Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Noise On Acceleration
Jun 12, 2016
Currently on my 1.8T I'm running a 3 inch catless downpipe into a stock res and muffler, it's great noise on acceleration but I've been told and found through research that if I want idle noise and a deeper tone I should take out the resonator, my question is what's it going to sound like on a catless downpipe with the stock muffler and no res also will there be enough back pressure to start okay and not loose any power, my last question is what's it going to be like on the highway when I'm at high Rpms for a long period is it annoying or does it sound nice ? What about cutting out the res with a 3 inch catless downpipe
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I have a 2002 Jetta GLS that I got recently, it has 136,XXX miles on it and has a whine sounds like coming from the transmission or differential that starts around 2000-2500 rpm and gets a bit quieter at 3000. Transmission shifts smoothly, fresh oil change on trans and differential with no difference. It does not whine if the car is parked and you rev the engine, only does it while driving. Transmission is automatic
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02J-EGT 5spd. OEM axles.
Sounds like it's coming from the front. I noticed a few months ago my inner passenger CV boot was cracked, put motor mount spacers in which should have hopefully brought that axle up to okay standards. My initial reaction is to say the howling is from that CV joint however it's very odd it only happens after 35 and when I'm not heavy accelerating or deaccelerating- only when holding the car at a constant speed.
This also came after doing the TDI 5th. I notice it a little bit after passing 35mph in 3rd but really can hear it in 4th/5th when the engine revs drop. Am I right in thinking CV boot? Or transmission internal?
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My VR6 is making a ticking sound when i accelerate, between 2800-3100, then it dies down a little and then gets loudest at about 3600-4000. The noise stops at exactly 4000rpms every time. Here is a sound clip of what the noise sounds like... you can hear it best in the last 15 seconds or so in the video. Maybe its the timing chains...
[URL] .....
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So a while ago I had no power. The car seemed to idle fine but when I would accelerate, there was no power. Being I just took this into the dealer for the same issue, could I have a bad diverter from the dealer or a possible bigger issue.
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My 01 gti VR6 just started shaking pretty hard under acceleration on the front end. I'm guessing I snapped something or loosened something on launch. It was running fine on the way to the hardware store. Then I took off quickly because of oncoming traffic and suddenly it started shaking on the whole front end. I can feel it and see it from the wheel to the dashboard. It happens around 30 Mph. I picked up the car put it on jack stands and when the load is off the tires it doesn't seem to shake. Being that it happened so suddenly I am not leaning towards a bent rim or alignment. I don't see much wear to the dog mount underneath and the engine doesn't seem to rock much when revving or putting in gear so I'm not thinking much for broken engine mounts.
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1.8T ... Well, initially, engine light came on with a violent shake from the engine compartment. It was really really bad. I thought the engine mount just broke off or something...
First I looked at the coil packs and the spark plugs. The spark plugs were pretty old (I got the 02 Jetta 1.8T at ~140k miles for 1k, so no surprises). Spark plug on cylinder 2 was real bad, and that was the cylinder with the misfire code. Got a new set of spark plugs first. It worked a lot and the violent shuddering mostly went away.
The engine still idled erratically jumping and dipping at idle, even with the A/C off. So I replaced the coil pack on cylinder 2 after doing the coil pack switch test... After replacing the one coil pack, the engine idles like like it's new.
When I put the car in neutral and rev the engine to the redline, it revs nicely, very smooth. When I drive the car, when I accelerate reasonably slowly with the traffic, the car drives just fine. If I keep the car in lower gears and use light throttle to accelerate, it is smooth even past the rpm range where the turbo would be spooled up.
It is only when I dip into the throttle a bit more (no where near full throttle) to try to pass a car or accelerate just a bit harder, a little past ~2200rpm ish which is when the turbo starts spooling from the sound of it, it starts shuddering badly, and check engine light comes back on. The code shows misfire in cylinder 2.
My guess is there's something off with fuel system. My non-mechanic thought process is that maybe the injector is clogged and when it's light throttle, light acceleration, it injects little fuel and its ok, but when under heavier load / throttle, it tries to inject more fuel, but can't because it's clogged...
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My GF recently picked up a 1.8t (AWW) and we scanned it with vag com before she bought. We knew it had some misfires and a few other small problems so when it ran at higher RPMs we didn't think anything of it.
