Golf IV / Jetta IV :: No Crank Just Single Loud Relay Click From Engine Compartment
Sep 19, 2014
So I drove my car about a mile to a friend's house and when I went to start it back up 10 minutes later, I got no start and no crank. Just a single loud relay click from the engine compartment. Tow truck tried jumping it and then thwacking the starter solenoid to try and get it going. No dice. Battery seems all good.
Had some interesting things go wrong the day before which may be related to it. First, I was tracking my MPG and fuel trim on a highway trip and the trim and fuel consumption data just stopped coming in. Speedo and RPM data was still coming down the OBDII but I just assumed that my reader took a ****. Later that night I noticed that the lights on my climate control (the manual kind) went out. Tapped on it and it came back on, but only briefly. The bulb looks shot.
No engine strangeness on the drive over or earlier in the day. I drive it most every day. Has 215,000 miles on it.
I'm guessing either a short or bad starter. FWIW, I've also been experiencing the typical starter whine after starting. Was meaning to take it off and grease it. Not sure that has anything to do with it. I also tried rotating the crankshaft to make sure the engine wasn't locked up and it does turn, albeit not incredibly easily. It does have oil on the dipstick.
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About 2 weeks ago, my jetta decided it didn't want to start. Was getting symptoms of a bad ignition switch prior to this. Could get it to start one by jiggling the key. Replaced the ignition switch and now could hear the starter relay click but still no start. Yesterday, installed a reman starter and got it to start once. Could here the solenoid click when trying to start. Was reading on here or somewhere that it my be my power control relay, so took the top off to look at it and it was fine. Battery was down about 100 amps so it was replaced and still no start. Going to go see if my vag com will talk to to the ecu. Thinking about pulling the starter out and having it tested.
MK2 are so much easier.
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back story but may have nothing to do with problem. battery terminal bolts were rusted solid so i cut them off and replaced. truck stated fine the last time i started it before doing this.
I turn key and get a single click. i tried jumping 2 large poles on fender solenoid and still one click no crank. i had taken off the starter and autozone tested and it passed. i checked voltages everywhere i could think of and all were as to be expected.
could it be the starter even though it passed?
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2001 Saturn SL1, 143,000 miles; well maintained. For about a week, I had intermittent no crank/no start. Lights and radio worked. A single, audible click occurred when I turned the key. When I was able to start the car, it ran fine. I suspected a failing starter.
The next time I tried to start the car, however, it roared to life only to run like an asthmatic locomotive. It idled low, at about 500 rpm, and shook badly. When I stepped on the gas, the engine smoothed a bit and the headlights flickered. There was no CEL or battery light, except for one brief moment when I revved the engine to about 2000 rpm.
Now, when I try to start the car, it starts just fine, but runs for about 2 seconds before stalling out. I installed a new battery in September 2012 and I changed the plugs in early 2013 – both routine, preventative measures.
Any chance I flooded the engine while trying to start it, even though it's a fuel-injected engine? If so, how do I "unflood" it?
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Removed battery cables and held together to clear ECU ... Re-attached and no crank not even a click ...
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The other night I was coming home from work in my 1999.5 MKIV 2.0 Golf (Only about a 2 mile drive), once I got to a stop light my car just turned off. No loud bang, no sputter then die, just off (Like I turned the key). After trying to start the car with just a click, pushed it into a nearby parking lot with a friend steering. Once in the park lot we tried bump starting the car (it's a manual) with nothing the car sounding like it wanted to go but never did. The next night I pushed it back to my house, pulled the starter and the battery, and had both of them tested. The starter extended and spun up fine and the battery was in excellent shape.
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B5.5. Here is what happened: Was driving as usual, running low on gas. Cluster was showing zero miles left for last 10 miles. I successfully made it to the gas station. Trying to open lid - maybe on third press it popped. I thought I'm just imagining things. Drove home another 5 miles. Trying to open trunk - same as gas lid, eventually opened. I turn engine off. No dome light. None of the dome lights working. Everything else appeared still has power. Trying to open trunk again - it's dead. Trying to start the car - does not start. Trying to go home and lock with remote - not working. Lock manually and went home.
Next morning went to check fuses - all OK. Everything still not working just the way I left it. When ignition key turned - cluster comes up. When starter should crank I can hear small click inside relay panel and lighter power turned off momentarily as usual, but no crank. No messages on cluster. Dome lights, door locks by remote and starter/engine don't work. Gas lid and trunk don't work even from driver's door. If I press power lock on driver's door it will lock and immediately unlock all doors.
I did check power on fuses. Three engine related fuses don't have 12V on them. The fuses are 28, 29 and 34, or second and third up from bottom left and fourth up in second column from bottom left. Fuses itself are good.
Here I Got my first suspect: power for all 3 fuses above coming from same relay. I thought if I jump these fuses to live 12 Volts I might be able to start engine. I did jump one fuse at the time. I've heard fuel pump came up but nothing else happened. I understand that it can also be Motronic control for this relay. I pull my OBD reader, but found no codes or freeze frames. I don't have WAG reader.
