Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Loud Scream Occasionally After Start Up
Jan 15, 2008
I've searched the other "screaming" problems but they don't seem to fit, they're either when starting and/or cold, or when flooring it.
My car screams occasionally after I start it. Get in, crank car, let go of key, good beat of pause, and then SCREAM! It's fairly loud. Doesn't do it every time, does it whether hot or cold. Once or twice it screamed again after I had backed up and stopped (no it's not the brakes, they do squeal but it's a different sound).
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My jetta started making a loud screeching noise on initial start up, it only last a split second and sometimes it doesn't do it, I read it maybe my bushings need greased, but I didn't know if maybe it was something to do with my flywheel bc with my window down and at idle I can hear a faint tapping noise, I push the clutch in the noise goes away, car starts up fine with no hesitation and also shifts smooth...
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Car was overheating for a long time. Went to start it and wouldn't start. Its been sitting for a while so I replaced the battery and now when the battery is connected its making a loud humming noise. And still no start. It turns over and sounds like its trying to start just won't start.
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I am having an issue with my 2002 GTI 1.8T. I have tried searching for an answer to this, and found a couple things saying maybe it could be the secondary air pump but wanted to get more opinions before I go shell out money to chase this problem.
When I start up the car in the morning after having it sit overnight, the car does the normal thing where it increases rpm's to about 1100 to warm it up. During this a loud "whistling" noise can be heard. Once the car is warmed up a little bit, the rpm's decline to about 900, and the whistling sound goes away. When this happens though it almost sounds as if a valve or something is closing causing the noise to go away.
Also, I am unsure if this is related to this, sometimes when I am driving, I will be accelerating and the car seems to stop accelerating as strong as it was, boost goes down from around 8 or 9 psi to about 4 and I seem to lose power as if I had let off the gas some. When I put my foot further down the car accelerates harder again and boost goes back up.
I have already changed spark plugs, cleaned MAF sensor, and run the 3m 3 part engine cleaning kit through it.
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I'm not sure if this qualifies for a "cold start" but my 1.8T sounds imperfect when I start it for the first time of the day. It'll rev around 1200 RPM, instead of the normal 800RPM idle if I start it after it had recently been turned off for a short period.
It sounds almost like my old car that had an exhaust leak, but not as obnoxious. When it settles back down to 800RPM it really purrs and sounds great. Is this normal?
2003 Wolfsburg Jetta 1.8T, not sure if I wrote that in my profile yet. 41k miles and recently serviced for 40k milage. Has sounded this way before and after the service.
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04 Jetta GLI 1.8T... Just picked this girl up last week and I love it. Super smooth ride and shifts cleaner than any car I've driven and owned.
Originally wanted a TDI, but I couldn't resist this deal that fell in up my lap. Occasionally the EPC light comes on and goes away. Working on diagnosing it in the mean time...
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While I'm in the engine troubleshooting the AC system, I figured I may as well get into a few other issues I've noticed.
I have a stock 1.8T and my turbo feels like it's surging occasionally. A few months ago my diverter valve started making the "blow off sound" when I shifted (manual transmission).
Is it possible for a faulty diverter valve to dump the boost overboard and cause the turbo, and engine hp, to surge? It almost feels like I let my foot off the gas for a second or two (i.e., engine power is very peaky).
A second thing that comes to mind is a clogged fuel filter. I know VW does not recommend ever changing it so it's never been done. Is this a possibility as well?
Air filter is clean, by the way. There's a K&N washable one in the stock air box and I can see daylight through it so it's not too dirty.
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The cruise worked perfect before I lowered the car and now it works occasionally.. It was on most of the 10 hour drive to this part of Florida and around town it's worked but has started to act up a bit again now.. Sometimes the cruise light will flash and then won't work but other times it's fine any input? The car is an otherwise stock AWP at 107k miles..
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My car is stored outside rather than in a garage in winter. I do notice bogging or "gargled" acceleration maybe 4/10 on occasional days and sometimes the engine light will come once this happens and then other times it doesn't come on when it occurs. Engine light usually comes on rarely but when it does, it's when the bogging is really bad.
Question is what would be the most cost effective way to solve or find out what the issue is? And/ or, what would you think the underlying issue would be for starters? Also, does my year car have a MAF sensor? BTW the cabin filter and air filter were just changed a few months ago but unsure if this would include the shop cleaning the MAF if I do in fact have one.
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So I just noticed now that my car is popping slightly at idle occasionally...It doesn't do it all the time and the idle is kinda lumpy but always holds at 800-900. Sometimes it drops a bit lower.
Also when starting it up in the morning, or when the engine is cold it doesnt rev up to 1500rpms it just starts and immediately drops to 800-900??
When I press on the gas and keep the pedal at one spot, say 2000rpms, it slowly drops down to 1500??
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Got a 2001 Jetta 2L automatic 200k miles with gremlins. possibly multiple unrelated problems. First problem that presented is that the transmission will occasionally not shift into 4th gear. I discovered that if I stop the engine, then restart it, it will again return to normal operation, hence the thought that it is electrical. After a year or so of this, second problem pops up: the engine will die while the car is driving, or some times idling at a light. I've also noticed that the interior lights flicker somewhat in intensity when on and the engine is operating, so there could definitely be a grounding issue somewhere. I have heard that the ECU/ECM connectors could become corroded, but haven't yet dug into it to look. Any guesses as to where to begin?
