Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Motor Ticking Around 2500 - 3500 Rpm
Mar 9, 2016
My 1.8t motor is still ticking around 2500-3500rpm. I have changed the oil with 5w-40 mobil1 no even 75 miles on oil change, Brand new oil pump with tensioner and chain. oil pick up tube cleaned and good. new plugs about 75 miles on them as well. Always ran 93 octane (highest I can get at my gas station) Only thing left that I can think of is my cam tensioner is bad.
When I accelerate up to speed it starts ticking but as soon as I let off the throttle it will stop get back on the gas it starts again.
Stockish 2000 gti 1.8t 5 speed. short ram intake.
Is there a way to tell if the cam tensioner is bad? .
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On my drive home today around 2500-3000 rpm I am getting real bad lifter ticking noise. When I let of the gas it stops but as soon as I get back on it it will start ticking again. I just bought oil for an oil change Mobile 1
0W-40 I'm pretty sure plus a mobile 1 filter. Will this stop the ticking noise or do I need to adjust my lifters?
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Recently had an aftermarket turbo back exhaust system installed. After driving for a short while, I noticed that between 2500 and 3500 RPMs the noise was very loud. Once I hit the highway (in which the engine almost exclusively hangs around those numbers), it was almost unbearable to sit in the car while having that constant droning sound. I have had and been in cars with aftermarket exhaust systems before and never heard anything quite like this. It is pretty tame below 2500 and once you hit 4000, it sounds quite nice and that horrible drone goes away. I really trust the shop that did the work, so I doubt it was faulty install. Could it be a faulty design or maybe just the one that I received?
This exhaust is from a reputable maker and they designed this system specifically for the Golf R. I did have some other mods done at the same time (Coilovers, Engine Mount Insert, Intake and a Tune). I know the insert may cause a little bit of vibration and hence a little bit of extra noise, but nothing like this. While driving on the highway at 3000 RPMs, I cannot even clearly see the cars behind me through the rear windshield as there is so much vibration from all the noise.
Forgot to mention, this TBE is resonated with a CAT, so even more reason for concern. Would expect it to be quiet by comparison to a CAT-less non-resonated system
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Recently my GTI has been ticking, but it is only between 1 and 2 thousand rpm. After 2k it runs fine and doesn't make the sound. Local tuner suggested an oil pressure problem (not using the proper oil) but I am using the proper oil. It has been like this for over a month now and nothing has come of it. It is coming from the belt side of the motor and sounds like plastic ticking. Could it be a belt?
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So over the last couple of days my GTi has been hesitating as I accelerated past 2500-3500 rpms so I took it in to the dealer this morning to have them look at and sure enough, it had blown an Ignition Coil.
I know this was a common issue with the 1.8l Turbo engines but I thought this had been corrected in the new models.
I have a '10 GTi with 14000 km's on it and some mods (see signature). And no, they didn't comment or ask about the APR chip or intake.
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So it seams to have a sputter around 2500 to about 3500. When it should be boosting I am guessing. Engine Lite flashes then goes out for catalytic efficiency. Cleared codes but always comes back thoughts are cat or o2 problems. Minor mods downpipe, exhaust, and bypass valve. And Fuel mileage gone down quite a bit.
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I lamented in the past a lot of vibrations when the engine was at 3500RPM (in any gear). I read on the forums and many people blamed the aftermarket "EMPI" axles that I mounted too. In fact, my OEM outer CV joints where seized inside the hub/spindle and one of the inner CV joints was clicking; the boots were all worn. This was the reason I went with aftermarket axles. Anyway, I rebuilt the OEM axles by keeping the shaft only, and getting good quality inner and outer CV joints. I finished today to swap back the OEM axles and, finally, no more vibrations!
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It feels like I have zero back pressure until I hit about 3500rpm. The car kind of struggles and chugs a bit until it hits the power band and then it takes off like everything is normal...
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Mechanics say they don’t know what wrong… I had some transmission work done on my truck – mostly an leak and replacing the harness – and ever since then after it rains or if we have a heavy dew my truck does the following:
Driving from O to 49 miles an hour truck is fine, as soon as I hit 50 the truck starts surging and you can see the tachometer jumping from 2000 RPM to 2500 RPMs. I drive around 17 miles to work where my truck will sit for seven hours. On the way home the truck is fine. I find this to be more of a problem when the truck has sat for a day or two over the weekend without driving it. Sometimes the “check engine” light will come on, sometimes not.
I have taken it to two different places and neither one says they can find anything wrong with the truck. I have driven this truck for over 11 years and know it very well. There is something wrong, but what? 1993 Chevy Silverado 3500 Diesel....
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So,I have a mk4 GTI vr6 . I've got an idle that moves about 25 rmps up and down. As well as the throttle hesitation between 2.000 and 3500 rpms only at mid throttle. Has a kinda new maf. That I cleaned. clean THrottle body kinda new coil pack and wires , new plugs. Tried a lot it all worked but it's still there.
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I own a 2001 Jetta GLX 12v VR6, lately the car has not been running well. It chokes the power past 3500 rpm's and will continue running poorly and sound sort of like a Subaru boxer engine. Sometimes it corrects itself and runs okay but goes back and forth.
I ran the codes on VAG COM:
6 faults found:
17551 - Load calculation cross check
P1143 - 35 - 10 upper limit exceeded - intermittent
16712 - Knock Sensor 1 (g61)
P0328 - 35 - 10 Signal too high - intermittent
[Code] .....
