Golf IV / Jetta IV :: MK4 VR6 Is Consuming Too Much Oil
Mar 24, 2015
I have a mk4 jetta vr6 200,000 miles with a bigger pcv and a cold air intake ( universal) and silicone vacuum hoses and secondary water pump delete and exhaust. (Just a little info) I seem to have a lot of blow by and its been eating 2qts or so of oil between oil changes. I am using 20w50 castrol gtx high mileage and a locus and is still eating it (2qts). I do drive it hard and race so I figured it would be fine the thicker oil plus arizona heat. I am thinking maybe more lucas additive about 40% of lucas and 60% 20w50. Just trying to keep it running support the worn seal and compression and horsepower and of course oil lose. It is such a pleasure to drive and race.
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I have a 4 door 1.8t AWW
Like I said in the title I keep getting the P0172 and can't seem to shake it no matter what I do. I believe the car is in soft limp mode as I can't boost above 5 psi. I'm also consuming oil fairly quickly (atlas 2 quarts in a span of 2-3 months), no smoke out back though. I did find that the whole PCV system underneath the plenum was wet, but nothing else was? Checked the PCV valve and it seemed operational and didn't stay open. Check PCV system for cracks and was unable to see any which added to the confusion.
Thing's I've done to try and fix problem:
-replaced breather hose because of crack
-went through all the vacuum lines and replaced where needed
-have two n75j's that I'm unsure if they work or not (is n75j the stock valve for the AWW?)
-cleaned the maf
-replaced valve cover gasket
-changed plugs
-replaced dv with splitter
Other things for diagnose:
-little wet around 2 of the injectors on top of the plenum (old o rings?)
-when running splitter full atmospheric I can hit 10psi but with it closed off can't get past 5psi
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My wife and I just bought a used 2006 Honda Civic LX with about 90K miles. It's going through about 1qt of oil every 500 miles. No puddles or oil leaks on the driveway and the engine is clean of leaking oil. What could be causing this? Could this be attributed to a crack in the engine block? Cracked blocks are known to be a problem with this model and year and the subject of a tech note by Honda and they have extended the warranty to 8 years because of it. Have others had this problem? The car was serviced by a local dealer, Boch Honda in MA, by the previous owner and has had the oil changed every 3K miles. I have all the documentation.
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My 95 Bonne with 3.8L uncharged engine (90 k miles) is consuming coolant. No external leaks (hoses, clamps, core plugs, water pump, radiator, heater or overflow tank). Coolant side pressure checked hot & cold OK. Coolant sniffed for exhaust; none detected. Here is the crux: the exhaust pipe drips GREEN LIQUID. Engine runs fine (for now).
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I'm most likely picking up a 03 jetta glx vr6. Thing is the 6th gear is out. Is the entire transmission about to break or is it a common thing?
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I have a 02 golf gti it has 3 inch turbo back catless exhaust k04 turbo front mount inter cooler hks blow off valve eurodyne tuning software i just did the sai/n249 valve/and pcv delete and I put a new n75 valve on it and my car still wont go over 7 psi. The tuning software is asking 18 but it just wont go over 7?
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So I've recently picked up a 2004 1.8t GTI. The check engine kicked in just weeks after purchasing and I had Autozone check the ecu for the code. As it turns out my CAT has gone and it's in need of replacing. I went to a shop for a second opinion and they confirmed the issue. Now to replace the stock CAT . Seems damn high even for a stock VW part.
I was looking into purchasing a performance cat at a lower price or just changing out the whole exhaust system from the turbo back. So my question is if I just change the CAT will I be able to stop on an aftermarket cat-back exhaust system, does it matter if its stock or not.
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I recently picked up an 01 jetta and the day after i bought it the check engine light came on with a 3 codes. i erased the codes and than after a day of driving the light came back on with code p0171.
I did some research and figured i should get a new air filter and clean the MAF but i was waiting until pay day.
Today, about a week later, the ASR light came on and won't come off so i ran the obd again and now there is codes P0171, P0102 so i cleared them again to see if the ASR would should off. the check engine light is off for now but the ASR came right back on when i started the car.
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LLast night I was driving. I got off the highway and pulling on to the main road in 2nd, I ripped on it and went into 3rd quickly. It basically kicked it out of gear, and didn't seem like I had any other gear besides 1st or 2nd. Got to a local gas station in 2nd, and I originally thought my linkage had come off. While trying to back into a spot to make life easier, there was no reverse. seems like the trans is binding up. Aligned the linkage anyway, when the car is off, it goes into every gear, but when it is on, it feels like 1st-2nd-nothing. If I roll the car backwards and then forward, I have 1st. Other than that, it will not engage. If I put the trans in reverse and then try to back up, it feels like the trans is binding. Same with 1st, unless the car is running. Traction control light will not turn off either, will have it scanned this week to determine that issue...
