I recently installed a k04 turbo, when I try and accelerate hard my wastegate just seems to open up very quickly without building much boost. I don't have a boost gauge or anything like that installed. Do I start by adjusting the wastegate actuator, or install MBC. Pretty new to this still.
View 12 RepliesJust today I noticed my car boosting to around 1.2bar instead of the usual 1.4bar. The car is boosting to around 1.2 then dropping off to around a bar.
The only thing that I did was install a forge splitter. I presumed that the splitter valve was the issue and promptly put my 007p back on but still had the same issue.
During the process of adjusting the splitter valve I got limp mode several times. I much prefer the 007p and will be keeping that and selling the splitter. What may have happened?
I have an 03 GTI 1.8t with the stock K03s turbo and i used to boost to 25 pounds. Had to put a new motor in and now i when i boost above 20 pounds i get turbo flutter and loose boost. I can boost anywhere up to 20 pounds and the turbo doesn't flutter at all.
I had a spring on my waste gate which i have taken off and it changed nothing. I tried a different diverter valve and it didn't change anything. I unplugged the MAF to see if the N75 or the there was a boost leak and extra air wasn't being monitored but still changed nothing. It has nothing to do with my RPM range just when i boost over 20 pounds. I am planning on doing a leak down test to make sure there isnt a boost leak....
I have a 2012 R with 85,000 miles, APR chip running 93 octane with a HPFP and VWR cold air intake. I was driving my car today (slow driving on highest) and all of a sudden I felt no turbo boost, and heard a weird sound whenever I hit the gas. Car moved but would not get above 3500 rpms and couldn't really get past 60 mph. Again, absolutely no boost (I have a boost gauge as well to verify).
About to drop off the car at a shop but had a couple questions:
1. If the turbo is blown, can I still drive the car to the shop (not too far) without damaging the engine itself?
2. if the turbos needs to be replaced, what are my options besides getting the stock turbo replaced, without getting some crazy setup? This is my daily driver and I don't want to spend money beyond what I need to get it fixed, but it there is a stronger more reliable turbo for about the same as a OEM, I would want to consider... Also price for OEM replacement??
3. Without the mechanic looking at it, I'm just assuming it's the turbo but what else could be the issue? All the lines looks intact and intake is fitted correctly. I did have issues with my cam follower getting damaged at 45,000 miles (there was a hole in it) and I have been replacing it every 20,000 miles since. Didn't have any issues for 40,000 additional miles, but could damage to that cause turbo failure?
Car started to do some weird stuff today. Misfiring under high load, as I get into boost.
Idle is around 1000-1100 RPMs. Cold start is fine, idle is normal in terms of going higher a bit, but then it sits at 1kish. This started last night after the car sat for a couple hours. Totally normal running and driving prior to this.
I've seen all the MKV threads about it that suggest everything from battery, to alternator, to grounds, to vacuum leaks, to intake leaks, to MAF.
I have a leak between the turbo and the exhaust manifold. The golden clamp (c-clamp? v-clamp?) broke, and now there is a gap between the two. The dealership doesnt cover it under powertrain warranty (my car has passed regular warranty) but worst of all they do not sell the clamp on its own.
I posted a link to a picture below, it isn't my turbo.
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Recenly, i feel like i haven't been hitting boost, so i went to get an oil change last week. I did the oil change, and everything seemed ok, I thought it might have been a slight boost leak. This morning i check my drive way to see a little oil on it. So i check the dip stick and the oil level is already at a minimum. Do you think i have a blown turbo due to the oil drop and lack of boost. It hasn't been a 100 mi since the oil change either.
View 7 Replies2012 TDI ... OK so out of nowhere, my car is making loud turbo whoosh noise, while I love the way it sounds, it's not normal or intentional, so I don't like it lol. I have an AWE intake, and a gutted turbo resonance damper. Is been fine and same sound ever since those mods but now out of nowhere it is really loud with the whooshing of the turbo.
Small video of it... [URL] ....
Pictures of turbo area .....
Anything look wrong? I circled that one area but wouldn't know if that's normal or not....
Just installed my Touareg Dash Cover and it was easy, but I need to hit the thing 4 or 5 times before it opens, is the way it is for everyone? I do have the new screws (small)!
View 9 RepliesSo my 04 GLS Jetta has had this issue for a while and I would like to find out why. If I pull the button for the trunk in the drivers door or press the button my key to open the trunk, nothing happens. The lights will flash when I press the button on the key but no sound comes from the trunk. Same goes for the trunk release button in the door. No sound. The only way I can open the trunk is to use the actual key and while I turn the key, I have to press down on the trunk. Turning the key alone will not open the trunk. It only opens when I press down on the trunk and turn the key.