I ran VAG COM a couple of days before these codes came up and I had a different code dealing with air/fuel mixture, something about fuel running to rich. I'm stumped.
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The rattle, 1.8t GLI
-2500-3000 RPM
-Car can be in gear or out of gear, rev rattle is the same.
-Sometimes, I can hear the rattle when the car is off and I slam the door slightly harder than usual.
-My hood release cable may have been the culprit, but I could only zip-tie part of it and the rattle hasn't changed.
One really important clue is that when I have reached around the area between my engine and airbox, the rattle has gone away. So I had a bad coolant flange, so when reaching my phone down there to take pictures, I must have bumped or pressed something because the noise was gone for about a mile.
I recently had my airbox out and a visual inspection didn't show any promise and tapping on random parts didn't recreate the sound.
There is am RPM rattle near my airbox....
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I am hearing a vibrating sound only between 2000 - 2500 rpm while accelerating from inside/under engine bay. No impact on ride quality and no engine harshness is felt. Only it sounds like some metal sheet is vibrating for a while. After crossing 2500 rpm it simply disappears.
Checked inside the engine compartment by revving the engine while stationery and I don't get that sound. What could it be? Some shield of the exhaust? cat?
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I've noticed lately, that when I do some spirited driving, my rcf is making this weird raspy type ticking noise from around 2500 rpm to 4000 rpm. It definitely doesn't sound normal...
When I take my car in for body repair next week, I plan on having the dealership change the breaks according to the TSB issued and also checking out this noise.
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2000 V10 with no CEL codes.
Upon start up the motor would rev to 2500 rpm. So I thought IAC.
Unplugged the IAC to rule it in and the motor still reved to 2500 at start up....so naturally I spent an hour looking for a vacuum leak. Did not find one.
By shear dumb luck I decided to double check the IAC. Using a set of visegrips I clamped the intake hose to IAC almost closed. And motor started up and idled at 1000 rpm. I could vary rpm by varying the amount of IAC hose left Un clamped.
So moral of the story is IAC can fail in the open position too. Allowing too much air past valve and high rpm.
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I've a 02 Jetta GLS - 2.0 engine..
About a week back, I have started to hear a ticking noise from the hood. It is exactly same as someone else posted video on youtube below:
[URL] ....
What could be potential problem areas?
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What in the world is this clicking/ticking noise? It is the loudest thing in the engine bay, and as you can hear, it does NOT sound normal. It appears to be emanating around/under the fuel rail.
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1.8t AWP, driving in any gear, and when i let go of the gas, you hear a ticking sound, as if you're riding a mountain bike and you stop pedaling. That kinda ticking. Is this normal? Have never heard it before.
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Today I went to start my jetta, and there was a soft slapping/ticking coming from the engine. Drove a couple miles, stopped, and when I tried to start the car again it wouldn't go. Engine light was on but it was on before. Scanned and got codes for glow plugs #2-3.
When I turn the key the starter turns but the engine will not fire or tun over. There's diesel in the fuel lines and the timing belt is still turning, thats all i could really check with out taking anything apart. What this might be?
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MKIV Jetta wagon 2004. Bought used last year. Four previous owners with 125K on it.
Problem: After oil change where I previously had 5W-30 with valvoline dino, I changed with a different brand 5W-30 (Peak brand). Ticking noise started immediately from engine area usually only after it got up to temperature. Also using different oil filter. Initially not sure if it was injector or lifter tick. It ended up being lifter tick, and the give away was when going down a small hill and the engine downshifting, the increase RPM caused the tick to increase at the same rate. So here is the path I went down.
1. Swapped out oil filter - no change. I thought this might work because I was using a fram tough guard.
2. Added some rislone with ZDDP additive. Quieted down the valvetrain quite a bit, but did not solve the problem
3. Added rislone engine treatment. Got better, but still not totally solved.
4. Tried to "drive it out" and get some mileage on the rislone . Didn't work. Definitely better though
Finally, after all that I figured let's give my baby some of the thick sauce. So I pulled out a quart from the diptube with my suction device and put in a quart of 10W-40. Almost immediately PROBLEM GONE. So either that crappy peak oil doesn't have the viscosity that it advertises, or the valve train is just getting old and needs a little bit thicker oil in the summer. Probably both. I will also keep using a small dose of the ZDDP additive to extend the life of the valvetrain, as it sounds really good with that stuff in the system.
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While switching freeways yesterday and shifting down into 3rd before hitting the exit ramp I heard I a slight clunk, and then this continual noise began. I initially wasn't quite sure if it was my car or the sound of the of the large semi engine braking in front of me so I continued on to the freeway and was able to shift back up to 5th and get to speed.
However, I held back to around 60Mph because the noise started to worry me as I continued to hear it after passing the 18 wheeler semi. I got off at the next exit and noticed that the noise ONLY occurs when the car is decelerating. It happens in every gear as well as neutral; having the clutch in or out doesn't make a difference either.
*When accelerating in any gear, even the slightest bit, the noise disappears.
I've scavenged the forums to find a similar issue but to no avail.
I've uploaded a video that shows the issue occurring. The video is taken from the driver's side wheel, but the sound resonates throughout the front of the car, can't really pinpoint where though.
2002 Jetta 1.8t possible transmission noise
[URL] ....
2002 Jetta 1.8t ... 210k Miles
I've recently replaced the Control arms, outer tie rod ends, ball joints, springs, struts, all for rotors/pads, rear calipers, handbrake cables, timing belt (with pulley kit) water pump, etc. full syn Oil changes every 3k-3.5k miles, Premium petrol only.
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