Mk4 problem: my interior fan in my Jetta doesn't work on any of the levels, the ac button doesn't work either, and nothing is lit up except the recirculating button.. Resistor?
View 3 RepliesMy car has been in and out of my mechanics with no resolution to my problem.
When I press my AC button, a number of warning dashboard lights on my dashboard turn on, check engine, oil pressure, abs, air bag (pretty sure all of them). Each time this happens, I have my mechanic clear the warning lights in my dash. And no, the AC does not turn on.
I don't have any warning lights on my dash, and driving the car without pressing the AC button for weeks doesn't trigger any warnings. Once the AC is pressed, I get almost all of them, within a minute. The codes that his computer read are failure to communicate signals.
Let the car run for roughly 15-20 min still not at full operating temp 90 celuis, and when it is at 90 only blows warm air not hot hot air advice> water pump and timing belt have been done in nov as well as coolant flush.
View 5 RepliesMy car recently started making strange noises sometimes. Sometimes I hear a whirling sounds coming from the bottom half of the block which I'd hope it isn't the water pump. Also when i start my car and it cranks over, I hear what sounds like a blow off sounds but its not from my diverter valve.
View 5 RepliesI have an 01 Jetta 1.8t wolfsburg eddition and the AC won't blow cold air. The AC Clutch does engage when I press the AC button on the control unit The refrigerant pressure is good The fan blows, but its hot air. the condenser is working because the pipe is cold when the ac is running I am curious if any of you know what other possible problems could be causing this. It is currently 100 degrees with 100% humidity
View 11 RepliesOf the 4 vents that blow into the passenger's face in my jetta, only 1 really works. All other vents seem to work well (i.e., windshield defrost, footwell etc) but the ones that blow the heat/AC in your face seem to be affected. the one working vent is the driver's side of the 2 central vents (the ones above the stereo) neither of the 2 for the passenger work, and the one by the Driver's door works a bit.
I've tried opening them with the dial on the dash and closing, but that seems to have little effect. Are there dampers or something that can be adjusted on the inside of the vents?
I've spent some time searching on this one and I mostly found how to replace the heater-core and the blower itself. The blower works as does A/C, that one vent is ice-cold, but the other 3 don't really do anything.
I have a 2003 Jetta GLI. When i turn my a/c on some of the vents blow harder and colder than the others. Why that would be?
View 10 RepliesOk here is the issue, my girlfriend owns a MK4 '99 Jetta. Through the search I was able to figure out why she is having so many issues with her door locks and how they can be fixed on the cheap..thats awesome. But here is the problem. She was driving down the road the other day, A/C working...then suddenly it stopped blowing cold. Fan is still working, just blows hot air. She said it started blowing warm suddenly and hasnt been getting warmer through out the past days or anything.
With the hood popped and the a/c on, you can see that the compressor isnt engaging. The car makes a noise like its engaging the compressor, but nothing is happening that I can see visually. Seems as if the compressor is not getting the signal to engage. It sounds like its trying to make the compressor kick on about every 5 seconds or so. Basically that initial clicking sound that your hear RIGHT before the compressor comes on when its working normally.
We have checked the fuses and no luck with those, all look good. Seems like its an electrical issue to me. What this may be? Bad pressure switch? Low pressure in the system? I know the car has had the compressor replaced before...and the clutch seems to spin freely when the car is off.
Air conditioner was acting weird. (It doesn't blow cold air when the car stops at the lights or in the parking lots. But it works great while driving). Then I went to dealer. And they scan my computer. And they said we need to change Aux Fan control unit and also one of the fan .I ordered OEM Aux Fan Control Unit . And I installed it. I connected Vagcom and cleared the Fault code but It still acts same. I checked the fans. They both works fine to me. They run 10 seconds and stops. So I didn't get this part. How the heck this AC works fine while I am driving but it doesn't work when I stop ?
View 7 RepliesLet's start from the beginning. 3 months ago, I replaced my oil pan, and since then I've noticed that white smoke would randomly blow out of my exhaust- A couple times when I really got on her, and a few times when sitting idling for 10-15 minutes.
Two days ago, I was driving and about to hop on the highway to make my 40 minute commute home, realized that my temp had gone up about an eighth over 190 (usually stone cold centered)... Watched it for another 2 minutes and the temp was 3/4 of the way to the red, so I pulled over and popped the hood.
The coolant reservoir was COMPLETELY empty, which didn't really make any sense- I had been running my AC all day because it was hot out, but I don't think I was idling with the AC on for too long.
I let her cool off, had a friend bring me some coolant (not much at all) and a TON of water. Filled her up and went home; temp was trying to climb but I wouldn't accelerate too much so she wouldn't go much higher than that eighth over the 190 mark.
Next morning, dropped her off at a mechanic's before work, asked for an oil change, inspection, and to check out this temp issue. These guys told me that they ran a compression test and everything was okay, no leaks or cracks in any hoses so it is a faulty turbo. They also stated that in idle, there seems to be intermittent white smoke out of the exhaust- coolant burning, obviously).
