Weird A/C issue that started yesterday. Had ac on all morning, start my car after lunch, a/c runs for a few seconds, hear a squeak (like a belt sticking) no more a/c. Moving the temp knob makes no change just all hot air. Both fans engage, compressor and what I believe is the clutch engage, hoses get cold, and no CEL's. Really stumped here.
View 3 RepliesI've got a problem with my AC Compressor, with the AC on the compressor engages then disengages about every 5 seconds. Now I looked into it and some people said you can remove a washer to remove a gap. Do you think I should change the whole unit? Looked online and I can get one for $100. If I do work on the AC compressor to try and fix it or remove the whole unit do I need to drain any refrigerant etc etc. I have a hayness repair booklet and they said that to remove the ac compressor you need to get it drained by professionals. Although on the compressor I only see a electrical plug and no hoses.
View 14 RepliesI was coming at the climb, my car hit limp mode twice and later I noticed my CEL was on. I let it sit over night when I got where I was going and started it up today started fine but the CEL came on after it ran idle for about 45 seconds. I check the oil and it was on the low end. What it could be?
I drive a mk4 tdi with a malone tune. I am heading back to the valley tomorrow evening I'm just by kamloops right now. Also what oil should I top it with just so it isn't so low for the return trip? (Always get my oil done at the shop)
Strange thing happened yesterday and again today. I have my compressor hooked up to up fitter #3 ,turned it on yesterday to fill the tank back up to 120psi. Before it filled up i shut the truck off to fuel up..but the compressor kept running for a few seconds after the truck was off. and today doing some running around the compressor turned on out of the blue when i was driving..but the switch was off.
The shut off switch (on the compressor itself) turns it on at around 90psi and shuts off at 120, but the thing filled my tank to 180 before i noticed it was on, pulled over to shut the truck off and again it ran for 10-15 seconds after the truck was off. I'm pretty confused. maybe it has something to do with the build up of snow under the truck, we just got 16" two days ago. but still when the up fitter is off shouldn't that cut the power from the accessory hooked up to it?
98 Jetta TDI hydraulic system ... We just received this vehicle from my mother in law, who is not driving any more. It's a cream puff--79,000 miles, beautiful condition. Problem is the clutch engages lower and lower to the floor, and eventually the shifter gets stuck in gear. The brake pedal slowly sinks to the floor when at stops on hills. Our mechanic tells us these two are connected because both the clutch and brake run off the same hydraulic system.
1st time he said the fluid was filthy, and he emptied the system and put in clean fluid. Worked for a little while and then we were back where we started. Second time he replaced a couple parts on the clutch, replaced this fluid, and this time it ran like a dream for a little over a month. Then the problem just returned. Again he says the fluid is filthy, and now we are looking at replacing the master cylinder and again changing the fluid. The theory behind why this is happening is that my mother in law let the car sit for half a year before passing it on to us. She didn't do much driving the 6 months before that either. I've done research, and this doesn't appear to be a common problem by any means on these cars.
2001 2.0
251,xxx km
Noticed here lately that my brake pedal is depressing further, and can go to the floor if I press it hard enough.
If I press the pedal quick (panic stop) it engages quickly and in the correct spot (I can feel the front tires almost lock up) then it depresses more almost to the floor. the brakes still work perfect however.
What should I try first?
I use my hand brake, and have pumped the brakes and pulled the handbrake to set the rear pistons in place.
I replaced the two rear calipers about a year and a half ago and bled them obviously. Have not bled the front brakes and will do that, but was just looking for more insight, and common problems, vacuum leak, etc.
Reservoir is full as well, and no brake line leaks that I know of.
The issue I'm having is the A/C. When I got the truck the A/C was completely freezing. Recently however, the compressor was having issues not engaging and I fixed that by simply plugging the cord to the accumulator thing. . Now the compressor engages, but is not cooling really at all. It is an old truck and the compressor is a little worn from what I see maybe 2mm space when not engaged. I checked the levels of freon/coolant with a gauge and the amount is perfectly fine. Plus there seems to be no leaks.
View 1 RepliesOk I am at my wits end with this. I have a 2000 Mustang GT 5-speed with 80k miles. When the A/C is on it will occasionally misfire at steady, low (between 1-2k) RPMs and will have a fluctuating idle as well. Occasionally the fluctuating idle is bad enough that it stalls out. It only does this when the compressor is engaged. It sounds like a vacuum leak, but I have checked and cannot find any sort of vacuum leak. Also, it throws a P0300 (Random/Multiple misfire) code. When the A/C is off it runs like a charm. Here is everything that I have done...
Replaced COPs
Replaced spark plugs
Cleaned MAF sensor
Cleaned IAC valve
Replaced fuel filter
Replaced fuel pump (unrelated to this, the old one just died)
Ran seafoam through the motor
New battery (again, unrelated)
and maybe some other stuff I am forgetting
Also, I have taken some readings:
Fuel pressure @ idle ~32psi
Vacuum @ idle ~17in Hg
Had alternator tested - OK
Pressure in A/C system checked out OK (though I did use one of those AZ cans with a gauge on it, not sure how reliable that is)
Also, the A/C works great. It's like an arctic wind in there.
I am at a total loss for what to do. I would suspect it's something with the motor that is simply exacerbated by the added load of the A/C but I suppose it could be the A/C compressor? Is it possible that it needs lube? Doesn't the freon lube the compressor? (The pressure indicates it's fully charged and the A/C blows cold AF) ...
Looking to get the A/C working on my '78 F150 with integral (factory) A/C system. It is complete, but it seems to be blowing warm air as opposed to cold.
When I turn on the A/C, the compressor engages and the blower switches to the dashboard vents. I waited for a minute or two, but no cool air.
