Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Loud Clang When Pulling Out Of Parking Lot - Drive Shaft Popped Out
Apr 12, 2015
So I was pulling out of the parking lot at work in first gear going about 10mph when I heard a loud clang and lost power to the wheels, I just had the car towed home and its dark out so i haven't gotten a chance to really take a good look.
My question is, how did this happen? the car is lowered on coils. I also Installed a B&M short shiftier about 3 weeks ago, i doubt it but could that have anything to do with this?
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When I Let Off The Gas There's A loud Rattle Coming From The Engine Bay Area. It Stops When I press The Gas Again, When I Brake And When I Turn The Wheel.
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Had the common problem of ARB rubbing the drive shaft after I lowered an extra 15mm - It didn't rub before I went this extra 15mm. I got adjustable drop links on and they also didn't work. I basically told the garage to sort it out and they put standard drop links back on (not genuine) and also new wishbones because I needed them. Got my car back and the rubbing was even worse. So I raised it back up the 15mm, to where it was before the rubbing started, yet it's still rubbing like crazy. I'm wondering if the new wishbones may be causing this because of new bushings or something and it all being tighter. And also what am I supposed to do? I shouldn't have to buy a whiteline ARB because it wasn't rubbing at this ride height before the wishbones and drop links were changed.
To summarize:
>Lowered car extra 15mm, rubbing started
>Drop links and wishbones changed, rubbing is worse
>Raised back to the point where rubbing started and still rubbing just as badly.
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Found some cracks in the outside of my driveshaft. 2002 Jetta 1.8T 5-Speed Manual.
Part number: 1J0 407 271 GJ
I'm guessing it's just rust/age. Honestly, I don't even know if this need to be replaced. CV boots are in perfect condition, now cracks or leaks whatsoever.
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I've got a 2005 Avalanche (basically, a Silverado) which has suddenly developed a possible illness. Whenever I start the truck and begin moving (forward or reverse), I hear one (and only one) loud squeak that seems to be coming from the general area of the torque converter or drive shaft (but who knows exactly). The squeak doesn't happen immediately upon moving but always happens within the first 20-30 feet of movement and then no more. If I put the truck in park, re-engage the automatic transmission and start moving, I cannot recreate the sound.
However, if I turn off the engine altogether, restart the truck and begin moving, it happens again exactly as before. It happens every time the vehicle has been restarted, regardless of whether the engine is hot or cold. Once it's happened, I can drive hundreds of miles and it won't happen again until I turn off the engine and restart it. Further, I've determined recently that if I start the truck on a hill and let it roll while in neutral and without a foot on the brake, the squeak still happens. Therefore, it's not dependent upon the transmission being in gear or the brakes being applied!
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1 year ago bought a 2003 Ford Ranger 5-speed manual. For last two months I occasionally get a loud clang from the rear, with short locking of rear wheels and sudden lunge when accelerating from stop. I can also get occasional clang when cruising down city streets in fourth gear. Tonight when accelerating from stop wheels locked and no sudden kick in and lunge forward. Finally got truck to go and crawled home. I've taken the truck into my mechanic twice, but of course it performs perfectly normal when they drive it. And no, it isn't just the way I drive. It's an occasional problem but getting more serious.
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so my r32 recently started making a nasty popping noise. the sound seems to either be coming from something in the rear end or drive shaft. not sure why it happened. i went on a 2 hour trip. got there parked it. aired it down (bags) but then when i came back and when to drive it again. it all of a sudden it started making a horrible popping noise. i thought it was the front wheel bearing going out since i knew it need to be replaced but i did that today and its still making the noise.
The noise sound just like a RWD car with a welded diff when it turns. kinda has that locked rear end hop popping noise. i lifted the whole car off the ground and put it in first to let the tires spin in the air but of course theres no weight on them so it doesn't make any noise. i'm really stumped on what it could be. im going to take the driveshaft off and see if it still dose it. then i know its for sure in the rear end. What it could be?
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Every day I make a u-turn around the median in order to get to our driveway...which means I turn the steering wheel all the way to the left. As I turn the wheel and drive, there is a clannnngKK sound on the driver's side from somewhere near the front. I wondered if there is something getting hung up/caught "under there" but have no real working knowledge (obviously) of my truck's anatomy. It only makes this noise when I make this u turn. I've not heard it any other time.
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Car has been making da da da da da noise from the rear for the past week or 2. The noise is consistent with the wheel speed and I can heard it clearly when I am next to barrier or a truck or something the sound will pounce off it. I drop the car off, later they told me the drive shaft is vibrating a lot and it might go.
