Golf IV / Jetta IV :: No Dash / Radio Lights And Cooling Fan - AC Clutch Will Not Engage
Jul 23, 2014
Just picked up a 2004 MK4 Jetta GLS 2.0 for really cheap.
As the title reads I have found some issues with the car after giving it a once over.
Dash/Radio lights - My Dimmer Switch is not getting power. I was wondering what the next step would be. I checked all the fuses and there is no issue.
Cooling Fan - I read about testing the plug and a CFM. Which should be done first?
A/C - I changed Electrical-Switch & Relay: A/C Clutch Switch and it did not fix the issue.
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My AC doesn't work right now, however, sometimes it works. It's very random, it doesn't matter if its hot outside or if its cool.
What happens is my AC clutch doesn't engage. when I turn ac on, it raises the idle for a second, and as soon as it does that, my ac compressor gets around 12 volts for less than a second, and the idle drops again. it does that in a loop.
My fans work fine, both high and low speeds, everything else works, all the fuses are good. I changed the pressure switch, didn't fix the problem. I also checked the ac coil and clutch. everything clicks and works. ground on the compressor is good.
Other odd thing - positive wire on the compressor constantly getting around 3 volts. What can it be and what else do i need to check?
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AC went out last week, was working great earlier that day. Checked under the hood and the clutch isn't engaging. Noticed an RPM spike every four seconds or so at idle when the AC was on. Checked voltage coming off the wires that go to the clutch and saw a voltage spike from essentially nothing to 9-12V which occurred in sync with the RPM spike. I poked a screw driver in the high pressure port and got a nice blast of coolant so I figured refrigerant isn't the issue.
Fuses are all good, in car and on battery. Replaced the fan control module and now there's no RPM spike and I get a constant 12v with the AC on at the clutch wire, but it still doesn't engage.
It's a 2000 Jetta 2.0 auto.
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I had to replace one of my Ac lines. The skinnier one.I have never seen the air work in this car. That line was broke since I have owned it.
I went to try and fill it today with r134. I have as much pressure on the low side as I can put in. (55 says the cheap gauge) But when I turn the car on the clutch does not engage to cycle the freon so no cold air. What I know,The fans do not turn on when Ac button pushes.The connector to the compressor only read 4v. I cannot get any number on the high pressure switch connector. (3 pin)
I don't know if it just doesn't turn on because nothing in the high side? Is there a way to bypass? I read jumping the switch is a bad idea.
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I got a 2003 GTI 1.8t and the AC air is blowing warm. With the car on, AC on and fans full blast both rad fans turn on but compressor clutch does not engage. Took it to a shop and the mechanic said the system was full of refrigerant but that the compressor was not getting the proper signal and there was an electrical problem.
I check the power at the compressor and it is reading about 7 volts, which is low correct? That should be getting 12-13 volts correct? I also check the pressure switch over by the passenger side and it was getting 13v. What to check next to start ruling out causes? Any quick way to determine whether this is electrical or a compressor issue? I am limited in my abilities as far as electrical work goes.
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So I just bought a 2000 MK4 Jetta for a $1000, its been ok, replaced the breaks, rear calipers, swapped in new headlight socket, swapped in amber tails, new plug wires, new drive belt, water pump/ timing belt all new.
Car has 173,xxx and i drive in pretty bad traffic daily, there are times when i am going to accelerate and between 2-3k RPM it feels like the clutch disengages then re-engages for a split second. then continues to drive normal, happens 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. Is this the clutch slipping? will it be fixed if i were to order a new clutch kit? I am on a budget and do all my own work, so i can't afford to buy a new clutch kit and have this not fix the problem.
Also, the car gets a little wiley on the free way, feels like its the struts, but the steering wheel vibrates a bit, i just found out the PO had different rims on the car before. So the tires might need to be balanced. I JUST Ordered new Racelands hopefully to stop the creaking/bounciness of the suspension. How to get this steering in check.
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I just recently my dash lights went out. As well as the left orange light up front and my left running tail light (brake light comes on still). Where did you start to trouble shoot this?
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The switch for my lights have been giving me some issues recently. When I switch it on its turns on all my exterior lights but my dash lights don't come on. If I play with it for a little switching back and forth it will eventually work but it's really annoying.
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Noticed this afternoon that as it got dark outside, all dash and door lights aren't working.
The gauge cluster lights, VERY dimly, but delays by appx 2 seconds before coming on? Only switch light that still works right is the Red ring on the Headlight switch.
Again this is all lights, except lights in headliner work fine, gauge cluster lights very dimly with a delay?
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So I just got a new car tonight (01 Jetta 1.8t) traded my tdi for it. They failed to tell me about the lighting problem. The dash light (blue ones that light up whole dash) only work sometimes. Don't work when headlight switch is on (have euro switch) but they will work sometimes if you put the left blinker or hazard lights on. Illumination for window / lock controls are glowing red, same as all the buttons by the vents up top of the radio, ac / climate control lights not working. They did end up telling me that they swapped the other car they had (2L golf mk4) and they swapped in that dash and it worked no issues. Do I need a whole new cluster?? Or is there something I can try to fix it?
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My car not starting at times. the issue goes like this i'll start it up drive it to where i need to go park it do what i need to do come back out to the car and it wont start there;s no clicking from the starter or anything but all my dash lights and electronics work and after trying to start the car for about 15-20 min it'll start up no problem. i went and had the battery and starter tested and they said it was fine. all i can think of is that its the ignition switch but i don't wanna go out and spend close to 100 bucks to replace this if its not the problem.