Fast forward to now after replacing some parts (hoses, coil packs etc...) and still the RPMs seem a little high compared to my mk4 vr6. On the streets in 4th gear, my car stays around 2200 and on the hwy its probably around 3300 in 5th gear at 75mph.
On the streets, her 1.8t seems normal but on the hwy in 5th gear, she's at nearly 4k. So my question... Do 1.8ts run at higher rpms under normal driving?
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I just recently bought a 2001 Jetta with the 1.8t (AWD) because it had low mileage and a reasonable price. I've never owned a VW before so I know very little about them in general. This is my second vehicle with a turbo, my first was a Saab 93.
When I purchased the car it had the check engine light on and the codes were Vehicle Speed Sensor and Secondary Air Injection Pump. I was able to get it to stop throwing those codes just by cleaning off the components and reconnecting them. The only predominant problem I've been experiencing is that under hard acceleration in 3rd-5th the car will jump and jerk. Its almost like the car isn't getting enough fuel/air but I'm not entirely sure if that's an accurate diagnosis. I've ruled out transmission issues because there are no problems when driving at a slow-normal acceleration. Any insight on where I should begin to fix this issue would be welcomed because I feel as if my motor mounts will break due the force of the jerking.
My last issue has to do with what happened yesterday. My check engine light came back on randomly when I cranked my car. I had no issues the previous day (besides the aforementioned "jerking) so it seemed odd but what really worried me was when I started driving. Whenever I would release the accelerator the car would slow down suddenly as if I applied the brake. The problem continued throughout the day until I got the codes checked and they read Vehicle Speed Sensor (which I've seen has numerous issues from the factory installation) and the Bank 1 O2 sensor. Today I started my car and the check engine light wasn't on.
My car drove like normal (still the hard acceleration jerking but no dramatic deceleration when I release the accelerator). Now to my question, can an O2 sensor cause a problem like this? Maybe the MAF is bad? Not even sure if this vehicle will throw a code for the MAF ...
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I have a 04.5 GLI 1.8t, performance mods include, cone filter on the end of my maf, silicone TIP, Forge splitter, 3in custom tbe and unitronics stage 2
I started noticing this problem on the day I got the car tuned, I hadn't noticed it before hand. I replaced the spark plugs and it worked a little, but it continues to do it.
The problem: When I get on it at WOT under full boost, around 2500 rpms, the car loses all torque, misfires spits and sputters throughout the rpm range until about 5300 rpms then it all of a sudden has torque and pulls great.
I don't have any boost leaks that I know of along with vaccum leaks. There is no flashing cel or misfire code for my coil packs. Can this be a faulty n75 valve? if so what could fix it?
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I have a 2002 VW jetta 1.8t recently I've noticed that in 5th gear around 35-45 mph its losing acceleration. its a tiptronic so i can just downshift speed up a bit an o to 5th, however I don't want that to be the permanent fix, what this is or why its doing it?
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My car is stored outside rather than in a garage in winter. I do notice bogging or "gargled" acceleration maybe 4/10 on occasional days and sometimes the engine light will come once this happens and then other times it doesn't come on when it occurs. Engine light usually comes on rarely but when it does, it's when the bogging is really bad.
Question is what would be the most cost effective way to solve or find out what the issue is? And/ or, what would you think the underlying issue would be for starters? Also, does my year car have a MAF sensor? BTW the cabin filter and air filter were just changed a few months ago but unsure if this would include the shop cleaning the MAF if I do in fact have one.
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My '01 VR6 GTI with new struts, A-arms, ball joints, wheel bearings, tie-rods and ends, etc. has started to get a shimmy through the steering only under acceleration. Half-shafts?
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Situation 01 Jetta AEG 2.0L codes catalyst below threshold and random misfires.
•found exhaust clogged due up catalyst. It was actually making contact with the rear O2
-replaced cat as an assembly and reset codes with Ross-tech
• start up, idles perfect no hesitation smooth. Road tested it and upon entering freeway ramp at it started stuttering/misfiring
• CEL flashed for cylinder 3 & 4. Inspected wires found #3 lost continuity, installed new wires.
•road tested and same result but only 4 came back. Swap plug with #2 and retested.
• #3 and 4 misfire came back again
- shooting in the dark to identify which way to go with it I tested:
•compression was solid 140
•fuel pressure 35 psi at idle and 45 when snapping the throttle.
-Suspicious spec is 55-72psi
•squeezed the return line to inspect if the Fuel pressure regulator valve possibly leaking excess.
