Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Light Vibration Starts At 85 - 90 Mph And Stays Relatively Constant Above That
Sep 14, 2016
I have this annoying vibration that starts at 85-90 mph and stays relatively constant above that, but doesn't get super intense or feel like the car is going to fall apart. Its a light vibration that I can feel at 9 and 3 on the steering wheel.
Background: So about 6 months ago I realized my CV boot was torn. I tried to replace CV joint, but they sent wrong joint(Meyle) so we ended up trying to force it onto the CV shaft for like an hour before giving up. I remember one of my BMW Technician buddies literally smashing the joint onto the shaft with a plastic mallet but it just wouldn't go over the circlip.
We ended up just replacing the boot and putting the old CV joint back on, but we didn't have any extra grease to put in it because we had already put it into the new joint that wouldn't fit. Since then I've basically tried everything I can think of, including:
-Balanced and Road Forced
-Laser Alignment
-Replaced all 4 tires
-Fixed bent rims
-Refreshed suspension/steering:
-All new F+R LCA bushings
-New inner/outer tie rods
-New ball joints
-New sway bar bushings
-New strut top mounts
So what the hell is keeping her from being smooth as butter over 90? Did we screw up the shaft by beating on it? Or is it just vibrating from the lack of grease/damage from torn boot? Was I supposed to align the shaft when putting it back on or something?
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I have a 2000 Jetta with the 2.0 automatic and just like the title states, I have recently developed a engine vibration that is felt at all times. It is much worse when the car is in gear. I only seem to feel it in the gas and brake pedals. It does not seem to depend on speed nor does it only occur at certain rpms. It feels like someone zip tied a vibrating back messager to my pedals. I want to find out what it is because on long commutes my foot begins to feel like its falling asleep. I can visually see the engine vibrating with the car in gear. I am leaning towards motor mounts.
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I own a 2004.5 PG GLI. The vibration starts at 55mph and gets worse from there. 75mph and you can hardly hold onto the steering wheel.
Some history, I bought the car in feb of 2013. When I got the car it drove fine. It was super low so I raised it a bit. The trans had the input shaft bearing issue so I got a reman trans, while I was there I put a new clutch and flywheel in. Since then the car has never driven right, feels like the tires are really out of balance.
Recently I took the car to the place I got the trans from and they told me the motor mounts were not aligned right, the subframe was bent, the bushings in the control arms were not in correctly, and some other small stuff. Ok, no biggie...? I fixed all this and still have this vibration that I never had before. The tech also told me the alignment was way out cause the car pulls hard left when you give it a good amount of gas. I had the car aligned the day before..
At this point I had replaced:
Ball joints
Wheel bearings
Clutch, flywheel
Trans
Left axle
Strut bushing - usrt race
Now I am onto replacing the subframe and junk. Long story short here is my current list of repairs.
Trans
Clutch,flywheel
Both axles
3 different kinds of wheel bearings-*** are currently in.
Ball joints
Inner and outer tie rods
R32 Control arm bushings
Front rotors and pads
Caliper slid pin rubbers
Subframe and bushings
Coilovers- put konis on, took fks off
Pretty much I have replaced the whole front end. All repairs are done by the book, correct tq specs and replacing hardware when needed.
You're thinking tires cause I have yet to talk about them. I have two sets of wheels and tires. My aftermarkets are 18x8.5 and then I have the factory bbs. I feel the vibration with both sets, the aftermarket are slightly worse but the greater rotating weight with wheel and tire comb I believe is why they are worse. I have had the wheels balanced twice and the car aligned twice. I had the car at a very well known shop in md that works with vw yesterday and they where clueless on the issue. Said maybe wheels and tires but that did not add up cause they balanced out fine.
Nothing I have replaced has made the vibration better or worse. Can you install the flywheel 180 out? It was lined up and went in fine.. Clutch install went beautiful, trans install was normal. Whys the car still pull hard left after being aligned?
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My 2001 Prelude (not SH) develops a vibration felt throughout the car and particularly the steering wheel after several minutes of constant highway (60 - 75 MPH) speed travel. Thought it might be a brake caliper sticking, but the car does not pull left or right. After 7 or 8 minutes of vibration, it stops and the ride is smooth as glass.
