Golf IV / Jetta IV :: MK4 Door Not Opening On 1st Pull
Dec 25, 2014
I have seen a few thread about this on many VW sites. People with doors that when you unlock doors don't open from outside until you open from inside or you have to give the door a slight push closed and then it will click and open with 1 pull of outside handle. The problem is the door latch/striker whatever you wanna call it that mounts to the car body itself. It needs to be adjusted up or down just a bit. My pass door would not open with first pull then I read somewhere about people pushing door and then pulling on handle for it to open. So I went and played with latch. Moved it up about 3/16" and door works perfect.
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My left side, rear door I have to pull the handle two times to open the door.
1st time: opens 1/4 inch
2nd time: fully opens
I checked the problem a bit, saw the same problem on a MKV where they opened the handle and they had to adjust a little thingy ?
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I have a MK4 Jetta, I've owned it for about 1 year. I've never had a problem with the key, but in the last few days, it only opens the driver door? No matter how many times I hit the button it won't unlock the rest of the doors?
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I was having battery issues and had a friend hook up a battery charger to my car today. They pulled some relays to see if they could figure out why it was starting right. When I left for work the car started fine but I notice my windows would not roll down at all. I figured no biggie I would deal with it tomorrow.
When I got to work I realized my key fob had stopped working too. Again, I have a key will unlock it after work and deal with it later. After work tonight, I go to the car, I tried the key fob and nothing. No surprise. But I unlocked the driver door and it won't open, try to unlock the trunk it won't open.
I was told they pulled the relays and reseated them when messing with the battery. I can see a red light flashing below the radio. To top it off the keys to my other car are locked in the trunk along with my purse!
2002 Jetta Turbo 1.8....
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When opening driver side door, engine dies.Cannot access the convenience control module with VAGcom.
Swapped in another CCM, same behavior. Have not tried yet to access the swap module with VAGcom.
What might cause the 'engine kill' when door is opened? How to further troubleshoot?
Quick fix: disable 'door contact' (not sure, but assume it is integrated into the door lock/actuator (as a microswitch likely?).
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As the title states, my alarm horn chirps when opening the unlocked passenger door in my '03 Golf. Asked the master tech about it and we sat there scratching our heads for a while. Nothing he's ever seen or heard before. What set of conditions would create this?
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Is it just me experiencing this weird behavior...When I open my doors with the key fob, I pull the handle and the door doesnt open. It does open a little bit, but its still latched closed. Pulling the handle again opens the door.
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What is that weird sound when opening the door on my new 4 door Golf VII? It sounds like something is resetting itself. It sounds like it is supposed to be doing this. Doing this since day one. Just curious as to what is going on.
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Can I use my key to open my trunk in the case of a dead battery? I disconnected my battery last night to try it out, but it wouldn't open. Some people say turn the key 50 degrees, but I don't think my key will turn that far. I was also scared of snapping the key off in the lock.
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No more fuel pump priming sound upon opening door but the car still fires up without any problem. And yes it was after the car sat for a day or two without being started. I kind of got used to that sound and was like now that it is gone. Should I be worried my fuel pump is on the way out?
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I have to pull up really hard to get the parking brake to hold. If I'm on a hill forget it, I yank up really hard and then leave it in gear just in case. I have installed new cables and pads. I have also have the lever adjusted so it starts to catch when you pull it up about 2-3 inches. I've never driven another mk4 so I don't have any other reference to how well the parking brake should hold but I would think that I wouldn't have to pull up this hard to get it to habe any real holding power.
Any other vehicle I've driven with a hand brake I could easily lock up the rear tires. I'm lucky to get mine to lock while pulling so hard I think I'm going to break something. I've searched around and have only come up with threads about replacing cables and adjusting the lever. I couldn't find anything like the problem I'm having. Is this normal operation for a mk4 or is there something wrong with my calipers that needs to be addressed? My regular brakes work fine and the parking brake arms on the calipers allear to be functioning properly. They contract then spring back on their own
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I have a 2003 Volkswagen Golf 2.0L 5 speed manual. Over the last 10,000 miles a problem started where on the highway in 5th gear, if i try to speed up by putting the pedal down, the steering wheel moves itself to the left and the car steers to the left. The wheel returns to the original position when i let off of the gas. its scary at high speeds and has become so bad that I can feel it accelerating at low speeds too.
The alignment is off and the steering wheel slightly to the right. when I put the gas down and it goes perfectly straight and when i release it goes back to the right. it has 126,000 miles on it. I know it needs tires, shocks and an alignment job but don't think that those factors are causing my problem. Could it be the motor mounts?
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I can't figure if it's a TB issue as I've just had it replaced or a mount problem. I only get the knock on biting point idle and pull away under load. This noise is driving me insane.
