Golf IV / Jetta IV :: MK4 2003 - Engine Seems To Miss When Idling
Jun 25, 2015
I have a MK4 Golf 2003 1.9Tdi PD100 , the problem is that the engine seems to miss when idling , so the question really is how can I tell which cylinder is missing , it seems to do it every 10 seconds or so and the engine shakes slightly at the time as if it were missing ! .
I suppose it would be easier if the cylinder was missing all the time , then maybe I could crack open a line at a time ! , but can you do that on a PD engine !
View 1 Replies
Advertisement
I am having a problem with my 2006 Saab 9-3 Aero Combi Wagon w/130k miles. When idling, driving up hills, and accelerating to pass, the engine seems to miss multiple cylinders. I've had all spark plugs replaced within the last year, and all the cylinder coils were checked after bringing the car in for this problem (one was replaced). I took the car in yesterday to address this problem and the mechanic stated that he didn't know what to do. The check engine light is on, and the mechanic told me that the readout states that their might have been a problem with the gas cap, but they checked it out and it looked sound. Could this be a fuel pressure problem? spark plug wires?
View 5 Replies
I have a Golf GTI IV 1.8T Tiptronic and having this problem when the car is Idling i can feel the engine vibrations trough the seat and are anything but soft, especially if the trany is neutral and less if leave it in D.
I've changed the dog bone recently, wich was very bad, but the vibrations didn't smooth they remain the same but the driving improved, so the dog did replacement was good.
The next step would change the engine mounts, but they look goof and I don't want to start change parts just in case. Where I live car parts aren't cheap and some times new ones are just crap.
View 1 Replies
I'm running into a brick wall trying to get my GTI to start. This post is my last-ditch effort before just towing it to a shop.
A little over a week ago, the car just died while idling outside a buddy's house. Prior to dying, it had been having some sputtering starts and had been dying while driving as well (engine cut outs) for about a month, but it had always started right back up strong after cutting out.
First I tried replacing the crank position/engine speed sensor. No dice, still not starting. I had new spark plugs in the toolbox so I popped them in, still nothing. Then I realized that my spark plugs were totally dry when I changed them. I pulled the hose off the fuel rail, tried to start the car, no fuel. I had a more mechanically inclined friend come out with a multimeter and he checked my fuel pump and relay. He tells me the relay is good, but the pump must be fried because it's getting power but not pumping (I'm not certain of this as I didn't physically lay eyes on the multimeter when he told me this). The next day, I replaced the fuel pump and the fuel pump relay just to be safe. The car started! I thought I had it all figured out. I drove the car for two days and then, last night, it refused to start again. This morning, pissed off, I went back and was ready to tow it but it started right back up again on the first try. I drove it home, but then later when I went out to go grab a burrito it wouldn't start again. It cranks and cranks but just won't catch.
Pertinent information:
- I do have a CEL. Don't remember the exact code it's throwing but it's something like "Engine distributor circuit, no signal." The code cleared after installing a new fuel pump, but the CEL is back now. Could be a new code, though as I don't have a scanner.
- No other nasty dash indicators are on.
- With the new fuel pump, even when it was working normally, I never heard the usual "priming noise" you get when opening the driver's door. This is strange to me as I used to hear it all the time.
- The car cranks normally but I think it just isn't getting fuel, even with a brand new pump, plugs and relay.
- About a year and a half ago, the coil pack was replaced under the recall campaign.
After all these new parts, I'm thinking electrical. A ground short or something. But I've seen that for some people it was the ignition switch, or the IMMO, or the fuel injectors, etc....
View 2 Replies
When I'm idling and I rev the engine to exactly 1200 rpm i can feel an extra vibration coming from the engine. If i hold it at this rpm it will continue on. now this is not a violent vibration but more so of a buzz i can feel that travels to my steering wheel as well. what could it be ?
Another question is when i travel up my driveway and i hit the sloped curb at a angle i can hear a specific "clunk" sound coming from around the drivers foot well area what could this be? perhaps my axle going bad? I also heard it when I was reversing out of my parking space while turning.
I am new to this car and trying to make sure I'm doing everything i can to put it into good shape.
View 3 Replies
I just got the car back together after doing my chains, and I had a miss when it started. Now, the car runs fine only under light throttle but at idle and under heavier loads it has the miss. I drove it around my neighborhood and the check engine light started flashing, but stopped and went out as I was turning into my driveway. The only reason I ask about possible spark miss is because when I removed my plug wires, 2 of them left some of that rubber insulator on the plugs. Plus the car seems to have pretty decent power despite the misfire.
