Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Misfire On Cylinders - Cracked Harness / Vacuum Leak?
Mar 19, 2015
I just bought a 05 1.8T Jetta 116,000miles. and need diagnosing it. It misses all the time. Has new plugs I tried two other sets of coils (from my 2.0 a4 and my dads passat) and it made no difference. The SAI was taken out but nothing is blocked off. Also the coil pack wiring harness has cracks on the big brown wire where it goes down along the block. I'm getting these codes on my vag-com.
16687 cylinder 3 misfire
16686 cylinder 2 misfire
16688 cylinder 4 misfire
17766 cylinder 2 open ignition circuit
17763 cylinder 1 open ignition circuit
17769 cylinder 3 open ignition circuit
17772 cylinder 4 open ignition circuit
So am I correct in thinking that it's from the cracked harness? An not a vac leak?
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Question, I have a 2003 VW Golf GLS 2.0L AHV (5 speed). The brake vacuum line is cracked after the check valve on the intake side. I looked up the part number on the hose (at work and don't have it on me at the moment), did some research and noticed some revisions to that part number. Eventually settled on [URL] ..... (I ordered a new one since I needed to order a few things). Needless to say, I am beginning to think I ordered wrong.
I noticed that the check valve on the new hose has a 3rd piece that a smaller hose looks to clamp on? The check valve that is in my car doesn't have that. Did I order the wrong part? or did I need to be a cap?
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So my daughter's 2000 Golf Mk4 with 160,000 miles on it was running rough and had 3 codes stored - cylinders 2 & 3 misfire and a 411 secondary air injection problem.
Having had the misfire code before I swapped injectors around and the error code moved cylinders with the injectors so I attempted cleaning them and also cleaned the throttle body and intake manifold. At this point car still running rough but also started smoking badly.
Replaced the following items:
- Spark plugs
- Spark plug wires
- PCV valve
- PCV hose
- Fuel injectors w/ remanufactured
Hose reconnected between secondary air injection pump and air intake - previous owner had duct-taped it in when he couldn't get it to seal I guess. I've never heard it run.
Car running better, idles more smoothly, doesn't stumble or stall like it did before, no error codes coming up BUT car smokes a lot and the fumes make me feel sick just driving it a mile.
The car had never smoked like this before, hasn't had a whole lot of love the last year or two but no real problems either so why the sudden smoke?
At first I assumed it was cleaner being burned off but that should have been gone in under a minute and this is on-going. It's bad enough to not only be embarrassing but apparently dangerous as the fumes are bad.
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I have a 2004 Jetta 1.8t 6speed, I recently bought it from a person(my first VW ever) so just trying to fix some things on it, One thing that I'm stuck at is My CEL, it keeps flashing the code P0501 and some random misfire on my cylinders, I have reset it and they keep coming back.
when I put about 10-15% throttle it revs up fine, no misfire or hesitation until the fuel gets cut off around 5500, which is 1k below factory red line, does not hit a thing like the rev limiter where it pegs off the top multiple times just fuel cuts off.
If i put anything above the said pressure the car then begins to misfire and lots of hesitation and that's what causes those codes to go off.
I've been reading many things pointing towards the engine speed sensor or the wiring. Occasionally my fuel/temp gauge quit working but I believe that is a separate issue all together.
So really trying to narrow down what is actually causing my engine to hesitate at low rpm.
Also i might note when I'm in neutral I can go wide open throttle and the car revs fine until the cutoff and only does the bog down when it's under full load. It sorta feels like the possible misfire is due to bad air/fuel but really do not know.
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I suspected I had a vacuum leak somewhere, was told it wasn't likely. Just installed a tune in the evening drove it 15 miles was pretty sure I had one.
Installed Forge DV the next morning it was evident I had one by the sound the DV was Making. I checked the car head to toe and found two lines had broken apart. I replaced them will silicone lines and it appeared to be fixed.
Drove it 5 miles and the 'turkey sound' came back. (This is the sound that I originally heard and confirmed I had a vacuum leak somewhere)
I searched all over there car, had a second set of eyes that was mechanically inclined and we found nothing obviously causing a problem. We ended up just taking off the Forge DV and testing it by hand it held up and re installing it and securing it.
Strange enough that fixed the problem (no other hoses were tampered with while we were inspecting)
Drove the car home about 15 miles and stopped in a drive through. At some point while sitting something happened. Cause when I left the drive through then I noticed the car seemed to be lacking at low end, turned down the music and I could hear the turkey call. I left the car alone for the night. Thought maybe heat jas a factor in this. Drove it this morning and it was just how I left it. I inspected the hoses and found no change. I took the DV off and inspected then re installed. I noticed the turkey call was not as predominant but still completely present.
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I need replacement vacuum hose part for my GTI 337. The piece that is disconnected is the hose from the break booster to the intake manifold. It appears to be at a one way valve. I found a picture from a different DIY, that I have circled in green. The red arrow points to the place where it separated. I am not sure if this is a matter of me using a new clamp or buying a new piece of hose from advanced auto parts. The vacuum sets on ECS Tuning and it doesn't appear to be the correct set.
