Golf IV / Jetta IV :: No Power / Throttle Response When Cold
Jun 29, 2014
In the mornings no power/ no throttle response when cold, another starts at same day fine til next morning. Car is golf iv vr6 4 motion...
5 Faults Found:
17535 - Fuel Trim: Bank 1 (Mult): System too Rich
P1127 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17537 - Fuel Trim: Bank 2 (Mult): System too Rich
P1129 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17545 - Fuel Trim: Bank 1 (Add): System too Rich
P1137 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17547 - Fuel Trim: Bank 2 (Add): System too Rich
P1139 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17551 - Load Calculation Cross Check: Upper Limit Exceeded
P1143 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Also O2 sensor show on idle -20% to -15% (engine temp 60 C) but vagcom normal was (-10% to 10%) (after reading from ross-tech, maybe O2 readings are off because running rich) and intake air temp was 29`C but outside were 17`C, it has new maf...
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Mk4 jetta 1.8t ECP light is on, when I lightly push gas, car stalls and cuts off. Where to begin? Here's the vagcom readings:
906-032-AWP.lbl
Part No: 06A 906 032 LP
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0007
Coding: 07500
Shop #: WSC 78901
VCID: 77FDFDB25513C5A6AAD-5140
3VWSE69M12M090016 VWZ7Z0A4180723
18 Faults Found:
[Code] ....
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I was driving home yesterday, when all of a sudden felt like the car downshifted by its self. I tried giving it gas but nothing happened. The car still starts up and runs fine there's just no throttle response. I had to drive it home by riding the gears. Today i scanned the car and a few codes came up. I already had some previous codes because my secondary air injection pump is deleted and same with an evap solenoid also had some codes for injectors but im pretty sure that's cause they're not stock and the resistance isn't the same. The codes that popped up including the previous ones.
P1631 accelerator position sensor g79
P1634 accelerator position sensor limp mode?
p1469 evap code
P1433 secondary air pump
P1690 malfunctioning cell light
Im pretty sure that's what each code is for. The last 3 codes were previously existing and the car drove fine.
Anyways i tried cleaning up the contacts on the gas pedal, didn't work. So I looked under my car to look for damaged 02 wires, which i found. Did a super shotty temporary fix, and still nothing works. I heard maybe it could be my ecu? The car is a 1999.5 golf originally a 2.0 but has been swapped with a awp 1.8t out of a 20th, 5 speed Lots of work done to the engine.
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I have a very very strange thing happening in my 2004 vw jetta 1.8t. at random times the car will lose boost and throttle response. I am not sure what it could be I have replaced quite a few parts and it still happens.
No matter what speed or how much boost the car will just drop pressure and the throttle goes numb. For example I will be cruising on the highway around 80 on 0lbs of boost or a few and then the throttle just quits, at that point I can push the throttle to the floor and no response.
To fix it I have to lift my foot off the throttle completely and then go back on to rebuild boost or pressure. There is no pattern on when it happens, its happened from 10mph to 90mph and it happened ins 8lbs of boost or in vacuum. When I lose boost or pressure the boost gauge drops the needle to the bottom of vacuum at like 30.
Things I've replace:
- diverter valve
- n75
- throttle pedal
- checked throttle body sensors
- replacing maf this week
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I have just taken a red mk4 r32 home. It feels really down on power and throttle is really snappy when try to take off.
If im going along at any speed say 20-50mph and lift the throttle off it gets a quick burst of acceleration. I think its had a Celtic remap if that means anything. also gets some crackling and popping even with the cats still on it.
Also cleaned the throttle body made no difference. I am also sure i can hear a vacuum leak when going through streets. Just replaced MAF and Lambda sensor. no other codes coming up on diagnostics.
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Had brought this up before but it seems like the thread got black holed. After my car warms up, it feels quite a bit down on power and throttle response is a bit jerky. I just replaced the MAF and the coils hopping it would work, no codes on VAG Com. I was thinking maybe the green coolant temp sensor went out ? Car does backfire a bit when decelerating. Also the RPMs drop down a bit slower than normal lately.