Psi never went higher than 45 at idle and throttle snap to wot
•graphed the tps signal smooth with out drops or glitches up to values of 84 according to toss tech scan tool
•looking at measiring blocks one item that was odd is engine load at idle 99.5%
-swapped parts with known good parts with a good running 2002 Jetta aeg motor.
•MAF -no change
•ignition control module/ coil pack no change
-today ill be checking fuel pressure at the fuel pump and inspect if the fuel filter possibly clogged.
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Firstly, my car is a 2001 with a 1.8T, 5 speed manual. It has APR's 93 with the mode-switching software, a FMIC, a short ram air intake, the SAI delete and the original DV (used to be a Forge 007). I bought the car in 2008 and it didn't have this problem until the following winter, sold it in 2012 and recently bought it back from the guy I sold it to.
My car will start and idle great, and accelerate through first gear without problem. In second and third gear, when it hits around 3000 RPM, it just suddenly starts to sputter and run like crap and not get any kind of boost. Fourth and fifth gear, I can run it until it peaks and it'll never miss a beat. It only does this when it gets cold outside (sub-30 degrees) and is perfectly fine the other nine months out of the year. I usually don't drive it in the winter if it's avoidable, but I have to travel a lot this year and would like to drive it instead of my truck.
In the past few years/15K miles, I've replaced:
- All four coilpacks
- All new spark plugs
- New coilpack harnesses
- Catalytic Converter
- Throttle body (twice)
- Diverter valve (back to stock, other owner did it)
- SAI delete (other owner did it)
- Fuel Filter
- O2 sensor
- ECU (the factory one got shorted and had to be replaced back in '08)
I've also gone through and checked every vacuum line and can't find any leaks (including spray testing). My CEL is on due to the SAI delete. I've tried it in both the stock and APR mode and it doesn't make a difference.
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My TDI has slow acceleration, just curious if that was common. How do u check turbo. I can still hear it. its now very loud though. Its especially slow when going up a steep hill. anyway to make that faster???
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Have an 04 Jetta GLS 1.8t manual. While accelerating at lower rpm and I'm kind of on the gas to get up and go it starts bogging out. Could almost describe it as a little jerky. Anything over 3000 rpm there's no issue. Doesn't matter what gear I'm in either.
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With 132k on the clock, motor has shutters at idle and rattles under acceleration even though seems pull smoothly otherwise - if that makes sense. Anyway, changed plugs and coil packs all without any results. No codes either from the computer. Shop thinks it could be a timing chain tensioner but after spending as much as I have to this point, can't really afford to just start trying things.
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Well its a 1.8t pretty much stock except the previous owner added a turbo-back exhaust and has an apr tune running the 91/93 octane tune and they also deleted the stock airbox.
After the car warms up sometimes I'll get a pretty big puff of smoke on acceleration from a stop. sort of bluish in color and it happens randomly, not every time. I usually have to add oil about every week. I have taken it to a mechanic but told me it wasnt the turbo ( cause thats what i thought at first) and that it might be valve seals instead. I scanned for codes since CEL went on and i got a p0136 o2 sensor code and p0411.
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2002 AVH Jetta Wagon. When I got the car back in 2012 it had 121K and I changed the wires (ngk blue 57021) and plugs (ngk platinum) and she drove like a dream. A couple of months later I started having issues with wet weather and moisture causing misfires so I did the JB WELD fix and though I'd still get the occasional misfire in hard rains it lasted me pretty much until very recently, when I decided I needed to put in a new coil because the problem was getting worse (hardly starting up after a rain and bucking wildly till things dried out). Yesterday, I replaced the BERU with a new HUCO and the car started up fine and drove fine all day. I think there was a lot of moisture in the air last night and possibly some rain but this morning, SAME PROBLEM with a new coil. Misfiring like crazy, no acceleration.
I thought the NGK wires and plugs I got were rated to last beyond 20,000 miles. At this point should I assume the wires are to blame? Split somewhere or something? It's definitely related to water and the electrical system.
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My friend has 2000 12v vr6 auto and recently he experienced his car bogging under acceleration. He had the plugs and wires recently done to solve the problem and the problem went away for a day and has since returned. I scanned it and here are the codes that its threw. After doing some research i'm thinking its the coil pack, since it was pretty foggy/damp today (when the problem started again).
17626.p1218 - fuel injector for cylinder 6 (N84): short to b+
16690.p0306 - Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected
16684.p0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
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