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Even when the key is off this light is on. The rear defrosters are not getting hot, and when you turn the car on and use the defrosters the light will brighten. It happened to my car while it was sitting in the school parking lot.
The cause of this problem I assume is a short in the wires going from the c pillar to the hatch.
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I just put the rubber cover back on them and the light turned off. Insulation on some of the wires was cracked and falling off. I will fix the wires with either electrical tape or new wires depending on the condition when I am able to do further inspection
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I've got a 2004 Golf 2.0 GL.....and for some reason this morning out of the blue when I tried to start the car to go to work it fired right up....and then about 1-2 seconds later immediately dies. I tried several times to start it....but every time it fired right up, then dies in a second or two. I also noticed that I'm getting the Immobilizer light on the dash....I'm guessing this is the problem.
Why would I get this all of a sudden? Did something happen to the chip in my key? Could the sensor in the steering column by bad? I don't want to have to load this thing on a trailer and take it to the dealership. Why would this happen out of the blue??
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My 99 2.0 jetta tends to flash the temperature light on cold starts and when the cars running for a while and im not moving (traffic) the light flashes and starts to overheat. Whats the problem? The previous owner had changed the radiator begire i bought it but can it. I need a new radiator fan or is it my thermostat?
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After 11 VWs, I finally have one that I would love to drive over a cliff. My 2015 Golf TSI Sport is a miserable car for me. I have had it back to the dealer four times for the infamous "shimmy" and shift problem with the automatic transmission. It has the standard automatic. The transmission has no idea which gear to use, it shifts like a bowling ball in a barrel.
Clunks upshifting and downshifting. The other problem is the shimmy/wobble. I have it in spades. The car always feels like it is hitting small strips in the road with a constant vibration in the front. The dealer cannot find the problem even though VW is trying to figure it out. (I have a feeling this isn't the first time). It is the worst driving car I have ever owned. Would much rather drive my 04 GTI with 100,000 miles and worn tires.
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Lately I've been hearing a constant click from what seems to be my chains side of the motor. Tensioners and chains were said to be done around 123k. After I've been driving it for a few minutes I hear the click. I thought it was the trans/ throw out berrying but when i push the clutch in and have it in gear i can still hear the click. It is not rapid like a tensioner like a tick tick tick, its like tick......tick......tick, could this be my top end of my block not receiving enough oil? I have a cracked oil pan, doesn't leak that often but i feel as if that is the source of the problem. Also I feel as if i lose power once i hit about 4300-4400 RPMs could that be because of low oil pressure?
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So I recently swapped my 2.8l 12v vr6 for the same engine because mine blew up, everything went good and the car runs great but there is a faint kind of rattling sound coming from the top of my motor, when its idling it will be a constant faint rattle. It gets worse as i accelerate between 3 to 4.5 rpms but then stops making the noise when i really start cooking so Idk if I just can't hear it or what. I've tried looking it up but i can't seem to find a video that has the same problems as my car. My father told me it could be my rockers or valves and others have told me it could be my timing chain or guides. I would love to just take it to vw to get it diagnosed but I don't have the money. I will try and upload a video of the sound ....
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So I recently lower my car and my 3" exhaust started a constant rattle when I'm in the car. When I get out it stops. Been lowered for a week or so now and today was the first time that happened. I've read up and seen its pretty common when we go lower. Also some ways to possibly fix it.
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Temp is at 190, runs great, coolant levels are fine, everything seems fine but there's a constant stream of smoke coming from my dipstick tube. Oil isn't milky. 2.0 AZG. Tried searching but only found threads for 1.8t's. Headgasket was done recently.
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Finally got around to replacing my Thermostat because the DIY here made it look so much easier than removing the alternator and such. Did everything exactly as described and after assembling everything with the new t-stat and O-ring I am getting a constant leak from the housing. I tried removing everything and reassembling...all the bolts are tight. Plastic housing isn't cracked and seems to be in great shape. Everything lines up properly but coolant is just running out of the bottom of the housing. Am I missing some magical trick here?
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Checking fuses and relays due to flashing brake light.now the air bag light is on all the time and now the starter won't crank with the key. All dash lights come on as normal , and brand new battery. Good grounds and fuses.
