Golf IV / Jetta IV :: MFA And Climatronic Panel Don't Give Accurate Reading
Jun 12, 2014
My display on the MFA and Climatronic panel is really wrong (-44C now). I was taking a look at the sensor in the front left grille but the only thing that's changing into the readings with my Vag-Com is the outside temperature sensor but not the displayed temperature.
I didn't find any other sensor on my car. Nothing into the rain tray...
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The 19.5" wheels are not an option on the 2013 F-450, unless you order a Chassis Cab. I'm certain many have made this change. My question is can the dealership make the necessary changes so the speedometer correctly measures the vehicle speed?
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My speedometer reads accurate only till around 45 mph. The needle begins to float around gently, and the faster I go, the more discrepancy it reads. It may hang a while, floating around 60 and the speedometer app on my phone says I'm going 74.
The speed sensors were replaced for another issue a year and a half ago. The dealership initially wanted me to put a new transmission in it for $3800 after they said the trans was slipping past 45. Then they said something instead about a valve plate (could be wrong vernacular) for $1000 instead of an entire transmission.
When I finally told them that my cruise control is completely erratic, trying to track the needle movements with upshifts and downshifts, they said it's $200 in parts for the drive gears and that they were made with plastic that can wear out.
So I said I would sit on it, since the ideas about the issue seem to vary greatly, and my father set me up to go to a transmission shop to have the car checked out. They had it for two days and changed the fluid out but we can't fix your speedometer issue... take it to the speedometer shop, but btw we think your transmission is fine.
Now, do I take it back to the dealer for the drive gears, or do I take it to another specialist? I have seen people say all it needed were the drive gears replaced and a new sensor. My odometer seems to still be working. There is no issue with my gas gauge.
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The outside temp reading in my GX is not accurate, it's showing 70-75 when its 91 outside. What do I need to do? Just replace this sensor? [URL] .....
I'm thinking the ACDELCO at the bottom of list?
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I've been letting my wife drive the 2007 Prius since I've been cycling in to work. I got in the car last night and thought "Wow, almost a full tank". I then realized that only 1 pip was missing for 208 miles! The MFD was reading average mpg around 43, so this was bizarre. Usually the first pip drops around 110-120 miles.
By the time we got back home, I was around 220+ and 2 pips were gone. This is usually when half the pips are gone. Is this something I should be concerned about? Should I reset the gauge?
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I've looked all over online about this and spent hours tinkering with it but I can't seem to figure it out. I have an '01 gti glx with the lcd climatronic. fully functional but none of the backlights work for the buttons or the screen and I'm wondering what at all it could be... Not a hugely pressing issue, just annoying trying to figure out which button is which at night..
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I can't get an accurate reading on my dipstick of my '08 RX 350. I just tried after it sat all night and the oil is over the full marks. I just had the oil changed at Lexus and they used my 6 quarts of Mobil 1 and I told them not top it off to 6.5 quarts because I wanted to.
The tech said he did not add more than what I gave him. I just called Lexus and they said, yes it is difficult to get an accurate reading for some reason. He said check when the oil is warm and has sat for 5 minutes. Any others have trouble reading the oil dipstick accurately?
'08 RX 350 Flint mica/ blk 84,000 miles
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I recently bought this golf and well gotta say very happy with it, W reg so 2000 model and it the 1.9 TDI SE variant, 29,000 miles and only one owner from new. But like many before me I have a air con issue.
So here's what I have looked at. Done the climatronic test with two error codes
04B6 Standing Time Signal
0318 Air Conditioner Pressure Switch
The blower works inside etc, but only blows warm air. I can hear the engine rev's change when I push the Econ button. So car is pretty mint but 15 years old, where should I start looking.
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The gas gauge on my 2008 does not seem accurate. I had three bars left the other day and when I filled up it took 6.5 gallons. Normally with three bars it only takes 5.5 gallons. Also, it stays on "full" (all bars) a long time.
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I have a 2000 jetta with a 12v and it will cough and give a shake. Its not throwing a misfire code. The only thing I can think of is it being the intake shift rod.