View 1 Replies
So I had a hose come apart that is located under the intake manifold on my 1.8t. It's some type of air hose because I can hear and feel the air coming out when the car is running, and it's also making my car run rough and miss, mostly at idle.
View 6 Replies
99 2.0 jetta. Getting oil on crank position sensor making it miss. Is it the rear main seal? Only reason I can think to have oil around the flywheel... How hard is a rear main seal to change out....
View 2 Replies
I have a 2004 Cadillac it started to miss when your idling, a check engine light when on and it was #5 plug not firing so I changed the plugs in front 4 of them and also bought a coil pack and replaced that, but it still misses. What else can I check before thinking its a sticky Valve or internal engine problems.
View 6 Replies
I have a 2005 5.4 F-150. First off it came to me on a rollback because the owner tried to replace his plugs after he noticed it missing and of course broke one off. So after I extracted the plug from #8 cylinder and installed a new plug I cranked the truck and it was idling very rough and had a terrible miss around 1200rpm. I pulled the codes and got several misfire codes and ignition coil faults on #5,6 and 7 cylinder. Popped in 3 known good coils in these 3 cylinders with no difference.
On Mode 6 on my diagnostic software you could watch the misfire count steadily increase on #7 and every now and then there would be a single misfire on #5 and 6. It also had several codes for O2 sensors biased, stuck rich on that bank. Well since it had a brand new plug and coil, I popped an injector in #7 and havent had a single misfire on it since and it also started idling alot better and all the O2 codes went away. The problem I am having now is #5, 6 and now 8 will randomly misfire, sometimes build up a steady count on one of them, sometimes just skip around between them.
The truck has brand new plugs in all 8 and new coils on this bank also. The truck has 115,000 on it and does have some cam phaser noise on the bank causing the problem, but its not too terribly bad, I have heard alot worse. My problem is something on that bank only as the passenger side bank is fine. I am wanting to say cam phaser now since this is the side with the noise. I have changed them before but have just experienced the noise, never one running like this because of it. Possibly jumped time a little?
View 14 Replies
We have a 2001 Jetta 2.0L with 170000 miles. The AC had been getting weaker, but now it only works when the car is idling. Which seems really odd???
Started car, after being parked for a while, and the temp was 73F at the dash vent. I figured it would get colder going down the road, but it got up to 90F at the vent. Returned home and let the car idle for a while and the dash temp went down to 80F. Went for another drive and it immediately raised to 90F.
The compressor clutch was engaged and spinning, but the larger metal line at the firewall didn't seem very cold. The smaller line was warm as expected. I added some R134a, but no change at the lines or in the car. We have had issues with the blend flapper and replaced the broken plastic part. You can hear the flapper slap when you rotate the dial from hot to cool, so it seems like it's working.
Could it be the compressor? I think it was only generating 150psi on the high pressure side during idle, but it would go up to 200-225psi when I revved the motor.
Replaced the valve body solenoids, increased pressure to clutch packs 8 clicks, added pentosin, cleared engine light, and the tranny is working perfectly.
View 5 Replies
My gf's 04 gti 1.8t 5spd is having idling issues. Here's the rundown, at idle it sits at 800 rpm but when given a rev it then becomes erratic and fluctuates between 500-1100 rpm. When throttled again lightly it returns to normal 800 rpm idle. The car will try to stall a little bit. Now for the codes and lights. The lights are the traction control light and the check engine light. The codes are p0102 (MAF) and p2181 (coolant system performance). I have recently had a misfire which I took care of with 4 new coil packs. I kept the 3 good ones I took out. I have to change the plugs still but don't think it's an issue. Has new clutch and sits at 148,852 miles.
View 5 Replies
Every time my car is idling I get this weird fluctuation of rpm. What it might be. [URL] .....
View 7 Replies
But I have a mk4 gti 1.8t awp and recently it's been going downhill. Right now my only mods are a fmic, Cai, and a 3 in catless dp to a 2.5 in straight pipe. My car recently starting idling very rough and would practically die, the lights would also dim. While casting the idle was very rough too. Then yesterday my car started idling even worse and dying multiple times, plus my turbo stopped boosting and making what I presume to be the "death whine".
I replaced my spark plugs a few days ago and I checked my timing belt and it looked fine. I couldn't find any vacuum leaks either so I'm not sure what would be causing the rough idle? My valve cover gasket leaks and makes my sparks plugs covered in oil but I don't know if that could cause the rough idle. I unplugged my maf and ran it and there was no improvement.