Cam sensors are not loose.
GIAC chip, EVO intake + stage 2, exhaust. 134k miles.
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When the engine is cold, and up to about half way to 190 degrees on the temp gauge, the throttle seems to not want to open very far. Almost like there is a disconnect between your foot and the throttle. You get a little acceleration but no where as much as when the engine has warmed up. I have noticed this when the outside air temp is below 25 f or so. Is this some goofy emissions or "save the motor until its warm" thing?
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Uneven throttle response during cold weather engine warm-up? When sub freezing weather arrived a few weeks ago my 2010 Prius developed uneven acceleration during engine warm-up. The car was purchased in October and it ha less than 3,000 miles.
Gradual depression of the accelerator results in a very small, tiny in fact, amount of increasing power to the wheels, not in proportion to the usual smooth and responsive amount of cold starts above freezing temperatures.
Continued depression leads to a point about halfway to the floor when the engine, which of course has been running all along, suddenly surges and the car takes off with a jolt of power. Not smooth, impossible to control well and unacceptable. Many would say this is unsafe.
My 2005 Prius never had, and my wife's 2007 does not have this issue. Could be a cold weather related accelerator defect as with the Camrys, but this is not mechanical sticking as was the case with the Camrys, its an electronics error like a faulty sensor or cold start injector.
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My accelerator is very "slowpoke", anything I can do?
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I am leaving from a meeting with my business partner and taking a left turn at about 10mph and very light throttle due to a rough road. All of the sudden I've got nothing. No throttle response and my car starts chugging bad. Then I see the EPC light on. I shut the car off as it sounds like I have only 2 cyls firing. start her back up and boom, normal again. No power loss, no lights, nothing. I immediately thought water pump. not the case though obviously. From what I can tell the EPC will come on for multi misfires. but for it to come on that suddenly for no apparent reason and then just be fine when I shut off and restart, I would assume this may be an ecu or coil issue.
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I've noticed that my throttle response is pretty weak. Doesn't seem to just go when ya put the pedal down. I mean it goes but not as fast as i think it should. is this how it is on all our cars? kinda seems like it has a hesitation or something. Anything I could do about this?
IMG : [URL] ...
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My wife got a 2014 Tiguan (R-Line) yesterday. Nice car but throttle response is slow.
Wondered to know about APR Stage 1 tune on a Tiguan.
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Driving Down the highway at approximately 80 mph. Adjusting my electronic boost controller for more boost, I input the values set it and slowly accelerated in fifth gear reached max boost around 90 mph all of a sudden I Lost all throttle response EPC light ESP come on and I start decelerating. The pullover to the side of the road and I hook up my generic OBD2 scanner comes up with the code P0606 (001542 - Internal Control Module: Processor Fault == 214b) and P2106 (Throttle Valve Actuator Module (J338): Power Limited due to Malfunction. After scanning and reading and looking up with the codes were disconnected the battery reconnected the battery and tried to start the car again but this Time Rd., Ranger pulled up behind me blocked traffic so I can get back on the highway soon as I get on the highway CEL back on run the code real quick message airflow sensor. Get off the next exit go to the gas station shut the car off disconnect and reconnect the mass airflow sensor clear the code get back on the highway check engine light does not come back on but idles fine 14 to 1 air fuel ratio but if I step on the gas and hit boost it goes all the way lean 60 mile an hour cruising speed it stayed at like between 13.9 and 15:1. Also got a CEL earlier in the day for p0040 (oxygen sensor swapped bank 1 sensor 1, Bank 2 sensor1.
Hpa air/water intercooler
Sri
9:1 weisco pistons
I.e. H beam rods
870cc injectors
Unitronic big turbo 870 tune
Gerrett gt35r
Full custom 3" exhaust
#ctsturbo downpipe
Ctsturbo turbo manifold
New gizmo electronic boost controller
Engine has Aprox 2300 miles body frame has about 79000.