Drove it from them to a spot nearby to let her cool off because I wanted to see if there was more white smoke.. Driving TO the location, I blew A LOT of white smoke on acceleration, I had the heat blasting the entire time so the temp didn't really rise too much.
I'm hoping it's not the turbo, reading up on these issues in here it could be a number of things, but the ONLY reason why I don't want to spend a fortune on replacing the turbo right now is because one or two mechanics i spoke to today said it's not the turbo, but 3 others said it was...
I have no loss of power, no hesitation, and no abnormal sounds from the turbo. Actually, she sounds amazing. I don't however thing it's a head gasket because the dipstick and oil cap aren't milky.
My 2005 Jetta gli 220k miles just spurred going down the road now every time I accelerate and get into high Rpms the Ac vents start to blow harder and feels like loss of power. It's fines at idle and first gear but 2nd and up its does it I'm stumped....
View 2 RepliesThe A/C does not blow cold. The Compressor clutch does kick on and stay on The passenger side fan kicks on only (I think the driver side is toast but i need to test it to confirm) The system has 45psi on the low side
I did not check the high side as I don't have a gauge for it but will get one if I need to test that. So my thoughts are that my expansion valve is toast which is what expands the hot liquid and turns it to cool liquid so the A/C gets cold. I think this because it seems all of the other components work.
I recently put a cold air intake on my car and I could hear the dump when I let off of the gas. But I also put in a boost gauge but I think I had a leak in the hose going to the gauge. After I drove it for awhile the blow off valve started making a flutter noise when dumping. I fixed the leak in the hose but the flutter is still there. How do I fix the flutter? A new blow off valve? Mk4 Jetta 1.8.....
View 6 RepliesI have myself a hatch stuck shut on my wagon. Wont open with the button and the key doesn't turn. The key fob was actually broken when I bought the car leading me to believe it happened while he tried to unlock the stuck hatch.
View 3 RepliesDropped my car off at Costco for a few hours (New Tires) and when I picked it up, the "unlock" key on my key fob failed to work. The Lock and trunk unlock keys work but the typical unlock (for the doors) doesn't work at all.
View 2 RepliesSo I was driving just a second ago, stopped to get something and where I was parked I had to leave my hazards running. I had them on for a minute at most and when I got back in the hazard button was smoking. I turned it off and blew in the gap as much as possible.
The smoking stopped. Now neither my hazards or blinkers work. I haven't had a chance to check fuses yet. Wanted to see what people thought or if they'd had similar experience ASAP. Will update with finding when I can.
Mk IV Jetta. Central locking works fine. All other CCM functions are fine. Replaced CCM recently serial numbers match. When I hit the switch on the door nothing at all happens. When I use the key button the lights flash twice but no other activity. No broken wires between the body and the trunk lid. Actuator works when tested with a 9v battery.
View 20 RepliesMy trunk doesn't seem to open electrically any more - that is, the button on the driver's side nor the button on the key fob will open the trunk. All I hear when I attempt either of these methods is a click near the fuse box. I do not hear the actuator at all. It worked intermittently for a few months, but now it seems to be completely dead. My google searches led me down two paths - either the actuator itself is broken or the wiring going from the latch to the actuator is messed up.
I removed the actuator from the trunk and tested it using a different power supply. It seems to work fine when I apply 12v through the leads. I also connected my multimeter to the connector that plugs into the actuator (the connector is hooked up to the wires coming from the front of the car). When I push the trunk button on my key, it spikes to 11v, then drops back to 0. To me, this indicates that there is no flaw in the wiring.
I even re-soldered the wires where it tends to kink on the drivers side in the trunk (It looks like they have been previously DIYed so I thought something may have come loose there), but that doesn't seem to have worked. As far as I can tell, the wires seem to be working fine by testing through the multimeter, and the actuator seems to be fine by testing from an alternate supply.
2002 jetta AC only works if I turn on and then start car
1- get in car, push in AC button
2- start car
3- feel cold air
4- will blow cold forever (if car is running)
If I am driving and turn on, it does not work. Seems that it trys to come on, kicks compressor for maybe a second then waits 5 seconds and trys to kick again. The pressures are high but in green (OK), when I first saw this I added a little Freon , it did not change characteristic.
When it does not work the rad-fan comes on and blows, When it works the rad fan blows as it should.
This is a 4-cyl 2.0 GL and does not have climate control...
Sometimes when I hit the start button it takes a couple of minutes for the AC to start blowing air. I even tried stopping and shutting off and restarting but it still took a few minutes to start blowing. It doesn't do this all the time just every now and then.
View 4 RepliesI've been having this problem for a few weeks now and its getting real bad. When I'm driving along at normal speeds my car will cut off on its own. Also when I'm slowing down the car will jump up 5-600 rpms and at utter and shake a lot and every other time it'll cut off. I've replaced the maf and nothings changed. I'm really hoping it doesn't have to do with the transmission. The car has 241k on it .
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