Is this normal if the trunk release motor on the trunk goes out? I also have had the trunk open and did the button in the door and the key with nothing happening. How to troubleshoot this?
So, I'm pulling my hair out now. I loaned my car to a friend for a few months while I was out of the country and now that I've gotten it back, the rear hatch will only open with the key. I've searched online for days and tried several things but, nothing is working. Here's what's going on and what I've tried.
The back opens perfectly with the key (i.e. there's nothing stuck in the latch)
When I use the fob, the lights flash but the actuator doesn't move (there's no noise other than the lights flashing)
When I pull the switch in the drivers door nothing happens (can't remember if the lights are supposed to flash or not but they DON'T now)
When I lift on the handle in the trunk nothing happens
I've pulled the interior back hatch cover off and tried to activate the actuator using a 9V battery and it did nothing so, I thought it was a dead actuator. I just dropped $60 on a new one, plugged it in, shut the hatch and nothing happened....
I don't have access to VAGCOM or anything like that so, hopefully there are things that I can test w/o that?
I found trunk in 2003 GTi won't lock, and new actuator(motor) didn't, either. No signal on the connector when I press key fob switch, through rear light blink. I guess there would be another connector to this wire(green and blue) somewhere inside the passenger side C pillar.
View 1 Replies2001 golf interior lights don't come on if any door opens, car doesn't recognize any of the doors to be open on the dash. I read it could be bad door lock modules, but does that happen to all 4 or could it be an electrical issue?
View 4 RepliesMy friend attended a powerstroke diesel class last week. During the class the person doing it mentioned that if you are going to do a EGR delete on a 6.0 you need to install a blow off valve. He said that the 6.0 will open the EGR valve if you over boost and since you deleted the EGR it will lift the heads. He said that the unision ring wears out which will cause the truck to over boost causing the over boost situation.
EGR deleted but possible problems later? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
I have a touchscreen that the dealership provided me but with the catch that I've got to install it myself, pretty sure it has something to do with the state the previous stereo was taken out, all I'm left with are a cluster of wires none of which I know are for what.
View 2 RepliesI finished installing an auto out of a 1999 beetle into my 2000 golf. I used the beetle TCM now it wont shift out of 3rd. If I manually start in first it will shift up to 3rd but nothing past 3rd. I had it scanned with a generic scanner and these are the codes. P1780, P1783, P0725. I researched the heck out of this and I'm not sure what to do. Do I need to take it and have a vag com hooked up to make sure the ecm and the new tcm are talking? It seems others have had these issues and I thought it might be solenoids but that's not what's coming up.
View 2 RepliesOkay just installed a newer 24v into my existing 24v VR6 GTI both with 135k. I have heard the motor run before it was pulled and sold to which sounded fine. Upon receiving the motor I put new timing chains, guides, headgasket and new gaskets all around. The timing was right on the mark and I tightened everything up to torque spec and I'm getting this noise which sounds like it's from the timing cover area. A code just popped on which I'm going to scan as soon as I get my hands on one. The car was running great for about 20 minute and I shut it off then turned it back on about 5 minutes later and experiencing these scary noises. I tried pulling each individual coil with no results to get the noise away. What could this be?
[URL] .....
99 Jetta, installed a new AC compressor a month ago, has been working great, not clutch will engage for a few moments, then turn off for a minute, then engage again. Seems, like there is Freon in there by the gauge on the low side.
View 4 RepliesLast Saturday, my mechanic friend and I spent the day installing WRD coils on my 2003 Wolfsburg edition Jetta. Took us longer than we thought but we got it all done and we set them at 3/4 max for lowness. I don't want to go any lower and I will probably raise a little bit soon.
Anyways, when I started driving I noticed a rear clunking sound, it's especially noticeable at slower speeds. Every single tiny little bump and sounds like someone is dropping boxes in my trunk. I checked my trunk and took everything out and that still didn't work. When my car is stationary and I get out and push on the rear to test the shocks I hear the sound.
After installing a new crank position sensor on my 05 GTI 1.8T would I have to recalibrate my ECM, my car will not start.
View 2 RepliesSo the other day I replaced my N75 valve and upgraded my DV to the Forge 007. For some reason the turbo doesn't spool like it did before, it's lost it's pep.
I've tried the Yellow and Green springs, also I tried them with the shim too. No luck. The car got turbo back exhaust, intake, and stage one program.