But Motronic should not affect doors and dome lights (I think so but not sure), unless CAN bus shorted or something. Lights and doors can be related to Central Control and Convenience module, which supposed to be under driver seat. I had rear driver side carped wet few times when I just bought the car, but not lately, not in 6 months. I still think water damage can occur much later after exposure.
So here are mu suspects: Engine power relay, Motronic or Convenience module. It might be something else.
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I have an 02 F250 6.8 with 51,000 miles on it. I recently replaced the battery about a week ago, and only actually drove it yesterday for the first time since replacing the battery. I drove it about 25 miles, parked, and when I went to restart, it wouldn't. The starter doesn't crank, so I mean its not a cranking issue as in cranking, and not starting. It only clicks at the relay when turning the key. It acts like when you try to use a wrong chip coded key.
All of the dash lights came on, and I can hear the relay clicking, but that's it. I swapped the relays around, and no luck. If I let it sit a while, about an hour, it will fire right up. The battery cables are tight and free of corrosion. I am curious, since I just put in a new battery, could this be the culprit? Why will it start fine cold, but not hot? I have NEVER had an issue with this truck until now.
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Alright so I have a 99 7.3l. One day I went to start my truck and when I turn the key to the on position all is normal and then when I turn it all the way to crank it nothing happens. I hear a relay click ann thed that's it. Me and a buddy of mine spent quite some time on going through the entire truck. The starter was replaced, the neutral safety switch was replaced and the ignition switch was replaced yet the problem is still there. We then discovered that fuse #20 under the dash keeps blowing with every turn of the key. The manual states that this fuse is a starter motor relay coil PCM ( gasoline only). So if it's gas only why is it even in there. Let me just say that I can jump the fender mounted relay and the truck starts.
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Last year I had a bad accident and my front passenger side tire completely ripped off. State Farm fixed it and all was fine. But About 2 months ago I've been hearing this single click on the right front when I was turning right and on the left front when I was turning left. Took the car to different dealerships, one barely looked at it and tried to charge me $300 for jacking up the car and tightening 10 bolts, the other said that my axle is cracked and leaking and recommended replacing my strut mount and sway bar links. So after those were done I drove it home and on the way back I heard the same noise but somewhere underneath my seat a couple of times when I accelerate and decelerate. The dealer took my car away for a week and a half to figure this whole thing out with state farm and forced me to pay for part of the rental car.
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My 2003 GTI 24V VR6 is leaking coolant pretty quickly from the passenger side of the engine compartment. I have a new water pump in hand. If I'm replacing the water pump, would it be smart to go ahead and order a thermostat and metal crack-pipe to replace at the same time that I'm having the water pump installed? I'd hate to get the water pump installed, and find out that the leak is at the crack pipe.
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I own a 2004 VW GTI VR6, with 70k miles. i bought it used (at 40k) from carmax. Ever since I've owned it I have had a problem with a single loud knock sound i can hear from my front left wheel.
it happens in two scenarios1) when i back out of a parking space and start turning my wheel - it's only a single knock (hence i don't think it's the CV, and its been pretty constant for at least 2 years), and happens at about halfway through the steering wheel travel.2) it also happens when i accelerate hard, or decelerate. it's a single knock, or pop, or clunking sound. it almost feels like something is loose, or reseating itself as the car puts pressure on the wheel as i accelerate, and then again once again when the car decelerates.
it's pretty damn loud, and disconcerting... i can feel it in the steering wheel as well. it seems to be louder when the car has not been driven for a few days.
I've taken the car back to carmax several times over the past three years but they have not been able to find the fault. they have replaced my engine mounts twice (in 30k miles that I've had the car), which i also think is a little weird. they have also replaced all the tie rod ends, etc. - all the obvious stuff.
I am at my wit's end here - carmax pretty much think I'm crazy, and my warranty has run out, but i think I've bought a car that was in an accident - i'm expecting my front end to fall apart one day as I'm driving...
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Putting a magnaflow muffler on the 99.5 2.0 slow jetta on Wednesday and I realized I don't have a rear GLI lip. Any single turn down extension off a muffler ? Or just run a straight pipe off the muffler ? Clearance with the rear lip issues ?
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i just recently got a 1983 dodge B-150 van with a V-6 Motor when its idling you can hear a loud hum coming from the engine compartment. But when you start driving it goes away. But soon as you come to a stop it starts humming again i took it to the shop the mechanic found a few vacuum leaks.and repaired them all but could not find where the hum comes from.even after he did the repairs it still hums and it is very very irritating to hear. I still think it has a leak somewhere because when ever i turn on my A/C it blows out threw the vents just fine but soon as you start to accelerate the air stops coming out of the vents but if you let off the gas pedal fully the air comes back on which is a killer in this Oklahoma heat.
