Golf IV / Jetta IV :: MK4 GLS 2.0 Shuddering When Drive In Reverse
Nov 25, 2014
I bought a MK4 GLS 2.0 5 spd with 200,000km on it back in february, It currently has 208,000km on it.
Whenever I drive in reverse, I get this loud shuddering/rattling noise with a slight vibration. I've noticed that it is louder from a stop and when the clutch it partially depressed accelerating,but pretty much goes away when the clutch is let out or when coasting.
It is sounds like it is coming from behind the front seats to the rear of the car. It almost sounds like the rear shock mounts are rattling. I also sometimes still here a slight knock, similar to the sound of worn sway bar bushings, but replaced those a few weeks ago.
I also get the same knock whenever I screw up a shift and the engine moves. I also considered and engine or transmission mount but i don't really get any vibration through the steering wheel other than a small amount which could be attributed to the poly dog bone bushings.
About two months ago but I replaced the RR shock mount with a new one. The old one looked fine. I replaced the RL shock mount with the one that I removed from the RR side.
Changing the shock mounts made no difference but I noticed that I could easily compress the RL rear shock with my hand. Could worn rear shocks be causing this noise/vibration? I've searched but I can't find an explanation besides the shock mounts.
I have replaced a few suspension components in the last few months:
-rear beam bushings in august
-front sway bar bushings a few weeks ago
-RR rear shock mount (new)
-RL rear shock mount (used from other side, but looked fine and replacing it made no difference)
-energy suspension poly dog bone bushings about six months ago
I don't think the car was really maintained that well due to it having original sway bar bushings and having tires that were worn very unevenly due to the rear beam bushings when I got it.
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Recently I've noticed that every time when shifting from park to drive and occasionally from reverse to drive in my 05 Golf GLS, I would have to remain off the gas for 3-4 seconds otherwise the car would jerk forward. If I press on the gas ever so slightly, the rpm would go up to around 1000 then jerk. Why this is happening?
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I just changed my oil in my mk4 jetta 1.8L and after draining the oil, changing filer, and adding new oil, the car will not move in drive or reverse. Once I give it gas it will move but that's at the higher rpms. I am almost positive I didn't remove the transmission oil but I am just not sure.
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I have a 2001 vr6 Jetta automatic transmission. When I shift my car from park into to reverse or drive the whole car jerks as if it's banging into gears. But while driving it drives normal. When I stop and accelerate I feel the same jerking you would say.
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1.8T ... Well, initially, engine light came on with a violent shake from the engine compartment. It was really really bad. I thought the engine mount just broke off or something...
First I looked at the coil packs and the spark plugs. The spark plugs were pretty old (I got the 02 Jetta 1.8T at ~140k miles for 1k, so no surprises). Spark plug on cylinder 2 was real bad, and that was the cylinder with the misfire code. Got a new set of spark plugs first. It worked a lot and the violent shuddering mostly went away.
The engine still idled erratically jumping and dipping at idle, even with the A/C off. So I replaced the coil pack on cylinder 2 after doing the coil pack switch test... After replacing the one coil pack, the engine idles like like it's new.
When I put the car in neutral and rev the engine to the redline, it revs nicely, very smooth. When I drive the car, when I accelerate reasonably slowly with the traffic, the car drives just fine. If I keep the car in lower gears and use light throttle to accelerate, it is smooth even past the rpm range where the turbo would be spooled up.
It is only when I dip into the throttle a bit more (no where near full throttle) to try to pass a car or accelerate just a bit harder, a little past ~2200rpm ish which is when the turbo starts spooling from the sound of it, it starts shuddering badly, and check engine light comes back on. The code shows misfire in cylinder 2.
My guess is there's something off with fuel system. My non-mechanic thought process is that maybe the injector is clogged and when it's light throttle, light acceleration, it injects little fuel and its ok, but when under heavier load / throttle, it tries to inject more fuel, but can't because it's clogged...
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I'm a broke grad student with a 1995 Jetta. I've had it about four years, and it's mostly been all right. Granted, it's mostly held together with luck at this point--my dad's a former mechanic, and he did a fair bit of work on it before I moved a thousand miles away. The other day on my way to work, the car started bucking and shuddering, especially when I first started moving. I was very nearly out of gas, and I thought that might be the problem. I put some in and things got almost totally better almost immediately. Tonight, the car tries to start, but it won't catch. My dad thinks I have water in my tank. Would that do this?
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I got a 99' Jetta gls 5 spd. I just replaced the transmission and now the car won't engage reverse from inside the cockpit. Reverse can be engage from inside the engine bay, but when the shift knob is depressed nothing happens. Linkag cables are in the correct spots.
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After reversing the car and coming to a stop to change to drive the car seems to bog down like the engine is dying or hesitating but then will pick back up and then start moving forward.
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Two months and 2500 miles on my GTI and I feel like I finally know what the DSG is going to do most of the time. Driving with a cold tranny? Expect some delayed clutch takeup and very noticeable downshifting. Downshifting to pass? Goose the throttle a bit before hand to let the car know what you want. Shifting from reverse to drive? Better come to a full stop. EXCEPT! My DSG will still seemingly stall during this transition roughly 1 out of 3 times. I cannot find any rhyme or reason to it and now basically have to sit stopped in N for a good 3-5 seconds before shifting into D to keep the car from doing that quick surge and stop maneuver. I feel like it might be something with the timing of when I press or release the brake. I love every other aspect of the car which is why it's so annoying having to explain to passengers why the transmission in my 30 thousand dollar hatchback just fell on its face.