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I have a 2003 Excursion 6.0. I didn't post this in the 6.0 section because it may not be just a 6.0 issue. (See what I get) On cold starts, anything under 150 degree water temp reading on the SGII. I get a CHECK GAGE light on accompanied by the check engine light. No codes read on the SGII pending or stored. Just some of the time I get a water in fuel light too. This tends to go out fairly soon after driving. (Even after I just drain the fuel pump it still happens.) other issues that accompany the lights are as follows.
The trans temp does not give a reading to the dash. The oil temp does not give a reading the dash. Both show proper temp on the SGII. When in reverse the back up alarm beeps as if something is behind me. And the auto door locks will not activate after 10 mph. The tach also will not show a reading in the dash. SGII shows the numbers. Now the kicker, this ALL gets resolved the instant the water temp hits 150 degrees. The only lingering issue is the that the tach will surge or drop every now and then. The tow/haul light does not come on when this is going on. I've checked the battery terminals all are clean. Both batteries are brand new.
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5.8L C6 .... I can't get a good reading on my transmission fluid level. When the truck is cold the level is well above (2") the checkered area.
When the truck is hot, I can't read the dipstick. It either has a little bit of oil well above the checkered area, or there isn't enough in the transmission to register.
How to get an accurate reading?
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Okay, here's the car
AWP 1.8t mk4 GTI.
- stock DP
- Forge 007 splitter adjusted 25 clicks
- Swiss cheese stock intake with k&N high flow
- APR stage 1 93 tune.
My boost gauge is currently reading peak of about 15-16 psi. I replaces some vacuum hoses that appeared to be worn, and to no avail. I have no CEL, and no codes thrown at all. This sound like a boost leak.
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I've got a 2001 Volkswagen Jetta 1.8T Wolfsburg Edition.
Recently the temp gauge sits at 260* as soon as the car starts, but it's not actually overheating. Car runs/drives fine and will do so for many, many miles. Even in stop and go traffic. Was told the thermostat was replaced, but that didn't fix the issue although it doesn't sound like a thermostat issue since the car isn't actually overheating. Coolant is topped off as well.
I am thinking it's a bad sensor. Where is it located on this car?
Car is a friends and she said she took it to a shop to have the coolant checked and they were also the ones who did the thermostat.
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This has bothered me a while. I turn the instrument lights to max brightness, but they are very dim. I can see them, but they are all very dim.
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I have this rattling noise. i have gotten under the car, and resecured the heat shield its starting to rust around the mounting points but that's not the issue, on the driver side near one of the large rubber plugs i hit around it with a hammer and there is something inside of it that is rattling starts around 1900rpm and stops around 2500 rpm how do I get in there to get the damn thing out? Its not the cat nor the exhaust etc.
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Recently I made a corrosion claim about some rust forming on my jetta. Long story short VWOA accepted to replace my passenger side fender and trunk, but refused to replace my passenger side rocker panel. Once all the warranty work is taken care of I would like to treat the rocker panel rust the best way possible. I'm not looking to spend hundreds of dollars on this procedure, but I don't want there to be a hole in my car by next winter.
Personally I'm thinking of sanding it all down, treating the rust, applying some paint to it, and then trying to protect the area a little more by investing in OEM side skirts.
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So I know these posts a a dime a dozen but unlike most i know what did to cause the lights to go out.
I unplugged the dimmer switch harness and headlight switch harness to clean the air vents. When i plugged everything back in, none of the red or blue backlighting turns on when i turn the headlight switch. The instrument cluster and all the trim remains dark.
At first my turn signals were not working but they have begun working again. headlights and break lights all work. and my interior dome lights work.
I checked every fuse i could think of that would relate to the interior lighting and everything looks fine there. is there something else i can check?
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Whenever I hit auto on the climatronic after the car has been off it always defaults to 72 degrees. I'm in South Florida, and I realize it's a little thing, but it'd be great if I could make it default to low right off the bat. Is this something Vag-com could be used to alter? Tried searching for this but couldn't find anything directly related.
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On start up, on the hot day, A/C takes 4-5 minutes of driving before starting to cool. Not much cold air coming out once it get's going to.... IF Climatronic is switched OFF, then as you drive you can feel hot air coming out from vents and actually fogging up windscreen on the rainy day.
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Any tips and tricks on cleaning this? Just did an entire wash clay compound with orbital and a wax. Car looks great for a 12 year old but This area is a bit tricky clay gets stuck in the pores and nothing seems to clean it well. Id like to clay it but its not working well.
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