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MkIV 2.0 ... My 4th cylinder will occasionally misfire if I release the clutch at too high of a rev. It is intermittent but happens if I do a burn out or something. How to fix this other then stop doing burn outs and such.
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2002 1.8t Jetta Wagon with the automatic transmission. They've had it for about a week now and we've been trying to iron a few problems out. Mostly cosmetic until the last couple days.
The coil pack harness is trash. I bypassed a couple of the extreme cracked wires in attempt to keep it going until the new one comes in hopefully at the end of this week. We put new plugs in but only afterward did we find out that NGK or VW is the way to go. We put autolite iridiums in.
New fuel filter, however, the line connecting the tank to the filter will not click into place completely. We are able to start/drive the car without the line popping off from the pressure, but you just have to tug on it with your hand to get it off, no need to depress the clip.
The car seems to run better cold. Once it is warmed up and you've been driving around town for 10-15 minutes is when the shuddering starts. It ONLY dies when in Drive or Reverse while at a complete stop. The idle drops down to 400 rpm or so, you can't rev the motor/drive. Sometimes it will come back up to normal and you can go, sometimes it will go back and forth but you can't get any power to the wheels. Sometimes it will drop the RPMs and shudder at 400 for a couple seconds then just die. It always starts right up without hesitation. In park/neutral the idle is still slightly erratic, occasionally bumping up to around 1300 rpms for a second or two then back to around 900 or so.
When we bought the car, we test drove it and it was fine. Of course that is how it works out. They drove the car for about a week. In that time, it shuddered and died once, and would occasionally shudder at a stop light but there was no issue driving it or loss of power when accelerating.
What I'm wondering is if we should go ahead and order the R8 coil pack and spark plug kit from HSTuning. I'm hoping that the harness fixes the issue, but if it could be cheap spark plugs or a coil pack going out, I'd like to get it all done at once. My main concern is the possibility that it could be the transmission. The symptoms feel like loss of power, not slipping, but still, I'm worried that maybe it could be the issue.
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Got a Vr6 a couple weeks ago and recently the gauge has been acting strange. Few days ago the gauge went from normal to showing completely empty and did that for a couple days (gauge would just display normal and occasionally just drop straight to empty and sit there until restart) but yesterday it started just sitting on full. Even when restarted just goes to full. I assume its the sender unit ....
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My 2003 Jetta GLI was making a terrible grinding/knocking noise when i would turn and occasionally make this "Bong" sound especially when reversing. I took it to my local shop and they say my spring in the front left is "either broken or unattached" and that i need spings/struts. I have like 150k miles on this car so the timing is probably right. So my question is, how much should they charge for this? Also, what should i have them order and install? Im not trying to lower or anything like that, OEM or a slight upgrade is what im looking for....
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Occasionally I have to turn over my MK6 twice to start. Happens when car is warm or cold. why? I have APR stage one, but hard starting happened before and after install. Have kessy, not sure if that contributes to the problem....
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I have a 2003 VW Jetta GLS 5 sp. Manual with the 2.0 Naturally aspirated 4 cyl engine. The car has approximately 147,000 miles. My MIL light has been on for some time now. I recently got my local mechanic to run diagnostics on it and he reported two error codes (411 and 420). To my understanding, 420 is due to the imminent failure of a catalytic converter, an issue which I have addressed by replacing Plugs, wires, distributor, and cat.
My real question is, I would like to know if a mysterious Vacuuming sound that comes from my car whenever I start it cold in the morning and persists for about 25 seconds, and then comes on and off intermittently, is related to the 411 code. My local mechanic told me that there is some kind of exhaust recirculation motor that may be going bad.
I love my VW and want to keep it running properly rather than give it up, so long as there is no serious problem that is impractical to fix.
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I have a 2001 Santa Fe 2.7l automatic. I recently changed out the automatic transmission (transaxle) as the old one had died. Now the starter motor plunger is not disengaging quick enough on start up and a screaming noise is made as flywheel turns as engine first turns over. I have just put a new starter motor in with exactly the same (screaming) result. The flywheel looks to be in reasonable condition as I inspected it when being put in, no teeth mangled and all teeth there. The transmission replacement was from a wrecked vehicle, I was told from same model vehicle but maybe a 2003 Santa Fe.
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Recently I've noticed that every time when shifting from park to drive and occasionally from reverse to drive in my 05 Golf GLS, I would have to remain off the gas for 3-4 seconds otherwise the car would jerk forward. If I press on the gas ever so slightly, the rpm would go up to around 1000 then jerk. Why this is happening?
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I just replaced my my k03s with another one with only 20k on it. After I did this, I noticed a loud screech sound when in WOT. The screech lasts a little bit after i left off the gas when revving in neutral. I've been doing research on here, and I've read that it could be a boost leak somewhere or even the turbo dying. The shaft play is minimal though.
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So I replaced my rear coilovers on my gli assuming the driver side was broken because when over bumps it would make a loud banging sound as if it was bottoming out but after replacing them i have the same problem.
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