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So I just had my transmission replaced because my cv axle popped loose and tore a hole right into my old one spilling all the tranny oil all over the road. I was able to find another used one and then bolt it up and now I have a small issue. Its been leaking a little bit of tranny oil through the one piece on the bottom that has two bolts on it and a VW logo on it.
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I just installed my brand new coil overs. I went to drop the car from the jack and as it lowered I noticed my strut mount fully popped out of the strut mount housing. I can't even close my hood. Did I do something wrong?
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Any good way of getting the spline shaft out of the hub? I got the big axle nut off ok.
Normally the CV then just pulls out (inside unbolted, lower control arms (3 bolts) out). This one not moving if air chisel, 5lb sledge hammer.
NEVER had a rusted one (90% of my cars are Audi, not VW).
Do I have to remove the entire hub (including take the strut out) and put on hydraulic press?
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I have a 1999 Ford F250 super duty 4wheel drive, lifted (really a leveling kit but had to lift rear to compensate), 5.4l. Im having a problem with my front shaft turning while in 2 wheel drive. Hubs aren't locked and its in 2 wheel not 4. I've taken hubs off and the bearing spins free soo I know its in auto. Why is the drive shaft still turning???????
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I just finished my first MK4 steering rack replacement (don't work on too many VWs), and when I placed the steering shaft from the column onto the shaft from the rack and bolted it down, there was still some clearance (see photo). I was able to get the bolt tightened down ok, but the clearance is bothering me.
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I am in the middle of replacing the timing chains on my 1998 4.0L SOHC 4x4 Explorer. I was going to ignore the balance shaft chain but a piece of the broken jackshaft chain tensioner broke the balance shaft chain tensioner too. Now I have to pull the upper pan/ladder frame.
Of course, the manual says I have to pull the motor to remove the upper pan/ladder frame on a 4x4 but I have heard there may be a way around this. How to avoid pulling the motor and still be able to replace the balance shaft chain tensioner?
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I have a 2007 jetta 2.5. I installed some Halo headlights on the car. How can i drive the car with only the halo lights on as these cars have daytime running lights and no option to just turn on parking lights. or is there a way to have the halos run all the time instead of the headlights.
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Recently I've noticed that every time when shifting from park to drive and occasionally from reverse to drive in my 05 Golf GLS, I would have to remain off the gas for 3-4 seconds otherwise the car would jerk forward. If I press on the gas ever so slightly, the rpm would go up to around 1000 then jerk. Why this is happening?
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I'm trying to get to the manual transmission input shaft seal on my 01 GTI w/12V VR6. I've removed the 3 bolts surrounding the input shaft but the metal shroud underneath the 3 bolts seems to be adhered tightly in place. You can see the 3 bolt holes and metal shroud in this photo: [URL]
Am I on the right track in trying to remove that shroud? If so, how do I loosen it?
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I just had an alignment done and the steering wheel is turned counter clockwise a little. I know very little about alignment. I know the terminology and what it means and i heard the the rear camber and toe isn't adjustable on mk4s. I did lower my car,only about one inch though.
Here is the sheet that came with the alignment:
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2K 1.8T Golf. Lowered on Koni struts and neuspeed street (red) springs last year. Rear axel bushing done soon after. Replaced front and rear strut mounts and bearings at the time of struts and springs. Rack died on me in the fall so I had it replaced along with newer control arms and upgraded bushings. Aligned right after the rack was installed and ran like an arrow until last weekend. Now it pull to right, more as I speed up. I also noticed that when I turn left, the steering is much stiffer then steering left (full turns and mild turns).
PS fluid is still full. My ball joints are about 3 years old so I'm leaning towards that direction. Especially after this past winter and the never ending pot holes in Detroit. The shop used moogs and were regularly greased as they had zerk fittings. I think I hear some clunking upfront but I'm unclear as my old GHL Muffler weld finally gave out and is having by a hockey lace and it is rattling every time I accelerate or hit a bump. I'm going to jack it up this weekend to do some exhaust work so I'll give it a good once over and shake down what I can.
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So the other day my wife was pulling out of a parking lot when the car shut off. She then restarted it and sat in the parking lot for a little till she then drove back home.
I have been sick so haven't had much time to figure out whats going on with it. It's not the battery idle problem; I've dealt with that before. So far I have tested the battery and max reading I got was 13 volts.
I'll be uploading a video today to show whats going on with it. [URL] .....
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