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Started out of the blue. I stopped for gas and when I got back in the car, every little light in my instrument cluster came on and has remained on for weeks. Car runs fine - everything feels normal. Ignition switch, maybe?
2000 gti VR6
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Okay so my 2003 Jetta GLI normally starts without a problem. But it seems like whenever it gets cold (below about 40) it doesn't even try to start. I turn the key and nothing happens, the engine doesn't crank. All the lights turn on like normal and they're not dim so I don't think it's the battery. It'll still start if I roll-start it, but there isn't any sort of hill for a few miles. Normally once it warms up later in the day it'll start up.
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It happens mostly after the engine warms up. When I accelerate, I hear a weird cranking noise coming from under the hood (sometimes it doesn't happen). I popped the hood to see if there was anything wrong, but i didn't find anything major (there were 3 loose screws that I tightened because I thought they were causing the vibration but the noise persisted).
I doesn't make the sound when I rev the engine, only when I am was driving. It happens roughly between 1500 and 3000 RPM. I read some of the archives to get a few ideas, but the noises people are describing are not like the one I am hearing from my car. The closest thing I found this: [URL] ....
I made a video. You'll hear the noise the loudest when I first start pressing the gas, from a complete stop: [URL] ...
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2005 GTI 1.8T 5spd 97k
Pretty much every time I back up and turn, I hear one loud, single pop from the front end. Occasionally, it will happen when I start forward from a stop (if turning) but that's it. It never happens at any other time. I can't decide if it's suspension or steering related. Where could this be coming from?
I have gone through the front end thoroughly and the only issue I find is my passenger inner CV boot has begun to crack and has lost some grease. I would expect a CV failure to click anytime I'm moving and turning. Again, I never hear this noise under any other circumstances.
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Our Daughter has added a 3rd Jetta to the family, A 2002 2.0 5 Sp with 123K. Runs like a top...looks great and figured a deal @ $2300... The man used it as a daily driver with about 3 mile run to work.... Oil was black, a little low, and the white sludge on the cap....Oil changed with synthetic (not sure what he was using) added thermostat and temp sensor to fix the cold running codes...and 2000K miles without a flaw.....
Until her oil light flashes and chimes....and she is 2 qts low....
Not a single indication of a leak found, overflow tank is clean, no smoke and the exhaust pipe appears normal, so I'm scratching my head now....
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Intermittent problem, occurred 4 times during past 4 weeks, always during wet/rainy/damp weather. Three times when car was sitting overnight, once at work in parking lot after a 12 hour work shift. Each time, the engine started 5 or 6 times then died like someone turned the key off two seconds after the engine started. Then the engine would not crank or turn over, just some clicking near the relay box under the hood. Lights, power windows, etc. all work fine. Battery voltage OK. Jump starting or battery charger makes no difference. Note: With key in "run" position, no display to odometer though all idiot lights light up like normal.
1st time, after about 15-20 minutes, car started. 2nd time, towed to my mechanic (who thought security system lock out) then a second tow to dealer. Dealer found power into power distribution center but none out. Replaced PDC. Car worked fine for 1 week. Same problem twice since repair. First post repair failure I had van re-towed to dealer. Of course, it started for them. Left overnight 2 more nights. Started for them every time. They say it is a "problem with computers" but they don't know exactly what. They also say the Alarm set Dash light is coming on with the rest of the dash lights and that is a no-no. 2nd post repair failure happened this morning. Tried locking door to reset alarm. No change. Locked doors, opened rear hatch. Lights flashed but horn did not sound. When car is working and I do that (open hatch with other doors locked), in addition to lights flashing, horn beeps! I also disconnected the positive battery terminal, waited 10 minutes, reconnected and attempted restart. No change. Car still won't start and odometer display does not work.
Van has 110,000 miles. Otherwise in fantastic shape and runs great (though only gets about 20MPG). Owned van for 2 months and have driven about 7,000 miles. 1st problem I've encountered (other than a very uncomfortable drivers seat - feels like a spring is sprung!)
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2003 Toyota Camry LE 4 cylinder
I am experiencing a loud noise which is getting worse from inside my engine compartment. I took off the heat shield assuming it was coming from the exhaust manifold but it is not. It sounds more like it is coming from the intake manifold. Now I would assume it was the intake manifold issue that has been described in many threads but it is not a vibration or clanging sound. It just sounds like air is escaping from my intake. What baffles me is that the sound is loudest in drive. Then neutral is the next loudest, then reverse there is very little unordinary sound.
I hear it a little bit when I am going like 15-20 MPH in reverse and let off the gas to decelerate. There is a noticeable noise increase just at idle too. I checked and all fluid levels are good. I changed the tranny fluid about a month ago and according to the dipstick it is right on where it should be. The sound is increasing and I am worried about what it may be. It sounds as if it has an exhaust leak but I do not see anything.
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