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I traded my 08 R32 for a certified 2013 GTI Autobahn 4 dr. and have noticed a few quirks or issues. I have had several Vw's and my wife currently has a 2010 Tiguan SEL awd. The car goes in on the 10th to see what the dealer can find out. I bought the car with roughly 9400 miles and it has 11,300 on it now.
Issue 1 - The passenger side door handle does not pull smoothly to open. When you pull on it it goes about half way and stops and then you have to pull it again or harder. I am thinking it is an alignment issue.
Issue 2 - When i first start driving after the car has sat overnight in the garage or in the parking lot at work I get a swirling sound from the rear brakes. I do set the parking brake every time it is parked. It is almost like the brakes are not releasing all the way or rub for a little.
Issue 3 - This is the one that is odd and concerns me. When i first start driving the car takes several minutes to come up to 190 degrees. I baby the car till it gets up to temp for the turbos sake. But oddly after it gets up to temp with in 5 minutes it is like the thermostat opens and it cools back down to 150-160 and then comes back up to temp. My wife's car does not do this and neither did the 07 Passat 2.0t. Is this common? When talking to the service advisor (who I have been dealing with for a while) he said he has never had this issue come up.
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2004 Mk IV Jetta 2.0
I thought it was the trunk actuator, so I ordered a new one. I thought this because when I hit the button to open the trunk, I heard a slight buzz (not the sound of the actuator extending) but the arm didn't push out.
When I hooked up the new one to the wire to test it out the same thing happened. I also tested both actuators with a 9V battery and they worked correctly. So, it's not a problem with the actuator itself, and I don't think it's a problem with the wiring since there is at least enough power coming through to cause a buzzing noise...so I don't know what else it could be.
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I have a 1.8T with 152kmiles
Recently, both the coolant reservoir 'Y' connector and the driver side coolant flange cracked and I was shooting G12 all over the engine. I've replaced both of the parts and the coolant temp sensor with a "green top". Reservoir was refilled with the proper ratio of G12 to distilled water, ran for a bit and topped off accordingly.
This morning I started my drive to work and the engine temp was at 0 for a minute or so and started to climb slowly to 190. It stayed at 190 until I took the exit to the highway and the temp slowly started to rise while I was at 60mph. I immediately turned around and went back home with the heat cranked to high. With the heat on, the engine temp would slowly go down but then rise again if I, A. turned the heat off or B. made a hard pull up to ~55+mph.
I popped the hood and the coolant was not boiling and I couldn't see/smell/hear any leak. could this be the thermostat or is this a water pump issue? I plan on taking the thermostat off and checking the pump empellars for any shards. I'm not sure but I do believe the water pump was replaced by my parents while I was on deployment.
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Just replaced the door lock up/down on a 2001 golf. After getting the door all back together I pulled the door open and the door handle popped out slightly at both ends. What happened? It now wont reset into the door flush like before.
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About 4 months ago I was at the gas station and when I tried opening my fuel door, the switch wasn't working. I went home, took the door trim off, and then removed the switch in order to clean it. Once I cleaned it, it worked but about every 3rd time that I clicked it. However, yesterday it finally gave out as I was at the gas station. So I came home and now I'm stuck because I don't want to break the fuel door.
I ran through the fuses in the fuse box but on the diagram none seem to be for the fuel door. The weird thing is that yesterday as the fuel door switch gave out, so did the interior door lock switch. Now I have to insert the key from the outside in order to enter the car. But the key cannot unlock the passenger door.
When I hit the interior door lock switch, I hear a click noise under the dash. I took a look under there and it seems to be a bunch of relays. It's very tough to tell which one is the one clicking.
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So yesterday I installed a Kenwood Double Din with a back up camera....that being said I was in and around the car all day, door panels, trim panels, rear bumper etc etc all removed. After completing the install the "Door Ajar" light stayed on, on the dash. No interior lights remained on to show a doors open, and the trunk light goes out when the doors closed. The drivers side door module is no good, and its been no good for a few months now. It doesn't show when the doors open, so i doubt that is the problem. What it could be? Any way to figure out which door is the one that's staying open?
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So the switch for my fuel door has not been working for a while. I can still manually open it by reaching through the liner in the truck, but it has started to get on my nerves recently. I tried changing out the switch and that didn't seem to work, it was a switch from the junk yard but I tried 2 different ones and neither worked. It might be the fuel door actuator?
2003 Jetta GLS 1.8T ....
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I put my car in reverse and my door locks has some sort of spasm. The rear locks started twitching for several seconds then stopped.
Now both key fobs will only unlock the drive's side door. All locks work fine with the key.
Untimely demise on my remote unlock feature? Other threads have dealt with single door issues. We had that problem with the rear door on our 99 but this not the same issue since only one door will unlock remotely.
I know that my car battery needs to be replaced but it should not cause a problem. Also all fuses were checked and are ok. What to check.
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