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I have what sounds like a spring noise or a slight rub of a newly installed coilover set. The thing is it only happens when backing out of the garage and down the drive way in reverse, I'm not able to recreate it when moving forward. I've notice that it happens on all four. It is a very subtle sound/feel but it is there. I have about a one inch drop when backing out this when it occurs and yesterday I noticed it also happens when I go over the small lines that divide the driveway concrete slabs, but only when in reverse. Besides this the car rides and feels great with no other problems.
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I'm almost 99% positive I need to replace my Drivers Front Axle Assembly. I can feel it "click" when I reverse down my drive way and at low speeds regardless whether I turn the wheel. However, at street speeds, you can no longer feel it. I wanted to know if all Axles aftermarket are created equal.
Can I go with the one from ECS : [URL] ..... Or is this a part where staying OEM is important?
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I'm a proud owner of 2005 Mustang GT, 4.6L with an automatic transmission. Intermittently for the last year or so (maybe once every 3 or 4 months) its been shuddering when in reverse. Today it ramped things up a notch. :-/ The shuddering was pretty dramatic when I was trying to back out of my driveway, I shifted into park for a moment, then back into reverse, and it seemed to be ok. Then when trying to back into a parking spot this afternoon at work (in a parking garage with a small incline) it lost power almost entirely in reverse, lightly pushing on the gas just caused the car to shudder and not move anywhere. I shifted into park, and then back into reverse and heard an audible "pop" (my windows were down, but they hadn't been earlier so I'm not sure if this happened in the morning) and the car did not want to reverse. Rather than risk further damage I decided that it was parked relatively ok (90% in the space, eh good enough) so I stopped.
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My 2000 dodge caravan with the 3.3 is shuddering while in gear and not moving especially in reverse . As soon as you start going it stops . No slipping whatsoever. The van only has 130'000 miles on it .
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I own a 91 Mercedes, model 190E which is just perfect for a retired single woman. As you probably already assume this car has 141,000 miles with an automatic transmission and I have had it in the various mechanic shops in my small town. I tried to remain with one mechanic or another, for continuity sake, but always find there is something haywire with the repairs done to it.
After one of the repairs jobs which included the replacement of the torques converter, rear main and transmission seals to include the O-rings, the car wouldn't shift from first gear. They kept it for 5 weeks during this repair. I had to rent a car for transportation during this period. I took the car back and they kept it for another three weeks.
When the car was returned to me it had a shuddering noise when in drive at idle. If I shift to neutral gear the noise and shuddering stops. I didn't take it back after that I was so discouraged about the change in the operation of my vehicle. I depend on these mechanics and just feel they are taking advantage. I have taken the car to several mechanics and cannot find anyone that can identify the problem. So, what is causing it the rock and roll of this car.
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So I have a 06 350 and I'm getting clunking from drive to reverse and now with drive too, I know my rear diff is on it's last days but I am wondering if that could cause the clunking and now my truck around 90km shakes likes crazy and same thing wana know if that's the diff. And if I was to fix diff myself would it not just be easier for me to just swap axles if I wanted to be cheap??
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I just got myself a 1993 ford explorer and the damn thing won't drive forward but it will drive in reverse. What could be the problem?? I've already drained the Transmission Fluid out & refilled it. My friend told me it is most likely the Neutral Safety Switch but I have no clue where it is located. I will be honest I have absolutely no clue about vehicles.
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I have a 2003 Volkswagen jetta, recently my reverse has went... Not sure the reason.
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Have a 20th with the 02m six speed ... Car won't go into any gear, except reverse ... Tried with the car off or on, clutch in and out with no luck ...
I took off the linkage from the engine bay and can only manually get the car to go into reverse ... Feels like it can't change "levels" ... Don't think it's clutch since because the car won't engage a gear even with the car off ...
Tried searching and no luck ... Thinking shift forks but hoping not since don't want to drop the transmission and it could be something else ...
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I'm just having a mis-alignment for my gearing reverse is replaced as first and I have no second gear not reverse only 1-3-4-5 gears are being entered what can I do to fix this...
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I have an 03 Jetta with an awp and 02j trans with 100,000 and I believe it's still the factory clutch. Trans fluid was flushed at 98000.
Problem : Going into first and reverse is really tough.
From 1st to 2nd and all other gears it is decently smooth not perfect though
The clutch pedal has a slight vibration in it when fully depressed
Once car gets warm it gets even worse to get into first and reverse
Does not pop out of gear or grind.
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So I installed coilovers a short while ago and now I need an alignment bad (obviously), but when I took it to get aligned, I was told my car is too low to drive up onto the lift , so I was wondering if I would be able to adjust my coils to a better height and then after the alignment just drop them back down a bit, it won't be too major of a drop back down but I just want to make sure I wouldn't be wasting my money. There is a place up the road that will do the alignment at my current height but for a pretty steep price considering how low my car is.
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