is actually G38 or G22. I don't want to buy more sensors only to have it be something else. The speedometer and tach work fine so G22 doesn't seem likely to me.
The VCDS site says it could be several things including bad G68 or G38 sensor, low fluid & bad valve body. Was it the G38 sensor?
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I bought a 2001 golf gls 1.8T (AWW) about a month ago and it was running pretty bad, was throwing some codes, cylinder 1 misfire and some o2 sensor codes, I replaced the coil packs and spark plugs and then cleaned the MAF. It was still running bad ,rough idle and power loss. I figured it had to be some kind of vacuum leak, I replaced the PCV valve, cleaned the intercooler and put on a silicon TIP. Still had some rough idle and power loss, checked for vacuum leaks, using the good ole starter fluid method and found my intake manifold was leaking so I replaced that gasket. STILL rough idle and power loss, now I'm pulling codes for o2 sensor and a misfire in cylinder 3. My question is, should I replace my pre-cat o2 sensor or replace my MAF sensor? Or are there other things that should also be checked/replace.
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So my girlfriends's 2001 2.0 Golf (engine code AVH, 153k miles) began throwing codes for misfire on cylinder 4 and for the o2 sensor (post-cat) recently. I went ahead and replaced the spark plugs, wireset, and the coil pack. They were way overdue. The CEL went away for like 30 miles, and then came back. Now it's reading misfire on cylinder 3 and the same thing for the o2 sensor. What else it could be? Search is coming up blank, most people replaced the coil pack and the CEL went away.
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I've got a 2003 Jetta Wolfsberg that is acting up, I'll do my best to describe and outline the steps I've taken with the mechanic to fix the problem,
Occasionally, when starting the car one of two things happens, (1) engine turns over, fires, and then dies. Removing the key, letting the car sit for 30 seconds and trying again usually gets the car started. (2) The car will start but will run VERY roughly (misfiring, sounding like the engine is choking out). Very much like this (only sometimes much worse, usually ending in a stall): [URL] ....
Turning the car off, removing the key, letting it sit, and then trying it again will eventually work, even though it might take a few cycles. Once the car gets running it almost always runs fine from thereon. (There have been a couple occasions where the car has gone into limp mode, even on the freeway. Pulling over, letting it sit, and starting it again almost always fixes the problem. I've not yet been stranded.)
Diagnosis & Steps taken:
I get regular codes for the camshaft position sensor and also for the MAP (Barometric pressure) sensor. Both have been replaced.The MAP sensor and the atmospheric pressure readings are off by about 30 (something like 960 and 990). My mechanic thought that maybe it was an electrical problem, he noted that the two sensors mentioned above share a common ground. He replaced the ground because it looked corroded. This brought the pressure numbers both to 990 and the car ran perfectly for a few weeks.One thought was to splice in a new wire to the MAP sensor, to see whether it was a signal problem, this hasn't been done yet. Another possibility was that there is a problem with the ECM.
I THINK, that the problems began just after having the computer flashed at the dealership two years ago. I'd got a code about an update and so the dealership did this. I don't know whether this could have had any effect on these problems, but the times lined up too well to not mention it.
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I have just replaced the abs ecu and have cleared the codes, thought all was gonna be good but now two code are still coming up they are:
01044 Transmission control module - incorrectly coded
00778 Steering angle sensor-G85
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I found the fault codes, I need the steps to fix them.
P0760 - Shift Solenoid,
CP0755 - Shift Solenoid
BP0340 - Camshaft piston sensor "A" Circuit
P0335 - Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit
I'd like to think it's as easy as replacing the sensors, but it never is.
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I checked my engine codes after the engine light came on. They were P0133 and another indicating an A/F upstream sensor problem. I had it replaced by an independent mechanic. A few days after I had the same code. Mechanic went over it and thought it was loose wiring. A few days after codes P0133 and P0128 were generated. Now the light will come on every few days, will stay off for a few. Do I have to get my computer upgraded? Honda 05 CRV ...
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What can be done regarding these faults? P0037 and P0057
Description:
Oxygen Sensor Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1, Sensor 2)
Oxygen Sensor Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 2, Sensor 2)
The catalytic converters have been removed but the fault was present before that anyway. All I want is the VSC function to work again and the lights to go off. I have heard you can put dummy sensors in.
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Got a 'Tire Pressure Sensor Fault' message a few times on the way back from Florida. Tire pressures were all fine. Hate that it doesn't say which monitor has the problem. Anyway... it comes on, but after a few minutes goes back off. Saw it a total of three times over the course of 1,000 miles in two days. Is this the sensor failing and requiring replacement? Or is the system itself starting to fail? Would ESP cover this?
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I have a o3 sc430 that's driving me crazy I have replaced the 02 sensor on my car three times and the cars vsc and check engine light comes back on after driving less then a mile. If I really step on the gas it'll come on faster. Where should I look for a vacuum leak? The mechanic says it could be electrical problems too...
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I just posted last week that my check engine light was on and the dealer wanted to replace fuel injectors. But after the fuel throttle was cleaned and oxygen sensor was replaced the check engine light went off. However, yesterday the check engine light came back on. I am talking it back to the dealer, in a couple of days. Where can I go to get to get the error codes read so I have them before I go back to the dealer? Around 128,000 runs fine, around 40 miles per gallon. Last time I had the oil change dealer nothing came up on the 30 point inspection.
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