Really frustrating because I have no Viacom or access to anyone who does. I am in elkin nc and closest dealer is 50 miles away!!! Tried clearing the cry by pulling the cables and touching them together then reconnect to battery after 2 minutes.
Pull the key and I can still turn the radio on. Disconnected battery for 2 hours and still no safe mode on radio. Kind of hoping that was why no crank , but no such luck.
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02 Hyundai Elantra I'm having issues with the lights for some reason or another when I turn the headlights on the blinker don't blink it stays on constant and when there off it blinks but it looks like the flashers are Going off but the left turn signal works with no issues. The dash lights blink to when the right turn signal is on.
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Just installed raxle on my driver side. All clicking sounds are fixed but I noticed if I take right turns sometimes you can hear a constant clunking sound coming from the driver side wheel. It doesn't happen all the time, you kinda have to turn and hit a certain angle of the steering wheel. Also, only happens when driving low, if I raise the car just a little bit its gone. Never had issues with my oem axle binding so Im not sure how exactly does the binding sound?
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Truck is a 2008 F150 5.4 4x4. I changed the spark plugs the other night for the second time. Everything went smoothly. Got the truck put back together and cranked it up afterwards to let it run. Truck ran great, but as the engine temp got up around 150 degrees, I started hearing a very loud ringing sound. I shut off the engine, double checked all connections, removed the belt to rule out accessory drive noise. No luck. The noise stays constant regardless of engine RPM, so I decided to drive it. I found the noise fades away under load, then returns as soon as I let off the throttle. I attached a GoPro to a cross member near the transmission after narrowing the noise down to the bell housing area.
Attached is a link to the video I made : 2008 F150 5.4 Noise - YouTube...
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After I could not figure why I was having the alarm light I drove the car to a mechanic, explained my sleepless nights and many hours of problem analysis, and then the mechanic took his code reader, connected to the OBD car port, made a few clicks, and charged me $45 and then sent me off. The alarm light has not been back since - it blinks as expected when I start the car.
On my further research I have found that VW airbag light will come on if you check airbag with your ghetto OBD code reader - exactly what I had read! It registers "high resistance", and must be reset by someone with a qualified code reader!
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I have 2001 Wolfsberg Edition 4D jetta (gas) with 180,000 miles, manual transmission. The engine light has been on for years and years. Usually what I do is take it in for an oil change just before a smog. They re-set the codes. I drive it to my office and back and the light would stay off and I could smog it. Until recently. In April, I took the car in for an oil change. And when I picked it up, it ran terribly. It was lurching like crazy. I had to keep slip the clutch to drive it until it warmed up and the it would mostly start running OK. I took it back to my mechanic and he thought it was a timing belt. I had already changed the timing belt at 119,000 miles.
It seemed odd to me that this procedure needed to be done again after 60,000 miles, but I went ahead and had it done. That did not fix the problem. Then the mechanic replaced the air mass meter. That didn't work. Then he replaced the coils. That didn't work. My mechanic has had the car for a month and can't seem to figure out what to do. He keeps getting different error codes - codes that don't seem to make sense to him. The car needs to a smog (my registration date is June), but he can't smog it because we can't get the check engine light to stay off long enough.
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My issues: when I'm on gear 1 for example, on hot days, and only on hot days ( 25 deg.c and more) when I put it on neutral it suppose to go at "home" position ( i think this is how you guys call it, like align with the 3rd gear) But it stays align the the first.
Same with all the gears. It's stays aligned with the gear I just left.
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Electrical issue that I have been unable to resolve following other threads on here. Door ajar (to turn off radio and turn on interior lights) not functioning. My son has to lock the driver door from the outside when exiting to turn off radio. Alarm does sound and red light starts flashing indicating that part is functioning. Same thing when entering vehicle, the interior lights do not come on when opening the door. All other window switches and door locks function from driver door panel, except right rear door lock does not, he has to unlock by using the interior handle. Last one but unsure if related is the anti-slip (ASR) dummy light stays on in the instrument cluster, and doesn't change when pushing the button. I have gone through the driver door switch, cleaned/lubed/etc, but no luck. If it's a ground issue, where should I concentrate our efforts?
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