View 4 Replies
Engine will start and run but will miss in a pull and die sometimes but will start back, we hooked it to a scanner and it said (intake wiring) it wasn't a dealer hook up just a gas station garage, we have already done plugs and wires.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2004 Jetta w/ the 2.0 engine, auto transmission. Lately it has developed a very gassy smell when idling. Could be all the time I guess, but I only ever notice it when idling. It seems more noticeable on the passenger side of the car, or maybe my wife just has a better sense of smell than I do since she noticed it before I did.
The car seems to run fine, about the same as it always has. The idle is slightly rough, but it has been like that ever since I got the car. I got it with about 110,000 miles on it and had the timing belt and water pump replaced as soon as I got it. Mileage now is about 130,000. No info on the maintenance history of the car, but when I had the timing belt changed they said it looked like it was probably the original one.
The check engine light has never come on. I think I'm due for some new spark plugs so I was going to be replacing them soon anyways. Not sure what to check out here that might be causing this?
View 3 Replies
So I recently swapped my 2.8l 12v vr6 for the same engine because mine blew up, everything went good and the car runs great but there is a faint kind of rattling sound coming from the top of my motor, when its idling it will be a constant faint rattle. It gets worse as i accelerate between 3 to 4.5 rpms but then stops making the noise when i really start cooking so Idk if I just can't hear it or what. I've tried looking it up but i can't seem to find a video that has the same problems as my car. My father told me it could be my rockers or valves and others have told me it could be my timing chain or guides. I would love to just take it to vw to get it diagnosed but I don't have the money. I will try and upload a video of the sound ....
View 7 Replies
My car is idling at 1000 rpm for a few minutes when I start it, why? Just started a few days ago...
View 3 Replies
I have a new to me 98 F250LD with the 4.6/4R70W. I have maintained this truck fro my FIL as best as I could get him to spend (neglected). Filter and fluid replace with Mercon VI last year due to 2-3 shift slip.
He gave me the truck after it would not climb a hill, just hit stall speed and would not move up a steep hill, as I understand it. I put Seafoam trans tune in hoping it would free up sticky solenoids or valves in the VB.
I finally got it registered in my name and drove it to work and back today. After about 25 miles highway driving it shudders pretty bad trying to climb a hill at low speed.
It seems to me that at this low speed, torque converter lockup should not even be a possibility. I do not have COP, but rather a single coil pack. I replaced the wires and plugs for Dad a few years ago, but some shady shop later told him that I didn't replace the left rear (to make an upsale I suppose). Not sure what they may have done in there.
I have scanned with my ELM 327 and Droid using Torque Pro, and the only Fault is EGR flow.
View 12 Replies
I own a 2003 Jetta that is standard. I was driving to school today and the engine just cut off. It was acting as if I had stalled out but it was in neutral and the clutch was all the way down. I've also had problems with my car not wanting to start. If I press on the gas once or twice that usually fixes that problem.
View 5 Replies
I have a 2003 Jetta GLS 1.8 5Speed. With issues.
The problem that I first had (and have always had since): While driving under 30mph but at random times, my ASR / ESP light and engine light will come on and my car will lurch and lose power (I can't go above 20mp at that point this is the limp mode that traction control puts you in I think). I have to pull over and restart my car. And then the ASR / ESP light is gone and the engine light stays on for a day or so. After restarting my car everything seems to function fine.
My car would also chug a bit if I didn't let it warm up in the morning it acted as though it would die. After sitting for a minute it would be fine.
My mechanic initially thought there might be an air flow issue. He found a hose that was cracked at the end but said I didn't really need to replace it. He taped it up and used a clamp to keep in place. I have no (ok little) doubt that it is air tight.
When the problem continued he thought it might be my MAF sensor. He had a used one and replaced mine with it. It seemed to work, I didn't have the problem again for some time. But it eventually came back.
Also, I started to find that when I came to a stop light my car would idle roughly. If I put the car in park it was perfectly fine. Later, I had an even more serious problem. My car needed to warm up for about 10 minutes before it would shift out first. After plenty of internet searches on sites like this, everything pointed to the N92 solenoid. I purchased all 9 solenoids online and had someone replace them. That seems to have fixed my shifting out of first problem.
I still had the ASR / ESP issue though. So I bought a new MAF and replaced that myself (very easy). I was positive that would be then end of my problems. But nope no change.
Recently I also find that if I slow down quickly, sometimes my car just strait up dies. After restarting all is well.
So if this isn't a MAF issue, what are the other likely culprits? Vacuum leak somewhere? How much would you expect to pay to have that diagnosed (I think they have machines that can test everything and locate points of failure)? Air-flow meter? Transmission control unit? I have heard that they are relatively cheap to replace Engine control unit?
View 3 Replies