Ive seen most people have issues with the 1st-2nd shift fork and have this causing the reverse issues.
2005 GLI 1.8t
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I have a 1.8t and it has the dreadful low pressure issue, not quite sure if I have sludge or not but i've run some sea foam through it earlier to clean (I'm aware that sea foam is a solvent) and am going to drop the pan, clean it out and replace the pump and pickup and take care of all of it in one go. I plan on using the felpro 2.slow gasket instead of gasket sealant but my question is, how do I remove the tension off of the oil pump chain to remove the pump? i'm pretty new to Volkswagens so don't be to rough.
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My air conditioner is not getting cold. The fan is running, and the AC light is coming on when i turn the dial. Also, the compressor is working and the clutch is engaging. I checked the fuses inside the car and the fuse above the battery.
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I was told I can use a mk3 O2a transmission in my mk4 12v, reason is because my transmission decided to blow up on me I just figured this because a mk3 transmission will be cheaper and easier to find.....I also heard something about swapping the shifter tower.
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I need to know but I'm not near the car.
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Let the car run for roughly 15-20 min still not at full operating temp 90 celuis, and when it is at 90 only blows warm air not hot hot air advice> water pump and timing belt have been done in nov as well as coolant flush.
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The car was starting to have issues going into gear after a night of cruising. Then I was experiencing what I am thinking was clutch creep. The clutch would be down and in gear and the car wanted to slowly roll.
What I have done to try and fix it:
I have bled the system many times to get all the air out(i believe), and also readjusted the the linkage. NOW, the car will not go into gear when it is on but will when it is off. I have the car on stands at the moment and it will shift through all the gears when the car is on just the wheels spin since it is in the air.
The clutch/flywheel/pp/throw out bearing all have less then 2k miles on them. Tranny fluid has been replaced with Penzoil syncomesh. I have yet to ever do a hard launch.
Clutchmasters Fx400, OEM DMFW.
Car is an 02m trans w/o the black cap in the side so I cannot do the washer/gasket mod for clutch creep. Believe I have to order NLS shim kit and put behind the throw out bearing.
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What are the normal things to look for to troubleshoot an A/C system? I do not have much experience with A/C's. I do not hear the compressor kick on, and it is blowing hot air. I know the fans should be on but both of them at the same time as soon as I turn the A/C on? I was thinking it's not the freon because it will lose its cooling over time not all of a sudden not work right?
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i got this 24v vr6 that wont turn over. I've been rebuilding the whole exterior and verifying that everything looks intact. Here's what I've done to it so far when it did run:
- replaced snapped serp belt and new tensioner
- had a recently new starter
- apparently the alternator is somewhat new
- new coilpacks for all cylinders and spark plugs cause they really needed it
There is 11.90 v for the battery but if i try to turn it over a few times it feels like the battery is practically dying. I am thinking it may be an issue with the alternator so I even grabbed some jumper cables and it was better but still no start. I don't think its the ignition switch because it actually cranks. my only fear is the wiring harness is in rough shape all the way around the car. Maybe a bad MAF sensor?
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Decided to re use a thread I no longer needed, the problem. Was driving my 01 Jetta, cel and epc came on, would drive kind of rough (typical "replace your cool pack" question) but parked at home and when I went to drive again not a problem for two days then today no epc but the cel was flashing?.. Then again 20 mins later after parking the car it drove fine?.. I'm confused wouldn't a bad coil pack be consistent with the cel or rough idle/ driving? Would swapping around the coils work for this? Or should I try find the specific bad one and just replace it?
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Long story short, bought a 2001 GTI VR about a month ago and have been doing little fixes to get it up to snuff. Went to put gas in the other day and it took about two gallons before spitting gas back out the filler hole. Car has no codes or lights on, so I'm thinking this is a potential clogged vent tube, as the car was sitting for a few months (has spider webs all over the passenger rear wheel well). I've searched and can't find anything except for TDI related stuff.
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I'm having problems with my abs. I recently had my front left Barring replaced an when I got the car back the abs light was on. So I asked the guy what the problem was he said it's just a abs speed sensor. So I have been driving it an I hear a quiet scratching sound, definitely metal on metal. So I took my tire off an found a line in the back of my rotor. Perfectly circler an about 1/16 depth. I brought it to my dads buddy's shop with a new abs speed sensor it said mine was fine he cleaned it off and if there's a problem come back. So I've been looking into an I'm wondering if it's the abs control module that I need but why is it only happing on the front left?
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I have a MK4 PD150 with the ARL engine and it's drinking coolant!
I'm no mechanic but I think I've narrowed it down seen as there is no visual leaks on the ground. EGR cooler or head gasket.
I've had the car about a month and the garage I bought it from said that it had been pressure tested so this makes me think that it would more likely be the EGR cooler? It's been sat on my drive for three weeks also as I've just passed my test after recently turning 17.
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