[URL].........
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Ever since I got my car about 5/6 months ago I noticed it's not getting full boost. when I first got it the stock boost was getting about 5-7 I don't know if that's normal I've read they normally get more. eventually I got my car tuned and it's supposed to peak at 22 psi but it only got to about 13-14 psi. slowly it's been getting worse and my car is getting 2 psi. I've had lots of people tell me it's a vacuum leak. also the bov makes a flutter noise if that has anything to do with it. my intake doesn't make a sucking in noise like most do. The car has been randomly backfiring usually between gears. I just ordered a turbo inlet pipe a breather hose kit and a boost hose kit.
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As title states, I scanned my gti and got P0420 (nothing new here) and P1136. I did some searching and looks like vacuum leak can cause this, however I also read that it'll affect my idle. I replaced MAF 2 years ago with a brand new OEM one, my idle is NOT rough, at all.
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Okay, so a few weeks ago, my tire blew out on the freeway. Of course my spare wasn't in there and when I got one I couldn't get the lugs loosened. My 4way was too big on all sides. It was late, I am a single mother of two young kids so I had no choice but to drive slowly to get it off the freeway. The next morning I came back fully prepared, got my car in to get a new tire. I have been driving with ONE code for my CEL, but at the shop (where I use to work) I used the scanner and it threw 5 codes.
P0300 Random misfire
P0442 Small EVAP leak detected (this one was already there)
P0420 Catalyst system below threshold bank 1
P0301 Misfire cyl 1
P0303 Misfire cyl 3
My beautiful love is an 02 Jetta 2.0 4 Cyl. Now, since 4 of these codes popped up AFTER my first blowout (I turn 30 next month, knock on wood)
Did driving my car at 5 mph about a mile and a half (everywhere up until the gas station was NO PARKING) do something to my car? All of a sudden, any in town driving ESP IDLING makes my check engine light blink and my car has no power I just have to pull over wherever I am. I checked the car out myself on the side of the road and my cat was glowing. After this I do not drive my car.
So, what should I do. I did a tune up. Should I replace the 02 sensors then the cat?
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So, unfortunately, when I go to start it, it dies shortly after. So I scanned it and I'm pulling up a couple codes, actually quite a few. I'm currently at work and can't look them all up.
U102f
p0011
p052a
p0300
p0303
p0506
p0011
Most of them are misfires, but what are the chances that I've got a misfire in all four of my cylinders? Bad coil packs all go at once? I was told it could potentially be a boost leak?
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I have a 2001 Jetta 2.0L standard transmission I believe my exhaust manifold is cracked looking for a replacement. There is a local guy selling one off a 2001 golf wondering if that would work on my car..
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I just replaced my CTS, and I noticed that there is a small section of exposed harness wiring between the end of the loom and the CTS connector. I can't tell if it came loose when I swapped the sensor, or if it was this way for awhile, but all of the other harness connections around this area are completely covered and the loom end doesn't seem to clip into the connector or anything. If I were to try and seal it, I would need to use tape.
How hot does this area get? It seems like there shouldn't be exposed wiring here.
Picture taken with the new sensor: [URL] ...
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I own a 2002 GTI and my sunroof was damaged beyond repair.
A local headliner shop had a used 2004 Jetta sunroof which he sold to me. The shop owner said everything was in working order with the sunroof except the wire harness that runs to the sunroof was missing the plug since it was cut. He recommended just taking the plug from my GTI sunroof motor and soldering it onto the Jetta motor since it may throw off the "timing" of the sunroof motor and would need to be recalibrated if removed. Keep in mind he is an authorized Webasco dealer so I took him at his word.
I cut my plug off of my GTI sunroof motor harness and began to solder it onto the Jetta sunroof.
I quickly noticed the Jetta sunroof motor had one extra wire (Brown). I didn't think it would be a big deal since my GTI doesn't have 6 wires and only requires 5 so I mounted the new sunroof with the Jetta motor onto the car.
The sunroof retracted back into the "fully open" position and would close but would not go into the "vent" position. Each time I would turn the dial to the "vent" position, the sunroof would slide back into the "fully open" position.
I thought this was a bit strange and now I am beginning to wonder if I need to swap the GTI sunroof motor on my car due to it not have the extra wire or is the Jetta sunroof motor going to work fine but another issue is causing this to happen?
Below are the differences in the two sunroof motors. Both are Bosch products.
Jetta Sunroof Motor - Part Number : GDO 849 696 564
This part has 6 wires that connect to it.
White, Green, Gray, Blue, Purple, and Brown
Where as the GTI has only 5 wires on it.
GTI Sunroof Motor - Part Number : GDO 849 696 566
White, Green, Gray, Blue, and Purple
The difference between the two is the additional BROWN found in the Jetta sunroof motor.