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I know that sport mode raises the rpm at which shifts occur, but it feels like this mode also makes the throttle response more sensitive. Though, this could be because Sport keeps the needle in the primo range of the power band.
And at the risk of turning this thread into another topic: Does race, either over revving at a light, or just being passes aggressively and stuff like that? This is somewhat geographically dependent. I am originally from PA and live here now and people try and race me all the time, or drive more agressively around me than I feel they otherwise would were in a less sick car.
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Its been happening to me for a while now, but it seems to be more frequent. ill b driving around casually, go to pass someone or just accelerate hard then quickly up shift and get back on the throttle. I hear the engine begin to rev up again after the gear change but it takes a second or so until i feel the car continue accelerating. also i can feel the haldex system when it switches between fwd and awd or whatever it does. like you can hear it catch and def feel it lurch around. and clutch pedal vibrate a lot when any pressure is applied to it. is this normal?
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i got a 99 F250 powerstroke with 148K on its clock, i have a couple issues that i cant find a definitive answer for, 1 just started recently, Its an automatic and when it shifts into third around 40 mph the rpms drop to 1200-1300 or so, its done it since i got it, but recently it wont accelerate like it should or used to do, i have to put it down and make it downshift to recover.
Now I have no CEL. and it is still running perfect just has very little power, I do have a 4 inch turbo back exhaust and have a TS 6 position chip with i usually run in +50hp mode, but it does this in all positions. Now issue 2 is when its 30 degrees sometimes it will not start. It'll turn over with now fire. but if i cycle the key again it'll fire right up like a champ? It has a 4 month old starter and batteries and a month old alternator and i have tried several CPS' and Contently check the connections.
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I just changed timing belt all accessory belts and water pump on my 2001 Hyundai Elantra. Now the check engine light is on and it is sluggish in throttle response. It sounds smooth. I was quite sure I had the cam and crank marks dead on. I turned it 2 revolutions by hand and they both looked dead on before I started it. If I were off 1 or 2 teeth would that be the cause? And if so how do I fix it? Also will it hurt it to drive it that way?
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I finally finished installing my VF stage 2 supercharger. I fired it up and the idle is low (around 500 rpms) and a very rough idle. Throttle response is very slow, when it finally revs the car stalls. I can also hear a leak somewhere near the throttle body. I have an SAI block off plate. 630cc injectors and UM tune. No CEL
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I've got an '04 VW Golf that has recently taken to occasional bouts of no throttle response from the accelerator pedal. This has happened a handful of times during the past few months and until this morning occured only while driving on the highway at a constant rate of speed (~58-60mph). What happens is the engine will start to decelerate as though I've taken my foot off the gas but my foot hasn't moved off of the accelerator. The car's a manual transmission and for no good reason I usually shift into 4th gear (out of 5th) slap down the accelerator pedal a couple time to rev the engine while the cluth is depressed between gears and the accelerator will wake up and I'll get throttle response again and all's well. This morning it happened twice on the highway and once in first gear starting from a stop at an intersection. I'm worried I may not make it home... This is Minnesota and it's very cold -- could it have something to do with the temperature?
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My 7.3 has no throttle response, the code reader says pass, and there are no codes, would it do this even thow it has a bad TPS?
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I just installed the BSH turbo inlet pipe as well as the Neuspeed P-Flo intake.
Install was pretty simple, the only things that gave me trouble were those stupid clamps on the inlet of the turbo and on the maf, just because they are a pain in to get off ..but anyway im very impressed with it so far. It looks great and high quality. It sounds amazing! Not too loud that it gets annoying, but still gives that p hhhhh sssss sound that everyone loves.. The turbo sounds much meaner and there seems to be a significant increase in throttle response. At first i didnt really notice much power gains, but after driving it for about two days, i've noticed that my top end is a lot better and it pulls alot harder on the freeway and in 6th gear.
I also installed the forge diverter valve yesterday and like everyone says, its not much louder than with the stock diverter but it did gave the intake more of a flutter sound.
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