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I have a 02 golf and it runs great other then the reoccurring problem i have been experiencing. The problem doesn't happen every time i drive my car, but often. When i drive for a short period of time and i park and go to turn the car off, all the lights on the dash flash on and off, and most of my things restart. Some times i will stop at a stop light or sign and the car will just restart and turn off. I know this maybe something very small.
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I have a Mk4 1.8t , I left a light on and near killed the battery one night , was parked on a hill so I let it roll start.( I know this is where I went wrong so lets get past it....) It started in what sounds like some type of limp mode, dim dash lights and about 300-400rpm. cruised at about 10mph for say a 1/4 mile before the engine returned to normal rpm and lights returned to proper brightness.. now the car has a problem I cant seem to put my finger on. When it gets to about 3000rpms it bucks and begins to throw multi misfire codes making it hard to even get to 30mph.
It reminds me of how it felt when all the coils started failing but I know it cant be that because its all new , (plugs ,coils,) I have also replaced a few other easy parts such as the n75 and the diversion valve next to it, as well as the fuel pump and filter. One thing I noticed when I leave my n75 unplugged (wide open) it seems to run better making it easier to drive but if I go anywhere past 1/4 throttle it bucks and struggles. I've used the Autel to scan it for other codes but the only thing I get is random multi mis codes and mis codes for each individual cylinder.
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2004 Jetta Turbo Auto ...
"I inadvertently had my foot on the brake and lights on for awhile when the car was not started. Ignition on. then when i went to start it, it made a clicking sound inside the car (not at the engine) and the lights on the dash flickered. during that time i was initially still able to turn on radio, turn on headlights, use power locks, etc so i don't think it was the battery (tried jumping it and it did not jump start). maybe it's the starter?
Starter had given no problem previously. Or is there an interlock or module that could be keeping it from cranking?
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I have a 2006 Prius and was just on vacation for two weeks and my Prius was stored in my garage. My wife just drove the Prius about 6 miles and all the dash lights came on. The car still drives, but the cruise control won't engage. A few months back I replaced the aux 12 V battery as it somehow died, so I don't think that is the problem. When the car is off, the aux battery voltage is 12.5 volts. When it is running the voltage is 13.9 volts.
I disconnected the aux battery and then reconnected it and all the problems went away for a while. Cruise control worked again, too. I just drove it a few more miles and it happened again and just as I got home to go up my steep driveway it would only go about 3 mph. Is that the "limp mode" I have heard about? What this might be? All the dash light are lit - red triangle, check engine, VSC, Brake System, etc. I am a newbie to this site, but I did a search and didn't find much that sounded like this problem. All the lights came on previously when my aux battery died, but the car wouldn't start, so this is somewhat different.
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I have a 1999 Ranger 4x4. My 4wd does not engage when I turn the switch to 4wd lo or 4wd hi. The lights on the dash flash on and off. I disconnected the battery and now the lights are clear. But if I try again to engage it, the lights return. I feel I have a vacuum issue but would like to know more about locking hubs. If I convert them over, how do I know that my system will work? There has to be something else that changes from 4wd lo to 4wd hi. How do I check to see if this is working properly.
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Last week, the brake, traction control, cruise, and check engine lights all came on my dash. All but check engine were flashing. The car seemed to be driving fine but cruise would not engage. I drove it to a local mechanic who checked the battery and alternator and reset the computer. He said there was nothing wrong with the car. The next day the lights started flashing again so I made an appt to take it to another garage. This place said my gas cap needed to be replaced (hence the check engine light) and that my vehicle dynamic module was busted. My dilemma is that since picking the car up 4 days ago, and driving roughly 200 miles since, the lights haven't come back on. My current plan is to wait a bit and see if they do but I'm wondering if there's a chance that the VDM is ok.
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148,000 miles, and yesterday my R decided it would no longer allow me to use first gear. It sort of starts to go in gear, but feels kind of mushy, not positive, and if I let out the clutch, the gears grind, but will not engage. All other gears feel and perform normally.
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My wife and I have a R and a rabbit, she drives the R mostly and i drive the rabbit mostly..... I drive further to work, anyhow the past week she told me that the clutches feel like they are slipping and when she puts it into drive sometimes it wont engage... or when she puts it in p it says in d...... anyhow off to the dealer it goes for who knows what and how long... and the car is stock....
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I've been experiencing a loud clutch squeal or screech when I first engage the clutch after the car has been sitting for longer periods of time, overnight etc. It goes away after a few shifts and only returns after the car sits for a long period.
I brought it to the VW dealership since I'm still under warranty for a bit. After two visits the have come up with two hypotheses without any evidence. They claim to have not heard it or found anything wrong visually.
1) it could be a rear main seal leak. Or leak from somewhere on the tranny onto the cultch. When I first drive it is burned or wiped away. After putting on the lift they found no evidence of leaks. So hypothesis two:
2) Thy flywheel may be developing a bit of a patina of rust. After the clutch is engaged a few times, the rust is gone and the squeal goes away.
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I have a 2002 7.3 4x4 truck. The 4x4 will not engage, the lights on the dash don't even light up. I took it to the ford dealer and they said the fuse box and gem module. (800.00 to fix). They said the windshield leaked and shorted then out, so I needed to be replaced? I have replaced the windshield and fixed the leak, my question is the fuse box and gem a plug and play and do different years work?
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