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Swapping a 2004 2.4 motor and trans into my 03 that has a locked up motor. Pulled the motor out of the 2004 yesterday and started tearing into my 2003 today and noticed that the 2004 motor and harness doesn't have the provision for the vacuum control valve mounted in the air cleaner lid like the 2003 has. Since I'll be using the harness and ECM from the 2004 into the 2003, wondering if I can just either use the lid from the 2003 and keep the VCV(hook lines back up) but not have electrical connection going to it. It will basically be pulling the vapors 100% of the time since there is no power going to it and it's a naturally open valve.
Using the harness from the 2004 that I pulled with the engine, there is no way of hooking up to the VCV since the 2004 didn't have one(hence no electrical connector).
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Today I replaced my thermostat and thermostat housing. I happened to be unfortunate and cracked my dipstick tube (probably should be replaced at 135k miles anyways). I know I can get it at the dealership, but it's pretty far out of my way and wouldn't mind just ordering it from ecstuning or something.
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Recently bought a MKV R32. Already had a magnaflow cbe, k&n panel filter, and some emissions stuff taken out from under the hood. not sure if it has been flashed, waiting to get a vagcom. think it is pretty stock other than that. My problem is about 2 weeks after I got it, I started to notice an exhaust leak or vacuum leak or both at higher RPMs, like above 3 or 4k it starts. The exhaust has a nice deep rumble in normal driving but when the leak noises start that is all you hear, the exhaust note disappears completely. I have tightened the clamps on the cbe and still does it. Not sure what to look for.
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I have a vacuum leak on the driver side seal on the changeover rod in the intake manifold. It was replaced recently at the dealer and now has another hole in it. I was told this is caused by oil in the lines and my pcv valve is bad.
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Car: 2011 VW GTI MkVI
Mileage: 79k
Configuration: Stock
Warranty/Coverage: None
So I started my car last Monday and the check engine light was on. Didn't think much of it because the car ran fine and there were no immediate symptoms. I was busy with work this week, but noticed some changes in the car's performance over time so I waited till Thursday to have it scanned at AutoZone, which threw the following codes:
P 300 Definition: Random Engine Misfire
Explanation: Lean air/fuel ratio
Probable Cause: Ignition system misfire condition, Fuel injector fault, Engine mechanical condition
P 302 Definition: Cylinder 2 Misfire
Explanation: Vacuum leak on engine
Probable Cause: Ignition system misfire condition, Fuel injector fault, Engine mechanical condition
P 303 Definition: Cylinder 3 Misfire
Explanation: Vacuum leak on engine
Probable Cause: Ignition system misfire condition, Fuel injector fault, Engine mechanical condition
Prior to making any purchases I noticed that I started losing some pickup, primarily in lower gears between 2-3k RPM's. Praying that it was somehow just the coils/plugs I bought the R8 pack for both and replaced them this evening. Engine starts up and continues to misfire. I have not had a chance to have it scanned but it would appear it isn't the plugs or coils.
When the plugs were removed, there was an 'oily' substance on the threads, which also seemed like it could have been burnt off fuel or oil pushed up from the cylinder. Also 2 of the plugs seemed looser than the others and didn't feel properly sealed. New R8 install included proper plugs for STOCK application, as I do not run any tuning, and i installed with the appropriate plug grease added lightly to the threads.
I took the car for a spin with the R8 coils/plugs installed to compare it to how the car was doing prior the install. Car misfires and seems fine (relatively) at idle and revving to 2-3k rpm yields NO change. It is almost unable to accelerate up a hill, or go past 30 MPH without the car shaking and any gear higher than 3rd seems not drivable. I feel these are my potential diagnoses before i bring it somewhere and have it looked at.
In Order of Most Likely:
1) Fuel Injectors
2) Air Intake
3) High Pressure Fuel Pump
4) Electronic Leads for the Coils
5) Battery Needs Changed
6) Chain Tensioner Failure
7) Coils and Sparks are all Bad, and I am an idiot
I would prefer to do this work myself and can afford the parts. I just didn't want to be fooling around all month without a mode of transportation to get to and from work.
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Is it possible that disconnecting battery causes a misaligned throttle body, which in turn causes the EPC light to come on? And does a misaligned throttle body also cause misfiring cylinders (1 & 2 in this case)?
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Having problem on mrk 6, sounds almost like a high pitched vacuum leak but I can't find it.
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Ok so I have an 04 Jetta 2.0 and lately it's been overheating on me. The first time it started overheating was because my radiator was cracked and leaked out all my coolant, I swapped the radiator everything was fine for a while. The second time I started overheating, I saw my primary fan was bad it wasn't spinning at all, I swapped it everything was fine for another while. I also changed the coolant temp sensor, it wasn't bad it's just because the coolant flange was leaking coolant, so I changed it a long with the O-Rings and sensor. I also changed the thermostat just incase that was the problem but it wasn't.
I don't think the fans are turning on by them selves when they have too, but either way the car still overheats when I turn on the fans manually with the A/C. I'm not sure if the coolant is circulating, as the car only begins to overheat when I come to a stop and it idles. I have a feeling it's the water pump but I wanna be sure it is before I change it. What it could be? Things that I should check for that usually go out?
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