The sight glass has a silver line running through it. I assumed this was full? It would be black if it was low/empty.
A high pitched squeal appears to come from the front of the a/c compressor whenever the clutch engages. When the clutch disengages the compressor stops spinning, and the squeal stops. I can watch and listen to this as the system cycles with the a/c switched on. If I turn off the a/c, no squeal. I'm guessing the bearings in the compressor are going out. However, the system still cools normally, so apparently no gas has leaked out.
Does this imply the compressor must be replaced, or could injection of some oil into the system possibly fix it...?
This car only has 73,000 miles on it. I've owned 2 other TB's and a couple classic Mustangs with much higher miles and never seen an a/c compressor bearings fail.
When cold starting the transmission shifts into reverse perfectly, then after backing up the car and shifting into drive it hesitates for 4 or 5 seconds before it engages the forward gear.
2008 Accent 4 door automatic 77,000 KM
AC compressor won't kick on at all. I know the system doesn't have much refrigerant (just replaced the line that runs from the expansion valve to the bottom of the drier, the drier itself, and the condenser)..
Evacuated the entire system with a pump. Tried putting refrigerant in and the pressure on the gauge goes up immediately into the yellow/red...jumped the connector on the high pressure switch and the fans came on, shouldn't the compressor kick on too?
Checked the 14 pin connector on the fcm for 12V...PIN number 8 is barely seeing any power which leads to no power getting to the compressor...
The dealer diagnosed my a/c as needing a new compressor and clutch. I had an a/c specialty shop install a remanufactured compressor and clutch. however, they could not get the compressor to kick on. I checked all fuses (all are good).
I checked the compressor continuity (good, 0 ohms). I checked the plug where the compressor clutch plugs in (it reads 12 volts). the funny thing is, it reads 12 volts anytime the engine is running (even if the climatroinc is turned off). I am definitely not an a/c expert and really don't know how this stuff works.
In my 2001 2.0, my AC has been blowing hot air for a while now. It was intermittent at first but now is constant.
The compressor runs without going off when the AC is switched on. I can tell because I see the compressor clutch engaged and spinning.
I tested with AC manifold gauges and these are the readings I got.
Engine off : Low is 0, High is 135
Engine on, AC on full blast after running 10 min at 1500 RPM:
Low is 4, High is 135
Looks pretty bad.
I am trying to figure out why my AC is not working. Both fans are coming on and the AC button is light up but it is not blowing cold. The charge was checked and it has a good charge. The compressor appears to not be engaging. I checked for power at the electrical connector for the AC compressor and my voltmeter is showing voltage between 3.1-8.3 volts. It jumps around between that voltage every few seconds. The fuses have all been checked and are in not broken. What else should I be checking?
View 2 Replies2000 jetta 2.0
so far i have replaced 2 fans ; thermal switch in radiator ; ran all the tests i can find ; all fuses and relays seem fine ; jumped compressor and it engages .
key on & car NOT running there is no power to the compressor.
I wanted to check the low pressure switch but every test is for a 2 wire set-up.... mine has 3 wires. which wires do i jump?
I have a 2004 Jetta wagon 2.0. About 2 years ago my compressor was replaced with a used one and the a/c was working perfectly fine. Last year the air from the a/c began to get warmer until it completely stopped blowing any cold air. A couple of weeks ago we checked the freon lines and they had plenty of pressure in them. We also checked the fuses in the car and on top of the battery along with the fan control module. The compressor spins from the serpentine belt but the clutch does not engage and there is no power in the wires going to the compressor. There is power at the high pressure switch but the condenser fan does not come on unless the switch is jumped. Could the culprit be the ambient temperature sensor?
View 9 RepliesOk My Ac doesn't work on my 05 Jetta 2.0 blows hot air. These are the steps taken so far to no avail
_Function test A/C System_ A/C is not cold_ Recover A/C, System was low
_Pressure test system with nitrogen for leaks_No Leaks Found
_Charge system and add dye
_Test operation
_Found compressor not cutting in_ Inspect for ground at compressor_OK
_Test for power at compressor_NO POWER GETTING TO COMPRESSOR
_Inspect fuses_OK
What's going on with this and what the next steps might be?
I have an 02' 2.0 Jetta Wagon, and the A/C is having some issues. Since I know close to nothing about A/C systems, I took it in to a few places to have it looked at. I've had the whole system Evac'd and recharged, and have had the low pressure fitting replaced (apparently there was a slight leak there), and the system is still not working.
The A/C worked fine when I first purchased the car a few months ago. Shortly after my 800 mile trek from Oregon, back to home, the A/C started to only work intermittently. The compressor would engage, then disengage, repeat...It seemed like a bad idea to keep trying to use it in its sad state so I stopped using it altogether. As I said, I had the system emptied and recharged, but it still only works intermittently. It sort of follows a pattern where upon start up it works longer, and switches on and off at shorter intervals, until it doesn't engage at all.
There are no strange noises from the compressor, and when it was hooked up to the machine, it proved to be performing its function well.
Compressor does not engage, and my fans do not come on when I turn on the A/C. They do come on low speed when I jumper pins 1 and 2 on the temp switch plug, but they do not come on high speed when I jumper pins 2 and 3.
I have replaced the FCM with a new one, as well as a guaranteed working used one; neither one changed anything. I assumed right away that it was the fcm because my original one has a hole eaten through it from battery acid.
Compressor clutch ohms out within spec, and it will engage if jumpered.
I have a 2003 2.8 GLI and my compressor clutch will not engaged i provided the clutch with a direct power and ground from the battery and it engaged. i also went to the junk yard and got a couple of Fan Control Module ($4 each) and it still does not engaged.
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